Vudoo Gun Works V-22 Rimfire Bolt Action

dscl

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Jan 12, 2021
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Have far do you plan on shooting with a 60 moa base?

As long as I could direct dial to 25 yards I wanted as much elevation as possible. I have access to a 600 yard range and my max shots on target thus far have been 505 yards and I couldn't dial / hold over anymore (lower MOA base) so looking to see if I can take it out farther.
 

Cowpokey

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Just confirming that with the 40 MOA base you’re still able to dial down for 25 yards on the Cronus with room to spare? Vudoo said I would be able to do it with the 60 MOA, but just validating.

I’ll have to see if I can find the video you referenced because I had ordered the threaded barrel.
Yes, I actually have to dial "up" .4 Mil from my 50 yard zero, to get it hitting the bullseye at 25. I have 7.4 Mil down, under my zero stop with it set at 50 yards...and I still have 25.6 Mil up before the turret hits a hard stop at the top. I probably should have gone with a 60MOA rail, the scope has the vertical range for it. According to the Kestrel, adjusted for known dope at 75 and 100 yards, I could dial up to 480 yards with no hold over, and out to almost 600 with 10 MIL hold over that the APRS6 reticule has on it. I haven't taken it passed 100 yards yet, so that is theoretical at this point, but the dope my Kestrel calculated for 65 and 85 yards was perfect. Knowing the muzzle velocity has to help it run those calculations...for that I use a MagnetoSpeed V3 with an MPA spigot mount, so it's not on the barrel.

Hope that helps, and if anyone else can chime in and suggest improvements, or tell me where I'm wrong, that will be greatly appreciated.

Edit to fix..it's a Mil scope
 

Cowpokey

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60 moa would be pushing it pretty close. I think with 50moa I have 30 up left, so 60moa would get me like 31.5. Cronus is 32mil i think?
Correct, Athlon spec says 32 Mil vertical adjustment. With mine the hard stop "bottom to top" is 33 Mil...maybe they took the distortion in to that when they spec'd it, there's supposed to be some "clouding" (can't remember the correct term) when you get close to the limit(s) of the adjustment.

If you would get 31.5 Mil using a 60 MOA base, I would go for it!
 
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Tiger_Shilone

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Vudoo with 40 moa base and athlon cronus 4-29 Mounted with 1.125” nightforce rings. Zeroed at 50 yards, able to dial almost 25 mils of the cronus’s useable 32 mils. That means I’m leaving a little over 7 mils. 7 mils x 3.47 moa = 24.3 moa. So if I add another 20 moa to the base that adds 5.76 mils elevation. 7-5.76 = 1.24 mils left over if I switch out to a 60moa base.

This will let me roughly dial about 30.5 mils elevation with the cronus on a 60moa base with 1.125 rings and a 50 yard zero. My dilemma is : am I getting out of the scopes sweet spot of optical clarity with that much movement to the edge limits? @koshkin
 
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Cowpokey

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Vudoo with 40 moa base and athlon cronus 4-29 Mounted with 1.125” nightforce rings. Zeroed at 50 yards, able to dial almost 25 mils of the cronus’s useable 32 mils. That means I’m leaving a little over 7 mils. 7 mils x 3.47 moa = 24.3 moa. So if I add another 20 moa to the base that adds 5.76 mils elevation. 7-5.76 = 1.24 mils left over if I switch out to a 60moa base.

This will let me roughly dial about 30.5 mils elevation with the cronus on a 60moa base with 1.125 rings and a 50 yard zero. My dilemma is : am I getting out of the scopes sweet spot of optical clarity with that much movement to the edge limits? @koshkin
That sounds extremely close to what mine is. As for optical clarity (better use of words than "cloudly" as I used), I wonder the same thing. With the 40 MOA, and looking though it, the way I have it set up, mine should have very good optical clarity out to 350 yards...probably even 400.
 

Cowpokey

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Another question. What do we do to get the firing pin back to the detent if you pull the bolt out (360) and accidentally twist it dropping the firing pin? It wasn't intentional, I was just trying to wipe soot/grime off the outside of the bolt to clean it, and poof...it rotated to the "fired" position.

I tried holding the lugs with my hand and rotate the bolt handle, couldn't hold the lugs and rotate the bolt handle to "cock it" back to the detent. I got it reset, but had to put it in my bench vice (with plastic jaw inserts), and it still wanted to rotate the bolt housing...until I pushed the firing pin back with a delrin punch.
 

Cowpokey

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Another question. What do we do to get the firing pin back to the detent if you pull the bolt out (360) and accidentally twist it dropping the firing pin? It wasn't intentional, I was just trying to wipe soot/grime off the outside of the bolt to clean it, and poof...it rotated to the "fired" position.

