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How are lenses cleaned at the factory?

joe498

Private
Minuteman
Apr 11, 2022
4
2
pennsylvania
Especially, how are they dried?

When I open up the box on a new optical device, the lenses are absolutely perfectly clean.

I can never get them that clean. There is always some residue and "water marks" that remain on the lens.

I have seen any number of videos and articles on lens cleaning and I somehow think that they are not "gently swabbing the lens and rubbing with microfiber cloth"

on a high volume assembly line.

The reason for this inquiry is that I got my first pistol mounted red dot and got fingerprints and oil spray on the front lens.

In the past I have avoided cleaning my lenses at all cost, because of the risk of damage, and as described above, I can't get them really clean, regardless .
 
100% isopropyl (well, really 99%) will work well but you need to be careful with getting that on anything other than the glass.
 
Especially, how are they dried?

When I open up the box on a new optical device, the lenses are absolutely perfectly clean.

I can never get them that clean. There is always some residue and "water marks" that remain on the lens.

I have seen any number of videos and articles on lens cleaning and I somehow think that they are not "gently swabbing the lens and rubbing with microfiber cloth"

on a high volume assembly line.

The reason for this inquiry is that I got my first pistol mounted red dot and got fingerprints and oil spray on the front lens.

In the past I have avoided cleaning my lenses at all cost, because of the risk of damage, and as described above, I can't get them really clean, regardless .

Just like I tell people with sunglasses, car windows and mirrors, stop touching them with your grubby mitts.
 
100% isopropyl (well, really 99%) will work well but you need to be careful with getting that on anything other than the glass.
A new scope is perfectly clean from edge to edge with zero lint or watermarks.

I don't think that the factory uses the circular swabbing technique. If they did there would be evidence of it - dirt and cleaning fluid at the perimeter and in

the lens retaining nut wrench notches.

How does the manufacturer remove the cleaning fluid? If I let the cleaning fluid evaporate or blow it off with compressed air it leaves residue watermarks.
 
When I worked with lasers we would clean the optics with high quality dry lense wipes and a special lense cleaner. Set the dry wipe on the lense, spray the cleaner onto the wipe, stretch the wipe over the lense like you were saran wrapping a bowl, and then slide it off in a straight line. It worked great. There's no streaking because the cleaner leaves no reside, and there's less linear surface engagement than using the cloth in a circular motion so a lower propensity for scratching the lense with whatever abrasive material is sitting on it when you start.

That technique of sliding off the edge is not possible with a recessed scope lense. The keys are:
- Use high quality wet lense wipes or dry lense wipes and lense cleaner
- Don't put much direct pressure onto the wipe. Let the cleaner loosen the debris, but don't push the wipe into the lense.
- Dilute dish soap and water works great. You can do a rinse with distilled water when you're done if you want.

I personally like to use dish soap, hand soap or spray dish soap and water on my optical stuff as a first step. It removes most of the debris before any force is applied through a cloth.
 
Some of you people are fucking autistic

Clean the fucking lens with rubbing alcohol, windex, or any other fucking thing you want. You won't harm it.

I have four pistol mounted optics. They are Trijicons, not cheapo ching-chong garbage. One of them gets soot all over it because of how close it is to the ejection port (an SRO) and sometimes I'm in a hurry and I rub it off with my t shirt during make ready. Another one (another SRO) has dings on the lens and rim from brass cases hitting it (fucking Glocks).

None of that makes one lick of difference to their usability.
 
I am looking for perfection here. The factory achieves perfect ,scratch free, cleanliness with each and every product they ship.

They must have some sophisticated techniques that I am not aware of.

It might not be practical to use factory methods in the field but If I knew how it was done , maybe I could get better results.

The "sliding off" method with lens tissue sounds interesting, but I don't think that the factory workers are doing that.

I find lens tissue to be completely non- absorbent and therefore useless for drying a lens.

Facial tissue is good for drying, but it leaves lint on the lens.
 
