Shot maybe 20 times, it shoots good , 3/4 inch group with hornady white tails , just don’t use as much.

Looking for 1200$ shipped bare, or 1500$ shipped with optic and rings and level , ammo etc.

If you aren’t familiar with this cartridge look up Brian and do a little reading, i love it, i just have too much stuff laying around i don’t use. Will send groupings and chronograph readings to serious buyer. (3200+ fps on 62 Barnes).

This is a aero anodized clear setup with 14.5 barrel, adjustable gas block, arca rail, high pressure TC bolt triggertech Diamond , hydraulic buffer system etc etc. gun has a blemish or two from riding in my defender. It runs flawless and shoots flat while hitting hard. Have ammo for it as well. I think it goes without saying, No Can lol.

Looking for around 1600$ shipped. I’m an ffl so it will come from me to yours.

So a felon is driving to surrounding states and buying pistols from other criminals.

They drive back home to resell the guns to other felons / gang members.


Will the Feds ever stop doing deals and not really punishing criminals?

Is this prison time acceptable?

Should he be held as an accomplice/ aiding and abetting all the crimes the gangs committed with the guns as he knew he was selling to prohibited people?

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In the wake of the SIG P320 drama, there's been a whole bunch of these types of videos online.

Way too many.

Looking at what he's doing...



...loading the trigger on this particular Glock with a fastener does the following:



1. Negates the Trigger Safety (dingus)
2. Negates the Firing Pin Block
3. Negates the Drop Safety

What is the point of this maneuver, though?

In a loaded / cocked Glock with the finger off the trigger, safeties 1. through 3b. are doing their thing.

When "riding the reset," you negate 1. and 2., but safeties 3a. and 3b. perform their functions (well, if you’re really good at “riding the reset,” maybe only 3b.).

When tensing the trigger with that fastener, you're leaving the sear 3b. hanging by the skin of its teeth, something hard to do with your finger in practice because of that final “10% hump” (see subsequent posts below).

What exactly are these Glock videos trying to prove?

I’ve got a GA Precision Crusader chambered in 308 I’m looking to trade for a Rolex Sub or GMT. Has the Templar action and will come with. Kahles g1 6-24 with AMR reticle,20 moa Spuhr mount, Atlas bipod and Pelican case cut for gun. Can also come with the Thunder Beast Ultra 7CB. Gun has no more the 300 rounds through it. Have only shot Blacks Hills through it. I can get more pictures upon request. Located in NW Arkansas. Cheers.

After many email requests I thought I'd repost the research I did on barrel break-in procedures. In addition I also added a short overview on Internal Ballistics 101 to help tie everything together.

This has been posted on many shooting boards over the years and has been modified as I uncover more information. This is a quick synopsis of my finding which has been generalized. I had lots of test results and data I looked through. It’s also not based on the opinions and hearsay. I set out to take an objective look of barrel break-in procedures. I wanted to find out if there was any hard fact evidence to support barrel break-in procedures or was it a waste of time. In the end all of the data I collected supported the fact that barrel break-in procedures are a waist of time and in some cases damages barrels. To research this project I spoke with a few metallurgists, originally three of our top barrel makers (Shilen, Hart and Rock) and have since talked with a handful of others including Bartlein and Broughton. I also talked with a few internal ballistic engineers and some our nation’s best gunsmiths.

A little back ground on myself. I have degrees in Engineering and Business Adminstration. I’m a data network engineer in real life. I’m an avid long range shooter and due to my knees gave up tactical competitions about 6 years ago. One of my hobbies is external ballistics and I enjoy reverse engineering new ballistic programs to see what ballistic models, mathematical calculations, formulas and algorithms the creator used. I have a pretty good knowledge on ballistics and long range shooting. By no means am I an expert, when I'm in doubt I talk with Bryan Litz. I have spent more time than I care to admit to trying to uncover the science behind the scene. With regards to this write up, I feel I've done a fairly good job with my research and conclusions. Though some may disagree with my finding which is fine.

