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So y’all remember I was “turning up” my 12v cummins a few weeks ago. I took the AFC off several times experimenting with it. The following is considered mild in that world but my results were pretty incredible.

What I ended up with:

#11 fuel plate, slid full forward. Fuel plate only is in play at full throttle and after boost is up fairly high. #11 is a safe plate, safer than factory slid forward … but still allows more fuel and boost up until the peak where it will sign off instead of sending EGT through the roof like a stock or a more aggressive plate like a #10 or zero.

Boost elbow to slow the wastegate opening. Don’t just block it, it needs to slowly open at high boost to keep your turbo from melting 😉

AFC housing slid full forward. The main reason to slide the plate and the AFC full forward is because if you pull any of it back off, you have a reference and don’t have to start over with the fine settings.

I removed 1/8” from AFC arm barrel and removed the lip from the washer on the bellows. This allows full rack travel.

I found the stock spring is too short to control low boost if the star wheel is forward enough to make mid range torque. The spring being too short doesn’t allow the low boost control you need for fast spooling. So if you do any of this, don’t even start until you buy a longer aftermarket spring or plan to stretch yours.

Experimented with the “smoke screw” to get low boost fuel right and have a quick spool up. You have to sneak up on this by 1/8 turns but the result is awesome when you hit it.

Governor springs. Stock, the pump de-fuels starting around 2000 rpm. What this does is if you're towing, getting up to speed on a ramp, the truck falls on its face if you hold a lower gear. If you shift up there may not be enough torque to accelerate. Replace springs with 3k or 4k springs to allow the truck to make power above 2400 RPM. I used 4k because it is an auto and It would never rev that high unless I held it in gear. Valve springs are mandatory for 4k springs in a manual.

Working on this has been fun. It is amazing this fully mechanical system is so sophisticated yet simple to work on. The “P” pump is a marvel.

My truck absolutely leaps now at any RPM or boost. Smoke is minimal and only even visible at no boost heavy throttle and only a couple of seconds, more like a haze than smoke….I hate heavy smoking diesel retards.

No electronic controls yet just pulled a hand calculated 22.87 MPG …. part of which was going over Black Mountain on I40 is pretty damn incredible.

Anyway, here is a cool pic of the “brain” of a 94-98 12v, a genius brain at that.

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Maggie’s Funny & awesome pics, vids and memes thread (work safe, no nudity)


This one should be interesting to watch if it is a comet…. Going to be close and fast and could grow a big tail!

Found by an amateur Astronomer.

We are on a cosmic billiard table… and the cue balls strike without warning!

Cheers!

Now THIS is FUNNY!!!!

Maybe I can get a scrip to help ease my suffering. Seems to be the rage these days
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May cause a bleedin’ ‘eart, desire to eat a bullet, continuous bloviating, inability to accept others’ opinions, compulsive denigration of others, messiah complex, piss in your cereal or anal bleeding upon dismount.

Ask your doctor about Fuckitol today.

Recommendations on Remington 700 based actions?

Aero SOLUS is a good option as well (I have Zermatt actions too, just offering another option). I got my first one just to try because of the price. Put a 6CM Proof on it and it shot great. Later I stumbled on one here when I decided I wanted to build a dasher/br/gt. It was the later version with the fluted bolt. It popped up for a great price so I bought it and called Ray at Zermatt and switched my order from another origin to a rim x.

The reason I bring it up, I put another proof barrel in 6 dasher on the second origin action. It shot lights out, never had an issue with it. One in a KRG bravo with all the weights you can get, the other in a MDT ACC premier. Identical LOP. Well I swapped glass on both the 6mm last week. Both scopes in Warne Skyline Pro mounts. The POI movement from on rifle to another was .1mil low going to the dasher, .1 high going to the CM. That literally could be the difference in the velocities I load them at as I run my dasher pretty slow. Zero windage shift.

In my opinion, you can’t beat tolerances like that. If you can find one of them sitting on GB or red hawk or somewhere, that action is worth every penny.
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What Could Cause Brass to get “stuck” on the bolt/extractor when manually cycling the action on 6 arc gas gun?

Without looking or feeling the extractor edges, my money would be on Cascade Hemi's reply.

I will always polish the "teeth" to make sure they are smooth. I have seen them pretty sharp. A cratex wheels, and about 2 minutes including looking at the finished product under a magnifying lamp, and those gorges on case rims just about disappear. Everyone has their own opinion on extractor springs, but that donut gets chunked in the trash on mine.
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