Do any of you happen to own one of the very early, gen - 1, AT-X’s?
- Thread starter Lowlight
- Start date
Yes
Any issues with the barrel?
I have rarely been able to get mine to group. I’ve exhausted every possible avenue which has just been costly in monetary terms and time. After getting more professional advice I’ve returned it. My worry now is just how long it takes to get resolved.
Sorry to hear that man, I've never had a factory AI barrel that was a problem.
There are so many variables, some issues are a lot more sensitive than others. At the end of the day, everything should be assessed and overall - as an interested precision rifle shooter, everything is your fault.
Hand loads / factory ammo
Muzzle brake on / off
Cleaning style
Wind / environment
Optic quality
Torque specs adhered to
Personal shooting ability
Damage
Round count
Ammunition consistency
Accuracy expectations
etc.
Hopefully it comes back quickly and you can get down to business.
For my job I’m a full-time scientist/nerd so establishing base lines of data is imperative to me. For an added kick in the balls for me, I was also the son of an aerospace engineer so making compromises has never been acceptable in data.
Factory ammo only - Hornady ELD Match, 140gr mostly from different batches. Also tried 120gr and Sako 136gr TRG
I tried to muzzle break after having no joy without one
Cleaning style as per instructions, all of my kit is Bore Tech
I shoot at the same rifle range every Sunday with the opportunity shoot at 100, 200 and 300 yards. Mostly I shot at 100 yards. Trying to get some accurate data. Also tried it in a tunnel too
Torque settings adhered to, fix it sticks with all the relevant torque bits
I’ve had coaching from some of the big industry celebrities. And had some of them try it too.
No damage that I’m aware off certainly nothing while he has been in my possession from new.
Round count I think is up around about 400+ rounds?
I appreciate consistency of ammunition is only as good as what they do at Hornady and Sako
My expectations on accuracy, or based upon one MOA at 100 yards. I’ve not consistently achieved that. Personally, I was hoping that it would shoot better than my Tikka Tac did. I haven’t even got similar yet… Let alone better.
I’m not attaching any emotion to this. And until the weekend I hadn’t even considered returning it. A professional with over 30 years shooting experience recommended that I do because things didn’t seem normal to him.
It happens, we aren’t in a perfect world, and even if you’re spending £5000 a rifle it doesn’t mean to say that every now and then there isn’t a blip.
All I hope is that I get quick resolution, as it’s mid season…
Factory ammo only - Hornady ELD Match, 140gr mostly from different batches. Also tried 120gr and Sako 136gr TRG
I tried to muzzle break after having no joy without one
Cleaning style as per instructions, all of my kit is Bore Tech
I shoot at the same rifle range every Sunday with the opportunity shoot at 100, 200 and 300 yards. Mostly I shot at 100 yards. Trying to get some accurate data. Also tried it in a tunnel too
Torque settings adhered to, fix it sticks with all the relevant torque bits
I’ve had coaching from some of the big industry celebrities. And had some of them try it too.
No damage that I’m aware off certainly nothing while he has been in my possession from new.
Round count I think is up around about 400+ rounds?
I appreciate consistency of ammunition is only as good as what they do at Hornady and Sako
My expectations on accuracy, or based upon one MOA at 100 yards. I’ve not consistently achieved that. Personally, I was hoping that it would shoot better than my Tikka Tac did. I haven’t even got similar yet… Let alone better.
I’m not attaching any emotion to this. And until the weekend I hadn’t even considered returning it. A professional with over 30 years shooting experience recommended that I do because things didn’t seem normal to him.
It happens, we aren’t in a perfect world, and even if you’re spending £5000 a rifle it doesn’t mean to say that every now and then there isn’t a blip.
All I hope is that I get quick resolution, as it’s mid season…
Bad barrels do happen. Rare though
What scope and mount ?
I wouldn’t be happy till it’s around 1/2” for 5
What scope and mount ?
I wouldn’t be happy till it’s around 1/2” for 5
Scope is a vortex PST Gen 2, with Vortex mounts.
Hope you verified it’s not the warranty special
Head scratcher off the top....did you buy gun new?
1)take off the rear assembly and make sure (where the hinge would go) has all bolts torqued down correctly....this happened to me and a few others I know of, being loose.
2)Another thought is use a different scope and see what happens; could be scope internals, could be wobbly rail...etc.
3)Barrel is spun on hand tight then torqued to 49? brake/suppressor tight?
Shoot 3 groups of 5 (baseline rifle as is now, 1&3 done, 2 done) and post results maybe theres a shooting issue others can spot? from prone with bipod and rear bag. and a pic of gun perhaps just cuz!
1)take off the rear assembly and make sure (where the hinge would go) has all bolts torqued down correctly....this happened to me and a few others I know of, being loose.
2)Another thought is use a different scope and see what happens; could be scope internals, could be wobbly rail...etc.
