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New 6mm Advanced Rifle Cartridge

This is true, more info needed. That said, I've seen large pressure spikes myself, including hard extraction and one blown primer with factory ammo on my bolt gun.

It took a while but I was able to trace it. My bolt gun has a tight chamber, which makes me believe that this could be common in the 6 ARC. It's a high performance cartridge for its size and was designed that way.

In my case the cause was that any little bit of oil or cleaning fluids left in the chamber caused the spikes. It doesn't take much at all. I now mop my chamber with 91 percent alcohol when I'm done with cleaning. No issues after that.

That's interesting.

I will say that if I was going to use load data from another cartridge as a starting point for the ARC it would not be the 6mm BR. It would be the PPC.

If memory serves, the PPC has about half a grain less capacity than the ARC (which makes sense, considering they share the same parent case, case head diameter, and projectile caliber). As such, PPC starting loads should work great as a starting point for the ARC. Since the PPC is a bolt gun cartridge, max published loads will likely be too hot for a gas gun running 6 ARC (but you do mention loading for a bolt gun).

I think the 6mm BR holds about 4 grains more powder than a 6mm ARC case, and personally I would avoid using BR load data in an ARC. I wouldn't think that published pressure for a 6 BR load would tell you much about that same powder charge in an ARC, other than that the ARC will almost certainly be running at a higher pressure than the BR.
 
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That's interesting.

I will say that if I was going to use load data from another cartridge as a starting point for the ARC it would not be the 6mm BR. It would be the PPC.

If memory serves, the PPC has about half a grain less capacity than the ARC (which makes sense, considering they share the same parent case, case head diameter, and projectile caliber). As such, PPC starting loads should work great as a starting point for the ARC. Since the PPC is a bolt gun cartridge, max published loads will likely be too hot for a gas gun running 6 ARC (but you do mention loading for a bolt gun).

I think the 6mm BR holds about 4 grains more powder than a 6mm ARC case, and personally I would avoid using BR load data in an ARC. I wouldn't think that published pressure for a 6 BR load would tell you much about that same powder charge in an ARC, other than that the ARC will almost certainly be running at a higher pressure than the BR.
N540 should be fine starting at minimums - like we always should. I doubt seriously that the BR would hold 4 more grains. The cases are just too close in spec.

SAAMI does not have the 6mm BR Norma so I've attached the C.I.P. (European) cartridge drawings for both the 6 ARC and the 6 BR Norma so you can see that apples to apples. It's in mm though. For example, the powder chamber of the BR is 0.75mm wider, but the 6 ARC powder chamber is 1.17mm taller. They are that close.

As for N540, if you read the link I posted you can see that these 500 series powders are similar to the Superformance powders used by Hornady. You might have missed that in their description....

"Vihtavuori N540 delivers outstanding accuracy with exceptionally clean burning. Due to the extra energy content that all of our N500 series powders include, a velocity up to 30-40 m/s higher can be achieved with the same pressure level compared to the equal in the N100 Vihtavuori series. It is certainly worth trying when using heavier bullets and when higher loading densities and muzzle velocities are needed!"

Finally, in the same N540 link I posted, all the way down the page they have all the cartridges that have been tested. They include the Valkyrie and the Grendel...

The 6 PPC is less comparable only because the loads offered are for lighter bullets only....

The main advantage of the 6 BR is Lapua factory ammo and brass.

The C.I.P. cartridge drawings are below, they include pressures as well.
 

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N540 should be fine starting at minimums - like we always should. I doubt seriously that the BR would hold 4 more grains. The cases are just too close in spec.

SAAMI does not have the 6mm BR Norma so I've attached the C.I.P. (European) cartridge drawings for both the 6 ARC and the 6 BR Norma so you can see that apples to apples. It's in mm though. For example, the powder chamber of the BR is 0.75mm wider, but the 6 ARC powder chamber is 1.17mm taller. They are that close.

As for N540, if you read the link I posted you can see that these 500 series powders are similar to the Superformance powders used by Hornady. You might have missed that in their description....

"Vihtavuori N540 delivers outstanding accuracy with exceptionally clean burning. Due to the extra energy content that all of our N500 series powders include, a velocity up to 30-40 m/s higher can be achieved with the same pressure level compared to the equal in the N100 Vihtavuori series. It is certainly worth trying when using heavier bullets and when higher loading densities and muzzle velocities are needed!"