Some of you people are fucking autistic

Clean the fucking lens with rubbing alcohol, windex, or any other fucking thing you want. You won't harm it.

I have four pistol mounted optics. They are Trijicons, not cheapo ching-chong garbage. One of them gets soot all over it because of how close it is to the ejection port (an SRO) and sometimes I'm in a hurry and I rub it off with my t shirt during make ready. Another one (another SRO) has dings on the lens and rim from brass cases hitting it (fucking Glocks).

None of that makes one lick of difference to their usability.
This is the reality of it. The ideal case is to be meticulous, but a quick blow off and rub with a gentle fabric is usually all you need.

Besides, if it's a Vortex it's going back for warranty anyways, they can swap the lenses for you when they're fixing your broken scope.
 
I am looking for perfection here. The factory achieves perfect ,scratch free, cleanliness with each and every product they ship.

They must have some sophisticated techniques that I am not aware of.

It might not be practical to use factory methods in the field but If I knew how it was done , maybe I could get better results.

The "sliding off" method with lens tissue sounds interesting, but I don't think that the factory workers are doing that.

I find lens tissue to be completely non- absorbent and therefore useless for drying a lens.

Facial tissue is good for drying, but it leaves lint on the lens.
They exist in a clean production cell. There is no lint, hair, dandruff or dust in that environment. The lenses are installed either by machine or by tool, and are not touched by hand. They may clean them, they may have a centrifugal dryer, they may not even need to clean them after their coatings. I don't know. But that is a whole different world that doesn't have much crossover for us once those scopes enter the open air.
 
I am looking for perfection here. The factory achieves perfect ,scratch free, cleanliness with each and every product they ship.

They must have some sophisticated techniques that I am not aware of.
Yes. It's some schlub who does it ALL day EVERY day. Repetition tends to make people competent.
 
Getting ready to tour the Burris facility in Greeley Colorado in about an hour.

I'll ask 😉
About 8 years ago Burris told me acetone.

I tend to use Zeiss lens wipes when the lenses get spots on them that’s too hard for a lens pen.

59A9187E-9B4C-499F-98D4-B190DAEC2F73.jpeg


My wife sprayed my binocs with olive oil when we were camping. She didn’t think to move them off if the table before prepping veggies. The wipes cleaned them up. It took more than a few…
 
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I am looking for perfection here. The factory achieves perfect ,scratch free, cleanliness with each and every product they ship.

They must have some sophisticated techniques that I am not aware of.

It might not be practical to use factory methods in the field but If I knew how it was done , maybe I could get better results.

You would shit your pants if you saw what the ocular side of the lens on my carry gun RMR looks like after a week.

Stop being so autistic about this shit.

On second thought it sounds like this is some range toy for you, so carry on.

tumblr_psp92rHHc81xch6xgo2_400.gif
 
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You know what would be awesome?
If someone that works in the factory or maybe touring it, like previously mentioned, would answer the question asked. Instead, there’s 50 “this is how I do it” responses. 🤣
 
When I worked with lasers we would clean the optics with high quality dry lense wipes and a special lense cleaner. Set the dry wipe on the lense, spray the cleaner onto the wipe, stretch the wipe over the lense like you were saran wrapping a bowl, and then slide it off in a straight line. It worked great. There's no streaking because the cleaner leaves no reside, and there's less linear surface engagement than using the cloth in a circular motion so a lower propensity for scratching the lense with whatever abrasive material is sitting on it when you start.

That technique of sliding off the edge is not possible with a recessed scope lense. The keys are:
- Use high quality wet lense wipes or dry lense wipes and lense cleaner
- Don't put much direct pressure onto the wipe. Let the cleaner loosen the debris, but don't push the wipe into the lense.
- Dilute dish soap and water works great. You can do a rinse with distilled water when you're done if you want.

