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Zogbots brings in APC and murder man over tall grass bylaw

Id shoot him if he drew on me and or fired at me?

Seems like the grass is not the issue so much as shooting at or drawing on people who shoot back? If you draw on someone to intimidate, sometimes you get shot.

Seems pretty easy to me lol...

Maybe cops in nyc would have brought a social worker to take bullets and give him a cupcake?
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Ukraine war Bullshit.

scrambled f-16s in response to a drone attack? are they effective against swarms of drones in ukraine?

I would say they need to be outfitted with bird shot rounds.

Maybe an EMP round.

Going from G3 1-10 to HD5 2-10?

I’ve been shooting MOA from 5 to 1000 yards for 24 years. I can shoot MIL but I have two decades of DOPE saved and instantly accessible in my head. If the match is only out to 300 so yards this is a non issue , but if we start to push out I am slower with MILs as I have to think or God forbid, look at my dope card . When I shoot MIL I get to second guessing my hold over and it costs me time. Yes, I could train through it but why? I’m not shooting with a partner or calling shots for anyone.

A lot of love for this little Leupold scope. Still curious about what kind of sight picture and the amount of parallax error to expect with this scope. It’s quite a bit of money to be wrong.

Weight and size are not end all be all, but the rifle this is going on (next season) will be doing the 10k Legion Run and Gun in three weeks. 7.5-9 miles through woods, fields, ponds, barbed wire fences, slack lines, walls, probably Rescue Randy drags, creeks, etc. light and smaller are preferred for my 14.5s and this type of event.

Hadn’t looked at the ZCO yet. I had assumed MIL only, which makes sense these days….
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6mm vs 6.5mm, not quite beating a dead horse.

I’d like to thank you guys for opening up an entirely new can of worms lol. I’m starting to like the idea of 6mm creed running a little slower. I can always gas it up for UKD or a real windy day.

There’s not a ton of load data out there for reduced loads but what I’ve found is: Varget, it seems to be less prone to large SDs when case fill is low. Much slower burning powders such as H1000 can fill the case but will keep pressure and velocities low. Anyone have any more insight?

I’m using CTR mags currently and my chasis doesn’t have the option running a different mag. I know I’d have to do some custom work in order to get 6gt to feed reliably. The CTR mags for 308/6.5/260 are supposed to work for 243 as well so 6mm creedmoor should cycle with minor work or not altering of the mags. That’s a big plus.

You shouldn’t have to modify anything with the 6 Creedmoor if it works with those others.

N160 works well with the 6 Creedmoor and downloading it. It’s what I use with my 110 ATip load as I wanted to keep my H4350 for my 6.5 and the 153s. H4350 would be a good choice with the 6 too. I wouldn’t go any faster for powder.

Going from G3 1-10 to HD5 2-10?

How high up on the list of priorities is size? The Mk5 is small, but not light for its size. Its compactness is also the source of the downsides. You can't change physics and the small exit pupil demands the tax be paid, BUT it beats the pants off of any LPVO I've shot with and all it costs you is the 1x.

I'm far from being a Leupold fan boy, but I bought a Mark 4HD 2.5-10x while drunk shopping one night. Eurooptic was running a deal on the tax and it made sense at the time. Man, that Mk4 is a dang nice scope and it sparked my interest in the Mk5.

I've had the opportunity to get behind a few and get out to 600 with them. I just kind of set the parallax to 300 and used that to shoot from 200 to 600 back and forth on steel using the reticle. If I was dialing, I may have taken the extra second to spin the parallax dial as well.

I hang out with a bunch of guys who are varying degrees of insane when it comes to spending money on gun stuff, so I get to check out a bunch of different optics. The Mark 5 as a package is impressive and I don't think it could be a wrong choice.

I only question going MOA. If speed is the name of the game, mils is the way to go and it seems that Leupold finally put a decent reticle in the 2-10x with the CMR.

Honestly, when you get to that price range, I think its gonna come down to preferences. I know my next optic purchase is going to be a 2-10 Mk5. I just need to be able to justify it to myself. I just haven't been behind my Mk4 and wished it was a Mk5 yet. Eh, maybe the next time I'm drunk shopping and someone is running a deal.
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Criterion 223 Remington match chamber

No freebore is way to long. I spent all kinds of time with that bullshit chamber. If you are single loading 90 grain bullets its ok but thats about it
You didn’t like their match chamber? I’ve been playing around with it and it’s been pretty good to me thus far but then again I’m running stuff in the 2.46-2.48 range.

I will say one barrel didn’t like the 75 ELD-M’s but loved the 73 OTM in GMM, that one’s currently headed back for a little checkup. Now the other barrel I’m running seems to enjoy pretty much everything I’ve feed it thus far in the process.
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So I'm seeing more and more short 308s in my neck of the woods seems odd

Man, everybody getting all wound up over someone else’s opinion…feel like I’m back in the Bear Pit! LoL

Use case drives it for me… 16” pencil barrel gets me the “minute of pig” accuracy at 250 yards or less that I need, while also making it much lighter and more handy while pushing through the thick scrub cedar brush that passes for forrest land around here.

I haven’t taken an actual shot on game past 200 yards or so in years.
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510 Whisper Build Advice (Stock/Bottom Metal/Magazines/Twist/Barrel Length)

I had the same thought about forming the shoulder and cutting the ID, good to know it's most likely going to be even more trouble.

I'm just starting this journey. Don't even have a rifle yet but plan to get an MRAD barrel made soon. I'm not a machinist so I'm still trying to dial in the neck turning process. Couple questions if you don't mind...

A regular 50 cal mandrel was a no go, at least with my brass. I was going to make a mandrel that's tight on my brass (~.520") in the neck area and tapers down so it can bottom out on the bottom of the charge cavity for consistent positioning. Is this what you do?

Do you grind a tool to hit the shoulder angle? I was thinking about trying a 43 degree KM cutter and just finishing it with the die.

I'm trying to do these at least a few hundred at a crack on a manual lathe, is there a trick to getting parts in and out of the lathe quickly? With a mandrel in the chuck and a center in the tail stock its pretty time consuming to move the tail stock out of the way and yank the tightly fit work piece off the mandrel.

I made a quick sketch of the case off the PTG reamer, not completely sure on the specs but I couldn't find anything and wanted something to go off of.

510W drawing.jpg