Finally, in the same N540 link I posted, all the way down the page they have all the cartridges that have been tested. They include the Valkyrie and the Grendel...

The 6 PPC is less comparable only because the loads offered are for lighter bullets only....

The main advantage of the 6 BR is Lapua factory ammo and brass.

The C.I.P. cartridge drawings are below, they include pressures as well.

Well, I happen to have both of those cartridges on hand, so I took some measurements (case, projectile, and cartridge length, plus actual fired case volume in gr of H2O) and plugged them into Gordon's Reloading Tool.

6mm BR, Lapua fired case:
Case length - 1.555"​
Measured case Volume - 38.7 gr H2O​
6mm ARC, Hornady fired case (once fired factory brass, fired in a Proof AR15 barrel):
Case length - 1.481"​
Measured case volume - 34.4 gr H2O​


Using my current lot of 108 ELD-M bullets, I get a measured projectile length of 1.262."

6mm BR:
Seating this bullet to where the top of the boat tail is even with the bottom of the case neck, I get:​
Cartridge length - 2.380" (or 60.45mm, which is 1.55mm shorter than 62mm COAL from the CIP diagram you provided).​
Effective case volume per GRT - 34.05 gr H2O​
6mm ARC:
Using the CIP cartridge diagram you provided (which btw is 3 thou longer than the factory Hornady 108 ammo I have on hand) I get:​
Cartridge length - 2.256"​
Effective case volume per GRT - 29.23 gr H2O (4.82 gr less than the BR, or 14.16%)​


Taking it a step further and asking GRT to run Vihtavuori's 27gr starting charge of N540 for the BR (notably for a 105gr Lapua Scenar, not a 108 ELD) in each model (specifying a 26" barrel), it gives the following outputs:
6mm BR (84.2% load ratio):
2577 fps with a max pressure of 42112 psi​
6mm ARC (98.2% load ratio):
2739 fps with a max pressure of 57561 psi (still within safe pressure for a bolt gun, but well above the point of damaging a gasser)​


Admittedly these are models, and each would need to be trued to a specific rifle to give the best possible estimates, but I think they illustrate the point I was trying to make about the difference between the two cartridges.

The BR starts with a 12% larger case capacity and is generally loaded longer (how much so depending on the bearing surface of a given bullet) when compared to CIP spec 6mm ARC ammunition. The 108 ELD is stuffed down into a 6 ARC case to the point where the boattail is sitting below the case shoulder. If the BR model I used was loaded out to CIP length the difference between the two would be even greater. Also, using a 6ARC case fired in a tight bolt gun chamber might slightly decrease fired case volume and further increase the difference in pressure between the two cartridges.

So what you plan to do with your bolt gun is probably fine, but BR starting loads are not apples-to-apples equivalents to starting loads for the 6ARC, even in a bolt gun.

Moreover, the majority of people loading for this cartridge are doing so in ARs. For them, the ARC and the BR are absolutely not apples-to-apples, and assuming such would likely result in someone using a "starting load" that is already above maximum "gas gun" pressure.
 
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My brass shipped arrived a few days ago, it looks great!
No more conversions!
They will be loaded with 105 VLDs.
Have a great week - spew the pew...
brassNew.jpg
 
just wondering, would a 308 muzzle brake, e.g. Precision Armament M4-72, still be effective on a 6ARC? or is the hole too big.
would I be better off with a VG6 Gamma 65 (6.5CM) brake? 20" barrel, threaded 5/8-24.

These are what I have to use, also have a Area 419 Hellfire Match specific to 6mm, but that's just too honkin' big-ass big, defeats the purpose of the smaller platform. I do want to keep my scope on target after the shot, for quick follow-up shots, a main benefit of the semi-auto platform. just for range fun.

I know the M4-72 is more effective than the VG6, but wondering about 7.62mm hole vs 6.5mm hole vs 6mm hole, I know the brake exit diameters are bigger, just using those numbers as nominal diameters. I'm sure the Hellfire Match is very effective, just too damn big.
 
just wondering, would a 308 muzzle brake, e.g. Precision Armament M4-72, still be effective on a 6ARC? or is the hole too big.
would I be better off with a VG6 Gamma 65 (6.5CM) brake? 20" barrel, threaded 5/8-24.

