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The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

MRADrange - 1.jpeg
 
Check out ARC's M-Brace as well. Personally like their clamp style better, little unnerving the first time you have to torque it down to the 55 in-lbs.
+1 if go this route if I didn't already get ARC rings , they launched the M Brace 2 weeks later..
 
+1 if go this route if I didn't already get ARC rings , they launched the M Brace 2 weeks later..
About the same here think it was a month or two for me. Sold off my old Scope and move those rings down to the 22LR and picked up the 30MOA M-Brace for the new scope.
 
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It’s not even close to better lol Ai is the most reliable trigger in the game, not to mention how crisp it is, I can’t see how the batter trigger is better when the Ai trigger is the most reliable trigger in the field. If I had to trust a trigger out in the field it’s Ai all day over the MRAD so I don’t see how the MRAD has a better trigger.
I have to Necro this thread because the trigger on my AXSR took a shit on me during the Nightforce ELR match this year. Wyoming moon dust killed it. I sure hope it isn't the most reliable trigger in the game. I was reading this thread because I'm looking into an MRAD to replace my AXSR due to trigger issues when things get dusty...
 
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I have to Necro this thread because the trigger on my AXSR took a shit on me during the Nightforce ELR match this year. Wyoming moon dust killed it. I sure hope it isn't the most reliable trigger in the game. I was reading this thread because I'm looking into an MRAD to replace my AXSR due to trigger issues when things get dusty...
Why not both?
 
Curious if any of you are running the MK22 suppressor?

I'm finding essentially zero info about it online.... curious how it mounts vs how the normal AM338 mounts? Looks like they both use the same threaded muzzle brake however the MK22 suppressor uses a latch of some sort.
 
Any one have a lead on a new 300NM barrel kit?

I've been looking to buy one all year with zero luck. There has to be one out there somewhere looking for a new home.
 
Has anyone ever pull a mag apart? I was wanting to take mine deer hunting this year but my state has a 6-round limit. So was thinking of 3D printing a limiter but can't seem to get the mag apart.
 
Has anyone ever pull a mag apart? I was wanting to take mine deer hunting this year but my state has a 6-round limit. So was thinking of 3D printing a limiter but can't seem to get the mag apart.
Yes. Its crazy difficult. I love how the manual says to pinch a spot on the side and slide the plate out after depressing the little button. Honestly i had to use a C clamp to pinch enough to get the damn thing to release.
 
Yes. Its crazy difficult. I love how the manual says to pinch a spot on the side and slide the plate out after depressing the little button. Honestly i had to use a C clamp to pinch enough to get the damn thing to release.
Thanks for the suggestion I've got a couple of clamps and give that a try. Did you limit your or pull it apart for another reason? Just wondering how you did limit it if you did.
 
Spent a hour and half at the range last weekend and couldn't figure out why I was getting 3 MOA groups until I was leaving. Turns out my scope mount was never tightened up and it was getting loose the entire time...
 
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I just blue Loctite all my tiny mount pieces. I don't want to ever have to go through that again. (like above) I had a couple of screws back out, just a hair. Just enough to drive me nuts. Finally, took everything apart, retorqued with Blue Loctite and my groups came back. GRRR, frustrating.
 
That shit is the worst. Had that happen in a match before.
I know. I thought I got a lemon cause it was my first trip with the rifle and I was all excited. After the first 3 shots I was questioning my self and after about 10 rounds, I started questioning the gun...
At least now I know I didn't suck that much nor did the gun.
 
One word.... Spuhr. You bought an expensive rifle and scope... you need a quality scope mount. Nightforce's rings aren't bad either.
I ended up buying badger ordnance rings for my nightforce. I dialed the gun in from 3ft down and left at 25yds. Went to shoot it at 100 and it was shooting low and left again. Went back to 25yds to find it some how went back to the original place. Also the suppressor was a smidge loose than hand tight. I’ve had several people tell me it will cause that big of an issue. The suppressor is a CGS Hekate DT.

Nightforce says the scope was good. So my next step is to rethread the barrel and take out the thread adapter. My goal is to alleviate any possible problems with concentricity. Hopefully this solves it finally.

Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Spent a hour and half at the range last weekend and couldn't figure out why I was getting 3 MOA groups until I was leaving. Turns out my scope mount was never tightened up and it was getting loose the entire time...
witness mark your nuts and bolts after installing/tightening.
 
Thanks for the suggestion I've got a couple of clamps and give that a try. Did you limit your or pull it apart for another reason? Just wondering how you did limit it if you did.
I took it apart to see how they put it together and if I could modify it to run a wsm/saum cartridge.
 
I ended up buying badger ordnance rings for my nightforce. I dialed the gun in from 3ft down and left at 25yds. Went to shoot it at 100 and it was shooting low and left again. Went back to 25yds to find it some how went back to the original place. Also the suppressor was a smidge loose than hand tight. I’ve had several people tell me it will cause that big of an issue. The suppressor is a CGS Hekate DT.