3)Barrel is spun on hand tight then torqued to 49? brake/suppressor tight?
Shoot 3 groups of 5 (baseline rifle as is now, 1&3 done, 2 done) and post results maybe theres a shooting issue others can spot? from prone with bipod and rear bag. and a pic of gun perhaps just cuz!
Uh oh.
Years ago I had one of those (Gen 1 though) that totally ruined my load development efforts on a nice custom build. Things were going well then my groups started getting progressively bigger no matter what I tried, although I'd get the occasional nice group which further confused things. Then I noticed my zero was shifting from one day to the next. That's when the light came on - the scope was shifting POI with nearly every shot. It went from fine to totally crap between around 100-150 rounds since new. Definitely try another proven scope before sending the rifle back.
Mine just flat out shoots. Group is 8 rounds of factory hornady 140 grn match. Including cold bore.
What kind of mount are you running? Seems pretty tall.
Badger comm maxx 1.5 height
Seems I got a Gen 1 too. Barrel is total shit.
Doubt it
I was referring to the Vortex. What did you find out after they got it back? Will they replace it?
Hi Buddy,
Good news and bad news for me. It went back to AI and from what I can understand they couldn’t get it to group either. So therefore they changed the barrel for a new one. From my side I wasn’t overly impressed with the group from the new barrel either, so long story short I’m getting a new AI altogether.
I appreciate even the big companies like AI can have problems. From my side, the main thing is how a person or an organisation learns from something like this, puts something in place to make sure it doesn’t happen again and moves on with an appropriate solution.
I will keep you all posted on how I get on with the new one. One other thing I’m interested to know what everybody else did for the barrel breaking process. I was talking to a guy the other day and he just flat out confused me.
This actually has helped me change my mind I had talked myself out of the atx but it’s nice to see they stand behind their products it’s back on the want list .
This actually has helped me change my mind I had talked myself out of the atx but it’s nice to see they stand behind their products it’s back on the want list .
where did you get this done? I love itRockin my new Cerekote
What’s your rifle weigh the cf barrel?Rockin my new Cerekote
TBH, it’s heavy AF. I got the CF barrel for my AX and just rant the 6cm barrel on it while I waited for my 6 Dasher barrel.
I have full brass weights and full Wintac weights on it now too. My guess is 24lbs atleast.
I have full brass weights and full Wintac weights on it now too. My guess is 24lbs atleast.
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I’ve looked and can’t seem to find the info…..with the right scope and carbon fiber barrel has anyone used the AT-X in NRL Hunter?
In other words can you get it sub 16 pounds with carbon fiber barrel, bipod, scope and brake/can?
In other words can you get it sub 16 pounds with carbon fiber barrel, bipod, scope and brake/can?
Do you remember what scope they were using? Brake or can?
Hey thanks I appreciate that! Plus that’s a heavy scope and bipod. Should be plenty of room to make sub 16 with the ATX buttstock I would think.
I’ve got two custom rifles, one which I rarely shoot that is my “lightweight” setup. I’m considering selling both for an ATX to have one do all setup with quick change for barrel changes etc.
Thanks again!
So if you add back in a CF Proof around 3 lbs, you have almost 3 pounds to play with for bipod and can, right?
yeah I’d say that’s right. I weighed my 26” proof the other day at 3.1 pounds and my Leupold MK5 in spuhr is only around 40 ounces total, so maybe more than 3 pounds to play with.
What length is the barrel on bottom pic?Edit number 2 or 3. Since this is the official tacked thread.
Here’s an essential accessory :
Accuracy International Anti-Rotation QD Sling Mount for AX Model
The Anti-Rotation QD Sling Mount provides a secure, twist-free attachment point for push-button QD slings and accessories. It is compatible with all factory pre-14’ and post-14’ AX, AX338, AXMC, and AX-AICS forends.www.anarchyoutdoors.com
Hey! Where da hinges at ?
And can we get torque wrench’s to the factory ?
Awesome rifle otherwise let my terrible self win the barricade stage multiple times.
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Crap are these off color ^ ? I don’t need banned again. I have no chill.
Edit to add a wallet pick as ole @reubenski calls em
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Looking for a at-x hinge and no one seems to have one in stock. Europtic or mile high.
Anyone have one they are willing to part with?
Anyone have one they are willing to part with?
18.5”
Does anyone have an exploded view of the cheek riser mechanism? This is a part of my rifle that fell out at the range. It's a broken piece from the mechanism that grips the cheek riser post as the thumb screw is tightened.
I'd like to see the part diagram so I can describe it to Mile High tomorrow.
I'd like to see the part diagram so I can describe it to Mile High tomorrow.
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I figured, but the front chassis screw/bolt is one hard puppy to break loose. Suggestions so I don’t strip it out? Heat maybe or a lubricant?
Someone needs to be beaten knowing the chassis has to be taken apart to install the action…
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