These are what I have to use, also have a Area 419 Hellfire Match specific to 6mm, but that's just too honkin' big-ass big, defeats the purpose of the smaller platform. I do want to keep my scope on target after the shot, for quick follow-up shots, a main benefit of the semi-auto platform. just for range fun.

I know the M4-72 is more effective than the VG6, but wondering about 7.62mm hole vs 6.5mm hole vs 6mm hole, I know the brake exit diameters are bigger, just using those numbers as nominal diameters. I'm sure the Hellfire Match is very effective, just too damn big.
I’d guess the gamma, but if you have both might as well try both.
 
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just wondering, would a 308 muzzle brake, e.g. Precision Armament M4-72, still be effective on a 6ARC? or is the hole too big.
would I be better off with a VG6 Gamma 65 (6.5CM) brake? 20" barrel, threaded 5/8-24.
My money is on the M4-72. There has been some scientific testing by brake manufacturers on the effect of bore vs. bullet size, and it does make a performance difference but it is very small as long as we aren't talking wildly different sizes, like a .224 bullet through a .50 bore.
On top of that, the Gamma is a pretty weak brake compared to the M4-72.
 
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just wondering, would a 308 muzzle brake, e.g. Precision Armament M4-72, still be effective on a 6ARC? or is the hole too big.
would I be better off with a VG6 Gamma 65 (6.5CM) brake? 20" barrel, threaded 5/8-24.

These are what I have to use, also have a Area 419 Hellfire Match specific to 6mm, but that's just too honkin' big-ass big, defeats the purpose of the smaller platform. I do want to keep my scope on target after the shot, for quick follow-up shots, a main benefit of the semi-auto platform. just for range fun.

I know the M4-72 is more effective than the VG6, but wondering about 7.62mm hole vs 6.5mm hole vs 6mm hole, I know the brake exit diameters are bigger, just using those numbers as nominal diameters. I'm sure the Hellfire Match is very effective, just too damn big.
FWIW, when testing my 6ARC gasser I ran it sans brake and then with the VG6 6.5 GAMMA brake and there was a significant difference. Sans the brake it jumped around alot on the bench. With the brake, the spotter dot on target remained in the view during the recoil and settled back on POI at end of recoil impulse. YMMV
 
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I’d guess the gamma, but if you have both might as well try both.

My money is on the M4-72. There has been some scientific testing by brake manufacturers on the effect of bore vs. bullet size, and it does make a performance difference but it is very small as long as we aren't talking wildly different sizes, like a .224 bullet through a .50 bore.
On top of that, the Gamma is a pretty weak brake compared to the M4-72.

FWIW, when testing my 6ARC gasser I ran it sans brake and then with the VG6 6.5 GAMMA brake and there was a significant difference. Sans the brake it jumped around alot on the bench. With the brake, the spotter dot on target remained in the view during the recoil and settled back on POI at end of recoil impulse. YMMV
yeah, I'm inclined to try it out with the M4-72 for starters, and if that seems too jumpy, then give the VG6 Gamma 65 a try. I'll probably end up trying them both anyways, just to find out, otherwise, "I'll never know". In the name of science...

thanks all.
 
yeah, I'm inclined to try it out with the M4-72 for starters, and if that seems too jumpy, then give the VG6 Gamma 65 a try. I'll probably end up trying them both anyways, just to find out, otherwise, "I'll never know". In the name of science...

thanks all.
M4-72 will be most effective. Double up on the ear pro though!
FWIW I run a PA Hypertap on mine. Really like them.
 
I run a V6 Gamma and can watch hits appear on steel at 600 16x. No experience with the other brake.

I loaded every 6mm bullet I had this past weekend. I did find the inside burr on the starlines to be somewhat notchy. I smoothed out the insed with KM tool and the outside champher with std lyman tool. then ran the 6mm Mandrel die through them and primed and loaded. Hundreds of 105VLDs and BTTs and I still have hundreds of new cases left to load. Now on to 6.5CM.
spew the pew!
 
This is my first AR15!! 🙃 I did a lot of research on uppers/lowers/glass etc. And I ended up with these parts. I’m a pistol guy normally, so I’m just getting in to the rifle world.