Before blasting away at what I've written, offer insight supported by facts and test data and not hearsay or opinions. This is what I’ve tried to do. It’s ok to disagree as the more information we can get the better informed we are. Also remember my conclusions were the collective data from some of the best minds and subject matter experts in the business.

Back in the 2001/2 time frame I trashed a brand new Shilen stainless steel match barrel in under 400 rounds shooting moly coated bullets. Yes this was during the moly bullet craze and I jumped on the band wagon. Let’s just say I was not a happy camper. I live local to Shilen so after a few hand lapping jobs on the barrel which failed, Doug Shilen cut the throat section to see what was really wrong. The throat area showed the black moly ring of death which was so hard Doug could barely scrape it with the side of a flat head screwdriver. Let’s just say I’ll never shoot another moly coated bullet....ever!

After my new Shilen barrel was installed I set out to on a mission to understand this barrel break-in process and if I really needed it. After all this research my conclusion supported the fact that barrel break-in is a waist of time and effort.

Let’s talk barrel break-in shall we: I believe Kelly McMillan of McMillan rifles said it best, “This barrel break-in processes keeps us in business”. “This shoot and clean, shoot and clean every round or few rounds break-in process only damages your new match barrel and/or significantly decreases the barrel life”. Though I didn’t speak with Kelly on this subject I’ve read what he’s written and it mirrors my own findings.

Some barrel manufactures have now re-clarified their stance saying that a barrel break-in procedures helps to smooth the transition from the newly cut chamber into the throat area of the bore. Now there is some merit to statement except for the fact a cotton patch with bore solvent or bronze brush isn’t going to do squat to help remove any rough areas. Bullets passing down the barrel will help smooth the chamber/throat area. It may take just a couple of shots or it could take a lot, but it depends on how well the chamber/throat was cut and polished. Last I checked stainless steel and chrome moly steel is much harder than a cotton patch or bronze brush.

Speedy Gonzalez (Hall of fame bench rest shooter and one of the nation’s top gunsmiths) was a wealth of information as were the techs at Hart barrels. As Speedy says, “my $3000.00 video-bore scope doesn’t lie”. I've looked through lots of barrels at Speedy's shop while he was working here in North Texas. Looking through his bore scope I learned a lot and saw a lot of good the bad and the ugly when it comes to barrel and barrel maintenance. Speedy's video bore scope never lied. When looking through his video bore scope at the internal surfaces of trashed barrels, one thing we did see a lot of were cleaning rod marks. The cleaning rod marks showed too much cleaning with poor and improper cleaning techniques and equipment. This was also noted by the techs at Hart Barrels with regards to barrels they replaced.

There are probably less than a dozen individuals in the US that understand internal and external ballistic as well as Stan Rivenbark and Mike Rock. Stan is retired ballistic engineer from Raytheon Corporation and Mike Rock of Rock Creek Barrels. They both understood this whole internal ballistic equation more than all the others I talked with. This is because they worked on internal ballistics in their real lives, used state of the art test equipment to perform actual tests and record the actual data. They are true subject matter experts and both of their views points and explanations were very similar. A slight twist here and there and different approach but there test data and conclusion were the same. A lot of folks claim to understand all or part of the internal ballistic equation, but these people had the hard data to back up there statements and claims. I like solid test data and not opinions on what someone believes.

As I stated Stan and Mike Rock gave me some of the most detailed explanations on barrels and internal ballistics. Both were ballistic engineers and both have degrees in metallurgy (Stan has an masters in metallurgy); Mike was a ballistics engineer for the US Army for many years at the Aberdeen Proving grounds. When Mike worked at Aberdeen, the US Army used high speed bore videos with mirrors, thermal imaging and computers to analyze any and everything that happens when the firing pin strikes the primer and the round goes off. While working as a ballistic engineer for Raytheon Stan used similar equipment and processes to view and record internal ballistics though most of his work was focued around the .50 cal.

