Can you PM a video to me?Anyone other than me having a bit of a problem ejecting spend shells?
Mine extract then lie in the action for me to pick out.
MB
Can you PM a video to me?Anyone other than me having a bit of a problem ejecting spend shells?
Mine extract then lie in the action for me to pick out.
If you are asking me, it all depends on what stock you are using, and if it has pillars, and has been bedded. I think you better let Mike B. answer that.Is there a recommended action screw torque setting for the V22s?
Thanks,
RFS99
Is there a recommended action screw torque setting for the V22s?
Thanks,
RFS99
The Shilen is a fine barrel and worth waiting for but if it were me (and it isn'tWell was charged the balance of my order last week that I was to pay when rifle was done then was contacted today that it isnt done and if I still want the shilen barrel It will be a long wait. What a kick in the nuts. Very bummed out
Thanks but I need the torque specs for the V22s, not the V22.
If you have pillars, anywhere from 55-65 inch lbs will work great.Thanks but I need the torque specs for the V22s, not the V22.
Mic both wrenches, I see quite a bit of variation in some. Just out of curiosity...I'd tried to loosen the two little 4-40 set screws that hold the rear of the V-22S's striker so I could unscrew the striker to change to a lighter spring out of the kit the action ships with, using a ball-end Wera 0.05 L-shaped hex wrench, but all it was doing was slipping without turning the screws. Figured I'd rounded off the hex head of both screws, and would have to use an EZ-Out to get them loose, so ordered some spare set screws, a Wera 0.05 hex driver, and etc from MSC a few days ago. A partial order with the Wera driver came today, so I pulled the bolt out of the rifle, pulled the striker assembly out of the bolt, and tried the new Wera hex driver in one of the set screws - it went a lot deeper into the screw than the L-wrench had, and it didn't take a lot of effort to loosen that screw up. Tried it in the 2nd screw, and it also loosened without any slippage of the wrench. No idea why the L-shaped wrench wouldn't slide down into the set screw far enough to work, especially since they're from the same maker, but I'm sure glad I didn't bugger-up the set screws with an EZ-Out. Swapped out the 16lb spring for the lightest one in the kit - 13lb - so when this 25-30mph with higher gusts wind dies down in a few days, I'll get the rifle out and do some testing to see if that's heavy enough to give consistent ignition.
Do you see any accuracy difference in the rifles you are referring to? I ask because in theory a properly bedded action the torque on the screws should not matter (within reason). I have tested a lot also and have yet to see a difference anywhere from 30 lb-in up to 70 lb-in when the bedding is stress free.Man, I’ll tell you, while I know what gets recommended but, most guns I ‘ve owned and know of generally don’t get tightened past about 30 inlbs In a properly bedded, pillared rifle.
To really be able to answers your question I need to know what kind of stock are you using, and is it fully pillared and epoxy bedded ?????Thanks but I need the torque specs for the V22s, not the V22.
Do you see any accuracy difference in the rifles you are referring to? I ask because in theory a properly bedded action the torque on the screws should not matter (within reason). I have tested a lot also and have yet to see a difference anywhere from 30 lb-in up to 70 lb-in when the bedding is stress free.
Agreed, I was just curious if there was a reason why you landed on 30lb-in in specific.Well, you’re probably correct, so now the question becomes why tighten well past what is likely required for stress free securing the action into the stock?
Lots of guys have done lots of testing on this.
Hell, these days, a lot of guys do not even torque them any longer, be it sporter, LV, HV, UNL. If you are not heavy handed with good bedding & hardware, if you cinch them down properly, when they get there they just stop.
I mean I’m anal and have an in lb wrench so I still do everything @30 in lb.
most do not realize how tight that really is.
If you see a change between good and snug and 30-35 in lbs, you likely have bedding issues. All these guys talking about needing to vary front to back are addressing the wrong problem. With a factory gun, sure, but if it is bedded/ pillered, something moved with a wood stock or you got a shit job.
Agreed, I was just curious if there was a reason why you landed on 30lb-in in specific.
When did you order it if you don't mind my asking....Mine is on its way. Been on order a very long time.
WOW! That's one heck of a wait! I know it'll be worth it. Ordered mine October 2nd. Looks like I have a ways to go.....Middle of July.
There’s a lot of discussion about action bolt torque and I’m not certain why, other than, it appears a lot of guys overthink it. It’s primarily dependent on the stock material, bedding/pillars.Mike, can you share what Vudoo recommends for action screw torque on the V22s?
Thanks,
RFS99
I've been shooting my V-22s with the action screws torque at 50 inch pounds. I've not found any reason to change as it's the best shooting rimfire I've ever owned!There’s a lot of discussion about action bolt torque and I’m not certain why, other than, it appears a lot of guys overthink it. It’s primarily dependent on the stock material, bedding/pillars.
Generally, I use 65 inch pounds across the board with our NRL22/PRS type builds and have never seen playing with torque values have an impact on what’s seen at the target. For the V-22S, I have no reason to change this but can sign up to a torque range of 45 to 65 inch pounds.
MB
I agree, and I use 20 in/lbs on all my rimfire and see no reason to change either. Point is, use whatever setting you have confidence in.I've been shooting my V-22s with the action screws torque at 50 inch pounds. I've not found any reason to change as it's the best shooting rimfire I've ever owned!