I personally like to use dish soap, hand soap or spray dish soap and water on my optical stuff as a first step. It removes most of the debris before any force is applied through a cloth.
The answer was here. 99% Isopropyl alcohol is what we use. Clean first to remove contaminates, using clean wipes only. Then when ready for final clean, place dry lens wipe over optic, add a few drops of solution on top of optic wetting the dry lens wipe, and then drag off for a streak free perfect finish.
 
The lens/screen cleaner they use for LCD TV's and glasses works great with a *CLEAN* microfiber cloth or lens wipe. For me....YMMV.

VooDoo
 
It's usually acetone but I think it's unrealistic to expect your glass to be as clean as when they assemble it. Aimpoint does their assembly in a clean room.

I am working out the details on something that will clean without any mechanical agitation and remove everything off the lens.

For now, this is how I clean my glass:

Blow off lenses with air (duster or oil-free air compressor)
Distilled water in a lab wash bottle to spray off debris and as much of whatever is on the lenses
Use dawn dish soap with dish water and agitate with a q-tip or microfiber, if necessary
Rinse with DI water

End result is always clear glass. Using DI water and clean q-tip/microfiber is key as it should leave no dust and the dawn should strip off all the oil and residue.
 
I do have 100% acetone here as well as 99% ISO.

To me, a big diff between using acetone at home vs in the factory is that (I assume) the lens are not mounted in the factory so no worries if the acetone will eat finishes, seals, etc.
 
low paying if any slave laborers or we little people , could be elves like those that made those cookies in that tree .
 
Too much lens cleaning is OCD not knee deep on the spectrum.

There are boatloads of videos w/the circular motion starting from the ctr/swabs/Q-tip technique. After all these years, I've simplified how I approach this so I don't spend a lot of time getting dirt/dust/fingerprints ON glass, and then wasting needless time getting it OFF.

The box of Zeiss wipes pictured in this discussion holds 200 packs. Get these if you're going to get lens wipes They're damp, not dripping wet, and they completely dry in 1-2 minutes.

You take several packs w/you out in the "boonies" which is the idea.



Buy a bulb blower for .99 cents; when the front glass gets dirty enough/thin film of whatever/fingerprints, blow it off a couple of times.

Take out a zeiss wipe, start at the center of the glass, moderate pressure for about a 1 minute. Wipe as the dampness begins to disappear(if you stop wiping before it dries, you'll see it.)



Some folks can get the glass looking like brand new, other folks will never get it right.



For the last 45 yrs. I've put UV (mc on both sides) filters in front of my glass. I've already got the filter accessory thread sizes from March for my 4.5-28X56 scope,

Doing it this way keeps the glass prinstine; you clean filters off when they get enough dirt/fingerprints. Also more money on a resale.


I've already had a debate about this (filtration fucking up/degrading the image), some folks disagree, that's fine, so spare me, this is how I do it, so by all means, you do it whatever way you want.


If you choose not to use protective filters over your optics, and even w/normal build-up of fine dust, you probably won't have to clean the front glass of your optics more than 2-3 times a year unless you've splashed some crazy shit/mud over them. If you've just got a "speck here" or a "speck there", just leave it alone.

You'll get more damage to an optic from mold/fungus storing it in a damp/closed space. Surface mold/fungus shows up; get that off asap.
 
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You know what would be awesome?
If someone that works in the factory or maybe touring it, like previously mentioned, would answer the question asked. Instead, there’s 50 “this is how I do it” responses. 🤣
Haha, tough crowd 🤣

Had a great tour, super cool. Grabbed some food with the Burris guys, got a new XTR3i out of the deal, and made a mad dash for the Denver airport. Now I'm just waiting for my flight back to Boise.

In a nutshell, you cant replicate the means used at the factory to clean the glass. Everything is handled in clean room lab conditions.



This gal is inspecting newly installed glass in XTR Pros. You can see several of them standing on the right of her counter. The red light helps the glue used on the lens to dry more quickly.



I was told to make sure there is no dust on the lens via either a lens brush or compressed air. Then a cleaning wipe made for lens of this nature. The Zeiss wipes are supposed to be very good.