I went after the best AR15 caliber available today without going with AR10 size and weight (Seems the 6 arc is easily the most ballistically capable bullet in this smaller package) and second thing I wanted was the clearest German glass on a LPVO I could afford.

CMMG 6MM ARC upper 20” $426
Palmetto Stealth lower with polished trigger $191
Steiner M8Xi 1-8 optic $1,709
Reptilia 34MM mount black $243
(2) Duramag’s 6.5G (26rd) $48

Prices include tax. Ready to zero it in!
 

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tps344,

Congrats on the new rifle.

Also, congrats on having the wisdom to buy good glass right from the start. I’ve seen folks buy an expensive rifle and put junk glass on it.
 
This is my first AR15!! 🙃 I did a lot of research on uppers/lowers/glass etc. And I ended up with these parts. I’m a pistol guy normally, so I’m just getting in to the rifle world.

I went after the best AR15 caliber available today without going with AR10 size and weight (Seems the 6 arc is easily the most ballistically capable bullet in this smaller package) and second thing I wanted was the clearest German glass on a LPVO I could afford.

CMMG 6MM ARC upper 20” $426
Palmetto Stealth lower with polished trigger $191
Steiner M8Xi 1-8 optic $1,709
Reptilia 34MM mount black $243
(2) Duramag’s 6.5G (26rd) $48

Prices include tax. Ready to zero it in!
Nice. You may find that you are “under-glassed” with just 8x on the top end, depending on what you want to do with it. If that’s the case, I’d suggest buy a 5.56 upper (or whole rifle) and putting it on there, and then getting a higher mag scope for the 6ARC upper.
 
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tps344,

Congrats on the new rifle.

Also, congrats on having the wisdom to buy good glass right from the start. I’ve seen folks buy an expensive rifle and put junk glass on it.

Hey yes this is my first time ever buying a scope for a rifle. I do admit, I loved researching high end glass and reading about them from time to time. So the idea of budgeting more on my scope than the actual gun has been in my mind for a little bit now.
 
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Nice. You may find that you are “under-glassed” with just 8x on the top end, depending on what you want to do with it. If that’s the case, I’d suggest buy a 5.56 upper (or whole rifle) and putting it on there, and then getting a higher mag scope for the 6ARC upper.

Honestly, I had this idea of putting together a DMR type rifle that was very capable up close with 1X magnification, but also being able to hit targets at up to 800 meters tops. I probably won’t even shoot that far. Being totally honest here, I’m very new to rifle shooting. So I’m not even certain of what I really like just yet. I just kind of bought and assembled these items based on the studied ideas that I loved the most and what would probably work for the type of shooting I wanted to do in my own mind lol.

I considered finally getting in to hunting and thought the 6 arc would definitely be acceptable for this. I really didn’t want a ton of magnification going in to the woods, but it would also be solid during target shooting at 25-500 meters. And if I had the skill to shoot further it could be possible.

I did consider going with 5.56, but then I knew if I did that, I would only shoot something like a 77Gr or higher quality more accurate .223 bullet. So then I may as well spend a little more and get a 6 arc which seems to be about $1.12 per shot for the cheaper Hornady black loading. But this is more or less gonna be a target shooting/hunting gun. The ammo isn’t crazy expensive, but not exactly cheap either.
 
6ARC has turned out to be a really interesting intermediate option for precision. Some would say it nicely bridges the gap between 5.56mm & 7.62mm while staying within a small frame rifle. But from what I've experienced so far it's exceeding what I've traditionally done with a 7.62mm gas gun. With 110 A-Tips at 2725fps I'm supersonic to 1500 yards still, which is quite a bit more than my best 7.62mm load.

Granted, I went overboard with mine by using a 26" barrel...

1692293251567.png
 
I went to the range and zero’d my gun in for 100 yards, then started ringing steel quickly and easily. Not a single malfunction observed!! I was anticipating some sort of stoppages, but it never came. This was my first time ever shooting the rifle being a CMMG 6 arc upper and Palmetto lower. I’m using 6.5 Grendel mags (Duramag’s) 26rd. And it was butter smooth the entire trip. One of my bullets had a red polymer tip taken off. But that was the only bullet this happen to, but the weapon kept on chugging without any malfunctions, I had ejected that one round a few times making the weapon safe, which I think is what caused the red tip to fall off. I was extremely surprised how reliable the gun was.