Before we begin take a step back and be objective. Ask yourself what you are trying to really accomplish by breaking in your barrel. What issues and/or problems inside the barrel need to be corrected or fixed? Now I do recommend cleaning your rifle after you purchase it to clean out all of the junk, oils and grease from the factory before shooting it, but also realize...

• The vast majority (99%) of shooters don’t own or have access to a quality bore scope to view the interior surface of their barrels.
• Without a bore scope to view the interior surface of your barrel what exactly are you trying to fix by a shoot and clean process?
• If there are burrs or machine marks from the machining process are they in the chamber, throat or barrel where are they located?
• Do the machine marks run parallel or perpendicular to the barrel finish?
• If there are high points and low points inside the barrel again where are they located?
• Does shooting and cleaning between rounds correct/fix all barrel imperfections if they exist? If yes how?
• Do you think cleaning between rounds is going to change the molecular structure of the steel or condition it in some fashion? If so, I’m/we’re all ears
• Without a bore scope again you have no idea what the actual condition of the interior barrel surface
• So far if you don’t have honest solid answers to these first few questions and you’ve been performing a barrel break-in process you’re working off a SWAG (scientific wild *** guess)
• Even if you have a bore scope can you truly identify a change in burrs or machine marks from a before or after cleaning. If so please provide detailed photograph’s

Couple more questions while I still have your attention.

• Pushing a cotton patch with solvent or a bronze brush down the barrel will do what to remove a 416 stainless steel or chromemoly metal burr or machine marks?
• Last time I checked, 416 SS or CM is much harder than a cotton patch or bronze brush and is most likely impenetrable by most bore solvents.
• Yes it will remove copper fouling caught by the metal burr, but how will it remove the metal burr?
• How many shots will it take to remove the burr or imperfection and how will you know when the barrel issues have been corrected? Is it always x-amount of shots?

Let's take a few minutes to gain a basic understanding of internal ballistics and what really happens when you pull the trigger. This will also help you to understand why you don't want to clean after every shot.

High level view of Internal Ballistics 101:

When the firing pin strikes the primer, the propellants in the primer ignites. With this initial ignition there may or may not be enough pressure to dislodge the bullet from the case (this depends on neck tension and seating depth as well as a few other variables), if there is enough pressure to dislodge the bullet, it moves forward into the lands where it stops. As the primer ignites the powder, more pressure builds moving the bullet forward where it can stop again. Once there is enough pressure from the round going off, the bullet is moved down and out the barrel. All of this happens in nanoseconds (billionths of a second). Your bullet starts and stops as many as two times before it leaves the barrel. This is fact. Bet you didn’t know that…….neither did I!

Internal Ballistics on the brass case:

As the primer ignites the powder, pressure begins to fill the brass case. As the pressure builds the case expands to completely fill the chamber sealing off the chamber and preventing any gases from leaking around it. The pressure will also cause the brass case to move rearward pushing it flush against the bolt face. In addition the shoulder and neck area of the case will be force forward into the shoulder and neck area of the chamber. All of this pressure will have elongated and lengthen the total size and diameter of the brass case. As the bullet is moved down and out the barrel, the chamber and barrel pressure drops. The brass begins to cool and contract allowing the brass to be extracted from the chamber.

Internal Ballistics on the bullet:

As the bullet is forced from the case, it can only support a small amount of force. The force on the base of the bullet will cause it to expand. As more force is applied the bullet expansion will increase from the base of the bullet towards the bullet nose. Basically the bullet begins to stretch. In addition the bullet enters the lands and grooves of the barrel. The bullet will engrave itself to the lands and grooves as it proceeds through the barrel. The throat of the barrel takes on the majority of stress from the heat and pressure created from the firing of the round. This is why the throat area of the barrel is always the first point of barrel deterioration. Depending on the round being fired the flash point of the round going off can cause instantaneous burst in temperature upwards to 4000 degrees Fahrenheit and create a pressure spike upwards toward 60,000 PSI’s.