I tried holding the lugs with my hand and rotate the bolt handle, couldn't hold the lugs and rotate the bolt handle to "cock it" back to the detent. I got it reset, but had to put it in my bench vice (with plastic jaw inserts), and it still wanted to rotate the bolt housing...until I pushed the firing pin back with a delrin punch.
@RAVAGE88 , is there a simple way to do this? It would suck wind to have it happen at the range...
 
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RAVAGE88

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    @RAVAGE88 , is there a simple way to do this? It would suck wind to have it happen at the range...
    Loosen the screw(s) in the cocking piece with a .05 Allen wrench, turn the bolt nose in the "lefty loosey" direction and the bolt nose will pop out in your hand due to spring pressure. Put the bolt nose aside on a clean surface. Continue to unscrew the firing pin to relieve spring pressure and relax the tension on the cocking piece. You'll reach a point that you can push the firing pin back, clearing the tab on the cocking piece from the "fired" condition and rotate the shroud so the tab sits in the detent on the bolt body. Replace bolt nose and turn firing pin back in until it stops, rotate out slightly until it indexes and tighten the screw(s) in the cocking piece. Some will need to turn the firing pin out two full turns as noted by a lasered "crescent" on the bottom of the firing pin.

    This all sounds harder in writing than it really is when you do it.

    MB
     

    littlepod

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    Since I got my ammo lot tested at Lapua I haven't shot groups at all. Just been running matches since August of 2020, so about 14 months, and about 6500 rounds of Center-X. Range was busy today and was told no rimfire practice so I was stuck just with paper targets and the bench so figured I'd do some paper and confirm dope at 104 yards and 200 (where the paper stands are).

    104 yards is what I generally expect somewhere in the .6moa range
    1630794178854.png


    200 yards, I expected about 1.25 moa as I'm usually thinking a 2.5" group is good. Looks like my ES / SD on my ammo is pretty good. Bottom group was first, and I dialed .1mils right, and the wind died, so I ended up off the paper.
    1630794237676.png


    It's always nice to shoot a highly precise rifle because you can choose random used shooting targets and shoot unused portions of it. That's why this target is all cluttered with random shots.

    My friend's 360 shoots even tighter than his Gen 1 so I'm hoping mine will be similar :) 2-3 more weeks for my 360.
     

    Jefe's Dope

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    Since I got my ammo lot tested at Lapua I haven't shot groups at all. Just been running matches since August of 2020, so about 14 months, and about 6500 rounds of Center-X. Range was busy today and was told no rimfire practice so I was stuck just with paper targets and the bench so figured I'd do some paper and confirm dope at 104 yards and 200 (where the paper stands are).

    104 yards is what I generally expect somewhere in the .6moa range
    View attachment 7697181

    200 yards, I expected about 1.25 moa as I'm usually thinking a 2.5" group is good. Looks like my ES / SD on my ammo is pretty good. Bottom group was first, and I dialed .1mils right, and the wind died, so I ended up off the paper.
    View attachment 7697182

    It's always nice to shoot a highly precise rifle because you can choose random used shooting targets and shoot unused portions of it. That's why this target is all cluttered with random shots.

    My friend's 360 shoots even tighter than his Gen 1 so I'm hoping mine will be similar :) 2-3 more weeks for my 360.

    So there IS a break-in process? 🤠
     
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    Barker12

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    Since I got my ammo lot tested at Lapua I haven't shot groups at all. Just been running matches since August of 2020, so about 14 months, and about 6500 rounds of Center-X. Range was busy today and was told no rimfire practice so I was stuck just with paper targets and the bench so figured I'd do some paper and confirm dope at 104 yards and 200 (where the paper stands are).

    104 yards is what I generally expect somewhere in the .6moa range
    View attachment 7697181

    200 yards, I expected about 1.25 moa as I'm usually thinking a 2.5" group is good. Looks like my ES / SD on my ammo is pretty good. Bottom group was first, and I dialed .1mils right, and the wind died, so I ended up off the paper.
    View attachment 7697182

    It's always nice to shoot a highly precise rifle because you can choose random used shooting targets and shoot unused portions of it. That's why this target is all cluttered with random shots.