Anyways, it’s dead on at 100 yards, and reliable so far. Being reliable is a pretty big deal. I had some serious concerns over it being reliable, but now my mind can rest a little.



 
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6ARC has turned out to be a really interesting intermediate option for precision. Some would say it nicely bridges the gap between 5.56mm & 7.62mm while staying within a small frame rifle. But from what I've experienced so far it's exceeding what I've traditionally done with a 7.62mm gas gun. With 110 A-Tips at 2725fps I'm supersonic to 1500 yards still, which is quite a bit more than my best 7.62mm load.

Granted, I went overboard with mine by using a 26" barrel...

View attachment 8206864

That is really amazing performance with a 110Gr bullet on a gas gun. I’m saving all of my brass so I can begin to reload my self. But I’ve never reloaded before.

Also, that gun has to be really pleasant to shoot with this long 26” barrel and being suppressed like that. It’s like an old school black powder length gun lol. Not gonna lie I wanted the longest barrel I could afford. I was after a 22-24” but ended up with 20” which I guess its really the minimum I’d want in this caliber.
 
That is really amazing performance with a 110Gr bullet on a gas gun. I’m saving all of my brass so I can begin to reload my self. But I’ve never reloaded before.
I've been told that 6ARC is finicky to load for, but I haven't tried it yet. Kinda stuck on .223 right now, but have a 6.5 manbun Tikka I've been contemplating turning into something 6mm. Since the bolt's already 6BR size, that's the easy way but I've been 6ARC curios...

If someone is in the DC area (Manassas ish) and wants to try some N540 I've got some.

M
 
Also, that gun has to be really pleasant to shoot with this long 26” barrel and being suppressed like that. It’s like an old school black powder length gun lol. Not gonna lie I wanted the longest barrel I could afford. I was after a 22-24” but ended up with 20” which I guess its really the minimum I’d want in this caliber.
It's incredibly soft shooting - feels like a 5.56mm, shoots like a 6mm Creedmoor that rides the short bus. I have no idea how long the barrel will last, but when it's time to replace it, I'm going with 20" instead.
 
I went back to the range today. I’m really hooked What can I say. I will also say this, ammo goes too dang fast with this 6MM ARC gas gun.


I did 5 shots here at 100 yards exactly. Maybe like 1.25” if I had not have pulled the one shot, this would have been a single ragged hole with all shots touching. But the accuracy is getting better and better the more I learn!!! I’m able to actually stack up some bullet holes now.

I am a terrible marksman. The stock is very wobbly. I can get good stability at the front with the gun, but at the rear not so well because I can see and feel the movement on target due to using a cheap carbine stock here.

NOT A SINGLE MALFUNCTION. With 120+ rounds through. Using the (26Rd) Duramag’s loaded to (20) rounds everytime.

Shooting is hard. It takes practice and serious skill. I’m getting a little better though.

 
I bought several boxes of Copper Creek Cartridge Company’s loads with the 95gr LRX and 80gr TTSX bullets.


Results for my 18” Odin barrel

95gr LRX. (Advertised 2850 fps from 18” barrel)
Average 2408 fps with a SD of 4.0
100 yard group size- .6, 1.1, 1.6, 1.75


80gr TTSX. (Advertised 3000 fps from 18” barrel)
Average 2562 fps with a SD of 20.8
100 yard group size- 1.35, 1.1, 1.5

For comparison, the Hornady 103 gr ELD-x gives me 2645 fps with groups of .53 and .88.



Results for my 12”Monster barrel

95gr LRX
Average 2172 fps with SD of 7.6
100 yard groups size- 2, 2.5


80gr TTSX
Average 2439 with SD of 16.9
100 yard group size- 1.73, 1.3, 1.9

For comparison, the Hornady 103 ELD-x gives me 2344 fps with groups about 1.3


I can accept some difference in velocity from what is advertised, but nearly 450 fps difference with each load?
 
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I bought several boxes of Copper Creek Cartridge Company’s loads with the 95gr LRX and 80gr TTSX bullets.


Results for my 18” Odin barrel

95gr LRX. (Advertised 2850 fps from 18” barrel)
Average 2408 fps with a SD of 4.0
100 yard group size- .6, 1.1, 1.6, 1.75


80gr TTSX. (Advertised 3000 fps from 18” barrel)
Average 2562 fps with a SD of 20.8
100 yard group size- 1.35, 1.1, 1.5

For comparison, the Hornady 103 gr ELD-x gives me 2645 fps with groups of .53 and .88.



