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M24 Prototype up for grabs


ill pointy out with this 'prototype' - that the stock isnt era correct with the action. Its possible the action was used on a prototype but the stock certainly was not. The stock lacks the flat spot for the bolt, and doesnt have the C prefix era crosshatch pattern buttpad - it has the later G prefix thicker buttpad.
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Reactions: shlouf and JTM20

Airguns Beating Rimfires

PRS rimfire will change their mind once ammo has gotten so expensive to enough people that attendance has dropped significantly.

Only a matter of time until that happens, heck it's partially why I stopped, and definitely why I didn't buy another case of lot tested Polar Biathlon.

Logical choice at that point is pcp and by then I bet they'll be even better than now.

PortaJohn

A guy just wanted to have dinner with his wife.. and this bitch shows up

Drunk woman who sexually assaulted man at upscale restaurant as he celebrated getting a cancer all-clear with his wife is spared jail​

She then sat on the man's lap and told him: 'I want to sit on your big bamboo.'
Outraged by Ms Williamson's brazen behaviour, the shocked diner immediately pushed her off before his wife told her to 'f*** off'.
The blonde mother-of-two, believed to be unemployed, then swiped the drinks and a candle off the table, causing them to spill over the victim's wife.
Furious at the rejection, she then spat at him and scratched him, drawing blood
View attachment 8755346
Is this still available?

Cleaning the leade area only per Lilja instructions question

My guess is to follow their directions, you'd have to use a cleaning loop because a jag would allow patch to fall off correct? Their instructions are,
(We suggest cleaning in the following manner. After approximately 100 rounds push a dry loose patch through the barrel from the breach end. This pushes out loose fouling. Then take a tighter dry patch and work it back and forth about 10 times in the leade area, pushing it out of the barrel at the muzzle end when finished. ) The patch would fall off of a jag using the back and forth motion. They don't say to use a loop but, seems the only way I know of, to keep the patch in place. Pushing dry loose patch out muzzle could be done using a jag for the first step. Also, are these jags worth it to prevent false positives of copper fouling? If so I'll order one Thanks! (y)

AR-15 Barrel Advice

We typically spend more money on gas, match fees, and food for the trip to and from the range than the low price point barrels.

No reason to even entertain the idea of cheap barrels, unless you’re getting a deal on a factory blow-out/inventory clearance sale from reputable brands from periods of time in their history where they actually made a consistent, quality product.

The JP Cryogenic-treated barrels are known performers in accuracy and longevity for high volume close range/intermediate range matches.

A buddy of mine gave me what he thought was a burned-out JP 18” RLGS barrel with the thin profile under the handguard, radiators, and muzzle brake.

I built it into a nice AR and the thing still shot 1/2 MOA groups with 69gr SMK, and even bug-holed with 55gr .223 Rem. My buddy said he ran M855 through it by the case doing DM courses up at Lewis for the Striker Brigades back in the 2000s.

There are several JPs that had over 25,000 rounds though them that still held MOA, even with noticeable throat erosion to the naked eye.

If I was shooting 2-Gun in .223, JP would be an easy answer for me. With a can, I’d look at the 14.5” MLGS with maybe a RifleSpeed AGB and get the gun tuned. Those Thermal Dissipators actually work on the JP barrels when shooting high volume, and are a great combo to the overall system. You won’t see a difference between a high-end barrel and the JP with Thermal Dissipator fins shooting a few groups for accuracy/precision comparison, but you will see the JP retain its point of aim/point of impact better over long strings of fire.