Why thorough cleaning between rounds is not good for a barrel:

Think of a car engine for a moment. Why do we use oil in the engine? To prevent any metal-to-metal contact as well as reduce friction between two metal (bearing) surfaces. Your barrel is no different from the engine. If you clean every round or every few rounds during your barrel break-in process or clean your rifle so well after shooting that you take it down to the bare metal, you’ve created a metal-to-metal contact surface for the next time you shoot the gun. So what’s the problem with this you ask? Just like your car engine, metal-to-metal contact will cause friction which can sheer away layers of metal from each surface. So if your bullet is starting and stopping as many as two times before it leaves the barrel, that’s two places for metal-to-metal contact to happen as well as the rest of your bore. Even though copper is a gilding metal it can still sheer away barrel surface in the bore when traveling at high velocities under extreme heat and pressures.

Remember it is these copper jacketed bullets passing down the barrel at high pressure and velocity that will ultimantly be the source of smoothing out those rough marks left by the chambering tool and machining process. The more bullets passing down the barrel will help smooth the barrel not cleaning it between rounds.

Cleaning between rounds especially thorough cleanings can take you back down to bare metal which can actually harm your barrel. In addition all this cleaning, done improperly with cheap bore guides and cleaning rods can scratch and damage the interior surface of your barrel. This was very prevalent in the barrels we looked at through Speed’s video bore scope. To preserve your barrel you need to avoid cleaning down to bare metal. A light wash of copper fouling in the barrel is not always a bad thing, as the copper fills in a lot of the micro groves left by the machining process. You don’t want layers of copper which effect accuracy, but filling in the micro grooves can be a good thing.

So what do we need to really take care of our new rifle and/or barrel?

According to Mike Rock and the other barrel manufactures agreed, all you need to avoid this metal-to-metal contact is a good burnish in the barrel. Some barrel manufactures will void your barrel warranty if you shoot moly bullets. This is not to say that moly is necessarily bad for a barrel, but it can be when applied to bullets. Never shoot moly coated bullets as they are bad juju for the throat of a rifle.

There are numerous ways to achieve a good burnish in your barrel such as just shooting a long string of rounds without cleaning. I like Mike Rock’s method and have been using it on all my match grade and factory barrels.

When Mike re-barreled my tactical rifle with one of his 5R barrels, I talked with him about my new barrel, any barrel break-in process and how to get the best performance out of my new barrel. This is what he had to say. When he makes a new barrel, he hand laps the barrels with a lead lap. Most if not all custom barrel makers hand lap their barrels. Mike takes his barrels a step further to provide a pre-burnished finish. He uses two products from Sentry Solutions. One product is called Smooth Coat, which is an alcohol and moly based product. He applies wet patches of Smooth Coat until the bore is good and saturated and lets it sit until the alcohol evaporates. The barrel now has loose moly in it. Next he uses a second product for Sentry Solutions product called BP-2000, which is a very fine moly powder. Applied to a patch wrapped around a bore brush, he makes a hundred passes through the barrel very rapidly before having to rest. He repeats this process with fresh patches containing the moly powder a few more times. What he is doing is burnishing the barrel surface with moly and filling in any fine micro lines left by the hand lapping. He then uses a couple of clean patches to knock out any remaining moly left in the bore. He also included a bottle of each product when he shipped my rifle back which is what I’ve been using on all my other rifles.

With the barrel burnished with moly, this will prevent any metal-to-metal contact during the barrel break in process. My instructions for barrel break-in were quite simple. Shoot 20 rounds (non-moly bullets) with no cleaning, as this will further burnish the barrel. Done! Now shoot and clean using your regular regiment of cleaning and if you have to use JB’s or flitz type products, go very easy with them as they can clean the interior barrel surface back down to bare metal removing your burnish. Never clean so well you clean back down to bare metal surface.