Results for my 12”Monster barrel

95gr LRX
Average 2172 fps with SD of 7.6
100 yard groups size- 2, 2.5


80gr TTSX
Average 2439 with SD of 16.9
100 yard group size- 1.73, 1.3, 1.9

For comparison, the Hornady 103 ELD-x gives me 2344 fps with groups about 1.3


I can accept some difference in velocity from what is advertised, but nearly 450 fps difference with each load?
That seems like really really slow for such a light bullet 80 and 95 grain. Honestly, I’ve been just using the factory stuff 103/105/108. I would like to try some of the 6 ARC Hornady TAP stuff that has that 0.580BC. I heard it doesn’t group well in some barrels though. I think it’s a 106Gr.
 
That seems like really really slow for such a light bullet 80 and 95 grain. Honestly, I’ve been just using the factory stuff 103/105/108. I would like to try some of the 6 ARC Hornady TAP stuff that has that 0.580BC. I heard it doesn’t group well in some barrels though. I think it’s a 106Gr.
Agreed. I’m around 2600 on 108s in an 18”
 
That seems like really really slow for such a light bullet 80 and 95 grain. Honestly, I’ve been just using the factory stuff 103/105/108. I would like to try some of the 6 ARC Hornady TAP stuff that has that 0.580BC. I heard it doesn’t group well in some barrels though. I think it’s a 106Gr.
Yeah, I was largely disappointed. I had hoped the loads would be making good speed since speed is needed with the Barnes bullets. And I hoped their ‘precision handloaded’ ammo’s precision would be there with the mass-loaded Hornady factory stuff. With the exception of the 106gr TAP (see below) all Hornady loads are boringly consistent at giving sub-moa at 100 yds out of my 18” Odin and 1.25 to 2.25 out of my 12” Monster barrel.

Still, for whitetail with my longest ever shot being 108 yards, either of the Copper Creek loads would be sufficient. I had just hoped for better speed and precision.

I’ve shot a good bit of the TAP load. Like many LE-type loads the bullet seems designed with terminal performance primary and precision secondary. If I recall correctly, the TAP shoots 1.5 to 1.75 moa at 100 yds out of my 18” Odin at about 2610 fps. This is fine for a patrol rifle-type use. I get about 2340 fps out of my 12” Monster barrel with groups in the 1.5” to 2.25” range at 100 yds.

If you’re LE or Mil, or know someone who is, Mile High as the TAP in stock. I don’t understand restricting it to us LE/Mil folks. Civilian home/self defense use has the same needs and importance as my duty-use needs.
 
Yeah, I was largely disappointed. I had hoped the loads would be making good speed since speed is needed with the Barnes bullets. And I hoped their ‘precision handloaded’ ammo’s precision would be there with the mass-loaded Hornady factory stuff. With the exception of the 106gr TAP (see below) all Hornady loads are boringly consistent at giving sub-moa at 100 yds out of my 18” Odin and 1.25 to 2.25 out of my 12” Monster barrel.

Still, for whitetail with my longest ever shot being 108 yards, either of the Copper Creek loads would be sufficient. I had just hoped for better speed and precision.

I’ve shot a good bit of the TAP load. Like many LE-type loads the bullet seems designed with terminal performance primary and precision secondary. If I recall correctly, the TAP shoots 1.5 to 1.75 moa at 100 yds out of my 18” Odin at about 2610 fps. This is fine for a patrol rifle-type use. I get about 2340 fps out of my 12” Monster barrel with groups in the 1.5” to 2.25” range at 100 yds.

If you’re LE or Mil, or know someone who is, Mile High as the TAP in stock. I don’t understand restricting it to us LE/Mil folks. Civilian home/self defense use has the same needs and importance as my duty-use needs.
18” Shaw
3/21/23
60F 20% 30.34 in

Hornady 106 gr TAP
2593, 2615, 2636, 2621,
2621, 2589, 2625, 2584 SD 18.2
1.25”
 
Okay, I’m researching and looking to start reloading 6MM ARC. I have been saving all of my brass since the beginning. I’m on an extreme budget though since I’m married and just recently setting up my rifle and optic etc.