Do not use household window cleaners such as Windex. Its designed for your household windows and mirrors, not optics with complicated coatings designed to help control color and light.

That's right from optical engineers fellas. Nothing super complicated. 😉
 
Haha, tough crowd 🤣

Had a great tour, super cool. Grabbed some food with the Burris guys, got a new XTR3i out of the deal, and made a mad dash for the Denver airport. Now I'm just waiting for my flight back to Boise.

In a nutshell, you cant replicate the means used at the factory to clean the glass. Everything is handled in clean room lab conditions.

@TheHorta
Challenge accepted. 😂
 
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You think those scopes are painted? And the acetone on a q tip evaporates so fast that it doesn't affect o-rings or adhesives. If they are soaked in acetone it will damage them. Also, lens coatings are metallic and applied to the lens at high temperatures. Acetone won't hurt those coatings at all. Most glass cleaner contains ammonia, which can be corrosive to certain metals.
 
Hmmmm, yet according to others, MEK and acetone are perfectly fine....At least isopropyl alcohol generally doesn't eat paint or other finishes.
I'm not an optical engineer. But I got to have a great conversation with one. I got a great explanation on how coatings work, how color spectrums are manipulated, and a whole slough of things that went completely over my head (but he had the bit in his mouth, and was obviously very passionate about what he was doing, so I didn't want to interrupt him). I know a lot more than I did before.

I can't speak to what other people say. But I think the fella I spoke to was a pretty smart guy. I'm just going to take his advice.
 
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I had something on the ocular lens I couldn’t get off. I didn’t want to ruin it so I dropped it with a friend who works at Nightforce. He got it right off and told me how, MEK. He also said to NOT use window cleaner.
I have been through their assembly department a few times and seen it done.

pretty much, you won't ever find windex or any other commercial cleaners in an optical facility

main reason is there's way too much other crap in it

a common ophthalmic(eye glasses) cleaner that's great is
50% IPA + a few drops of regular dawn
- this is basically what you buy in a spray bottle at Lenscrafters/Costco/Target optical, etc...
- also very commonly used at final inspection at ophthalmic optical labs
 
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100% isopropyl (well, really 99%) will work well but you need to be careful with getting that on anything other than the glass.
It's nowhere near as aggressive as the MEK suggestion.
The answer to the OP is that they build them in CleanRooms.
 
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I hear you on that note. I just wonder how safe some other chemicals and strong solvents like MEK can be.
FYI on the MEK: it's on its way out. Several years ago, I found out you can't buy it in NH any more, or get it shipped there. I got a couple gallons sent to a VT address I had at the time. Ironic that I could get it in leftist bunnyhugger heaven Vermont, but not NH. I am quite sure you can't buy it in Commiefornia. It is very powerful and toxic, but it has its place, especially when used with ventilation. My point being that, if you want some, better grab it up while you can, if you still can. Several other solvents are becoming more and more difficult to acquire, too. My Dad used to use carbon tetrachloride - that stuff hasn't been available for decades.
 
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I am not necessarily trying to replicate the factory set up. I don't need a clean room to clean the front lens on my scope.

I want to be able to dry my lens so it is clean from edge to edge with zero cleaning solution residue, streaks and water spots.

I believe that industry has ways to achieve this result but they only offer the same tired old suggestions involving lens cleaners of various types and

swabbing. ( methods that absolutely do not work ! )

My red dot optic still has oil on the lens. I have tried 2 kinds of lens cleaning fluid and isopropyl alcohol. The oil is now smeared around in a uniform coating. I have not tried acetone, yet.

A previous poster mentioned centrifugal drying, so I tied a cord to the trigger guard of my pistol and whirled it around to dry it.

The optic lenses are the cleanest they have been, but not "factory clean." (I might need to increase the RPM's)

Another poster suggested de ionized water, so I am going to order some. That could be the secret solution, If it will dry without residue.
 
