Real deal USMC M40A1s that were pulled out of the PWS arms room for a match at Quantico back in 2016. Only the tan one in last picture is part of my collection (built at PWS years ago).

flogxal said:

I remember hearing in some interview/podcast that the button draw deformation is most significant in slimmer profiled barrels. So a well controlled button in a heavy contour, you see the results yourself. If that thing I heard is true.

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I am sure it goes back to the heat treating also as I am sure they don’t button the barrels at those slim contours but turn them down after. If they didn’t do the heat treating right then you would have issues especially when heating up during shooting.

Gunfighter14e2 said:

Safety is a thing but mileage is a fallacy vs life cycle cost. Run the numbers and you will find the ins & tag off set alone will most of the time negate the fuel costs depending, A/O & total mileage at life cycle end.

You have been very lucky but then again I doubt you use that truck to spec every day, like most people do w/ work trucks. We had a huge fleet of trucks, 33.3% Chevy, 33.3% Ford, & 33.3% Dodge, The Chevy's had to have a off road wrecker on stand by if you got off the pavement & the transmissions no matter gas or diesel where pure junk, The Fords were in the shop all the time with engine issues, The Dodges ate brakes at 30K the front ends were junk at 50K miles and shit like mirrors & trim fell off going down the road all the time. Now the people that never used them to spec mostly never encounter work truck issues, but when you pay 75 grand for a truck before you stock it and someone warming the seat, you don't need that shit OOS all the time.

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It was a work truck for 150 K. The main thing is lubrication and maintainence. At the first oil change I went with Amsoil in the engine, transmission and rear end. Change the oil religously at 10K with a grease job. Do that and the other maint. and maost any will last like that. My first new vehicle was a 87 Toyota wit the 22 R engine. Drove that 375K and it started everytime I turned the key. Maintainence. is key. I see others that buy anew one and run t into the ground in 100K by not doing the maint.

Any opinions on the GPO 1.5-9x32?

MarshallDodge said:

So, are saying they weren't straight?

(angels)

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They almost never went straight down the track.

168BTHPM said:

It was also fun to watch the Hells Angles run their nitro Harleys.

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So, are saying they weren't straight?

(angels)

AznTactical said:

Ouch $275? Gonna pass on this one.

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Same. I was expecting it to not be this high.

roostercogburn98 said:

Yeah you can. My 2500 is bare bones, manual vinyl seats, no carpet, manual 4wd shift on the floor, column gear shifter, rinky dink 4 inch display with an aux cord input. Just about everything is manual or analog with the exception of the info pages in the cluster which are controlled by the toggles on steering wheel.

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Helps if you find a commercial dealer who specializes in fleet vehicles or lots of trucks. Your average dealer is into pushing the Gucci.

This is what you want: https://www.eurooptic.com/swarovski-z6i-17-10x42-bt-4a-i-matte-black-69237-new

Update:
Installed JP LMOS bcg. Full gas, instant lock back. (18 clicks.) tuned it down to about 6 clicks, got bolt action. Got lock back around 8 or 9, Then settled around 12 clicks to try it out. Got lock back on 5 1-rd mags, then shot a full mag of bill drills and got lock back. Plan to do a full practice session this weekend.

Ejection is almost exactly at 3 o clock. Do I need to put the weight back in the h1 buffer that I took out? I’m still running standard spring

btt

I have been chasing an intermittent short in the electric brakes on one of my trailers. Sometimes it’s fine, sometimes it shows a “SH” code on the controller and brakes don’t actuate.

3 days I have been looking for it. I fixed several other little things I found but still had the problem. Started inside the drums. Measured the resistance in the magnets, was fine. Went ahead and packed all 4 bearings while I was in there. Adjusted shoes. Repaired a few places in the wiring I found that I knew wasn’t the problem but for posterity I fixed them.

Found the 7blade connector was a little corroded inside with some rust chunks rattling around in it. Maybe the rust was shorting the brake power, I mean it is on the bottom. Nope

Finally, I decided to just replace the blue brake wire front to back.

It runs down the driver side and then through the axle to the passenger side. Yep, I found it. Mid way through the axle the wire was melted through and just enough to short intermittently.

Who would think a wire riding in a steel tube protected from anything would short…. I guess when the trailer was manufactured, the wire was probably damaged pulling it through the axle and it took 20 years to finally arc through


Rules…

The grandson got the idea (from me ) that real country boys get mud on their bare feet periodically. Wife wasn’t amused.

gopherslayer said:

They didn’t do this when they got off the boat in America.

Just sayin’

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All military age males shouting Aloha Snackbar… What could possibly go wrong?