So just a question,

With the new ruling from the supreme court, a bunch of cases are going back down to the lower courts. I'm in NY. From my understanding if Maryland where to overturn the AWB, states such as Maryland, NJ, NY would also be overturned? Does anyone know when this case is going before the 4th circuit for a decision. I know it's just a pipe dream they would overturn it, but I'm curious.

Anyone using or tried it ? Did a search and nothing came up so thought I would ask .

Area 419 autotrickler cup and 3d printed parts
$80 OBO shipped

30 cal anchor brake and a 5/8x24TPI DT adapter. $45 shipped each.

*** Special thanks to hide member reubenski who's setup with barrel flats inspired this rabbit hole. ***


The last couple of years I've moved to a modular rifle system that uses Bighorn actions and a pile of interchangeable barrels in various chamberings and states of wear. The weak link in all of this was always the time and equipment required to swap the barrels around. Thinking about this led me to develop a system (based around a barrel vise) for quickly changing rifle barrels in the field (or at home). It came out better than I thought, and I had a batch of them made (instead of just one) because I'm certain other shooters would like the capacity it offers.






Here's a quick demo video:


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To lay it out in more detail:

In order to remove or install a barrel using this method, you need to get a grip on the barrel and on the action or stock.





GRIPPING THE BARREL

This is what the Ross Vise is designed to do.

INSTALL THE VISE
Loosen the cap nuts, then slip the vise around your barrel with the square drive recesses facing the muzzle. Hand tighten the cap nuts.







TORQUE THE CAP NUTS
Tighten the nuts using a torque wrench, ratchet, or breaker bar with a 15/16 socket (a deep socket will work best), a 15/16 end wrench, or an adjustable wrench. If using a torque wrench, torquing the cap nuts to the same spec as the barrel is tightened to has always proved sufficient to remove it without slippage. The stock or chassis makes for great leverage so it is easy to get the nuts tight, we recommend you turn the rifle vertically. Avoid using the scope or scope rings for leverage.








TORQUE THE BARREL
Insert a torque wrench, ratchet, or breaker bar into one of the 1/2" square drive recesses on the face of the vise. If you desire to protect the finish of your vise, we recommend using a 3/8" drive with a 1/2" adapter, or a short 1/2" drive extension, in order to keep the wrench clear of the vise. The vise is made of anodized aluminum, and while it is durable, it will show marks if you repeatedly hit it with steel!






GRIPPING THE ACTION / STOCK

Now that we have plenty of leverage on the barrel, we need leverage on the action. Exactly how we get this will depend upon how tight your barrel is installed, what type of stock or chassis you have, and what you are comfortable with. Here's a few options:


GRIP THE STOCK - AND POP THE BARREL LOOSE
If you run a light torque value on your barrels, it is possible to remove and install the barrel using only the leverage afforded by the stock. In testing we have found 30 ft-lb to be easy to reach, and 40 ft-lb to be within reach - though no longer "easy". The exact technique used matters, place your foot at the butt of the rifle and put the grip into your calf. Many competitive shooters run torque values this light on their barrels with great success. The biggest downside that we see with running a lightly torqued barrel is you are a little bit closer to having your barrel come loose. If your barrel becomes loose during a competition or a hunt, your ability to hit your target will be compromised, severely!







INSIDE ACTION WRENCH AND A T-HANDLE
By using an action wrench with a T-handle in combination with the vise, you are essentially exerting the same forces on your barrel and action as you would installing and removing barrels the traditional way, in a shop, with a bench mounted vise and an inside action wrench. By using a strap around the T-handle, you will keep the assembly from falling out of the rifle and save yourself a lot of frustration. This method will easily support the 80 ft-lb torque that is the recommended maximum for the vise, if you desire your barrels to be that tight. The only downsides to this method are that it requires you to own an inside action wrench for your action(s), and that it can be a little slower to set up, especially if you have an adjustable cheek piece in the way which must first be removed.







PIPE CLAMP
Using an inexpensive iron pipe clamp (my clamp came from Harbor Freight for ~ $10, and my 3/4" pipe came from the hardware store for less than that), tighten the clamp around your chassis or stock, and use the pipe as the leverage to remove and install your barrel. Add some rubber to the jaws (another $2 at the hardware store) to avoid damage to your stock or chassis. We recommend clamping around the recoil lug/front action screw juncture, and proceeding with caution! When using this method you are transferring force from the clamp to the stock - and then from the stock to the action via the action screws and any bedding surrounding the recoil lug. We have had great success with this method and have not damaged anything, but the potential is there. Be especially cautious about using this method with a lightly built wood, fiberglass, or carbon fiber stock. In our testing we used this method on a bedded rifle in a chassis - and after 100 removals and installs at 80 ft-lb the bedding was still tight and showed no signs of being worse for the wear, nor did any other components.








"MPA ROD"
For those with the popular Masterpiece Arms chassis, there is a recess behind the grip that will ALMOST take a 1 1/2" x 1/2" piece of aluminum stock (as seen in the demo video at the top of the page). I purchased a 2 foot piece that size from the local metal supply for ~ $10, and then spend about 10 minutes with a flap disc on an angle grinder rounding off the edges and taking the last two inches down from .500" to .475" so it would slip into this recess. As with the pipe clamp method, you are transferring force through your action screws and bedding, so proceed with caution. For testing purposes, I installed and removed a barrel set to 120 ft-lbs using this method with no ill effects, however I absolutely do not recommend that much torque, nor do I take responsibility if you manage to damage your stock using this technique. Additionally, if you are particular about the finish on your chassis inside this pocket, this will scratch it slightly, so proceed with that knowledge





If you're interested, there's even more detail at the site I set up: www.rossprecisionmt.com.