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I previous poster mentioned centrifugal drying, so I tied a cord to the trigger guard of my pistol and whirled it around to dry it.
Haha! That’s a funny mental image!

Maybe the dishwasher? Test the water resistance while your at it… 😜
Just make sure you got jet dry rinse aid in there to prevent water spots.
 
I am not necessarily trying to replicate the factory set up. I don't need a clean room to clean the front lens on my scope.

I want to be able to dry my lens so it is clean from edge to edge with zero cleaning solution residue, streaks and water spots.

I believe that industry has ways to achieve this result but they only offer the same tired old suggestions involving lens cleaners of various types and

swabbing. ( methods that absolutely do not work ! )

My red dot optic still has oil on the lens. I have tried 2 kinds of lens cleaning fluid and isopropyl alcohol. The oil is now smeared around in a uniform coating. I have not tried acetone, yet.

A previous poster mentioned centrifugal drying, so I tied a cord to the trigger guard of my pistol and whirled it around to dry it.

The optic lenses are the cleanest they have been, but not "factory clean." (I might need to increase the RPM's)

Another poster suggested de ionized water, so I am going to order some. That could be the secret solution, If it will dry without residue.

This guy can't be serious. He's gotta be trolling us.
 
This was my response to a similar post a few years ago

Cleaning Your Glass

When searching for information on the internet you get some questionable responses, some weird responses, some funny responses and some great responses... the problem the one searching is how do you figure out from the menagerie of responses which is "best"... welcome to the internet. A question was recently asked on Snipers Hide about how do you clean your glass which prompted my response. I will preface this article by saying that I have a professional photography background so in dealing with camera lenses and, later on, digital sensors (or rather the glass that covers the sensor) you have a very similar system to what we have in all optics - glass elements that have multicoating applied with lenses exposed to the outside. While most manufacturers today use techniques with both glass and multicoating that help resist against scratches and water build up, any surface is prone to being scratched and a scratch is permanent, once there it cannot be fixed other than sending to the manufacturer, so the very first priority when considering cleaning the front or rear objective of your expensive optic is to reduce the possibility of scratching that surface. Dust may seem harmless enough, but even the tiniest dust spec can cause a scratch so I go through the following steps in order to minimize damaging the glass on my optics. That being said, I would not fret at having some light scratches on your front or rear objectives as they will most likely not adversely affect the IQ of your scope.



STEP 1 - Does the glass really need to be cleaned?

The first step is to assess whether or not the glass surface actually needs to be cleaned. There is no need to "assume" you should clean your glass, take a look at it and if at first glance you don't see much (a few dust particles are not going to hurt the view through the scope) then don't sweat it and keep on shooting, in fact, your glass can get pretty dirty before your eye will start to notice a degradation.



STEP 2 - Clean the glass without touching it

As others have mentioned, before you wipe your glass with anything it is crucial that you remove as much debris as possible without actually touching the glass. I typically use a can of compressed air, the kind you can get at Costco, Walmart, Best Buy, et al. I also understand that some would not recommend compressed air as there can be additives that might make their way onto the glass surface, also, if the can is used improperly you can end up spraying the liquid fluorocarbons (or whatever they're using these days) onto the glass surface so proceed with caution and make sure you don't shake the can or use it at an angle that would allow the liquid to spray out as not only can it leave a residue that takes more effort to clean but is also extremely cold and has the potential to crack your glass on a hot day. If the compressed air makes you nervous I highly recommend the American Recorder Tech Deluxe Large Sensor Cleaning Kit that you can get from a good camera store, what I like about this kit is the portability of the small CO2 blaster and the specialized CO2 cartridges it comes with (WARNING: DO NOT USE REGULAR CO2 CARTRIDGES AS THEY CONTAIN OILS AND CONTAMINANTS) and the same rules apply as the compressed air so be careful not to spray out the liquid. This kit also has an optical cleaning fluid and some swab wipes; however, the fluid it comes with is not very quick drying and I prefer optical cleaners that dry a bit quicker (see next section). But this is a handy little kit to keep in your range go bag. Another great option that doesn't require any kind of compressed gasses is the Rocket Blaster which is just a photographic quality bulb that sucks in air and blasts it out when you squeeze the bulb (just make sure you keep it clean and away from dirt and dust - I keep mine in a ziploc bag). I do not recommend the blasters that have the brush heads and those brushes are prone to collect debris that can then be transferred back to the lens at a later time. So now that you've cleared your glass surface of as much debris as possible without touching it, if you still notice some schmutz on the objective you may need to go to the next step. One final hint, if you're using an ARD or sunshade off the front objective remove it before blasting air because these items will help to trap debris inside which could find their way back onto the objective.