    My friend's 360 shoots even tighter than his Gen 1 so I'm hoping mine will be similar :) 2-3 more weeks for my 360.
    Nice looking groups. When did you order your 360 ?
     

    jbell

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    I usually don't get down with getting all dressed up for such things, but this time I made an exception... Ha!
     

    jbell

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  • Jan 16, 2010
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    Looks like dad’s is the only 360. Which do you prefer?
    Yes, I have the 360 and the girls are both the GenII action. I really can’t say right now as I haven’t even chambered a round in the 360. But I really do enjoy it while dry firing it. I have now owned every iteration of the V-22 repeater and I can honestly say that I could not choose between them, they are all excellent. On top of that I have owned SO many other of the very best rimfire rifles made and for a repeater my choice is 100% the V-22…
     

    jbell

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    @Harry_19 Yes, I made a thread about it.

     

    Masojoh

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    Alright just got my 360…what do y’all use to clean that itty bitty bore diameter…
    Call Bore Tech. They will hook you up. A cleaning jag, nylon brushes, a bore guide, and a rod of the proper length - that’s what you need along with some sort of cleaner (they sell rimfire blend, which works well for me). There was a coupon for 10% off that came with my barreled action.

    Watch Mike’s video on YouTube about how to clean using the bore guide, and to minimize potential damage to the crown.
     
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    mccannicalbob

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    Jun 24, 2017
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    I felt the need to post something here regarding the outstanding customer service I received last week from Greg and Jay at Vudoo Gunworks. It seems I have one of the rare Three 60's that has sporadic ejection problems. I've been in contact with Greg at Vudoo, and it happened that I was passing through St. George, UT last week. I asked if I could stop in so he could have a look at the issue as well as help me with a couple of other things I was seeing. In addition to the weird ejection problem, I was having problems with feeding if my mag was touching anything. I also have seen a little bit of the "first shot flier" problem. Not bad, but anything is noticeable when a gun groups this well. Anyway, after giving the specifics to Greg he asked me to stop by the shop on my way through.

    When I got there Greg was waiting for me and asked me to grab my gun and come to the shop. We went directly to the bench of Jay, who while young, is clearly already a craftsman. Greg told me that it's not uncommon for the mag catch in the Bravo chassis to not work quite right, so he had Jay fab one up ahead of time for me. Note that this is for a gun that I put together, with an action from Mile High and a Bravo from KRG. This isn't a Vudoo-assembled rifle, yet they were taking time out of their day to help me out with a problem that they didn't create and they couldn't control.

    While Jay was working on my chassis, Greg grabbed a borescope and looked at my chamber. I also showed him some targets with examples of groups where the first round was outside of the rest of the shots. This only would happen if the rifle had been sitting for more than a few minutes. If I shoot two consecutive five-shot groups from one magazine, the second group is always very tight. Or, if shooting a ten-round group, the first round would be outside the group and the rest would be where they should be. Greg looked at my crown too, and it was good. He suggested the carbon ring in my chamber is likely causing my problems and gave me a detailed description of cleaning procedures and discussed the idea of "good" fouling vs. "bad" fouling. Since getting home from this visit I see that Greg has a video on youtube about cleaning a Vudoo.

    After this I got a complete tour of the shop from start to finish, and it's quite impressive. I've worked in aerospace machine shops and have inspected machine shops for my company's clients, and this one is a good one. These rifles are expensive because corners aren't cut in manufacturing, and the results show this.

    After the tour, we got back to Jay who had installed the new mag catch, test-fired the gun with my magazine, then modified a couple more magazines for me to try to see if they would fix the erratic ejection issue. In his tests at the bullet trap he found that whatever he had done seemed to help a bit, but may not completely solve the problem. I was told that they're still investigating this issue in-house and they'd notify me when they get it completely figured out. This is OK with me, as I'm not competing with the rifle at this time and the ejection is basically an inconvenience, not something that will cost me points. I should note that they had previously offered to let me send the rifle to them for a thorough evaluation, but left that decision up to me.

    I've seen the posts @RAVAGE88 has made on this forum, and the help he has provided to people here, and was always impressed. But what Greg and Jay (and everyone else I met) did for me was way beyond what I expected. I thanked both guys before I left, but I think a public thank you is in order for the way they treated me. Outstanding work, Vudoo Gunworks!
     

    Revo

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    Does anyone know the screw size and type for the Vudoo bore guide from Bore Tech? I somehow managed to lose the screw.
     

    Cowpokey

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    Thank you! Any idea what kind of head is it? Looks too tall to be a pan head. Trying to find a replacement on Fastenal but I can't really find one that matches.
    That's a good question, hopefully @RAVAGE88 will chime in to confirm. This is the closest thing I could find on McMaster:

    High-Profile Narrow Fillister Head Phillips Screw​


    Screen Shot 2021-09-09 at 8.47.56 PM.png
     

    Bmwe36as

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    Nov 9, 2019
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    Vudoo with 40 moa base and athlon cronus 4-29 Mounted with 1.125” nightforce rings. Zeroed at 50 yards, able to dial almost 25 mils of the cronus’s useable 32 mils. That means I’m leaving a little over 7 mils. 7 mils x 3.47 moa = 24.3 moa. So if I add another 20 moa to the base that adds 5.76 mils elevation. 7-5.76 = 1.24 mils left over if I switch out to a 60moa base.