Does anyone have experience flying with reloading components? Powder and primers will pose an obvious challenge but what about bullets or brass? I will be traveling out of state and be flying with southwest. I am curious if I would be able to buy products at a shop I know is in the area we are going to. Thanks in advance.

The “authorities” in Austin are urging people to remain calm, it’s all internet speculation- as they pull BODY #38 out of the same lake .

Brand new unopened
$1300 shipped

For some reason I can’t get the other photos to load.

I've built dozens of uppers using ballistic advantage barrels all 223 wylde or 5.55, well one .308. All have been pretty good, every (about 6)18 SPR stainless barrel upper I've built has shot lights out. I've had some 16s that were just ok, one 223 wylde 16 that could group for sheer. The 10-14.5 i really didn't try to test accuracy much since they were just short blaster builds.

The last 5 or so I paired with BKF mod 0 thermal fit uppers, freezing the barrel overnight and heating the upper is definitely required, very tight fit.

Brand new impact 737r 90 degree throw with a CRB 6dasher spun up by TS Customs. 5/8-24 threads.
$2370 shipped to your ffl.

I'm wondering if anyone has diagnosed or solved this issue, my bolt knob takes kind of a lot of pressure to close. I'll review conditions below

Also bergara said I can send it in but no idea really not something the guy I talked to had seen.

As much pressure to close as it does to lift

Feels like I'm really "camming over"

B14r steel BA in Krg bravo, factory trigger with adjustment screw removed, mag in or out no difference , loading rounds or empty chamber no difference, in chassis or out no real difference, first time or cycling the bolt without pulling the trigger no difference.

I've dry fired (with drywall snap caps) probably 50 times? And fired around 200 live rounds as well.

I added some lube (I almost exclusively use mobile one euro formula 5w40) but didn't yet clean out the factory grease.

Things of considered doing, removing the trigger and testing, cleaning out all the factory lube and going heavy on the oil relube, removing the trigger and just lapping in the bolt lugs with compound 800, 1200 and then flitz polish, breaking the leading edges of the bolt faces with a stone, or just ignoring it and shooting it.


What would you do? Or did you do?

Lead time at bergara is around 45 days and they said they would send return label etc....

Pic for attention

I didn't have tools to lower my cheekpiece collars so I shot with a chin weld for this day

Looking specifically for: Hawkins one-piece Heavy Tac mount (NON-cantilever) 34mm 1.5'' 0 MOA. Let me know what you got.

Has anyone seen the new Tricer RP Bipod at any of the shows? If so what are your thoughts on it?

There seems to be a lot of positives and adjustability for the price point - I'm just curious what people think who have seen it in person.

Tricer RP Bipod

Looking to buy a new or used Seekins upper (no rail, just receiver) to finish a build I started before they became popular

Lesson learned on posting WTB

SOLD LRI 300NM barreled action SOLD
Defiance Deviant Tactical action; RH/LP Single Shot (blind bottom); heavy tang; fluted bolt; fluted shroud; 30 MOA rail; PMA bore guide; Defiance receiver wrench

K&P barrel chambered by LRI: 32”, 1:8, 1.25” straight, 3/4-24 muzzle thread, 440 rounds fired

Proven ELR performance with 250 A-TIPs.

Not included: trigger, stock, bi-pod, optic, mount, level, brake
l

New never used
$365 Shipped
Zelle or Venmo

County codes enforcement doesn't like that this farmer has farm equipment on his land and is threatening him with legal action.

I have a like new amp annealer mkii aztec
With amp mate. I have everything as new.
I will list what pilots I have when I get home this afternoon along with revised model.


AMP MATE IS NOT THE REVISED MODEL.

S̶O̶L̶D̶ A̶s̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ 1̶2̶2̶5̶ f̶o̶r̶ a̶m̶p̶ a̶n̶n̶e̶a̶l̶e̶r̶ A̶z̶t̶e̶c̶ s̶h̶i̶p̶p̶e̶d̶
̶S̶O̶L̶D̶ ̶A̶s̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶2̶5̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶a̶m̶p̶ ̶m̶a̶t̶e̶.̶


THE ONLY ITEMS THAT ARE INCLUDED ARE THE ANNEALER AND AMP MATE.

I will post pictures later this afternoon.

I prefer non-fee PayPal payment or add 3.5%.

Original owner and condition is excellent to mint with very lite ring marks. 1 inch tube and focuses down to 25 meters. 3/8’s Dot reticle. Had this mounted on an Anschutz 1712 but never saw a range trip. Comes with optional Leupold Aluma screw in lens caps, scope coat, and sunshade.
AC serial number suffix manufactured 2016 and I bought it in 2017. $695 shipped. PP F&F

Brand new. On sale for $500 shipped

Has anyone here ever bought a 20' shipping container for storage in the back yard? They seem more secure than a shed. I'm looking to store extra tools that I really don't use that often and are taking up space in the garage. I see them on markerplace but they all seem scammy.
If they actually are selling them where are they getting them from?

So full transparency I am posting this for a good friend in Indiana. Facetime calls are a must for this transaction.

Go read the site rules. Selling for a friend is not allowed. Do not do this again.

Looking to acquire, Can purchase or trade for...

Here are the pics of the work up. Fairly new at load development, thought my SD and es would be a little lower than this. Thoughts?