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More fun with 308 Win

I have been doing more testing and toying with 308.

I have been using Alpha small rifle primer brass and CCI 450 small rifle magnum primers.

Rifleis a Zermatt Origin with 20" PVA M24 profile 1:10 twist.

MDT ACC Chassis.

My goal was 3000ft lbs of energy at the muzzle. This was due to a conversation I had with a buddy who just came back from a Safari. The company had a 3000ft lbs, at the muzzle, requirement for any rifle used for plains game. He took a 300wsm.

Powders were Varget and Power Pro 2000mr.

These loads are above book max but showed no pressure signs. I annealed every other firing. I worked the book pressure loads up using annealed starline srp brass.

I forgot to get pictures of the varget loads.

#1- Averaged 2605fps and .30" 5 shot group (No pressure Signs)

#2- Averaged 2614fps and .65" 5 shot group (No Pressure Signs)

#3- Averaged 2627fps and .88" 5 shot group (Very faint ejector mark)

#4- Averaged 2635fps and .55" 5 shot group (Again faint ejector mark, easy bolt lift)

#5- Averaged 2644fps and .23" 5 shot group (Ejector mark and at the very top of the bolt lift it was mildly sticky at the very top)

Power Pro 2000mr was a little lacking in the velocity dept.

My max load of 46.6 grains topped out at 2635 but should have been faster. My thought is that I am not getting complete powder burn. I found some partially burnt kernals in the barrel
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The 46 grain load was absurdly accurate and had an average velocity of 2615.

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My 1moa sticker fell off the hole it was covering so I just shot at the hole.
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Mk 13 Mod 0 stock

Man that Allen head for the BDL bottom metal is ugly. I might just use factory instead.
Well, in addition to Navy SEAL rifles made at Crane since the 1980s-90s, make sure you never look at the bottom metal bolts on USMC sniper rifles made at Quantico, VA since about 1978 - all those “ugly” action bolts might offend…
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…maybe this old 1981 article on the above USMC sniper rifles explains why this has been done for 40 plus years on precision military sniper rifles:
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….but if you like the hunting rifle look with the factory recessed bolts, that’s your choice. I’m choosing the military bolts to go with my pricey military stocks. To each their own of course…

Rifle Scopes New S&B 10-60x

Did they attach that pic (first quote)? Because that’s the thing I drew arrows on lol.

Maybe half-clicks don’t have a hash?
Your pic...but thats the same pic Thomas sent me..

Yeah...myself and Distributor are guessing that the half clicks don't have a visual mark as you suggest..

If so...its a strange setup ??
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WHERE NO MAN HAS GONE BEFORE

proper functioning suspension,brakes,trany (manual available? LOL)mirrors and seat belts. what else do you need for "safety"?
oil pressure,alternator,engine temp,speedometer,odometer (trip if available),tach-what else do you need for "monitoring"? tire pressure gauges are cheap. dip sticks work if you could get to them.
a bunch of sensors,lights,cameras,push button controls,seat heaters that are expensive to fix and almost have to go for the usual dealer rip off?
cruise and heat and AC are good but have been around for decades. mileage is better these days but injection and carbs were never really pushed where they could prob have gone in efficiency. oil companies & auto makers didn't care about mileage til Japs got into the market in 70s and the embargo hit in '73.

Interesting take on Crazy in the US

No doubt they are safer, but given all the differences and draw backs between modern & old, many are reverting. You can't buy a work truck w/o it being full on Gucci, which is just a huge piggy bank for the mgf's. There is a reason working people want mats & vinyl, standard transmissions an such. Interesting you can get a truck the way you what it most anywhere over seas, but here you can't. In 1973 I went to buy a new One Ton Chevy, but could not get the items on it I wanted w/o extra shit I did not what. The sales guy said the public will buy what we sell & like it, I said OK Fuck you. Walked across the street and bought my first F-350 ford C&C the way I wanted it. Now Ford is like all the rest, the reason most are saying Fuck you again, I'll spend my money getting a frame off and not have to put up with all the extra B/S your stuffing, in that junk these days.
Like many I'll spend $30-35 grand on a 1973 F 350 long before I'll spend $75-90 on anything new. Plus the tags & ins is much much cheaper. Will it get the fuel mileage nope but you can fix it with wire & bubble gum to get home if you have to. Vs a $15 -100 sensor, 500 buck shop charge and a 3-500 buck tow bill.
I agree with a lot of that, unfortunately it wont work for the average Joe. I drive a 2002 Chevy Express 3500. 280000 trouble free miles but I'm retired. If I had to use it every day I'd likely bite the bullet and get something newer. I always drove a 1 ton over a pick up, same milage, only 2 more tires, and many times the carrying capicity.

But in my every day drive I'll take that safety and milage.

Firearms WTS/WTT Tikka .204 for 6.5 Creedmoor (or similar)

I have a low round count (<100) blued Tikka T3 Sporter .204, 20” threaded by LRI. (Can include Area419 adapter.) I would like to trade the barreled action for a 6.5 Creedmoor, maybe another elk capable caliber. Can add cash on my end if yours has aftermarket barrel, etc.

Also have 5 x50rd boxes 32gr ammo I could sell. Comes with 1 mag, have 3 extra if interested.

Varmint stock in pic not for sale.

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