Nightforce says the scope was good. So my next step is to rethread the barrel and take out the thread adapter. My goal is to alleviate any possible problems with concentricity. Hopefully this solves it finally.

Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Insert barrel, close bolt. Tighten the two screws. I saw a youtube were the guy put in the barrel and just tightened the two screws then closed the bolt. Make sure you torque to spec.
 
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That will be done once it gets back from being rethreaded. Previous owner cut it down to 5/8-24tpi for his suppressor. The barrel doesn’t look like it has a crown of any kind on it as well.
 
I know. I thought I got a lemon cause it was my first trip with the rifle and I was all excited. After the first 3 shots I was questioning my self and after about 10 rounds, I started questioning the gun...
At least now I know I didn't suck that much nor did the gun.
Glad to know I don’t suck. Lake City 762 loose bulk ammo 100 yards indoor 5 shots
84C5B271-4FDE-4E87-8930-10ED5B8CDCF4.jpeg
 
But I did have 3 FTF. Pushed the bolt close but could not lock the bolt. Pulled the bolt back and noticed the marks on the bullet. Do any of you have really tight bolts that takes some extra force to lock down?
 
I don’t have a place to shoot beyond 850 yet so the 155 will do for now.
Yeah sadly I'm in the same boat, I only have a max of 500yd range around me. There is one just south of me in NE that has a 1776yd range but it's private and runs almost 200 a day for access.
 
Yeah sadly I'm in the same boat, I only have a max of 500yd range around me. There is one just south of me in NE that has a 1776yd range but it's private and runs almost 200 a day for access.
WOW $200 a day is hefty… The 850 range near me offers membership for $450 a year which I a pretty good price for training and plinking in general. Non member is $80 a day or $10 per hour.
 
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Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
I don’t know, a 200-220gr @ 2400fps (in a 17” barrel that’s pretty hot) works out to be well within stabilization range..

(2400fps x 12” x 60 sec)/ 8 = 216K RPM

Or even a 175gr SMK going 2700fps in a 24” barrel would still be 243K RPM in a 1:8 twist

Not sure if it’s absolutely optimal, but it’s a ridiculously accurate rifle, and you won’t be anywhere near spinning bullets apart.
 
I don’t know, a 200-220gr @ 2400fps (in a 17” barrel that’s pretty hot) works out to be well within stabilization range..

(2400fps x 12” x 60 sec)/ 8 = 216K RPM

Or even a 175gr SMK going 2700fps in a 24” barrel would still be 243K RPM in a 1:8 twist

Not sure if it’s absolutely optimal, but it’s a ridiculously accurate rifle, and you won’t be anywhere near spinning bullets apart.
Good to know. Was hoping 175 gr match will do the trick, and also might try out some M118LR in it once I'm set. The barrel would be 24".
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
I wonder if they use the same blanks for the 308, 300 prc and 300 Norma (1:8 twist). Though the 300 win mag is offered in a 1:10. So not sure about that.

Or maybe it’s just to ensure stabilization of the heavy rounds in the short barrel since the 22in 308 is offered in 1:10?


At any rate, every barrel I have shoots lights out so I’d trust the system and stick to heavy bullets.
 
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But I did have 3 FTF. Pushed the bolt close but could not lock the bolt. Pulled the bolt back and noticed the marks on the bullet. Do any of you have really tight bolts that takes some extra force to lock down?
I saw no one replied to your comment. If you could not closethe bolt and you're seeing rifling marks on the bullet, you like have bullets seated too far forward and are jamming it into the lands. The bolt should close easily on proper ammo.
 
Hey all, new to the forum. I've got a line on an MRAD for a decent price (not the SMR), and I must admit, I'm somewhat surprised at the twist rates for some of the calibers. The published twist for .308 Win is 1:8??? From every calculation I've looked at, that's overstabilization even for the longest, heaviest bullets in .308 Win. I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but has anyone experience excessive yaw or spin drift with this twist? The published reviews are all glowing, but I take the paid shills with a grain of salt. I'm seriously interested in this rifle, but the M24 was 1:11.25 and the M40 was 1:12, with most others using 1:10...

Thanks.
They use several different manufactures for blanks, then cutting, heat treating, etc is done in house.
The 1:8 will stabilize your subsonic .308 and will be fine for everything supersonic. Especially in the 17inch barrel. I have not had any issue with any of the factory Barrett barrels I have owned.
 
I saw no one replied to your comment. If you could not closethe bolt and you're seeing rifling marks on the bullet, you like have bullets seated too far forward and are jamming it into the lands. The bolt should close easily on proper ammo.
Yeah I think you are right. Only having issues with Lake City 762. Different lines of Hornady, Norma all worked fine.