STEP 3 - Clean the glass surface with a lens cloth or cotton swab

Can you use your shirt or cotton rag to clean your lens? Sure you can; however, we are trying to remove contaminants not add them, your shirt could have oils from your skin, dirt that the wind has blown on it or that you picked up by leaning against something, etc. so it's typically unwise to use a regular cloth or t-shirt to clean. Can you use a micro fiber cleaning cloth, again yes, but any cloth holds the potential of collecting other contaminants over time so I prefer to use disposable cloth wipes that you use once and toss. My preference is to use Pec Pads, I have been using these for years with great success, they are lint free and non-abrasive and should be available at a local camera store, they come in a plastic wrapper but I also store mine inside a ziploc bag as added protection to help keep dust away. My first line of defense when using the cloth to get some spots off the lens is to use my breath to form a light film of condensation on the glass surface which I then wipe off in a circular motion working my way from the center out. If the schmutz persists it’s time to go to the final step. Warning, when using any cloth it is very important that you keep your fingers on the opposite side of the lens cloth because your fingers/skin contains oils which can smear your glass surface, never turn the cloth over to use the other side when you've already placed your fingers on that side because the cloth can now transfer those oils. Sometimes there may be just a "spec" on the glass surface that doesn't require you to wipe the entire surface, in these instances you can use a cotton swab, I prefer the 6" swabs with wooden handles as these give me more distance and are more sturdy than something like Q-tips, and I believe the cotton they use in these swabs or more free of lint and debris, I also keep these swabs inside their bag with only a small hole cut in the corner so I can remove one at a time and eliminate the possibility of contaminates getting on them. Tip: these swabs are also great for cleaning rifles and pistols in hard to reach places.



STEP 4 - Use a quick dry liquid safe for coated optics

I do not recommend using a store bought window cleaner or even water (unless you are using distilled water) as these can contain ammonia (can be harmful to multicoatings) and dissolved solids. There are two liquids that I prefer, the first is from Lens Clens and is specially designed for multicoated glass surfaces, it is a great liquid that dries quickly and I will apply just a drop or two on a 4x4 pec pad and start from the center and work my way out in a circular motion. The second liquid I recommend is Visible Dust Sensor Clean Solution which not only has cleaning properties but also dust repellent properties and anti-fogging capabilities. When you first wipe the glass with the moist cloth you might notice some streaking of the liquid, this is okay, once the liquid dries I then use a dry pec pad to wipe from center out and that removes any residue the liquid may have left. Using this method, I have been able to restore my glass to its original clean state with minimal effort. One final thought, do not overdo it on how much liquid you use with a lens cloth or swab, just one or two drops is more than enough, in fact, I've had my 1-3/4 oz bottle of Lens Clens 1 for over 10 years now and I've only used half of it which is mostly due to step 1 and 2 above as 90% of the time a blast of air will clean the surface sufficiently enough and if I don't have to touch the glass surface with anything then that is the best option.



So in summary:

  • Does the glass really need to be cleaned?
  • Most of the time a blast of air is sufficient to clean the glass surface of any debris
  • Use a lint free, disposable lens cloth or high quality cotton swab
  • Use a liquid made for multicoated glass surfaces that dries quickly


Here are some links that may help you search online for some of the items referenced above: