Now to seat some of them in my Creedmoor brass to see if they're tight or just right, then shoot them in the spring.
- Thread starter JGorski
- Start date
they'll be tight, but that's no problem. Just use a press mounted priming tool. I tried them a while back, but didn't do enough testing to make a good assessment.
Good luck with them!
Good luck with them!
Actually, they fit perfectly, much like a 210M primer would fit. And, I got to use my 6xc Forster Ultra Micrometer seater as well, these 5 shells were less than .001" runout, 2 were like next to nothing. 43grs H4831sc under 115DTACs.
I surely will, I'll even show pics. Just have to wait til spring is all.
I cannot remember if I got around to my stock of Tula, but I used a ton of Wolf primers and really like them. I chronied Wolf loads and got tighter ES than with CCI BR or Federal. A long while back, someone tipped me off that the Wolfs are the shit, so I tried them. Since then, I made sure that all of my match loads had wolf in them. Reason I am mentioning this is because I believe Tula and Wolf are the same, or at least out of the same factory in the USSR.
Indeed they are from what I heard. I've got a chronograph.
Why wait until spring?
I'm interested too, of course I tend to agree with Col. Jeff Cooper. I won't put anything in my rifle from a country where I wouldn't drink the water. lol.
My main concern is that I have heard that Russian ammo is more corrosive and that that is largely due to the type of primers they use. You would probably have to be a chemist to prove or disprove that.
Shot better scores at F class match with Wolff than CCI benchrest primers with everything else the same, I was sold on those when I read about BR shooters using those to win matches.
Weather too nasty to do any shooting now, unless there's a warmup next week.
Quote:My main concern is that I have heard that Russian ammo is more corrosive and that that is largely due to the type of primers they use. You would probably have to be a chemist to prove or disprove that. Quote: Look at the first pic of the primers, "Non-Corrosive"
Well, that statement on the box says it all. I wouldn't think too hard about it. Now stop being a pussy and go out there and shoot!
It's gotta warm up, and wind needs to calm down quite a bit first. Maybe next week, we shall see. This rifle is for shooting 600 BR so I like to try and shoot in similar conditions when we have our matches. If it gets into the 50s next week I'll be out testing.
I'm certain they will do just fine. Most likely, you won't be able to tell much of a difference between these loads and your previous ones in the field. I made my decision to stick with the soviet primers because of their cost and their great chronograph numbers
Jay
Send them here to hawaii we got great weather everyday i can test them out for you
Hows the forster 6xc seater compare to hornady? I just got my hornady 6creed dies and...is the seater supose to be like that? Stem guide hanging so far out..
I know, I've read that on my SKS ammo too. Not sure I believe it though. (Just cause I'm paranoid doesn't mean they ain't out to get me.)
Most seater dies have the seater body hanging out, so far the Forster Ultra seater has performed admirably, little to no runout, although the Hornady seater has pretty good as well, of the rounds I've seated with the Forster I haven't had any go past .001" runout.Jay
Send them here to hawaii we got great weather everyday i can test them out for you
Hows the forster 6xc seater compare to hornady? I just got my hornady 6creed dies and...is the seater supose to be like that? Stem guide hanging so far out..
I'll send those "test" primers out post haste! hahahaha
Actually, they fit perfectly, much like a 210M primer would fit. And, I got to use my 6xc Forster Ultra Micrometer seater as well, these 5 shells were less than .001" runout, 2 were like next to nothing. 43grs H4831sc under 115DTACs.
I've got to ask...
What the heck is going on with those bullets?
Some call it pixie dust from strippers bellybutton, or you can call it Boron Nitride for short.
I bought 5000 of the small rifle primers from PV last week to use for 3gun loads in my AR. I'm anxious to get out and shoot a few to see how they do. Hope they aren't corrosive because I don't clean my AR but once during the middle of the season and once at the end. Cleaning guns just wears them out faster
You will not have any issues with the wolf primers.I have been shooting them for years with out issues.
Regards,Mike
Regards,Mike
It does look sort of uneven. Do you tumble your bullets first to clean off any oils? I tumble mine in walnut shells for an hour before putting them in the bottle with the Boron Nitride for two hours. They come out with a very even coat of Boron Nitride.Some call it pixie dust from strippers bellybutton, or you can call it Boron Nitride for short.
This is how hBN coated bullets should look (on left vs. un-coated on the right). rsplante, I don't clean mine at all prior to tumbling. The ones in the pic are 6.5s, I tumble mine for a good 6+ hours (usually over night) longer if they're 338s.
I got these from Tubb, I hope he knows what he's doing.
He's making money at least... So he knows how to make a buck.
All you need to do is roll those pills around in a towel to take off the excess. I wouldn't shoot them looking like that until you wipe off the extra hBN, not because they're dangerous or anything but rather you want the coating to be as consistent and uniform as possible. Once you wipe off the excess they should look like mine (above pic) if they're not matte like that then you shouldn't buy from Tubb anymore and should instead do it yourself to get better results. The pills you've already seated aren't going to provide the most consistent load data so maybe use those as shots to warm up your barrel or as sighters or something...
Significantly better coefficient of friction as compared to moly with no sulfur. The purpose is to reduce barrel fouling which increases (significantly) your cleaning interval. I have a 308 with thousands of rounds through it that hasn't been cleaned in 1000+ rounds and last time I cleaned it I did so out of pure curiosity and I pulled very little Cu out of it and it took a few shots to get it back to where it was prior to cleaning. It wont help with accuracy/FPS/etc. and if you swap to hBN coated pills you'll have to do do some test loads to find the new load your rig likes (mine generally seem to need .1gr more powder than before).
I get aprox 75 to 100fps increase in my 6.5x47L with 70nm hBN coated projectile.
I wonder how good these primers are, I've never used them before. Looked at them recently since I'm needing components.
The last groups I shot with these and BR2 primers & 41.6 & 41.9grs H4350 my SD was 12 and 9 respectively, 41.6grs shot a 1.285" group [MENTION=89035]300[/MENTION]yds, 41.9 went 1.7". Winds weren't exactly calm, btw.
I got my HBN kit from Tubb and follow his directions. He says to clean them first by tumbling to remove any oil on the surface, and then to tumble in the HBN.
Im sure he tumbled them before applying the HBN, I didn't apply the stuff.
