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Gunsmithing M16 or Sako Style Extractor Enhancement

Who Dat

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 26, 2011
148
1
Colorado
I am curious if the technology of using the little rubber O ring in combination with the extractor spring on the AR extractor can be used on a bolt action that has the Sako or M16 style extractor to increase positive engagement pressure on the case rim.
 
Not on a Sako type extractor but possibly on a M16 style. However, you're never going to run the bolt face enough to make the extractor float and benefit from an increase in spring rate. If the extractor is slipping off, the hook geometry is incorrect, the spring doesn't do much at that point.
 
That is good information, I guess the next question is where can you find extra power springs for the extractor spring replacement for the use with those type extractors. The extractor on my Remington MLR is not operating in continous function manner, it releases the case to soon and the ejector can not eject the case from the action and the case just lays on top of the magazine. This does not happen all of the time so that tells me the spring for the extractor is getting ready to give up the ghost. Remington put to soft a extractor spring in when they manufactured the rifle in the first place. I have seen this happen before on the AR platform and I was wondering if there was a better fix so that is where the intial question came from on my first post.
 
Apples and oranges.

High durometer rubber thingy in an M4 is because of more violent bolt timing as a result of the shorter carbine barrel. The gas system gets hit with a pulse that has more snort. This means that the case is being yanked out sooner and depending on load/ambient conditions it can lead to failures to xtract.

-straight from the Colt Engineers mouth that lectured the class I attended back in 06.


You can't run a bolt gun quick enough to replicate this condition.

What you have is a geometry issue. Shell pressure won't fix it. Salo extractors in bolt guns are sensitive to the distance from center "height" position. Too little and they can over extend and stick past the bolt body periphery and lock up due to the rebated breech ring and/or fail to lip over the rim and lock up. Too much and they run lazy as it can't rotate enough to purchase the rim. The fulcrum location being is such close relation to the spring position means little she'll pressure. Compound this with a factory bolt ejector position and it's virtually exactly what you describing.

unreliable service...

didn't solve your dilema, but least now you know why.

good luck

C.


ps. Whoever wrote the update for my Galaxy Note II needs to have their fingernails pulled out!
 
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Well I did a tear down on my bolt and guess what I found? A rough burr or metal shaving that was hanging up the ejector. It was not the extractor, works like it is suppose to now, I should have done a complete tear town on it when I purchased it new but I did not. I removed the firing pin and spring to get the packing grease out of the bolt assembly and stopped there, oh well you learn something new every day.
 
never over look the ejector spring most of the time they are to heavy, slam brass to the side to hard an pop it off the bolt or throw it 15' away.
 
Thanks for the info guys, something to put in the toolbox when things start heading south.
 
never over look the ejector spring most of the time they are to heavy, slam brass to the side to hard an pop it off the bolt or throw it 15' away.

Good point on the ejector spring. When they are "just right" you won't need to go searching. My rifle actually drops fired brass in the lid of my plastic ammo box when ejected, more times than not. Now if I could just adjust it so it would drop them in nose down :) :).

I'm using an M-16 style extractor in a PTG bolt. I notice right off that the extractor needed some "stone work" in order to match the radius of .308 Win cases. Fixed that and it's a fantastic extractor. Well, actually, ANYTHING is better than the Remington spring clips.