He said most of the cleaning products do a great job, don’t be afraid to use a brush and go easy on the ammonia-based products for removing copper fouling. Basically don’t let the ammonia-based products remain in the barrel for long lengths of time.

What’s my cleaning regiment you might ask? I’m not one who puts his firearms up without cleaning them; it’s what I was taught growing up. I'm also not one who wants to spend a lot of time and effort cleaning so my process is pretty simple but highly effective. I use only a Lucas bore guide and Dewey cleaning rods, something I learned from Speedy. Most other bore guides will allow your cleaning rod to flex inside the barrel which can scratch the barrel surface...not a Lucas bore guide.

I clean my rifles using WipeOut Accelerator and WipeOut foam. I use a few patches soaked in WipeOut Accelerator just to push the bulk of the gunk out of the barrel and then give it a shot of Wipeout foam. Let sit for 3-hours or so and patch it out. If I know it will be a few weeks before I get to the range or lease I’ll run a single patch of kroil oil down the barrel followed by a couple of dry patches. The process is quick and simple and works well for me. I have one barrel on my sons Win Featherweight where we need use a nylon brush with a little JB’s to get most of the fouling out as it’s a stubborn factory barrel. I’m considering using Tubbs Final Finish on this barrel.

For badly fouling factory rifles, I know of quite a few folks who have used Tubbs Final Finish with very good to outstanding results. TFF are lapping compound impregnated bullets you shoot down your barrel which can really help smooth out and polish a factory barrel.

I’ve used my buddies bore scope quite a few times to see just how clean my process gets my rifles. My Bartlein and Rock barrels hardly ever foul so I rarely if ever see any copper fouling in those barrels. My DPMS and Tikka both show very light and faint traces of fouling here and there after cleaning. I figure that fouling is just filling in some of those micro grooves as well as I know I have a good burnish in the barrel and I don’t give it a second thought as they all shoot lights out!

I hope that helps folks to understand what I’m trying to say.

Price drop to $600 BARREL ONLY

AI AT-X or AT or AX
Bartlein Barrels: 6mm 7.5tw M24 contour
Manzella Precision: chambered for 6 Dasher 28" finished length Black cerakote
NEW never fired. Including 2 new HRD 6mm Mag Spacer Kit for AW or ATX magazines

Asking $950 Zelle or Venmo for payment. No PayPal

I thought about resurrecting the old thread, but it was getting pretty big. So lets get a new one going...

Post up pics of your bikes, rides, or what not. Also any mountain biking (or any cycling) related conversation is always welcome!

For sale is a GPO Tac 45 spotting scope in mils with a Vortex Impact 4000 mounted at 12 o’clock. Great little spotter and range finder setup. Both pieces come with original box and the remote for the Impact. $2500 shipped for the package deal!

Great condition Armageddon gear game changer bag, standard fill (7lb), in multicam.

I am clearing out my shooting bag collection, I have quite a few of these.

Asking $90

Steiner T6Xi 3-18x56 SCR2 Mil Reticle
Bought new; mounted on accurized AR-15; zeroed and that's basically it. Less than 100 rounds.
Includes: Sunshade Tenebrex scope caps, throw lever, battery, etc.
American Defense Manufacturing ADM Mount available via separate purchase.
Selling to fund other gear.

Selling a Vortex razor gen iii 1-10 lpvo. This black model was a midway exclusive when I purchased it earlier this year. Has the EBR9 mrad reticle. Comes in original box with all the usual accessories. It is mounted in a vortex 34mm 0 moa mount. Mount height is 1.54”. Asking $1700 shipped. Not looking for any trades or splitting mount from optic. Venmo only.

Bought new binos. Everything works great, no scratches. This model comes with AB. Great for PRS and hunting.

