I have a dumb question. Why are you removing the extractor?
- Thread starter jackinfl
- Start date
Because the included instructions are pretty emphatic about it for headspacing barrels. And because I'm used to taking everything apart on my guns to *know* how to put it back together when necessary.
That's what I ended up doing, since at that point I hadn't figured out how to get the bloody extractor out 
Lucky for you, you didn't put any money on that bet
For now that's all I'm going to say.
2950 FPS in a 6br will be way over pressure,my dasher does 2940fps with 32.3gr Varget 26”barrel.Being an efficient caliber there’s not a huge gain from 22” to say 26” I’m guessing about 15fps per inch.
People get it in the 2930 2950 range with 30.5-31 of varget all the time with a 28” barrel which is why don’t understand why people jump on the dasher bandwagon so quick. 2” more barrel is hardly even noticeable. If your loading that much I would say you have a slow barrel. I was at over 2900 during break in.
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Ray- is there a trigger you recommend?
I believe they recomend either the trigger tech diamond or timney Calvin elite
Is anyone stocking LH origins now?
Buddy's TT Diamond needs the cocking notch filed like 0.040"-0.050" to not cock on close with his Origin.
Triggertech & Jewell was the recommendation I received. Kinda wanted to stick with a 2-stage, though.
I have the TT Diamond how can you measure how much your removing? Just measer the cocking piece as you go or measure how much the pin sticks out of the rear of the bolt? I would assume the firing pin protrusion would be shorter if that makes sense...
I’m running Calvin Elites on two of them no problems no removing of metal
There is a post a few pages back where someone mentioned that the rear protrusion should be around .09 when it's in battery, I was getting .12 which was the .03 that had to remove.
Around post #531 is where that discussion starts...
Probably a long shot (hah) but does anyone have a close-up pic of the different bolt handles installed on bolts, in stocks? Trying to avoid having to go back through every single picture in the thread to tease out the info I'm looking for
You just used a file and took little by little off?
I’m having a small issue loading the first round on a fully loaded mag. Anyone run into this? Any ideas? I’m using a 10 round mdt metal mag in a mdt chassis.
Brand new magazines or broken in
Brand new
You might need "tune" the magazine ie. adjust the feed lips to smooth out the feeding. I still need to do my new mags I got from MDT but haven't gotten around to it yet
what's the easiest way to tune them? I've never done it before.
In my experience, I typically need to bend the front most portion of the lips slightly upwards/outwards. YMMV but mut mine would nose dive just a smidge and get hung up on either lip of mat or edge of feed ramp.
I’ll see if I can find it, otherwise the video of Frank and Brian shooting the 224v at 2k, the bolt gun they are using is an Origin. In the beginning you can see Brian closing the bolt with one or two fingers.
Yup
There is no way to know how your action will feel before you get it. Part of what I had really hoped for was that easy two finger bolt open/close when I ordered my Origin. I can say that mine fell a good ways short of that. Maybe it could be improved if I have it timed...
more than likely. ask anyone who has timed theirs so there is no cock on close
Mine also isn’t two finger close. I’m waiting for word from Bighorn when I can send it in and have them time it for me.
From what I've read on here guys are just removing material from the cocking piece. I think that's a bit of a band-aid as they're also shortening their pin fall. I'm also not sure if what mine is doing is cock-o -close. Mine only has 0.001" diffenece in pin protrusion from fully open and fully closed, BUT what it does is as I push the bolt forward it decocks slightly as the cocking piece and sear engage and then cocks the rest of the way as I close. If I close the bolt very fast it is much smoother than if I run it slowly. I know this is claimed to be an issue of stacking tolerances, but it does it with three triggers (Timney CE, TT Diamond, and whatever was in my Bergara). I've also not shot this gun yet so it may improve with a bit of breaking in.
I timed my actions and it's a hell of a lot better then it was previously, I'm not sure I'd call shortening the cocking piece a bandaid fit. It might not be the end all be all fix but it does reduce any cocking on close and if your worried about reduced firing pin travel you can adjust the protrusion of the firing pin.
Which bolt handle you have changes the feel too. I got the spiral on both because I wanted it to be the same between my hunting and Target rifle. In hindsight one of the two longer handles (a larger lever) would have probably smoothed things out a touch. Most of what I'd call resistance on mine is the cock on close. Opening is very smooth.
I think I have the tactical one, it's whatever came standard on them.
I hadn't realized you could adjust firing pin protrusion! So yeah, maybe not a bandaid afterall. I will likely send mine somewhere to get it timed.
Firing pin protrusion has a fairly narrow range of what's acceptable, especially compared to the amount that people are reportedly taking off the cocking piece. I don't think that counts as an acceptable 'fix' or remedy.
And it may not be, which is why I would likely not attempt this on my own, but rather leave it to a professional.
I contacted bighorn and they sell replacement cocking ramps for $25 worth the risk doing it on your own.
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What are you measuring to determine how much material you took off the cocking piece?
.005" protrusion of the firing pin sticking out the back?
How much firing pin fall do you have?
Thanks
EDIT: How much Firing Pin Fall should the Origin have? Thanks
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The Bighorn people stated in post 540 the FP protrusion out of the bolt shroud should be about .090" with the bolt open.
yes, i saw that. what i didn't follow was the post that i quoted. thanks
Well I threw a factory trigger in my action today to see if it will hold me over, the timing is pretty bad so I'll just wait till I get the right trigger...
On that topic, are there any triggers you guys have liked and was the timing right without a smith? The actions are all the same but is there much consitency between triggers? If im not understanding this right please let me know. My initial throughts are Timney CE or Trigher Tech.
On that topic, are there any triggers you guys have liked and was the timing right without a smith? The actions are all the same but is there much consitency between triggers? If im not understanding this right please let me know. My initial throughts are Timney CE or Trigher Tech.
Hard to beat TriggerTech, and I've had most every one on the market. I just swapped the 510 on my Origin for a Triggertech, it's money.
Has anyone had problems threading on a savage prefit barrel. I just got a prefit which my barrel nut spins on easy but the action feels like I need to muscle it on.
I just got my TT Primary in today. So I naturally put it on. The rifle isn’t assembled yet, so it’s just the action and trigger but I could feel a slight bump when the bolt started to lock up. Might just be me, who knows. I’ll see if I can’t rig up a way to get a short video or something of what I’m seeing/feeling.
Are you guys achieving desired pull weights? I like a 1.5-2lb trigger, which means I could probably get away with the primary and be happy. I know that when I stuck the bergara trigger on it gained a pound or so. Is this because of timing or firing pin spring strength?
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