I’m considering the RCBS AR series (2) die set for 6MM ARC, and maybe (2) of the Hornady hand loaders for $100 bucks (Don’t laugh at me) lol. Good digital scale, digital calipers. And a few other odds and ends that may be needed for case debur and stuff like that.

^ Any fault or thoughts with this setup?
 
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Okay, I’m researching and looking to start reloading 6MM ARC. I have been saving all of my brass since the beginning. I’m on an extreme budget though since I’m married and just recently setting up my rifle and optic etc.

I’m considering the RCBS AR series (2) die set for 6MM ARC, and maybe (2) of the Hornady hand loaders for $100 bucks (Don’t laugh at me) lol. Good digital scale, digital calipers. And a few other odds and ends that may be needed for case debur and stuff like that.

^ Any fault or thoughts with this setup?
I’m gonna post up a heavily discounted package deal tomorrow for reloading that will help you out. It will include many accessories but not a press or dies. Critical components such as scale, trickler, case trimmer and prep kit etc. You need to pay the $20 to buy in the PX though if you’re interested. I’ll send you the add to nice I post it. 🍻
 
Okay, I’m researching and looking to start reloading 6MM ARC. I have been saving all of my brass since the beginning. I’m on an extreme budget though since I’m married and just recently setting up my rifle and optic etc.

I’m considering the RCBS AR series (2) die set for 6MM ARC, and maybe (2) of the Hornady hand loaders for $100 bucks (Don’t laugh at me) lol. Good digital scale, digital calipers. And a few other odds and ends that may be needed for case debur and stuff like that.

^ Any fault or thoughts with this setup?
I will recommend using the Hornady Match Grade 6mm ARC dies, and a Short Action Customs bushing. If you're using Hornady brass, a .266" diameter bushing. I'm using this setup with excellent results.

Here's a list of things that will get you started in the right direction... This is based off of my experiences with buying things that were useful, and some that were unnecessary. Here's the basics of entry-level necessities to produce quality ammo, IMO.

 
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I will recommend using the Hornady Match Grade 6mm ARC dies, and a Short Action Customs bushing. If you're using Hornady brass, a .266" diameter bushing. I'm using this setup with excellent results.

Here's a list of things that will get you started in the right direction... This is based off of my experiences with buying things that were useful, and some that were unnecessary. Here's the basics of entry-level necessities to produce quality ammo, IMO.

Pretty cool of you take the time to post this
 
Anyone have a good bang for the buck annealer that they like?

I built one of these. If you're not up for that, I've heard pretty good things about the Ugly Annealer on Amazon.
 
I will recommend using the Hornady Match Grade 6mm ARC dies, and a Short Action Customs bushing. If you're using Hornady brass, a .266" diameter bushing. I'm using this setup with excellent results.

The .266 giving you .003 neck tension? For a semi or bolt? I measured mine and my loaded Hornady ammo is .269 area. I used a .268 bushing I had as my .267 was in my other die and it felt pretty good when seating the dummy round I made.

And I am using those same Hornady dies and they are nice. A decent set to get you rolling in loading for not much and will still load good ammo is the Hornady Lock N Load kit. You will have to add some other smaller tools but it gets you going.


Or this one.

 
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The .266 giving you .003 neck tension? For a semi or bolt? I measured mine and my loaded Hornady ammo is .269 area. I used a .268 bushing I had as my .267 was in my other die and it felt pretty good when seating the dummy round I made.

And I am using those same Hornady dies and they are nice.
Yes, 0.003” neck tension. I use that in my MPR bolt gun. I don’t have a 6ARC AR.

Yeah, they're actually a pretty nice set of dies. They load straight ammo, and are extremely consistent. The SAC bushing is tapered, and creates a solid seal at the base of the neck. It’s a genius design, and works really well. 👍🏼
 
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Yes, 0.003” neck tension. I use that in my MPR bolt gun. I don’t have a 6ARC AR.

Yeah, they're actually a pretty nice set of dies. They load straight ammo, and are extremely consistent. The SAC bushing is tapered, and creates a solid seal at the base of the neck. It’s a genius design, and works really well. 👍🏼

Thanks for all the help! I am definitely taking advice from your list, I may just get it over with and buy a nice powder trickling scale right out of the gate. I had read the RCBS 6MM ARC dies were the best for AR’s because they provide a small base taper. Apparently many were having reliability issues and stuck cases using the Hornady dies inside of an AR type gun.
 