Greetings fellow shooters from Topstraps Rimfire Challenge here in Eastern Ohio. This month the match dates are August 8th (Friday), 9th (Saturday) and 10th (Sunday). You can come anytime thru the day and it takes about an hour to shoot thru. There is a covered firing line and there are two benches so sometimes there is a wait for your turn to shoot. You have 3 days to pick from (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) starting at 8AM till 5PM or so. It takes about 100 rounds to shoot and about an hour to finish which is on the high end. Open bolts and chamber flags are a must and no handling of guns once they are leaned into the rack. Donation will be $20.00/entry this year.

I still think that ammo is the main deciding factor and the best way to come up with some type of classes. I've seen incredible scores shot with 60 year old target guns and poor scores shot with $7500 custom rifles. This year I think I'm going to go to three (3) classes and the winner of each class will receive a free entry the next match. The twist will be if a lower class shooter wins their class with a higher score than the class winners above them then the higher winners won't get a free entry. Example: Class C winner shoots a 79 and the Class B winner shoots a 78 and the Class A winner shoots an 80. The class A and Class C winners receives a free entry but the Class B winner does not. An incentive to compete occasionally with lower cost ammo for the challenge and to do well.

The three (3) classes of ammo will be C: $6.00/50 and under, B: Over $6.01 to $14.00 and A: Over $14.01 This may change and I don't have a complete list made up which would be hard to list each ammo but will base this on prices normally found at the online shops and not a sale item. I've sure everyone knows about where their ammo falls, also anyone with a tuner may use it but will jump you into the A class automatically. No Benchrest style front or rear rests. Bipods (even Rempel style) sandbags or an attached monopod are OK. Any scope/rifle combo is allowed but if you show up with a BR style gun shooting in C class you may get a shifty eyed sideways glance wondering what's up with this.

I've played with most of them and Yes they most definately do have a much better group at farther distances. A Class B ammo could possible compete with them as long as their dropped round is not on a small target but that's the gamble you take with the mid-range priced ammo. The lowest class is for those that are starting out, can't find or haven't tested better ammo but still wish to compete which is why I do this in the first place. Don't feel you can't come have fun and be competitive, you'll be shooting with others with similiar equipment.

Nearly everyone that shoots with us will offer any help they can, most will gladly let you look at their gun, scope, bipod and bags and let you try them out. You don't have to have top end stuff to come shoot and have fun. Plenty of you have kidded me about some of the stuff Chris and I shoot. I'm also going to have the peep sight targets up at each distance which are 4moa which is about the smallest you can see in the varying light conditions. If a stage has gamble targets for the scoped competitors the peep targets will also have a very challenging gamble higher point value target they can shoot at. Keeps both scoped and metallic sight competitors on their toes. Yes they may look bigger a little farther out but up close they are smaller and only one so it gets shot up quickly. If you think it's easy let me know and I'll have a gun there for you to try. The Peep targets do get rough to see thru the mid-day due to light and shadows so keep that in mind. Early or late are better times for that.



[email protected]

Send an email for exact address for GPS, Near St. Clairsville Ohio

Dennis

I have a pair of Gray Ops MPA side rails in both steel and aluminum. Asking $80 shipped for the steel and $60 shipped for Aluminum. Will sell both for $130 shipped.

Picked this off the prize table and intended to use it, but some bills got in the way. Asking $200 for it. I can mail it or send a photo with the code shown.

Catch and release, this ended up being a bit heavier than I wanted for a hunting rig.

Great condition S&B 4-16x42 PMII. Illuminated P4F reticle, CCW turrets, mil adjustments. Comes with original box. Glass is excellent with no marks/blemishes. Very light scope ring marks, you can hardly see them at all.

$2200 shipped, PayPal F&F, Venmo, Zelle, USPS MO. SOLD

Will also consider partial trade on a NF NXS 2.5-10x32 or 2.5-10x42 (and maybe a TT315M).

