Just wanted to let the long distance shooting community of my terrible experience with CHeytac. Years ago I bought a Cheytac 408 M200 from them when they were in Arco, ID. The rifle shot great, hitting 12x20 steel at 2200 yards. Shortly after I got my rifle the company reportedly let everyone go and supposedly went bankrupt. I held on to the rifle hoping the company would come back. I did not hear anything about the company until 2-3 years ago, when I attended a sniper course in Blakely,GA at Legions. I saw several Cheytac banners and the staff told me that Cheytac was now based in Nashville, GA and were definitely in business.

I contacted them to see what was up with the company. I was told that they had a great plant in Nashville and after discussing the merits of the 408 vs the 375 I was talked into a barrel change to shoot the 375. I sent them my rifle for the work. I was also contacted by them about a new Cheytac XLD in 375 that was on sale. I purchased that rifle in December of 2015. I was told that the new rifles shot sub 1MOA.. I recieved my M 200 and the newXLD in early 2016. The M200 was a total wreck!

The bolt would not operate, the trigger would not operate and the barrel was loose. They also lost the NF 55x22 scope I sent them. I contacted them regarding these issues and was connected to the new CEO -- a Mr. Omanoff. He was testy regarding the issues I had with my M200, but after numerous emails and phone calls he told me to send the rifle to a premier gunsmith in Colorado, that he had contacted to do an inspection and repair. I sent the my M200 and because of the crappy work on my M200 I also send my new unshot 375 XLD for testing. A week or so after I shipped the rifles, I was contacted by Mr. Omanoff apologizing for the terrible condition of my M200 and told me they were working on correcting problems with there product and that all of the previous employees, who assembled the rifles, reamed barrels were let go.

I spoke with the gunsmith and asked him to test both rifles for function and accuracy. He sadly told me that the M200 had major issues and that the brand new 375 shot no better than 1.5-2.0 MOA. The gunsmith informed me that Mr. Omanoff had told other Cheytac owners to send their poor shooting rifles to them for correction. The rifles have been with the Colorado gunsmith for nearly a year and half, with no solution supplied by Cheytac. I was told that they were looking into a new reamer, new ammo, because the barrel work and ammo loading was not correct at the Nashville plant.

I again tried to contact Mr. Omanoff regarding these issues several times, but was unsuccessful. I later learned that the company had let Mr. Omanoff go and was under new management. They also relocated to South Carolina and the advertisement emails I receive informed me of the new management and commitment to correct problems. I have send them several emails about my rifles and a certified letter detailing my horrible experience and also send them copies of the emails from the previous CEO, Mr. Omanoff.

As of today, I have not received any correspondence, email or phone call!!! The company continues to market their rifles as the ultimate and accurate long distance rifle, but I assure you they don't. I have had other friends with rifles chambered in both 408 and 375 who have had great success, but those rifles were made by other companies besides Cheytac.

So to all the long distance shooters, be aware of getting anything from Cheytac. They rifles from the old company don't shoot and the company is not at all responsive to my correspondence and as of today have not supplied a solution to the gunsmith they told me to send the rifles too. IF you want a rifle chambered in 375 or 408 get one from someone else besides Cheytac. I have heard that Cadex, Mirage and Hill Country Rifles build an accurate 375 and 408---

Abandoned puppy posted on the Texas Hunting Forum. Good looking puppy.
We can't have another.

East meets West – 10x Binocular Challenge​

Login to view embedded media
Arguably the most popular binocular for western hunting is the venerable 10x42, ask almost any hunter and they probably have at least one 10x42 in their lineup, but what makes this magnification and objective sought after almost more than any other? I would posit that it is a combination of both the magnification – 10x being somewhat of a sweet spot especially in hunting regions with more wide-open spaces along with the objective size of 42mm offering a unit that doesn’t weigh too much but still provides a 4.2mm exit pupil, as well as the weight being kept to a reasonable level. For many reasons, having a 5mm exit pupil is more ideal for overall performance; however, most 10x50 binos are a bit on the heavy side and for this reason, I think a lot of hunters have skipped over this option. But what if I told you that there was a new 10x50 bino on the scene using premium Japanese glass that doesn’t weigh any more than one of the best Austrian 10x42’s on the market, and what if I further told you the new bino was also designed by a German manufacturer, would you be interested?

I think many would be at least curious if a 10x50 bino with the benefits of the larger objective but without the extra weight could compete with the venerable 10x42.