Thanks for all the help! I am definitely taking advice from your list, I may just get it over with and buy a nice powder trickling scale right out of the gate. I had read the RCBS 6MM ARC dies were the best for AR’s because they provide a small base taper. Apparently many were having reliability issues and stuck cases using the Hornady dies inside of an AR type gun.
If you get any auto powder measure (Regardless of brand), be sure to let it warm up for a good 15-30 minutes, and then calibrate it, and zero it, before each use. 👍🏼

A lot of folks don’t realize this, and it can start throwing out some random wonky charges every now and then, which can be dangerous. So be sure to warm it up and calibrate it before each use.

Also, I use regular RCBS 6.5 Grendel dies in my AR and it does just fine. Small base dies are really only necessary if you have an out of spec chamber, or are using random range pickup brass from some other guns. Otherwise, regular full-length size SAAMI spec dies should be just fine.
 
I still use the Hornady powder thrower and a hand trickler and a beam scale. After too many issues with electronic scales I packed them up and went old school.
 
Thanks for all the help! I am definitely taking advice from your list, I may just get it over with and buy a nice powder trickling scale right out of the gate. I had read the RCBS 6MM ARC dies were the best for AR’s because they provide a small base taper. Apparently many were having reliability issues and stuck cases using the Hornady dies inside of an AR type gun.
AutoTrickler V4 and Fx-120i scale.
 

Its been a while since I've shot the 6ARC. I saved it for last. This day was a long time coming. I had just got my Edlebrock Double Pumper tuned for the '78 Bronco so I loaded up (most) everything and went to the local range. It was HOT, but that meant no waiting. I skipped taking the pokemon mile rifle and the 6.5CM because it was only 200yds. More on those later/diff threads. anyway...

FF to the end and watch how this 6ARC setup shoots. It barely moves, you can spot hits at 16x. The last mag was using the new Starline cases that shot great.

tps344 that is an amazing first build. You will love reloading! I can't believe you got a Stiener glass for a first scope, that is a steep hill to keep up with! Congrats and I've enjoyed catching up on this thread. Will post more when I get to a longer range. Until then Spew the Pew and Press or cry like the rest!
 
I did some more shooting today. Trying to learn how to shoot, and learn how to get better.

These groups are all at 100 yards, and in a seated at a bench shooting position.

5-6 shot groups.

6MM ARC Hornady ELD-X
6MM ARC Hornady Black

I feel like these groups are really bad for a 20” AR15, even for a new rifle shooter. But I may be wrong. 🙂

I am going to try prone shooting next time for best results. I always forget to bring stuff to shoot prone with.

GyttrMu.jpg

JIx9Itv.jpg

XbYg5n9.jpg

zKZbdje.jpg

GZNOITs.jpg

ALh2PE3.jpg
 
Lose that rear rest and get a bag. Much easier to adjust and use to shoot accurately.
 
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I did some more shooting today. Trying to learn how to shoot, and learn how to get better.

These groups are all at 100 yards, and in a seated at a bench shooting position.

5-6 shot groups.

6MM ARC Hornady ELD-X
6MM ARC Hornady Black

I feel like these groups are really bad for a 20” AR15, even for a new rifle shooter. But I may be wrong. 🙂

I am going to try prone shooting next time for best results. I always forget to bring stuff to shoot prone with.

GyttrMu.jpg

JIx9Itv.jpg

XbYg5n9.jpg

zKZbdje.jpg

GZNOITs.jpg

ALh2PE3.jpg
You don't have what would be considered a group shooting reticle. Like Rob says, a rear bag will help. Your barrel may just dislike that particular ammo. Barrel length has nothing to do with it. And most likely/importantly, if you're new to rifle shooting you've got a bit of a learning curve ahead of you.
 
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Agree with above. Keep practicing.

Not trying to be a one upper just showing what Hornady Black is capable of. Some barrels prefer different ammo as mentioned. Reloading helps for this reason.
Also, the more you shoot the better you’ll get obviously.
Ballistic-X-Export-2023-03-21 15:55:19.677738.jpg
 
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