    This will let me roughly dial about 30.5 mils elevation with the cronus on a 60moa base with 1.125 rings and a 50 yard zero. My dilemma is : am I getting out of the scopes sweet spot of optical clarity with that much movement to the edge limits? @koshkin
    i have a 60 moa base, I have the same specs on my ETR. I have about 31 +/- up and i can zero 25yd. Zero issues on my end for clarity or anything of that nature
     

    littlepod

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    Well I got my new 360 finally! It took about 5 months from when I placed my order. I have an NRL22X match tomorrow so I didn't want to swap all my competition gear around but I did get a Xylo chassis the other day and I have an old Razor HD AMG to throw it together. Top is the new Vudoo 360, bottom is my current comp rig, a Gen 1.2

    1632605460686.png


    Took 3 rounds to zero the new Vudoo, and went off and did 3 6x5's at 50 yards with 3 lots of Center-X. I then did 2 more 6x5's with with my old Vudoo. The results weren't great, and I thought my trusty old Vudoo would've done a lot better as I generally do groups in the .25-2.7" but it was kind of a mess today. Shot in prone, breezy and next to a guy with an AR and a brake. Good news is the new Peltor LEP-200's did fantastic. I didn't have to double up and they were super comfy.

    1632605987926.png


    A little over 100 rounds on the new 360, and happy to say zero feeding or extraction issues. With the ARC Xylo, the magazine well is super tight. 2 of my poly mags fit, but 1 of them wouldn't free drop. The 15-round aluminum fit, but the 12-round I had to manually pull out. The one that wouldn't fit was .8mm thicker. The aluminum mag I can't seem to figure out where it's rubbing as I measured different areas and they all seemed to be the same dimensions.

    The bolt lift, I have to say for a 3-lug felt exactly the same heaviness as my 2-lug so it felt. Action is smoother as well even though it's brand new compared to my 10K round Gen 1.2.

    I don't think I'll go out and spend any significant time on groups again though. I'll most likely just send my 360 to Lapua like I did my Gen 1.2 and just continue comps. All my groups are good enough to hit the 1/4" kyl at 50 yards, and the vertical stringing probably was just me.
     

    littlepod

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    I plan to do that with mine, but just FYI, Mike Bush told me that he suggests not sending it off until you have at least 1000 rounds through it...

    Yeh I won't send it for a while. I have a case of my 24xx and 26xx that looks to shoot well enough and will hold me over for quite some time. I might invest in a case of Midas+ if it shows significant 100yd groups just so I have some slightly tighter ammo for engaging the 300+ yard targets.
     

    Sagittarius

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    I like the Xylo chassis, littlepod.
    It's one of my favorites and about the only one I know of that is constructed of superior 7075 T-6 aluminum. 👍
    Looks like you've attached a 419 barricade stop to your ARCA rail which is the best looking on the market.
    The XLR chassis is excellent too though; two great-looking rifles, congratulations.
     

    littlepod

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    I like the Xylo chassis, littlepod.
    It's one of my favorites and about the only one I know of that is constructed of superior 7075 T-6 aluminum. 👍
    Looks like you've attached a 419 barricade stop to your ARCA rail which is the best looking on the market.
    The XLR chassis is excellent too though; two great-looking rifles, congratulations.

    Thanks! I do like the Xylo chassis a lot. I personally like to support my rifles on top of the fore-end which is why I really like the XLR Envy Pro so much. I'm hoping I can find someone to CAD up something that can go ontop of the ARC.

    The barricade stop is there, but the mag has absolutely no movement in the way the Xylo is engineered, so I think I can just get rid of it, but it still looks pretty nice with it on.
     

    Sagittarius

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    The barricade stop is there, but the mag has absolutely no movement in the way the Xylo is engineered, so I think I can just get rid of it, but it still looks pretty nice with it on.
    I would have to leave it on, if it were my rifle, as I think it looks cool. 😎
    Looks matter too, lol.
     

    flatland1

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    It's killing me to hear about & see all the new Three 60 builds here - my Three 60 action and all the parts for the build are sitting out in the shop, just waiting for me to get time to finish replacing the spindle bearings on the JET lathe so I can get this baby up & running before winter! Keep it up guys - this is exactly the sort of motivation I need to get fall drilling & harvesting done so I can get the lathe finished.