I’m getting nothing but failure to eject. The bolt gets stuck at the top and if I force it, the ejector skips over the rim of the case and it fails to eject.

I have to grab the cleaning rod and hammer it out after each time. Problem is, I’m using a very light charge.

specs:
30 inch barrel + huxwrx flow through can
Defiance ruckus action

Lapua brass
300 gr 338 OTM
81 gr of retumbo
3.055 inches base to ogive.

Every time it gets stuck: as video shows (via YouTube)

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Not sure what’s going on? I know I’m no where near max pressure. Case gets stuck even without suppressor on too.

Looking for the old school AI scope mount for the early AW dovetail rifles.

A nice Remington 700 LTR in 308 caliber up for grab. 20" threaded ball barrel. The action has been bedded and the Walker trigger tuned to ~4 lb by a local smith. Nice shooter with a very handy H-P Precision stock. It comes with a Nightforce scope rail. The scope on the rifle is an Zeiss Conquest MC 6.5-20 with Mil Dot reticle.

1050 without the scope
1600 with the scope

Your FFL needs to accept from a private individual.

Gun list
Aero Precision 16” AR15 mlock rail. Factory upper and lower $675
Savage 110 tactical 308 20” fluted and threaded barrel 5/8-24 new in the box $700
Aero precision complete factory lower $300
Howa mini action 6mm arc carbon fiber 20” in a stockies carbon fiber stock. Vortex crossfire 3-9 the stock is a factory second and has a small scuff on the grip otherwise new $1100
Bergara B14R carbon fiber 22LR in a MPA light folding chassis $1150
Aero Precision ar15 lower with pistol brace and 10.5 upper. Vortex red dot and magpul flip up sights. $800
Sightron 3-16 mrad with mount sold
Arken SH4J Gen III 6-24 mrad $300 with rings
Smith and Wesson M&P 9mm long slide FDE some holster wear but great shooter $375
Smith and Wesson model 642 38 spl $425
Trijicon MRO like new sold
Holosun magnifier $150
Sight mark wraith night time scope $300
Ruger LCP 22 lr threaded barrel $300
Aero precision 22 arc 10.5 upper Shaw barrel $350
Thompson center carbine in 223 Wylde mgm 1-7 twist 16” threaded 1/2-28 $700
PSA dagger with a Holosun 509t $700
PSA mini dagger with sig Romeo RS $500
Springfield 1911 operator 45 acp $875
Impact precision nbk with a CRB 20” 6.5 barreled action done by Wade Stuteville $2100
Colt 16” carbine factory centurion mlock rail $1000 like new
Leupold MK5 2-10 in a Geissele mount like new $1500 with mount
Greyboe trek SA stock new sold very light
AGM rattler V-2 35-384
Like new mounted once never hunted $2000
Sony A7III $1100
Have Sony lenses available
Only trades I am looking for is a 22 Creedmoor prefit for an impact or origin and a leupold MK 5 5-25 tremor 3 origin short action
Please message me for detailed pics

Parting ways with one of my Desert Tech SRS-A2 rifles.
18” ES tactical 6.5cm with round count book.
(158 rounds)
Also has multiple full length Carbon fiber oversized handguards + the OEM covert handgaurd.

Rifle only, no bipod or scope.

$3900

Selling a Geissele Mount 34mm 05-205 in DDC in like new condition
$250 shipped

like new brown kestrel 5700 elite with AB and Link. Kept as a backup, but it rarely gets used, so it’s time to sell. Very minimal use and no signs of wear.

$600 shipped conus

I shoot a 6mm GT in PRS and have roughly 1,200+ pieces of Hornady Brass I would like to sell. If you are interested, shoot me a message on how many you want. I would like to get 0.42 cents each which is half of what GA-Precession is selling it for. If you buy 500 pieces, I will sell for 0.32 cents each.