THE BINOCULARS​

If I were to put up a poll and ask “which is the most popular 10x42 binocular on the market today” more than likely the majority would say, “the Swarovski EL 10x42”. Yes, Swaro has a new NL Pure but many still prefer their EL’s and yes, Zeiss has their Victory SF and Leica has their Noctivid but, by and large, it is Swarovski that appears to win the popularity contest and likely due to the Swarovision flat field lens technology which improves edge to edge performance, but this "flat field" also bothers some people who pan a lot. All our eyes are different, so it's good to have options. Regardless, I chose the Swarovski EL to represent some of the best glass from the “west”. In comparison, the Japanese have been making some pretty phenomenal glass (for sport optics) for the past 5ish years that have really given the German/Austrian (G/A) glass a run for their money; one of the best examples of this has been the LOW 6-36x56 scopes compared to some of the best FFP scopes on the market – true, the best is still the “best” but for less than half the cost (in some cases) the Vortex RG3, Zeiss LRP S3 and Element Theos are not that far behind. For this reason I have been curious if similar quality glass would be made available in the binocular lineup, which brings us to the primary optic for this review – the Zeiss SFL 10x50 is a brand new design from one of the best German sport optics manufacturers, but what is unique about their SFL line is that they are using some pretty premium Japanese glass and construction for a lighter weight design than is typical for the objective size and offered at a more “affordable” price than the premium German lineup.

As with my scope reviews, this review will cover the optical and mechanical characteristics of the binoculars with a few tweaks appropriate to the differences between binos and rifle scopes. The same bias is still at play, there are certain characteristics and features that my eyes prefer so throughout my review you will see me make mention of those items to better help you decide if what I “see” will be an issue for you. Also similar to rifle scopes, it is very important that you setup the diopter correctly and binos can be a bit tricky, but in general most binoculars have only one diopter adjustment and it is usually on the right barrel (with the Swarovski the adjustment is on the face of the center focus wheel but still controls the diopter of the right barrel), some mfr’s offer a locking diopter which is usually a pull (to unlock) and push (to lock) design. To adjust the diopter correctly it is generally recommended that you find an object about 50 yards away and cover the right barrel (with the lens cover or other object), keep both eyes open and look through the binoculars, you will only see the object through the left barrel/left eye and you will adjust the focus wheel until the object is as sharp as possible (recommend putting the binos on a tripod or other stable platform so you are not battling hand shake), once you are confident the left barrel is in ideal focus, cover the left barrel and open up the right barrel (be careful not to touch or bump the focus wheel) – now look at the object which will now be viewed through only the right barrel/right eye and now simply adjust the diopter until the object is in ideal focus, once done you can lock or mark the diopter for future reference but once you uncover both barrels the object should be in ideal focus for both your eyes. If you do not set your diopter correctly (for either rifle scope or binocular) you can have the best glass in the world and may not be very impressed so it is critical that you get this right from the beginning.

SPECS​

The below specs are provided by the manufacturers which provides a good baseline for what these binoculars offer and how they compare.

MECHANICAL ASSESSMENT OF FOCUS WHEEL AND DIOPTER​

Unlike riflescopes, there are fewer moving parts with a set of fixed magnification binoculars. The diopter should really be a set it and forget it option (however, if you are going through a lot of eye issues or changes it would be a good idea to check diopter every once in a while and especially if you have eye surgery). So the main mechanical feature is the focus wheel itself.

Mechanical Assessment criteria (ratings: = (equals) > (greater than) ranked highest to lowest):​

Focus Wheel Adjustment ranking:​

Zeiss SFL 10x50 = Swarovski EL 10x42

Both feel very refined with smooth adjustment, neither felt too tight or too loose, I would consider both to be ideal.

Focus Wheel Adjustment Forgiveness ranking:​

Swarovski EL 10x42 > Zeiss SFL 10x50

What exactly is focus “forgiveness”? I define this as how much or how little you have to mess with the focus wheel at varying distances. The less you have to mess with the focus wheel the better (more forgiving), and the more you have to mess with the focus wheel is worse (finicky).

Diopter Adjustment Rankings:
Zeiss SFL 10x50 > Swarovski EL 10x42

The Swarovski has an interesting diopter adjustment point as it sits on the face of the focus wheel itself, it is not the easiest to adjust but gets the job done as a set it and forget it type of setting. The Zeiss has the more traditional diopter setting right in front of the right side eyecup and is the easier of the two to setup IMO.

Eye Cup Adjustment rankings:
Zeiss SFL 10x50 = Swarovski EL 10x42

Due to the short eye relief design of binoculars you have to get them up close and personal and for eyeglass wearers that could be an issue so most manufacturers give you adjustable eyecups. Both Swarovski and Zeiss use a design with 3 main adjustment notches and you can choose what is most comfortable while offering the largest sight picture possible. Both units were easy to adjust and for the most part held their position with multiple use.

Overall Side Focus and Diopter Mechanical Assessment Rankings:​

Swarovski EL 10x42 >= Zeiss SFL 10x50

All things considered the two are pretty closely matched; however, I would say the Swaro has the slight advantage due to having greater focus forgiveness.

OPTICAL QUALITY​

One of the most debated topics among the forums with regard to sport optics is how “good” is the glass in any particular optic. There are many things that can affect how our brain perceives the image through an optical lens and since we all tend to “see” things a little differently optical quality can be somewhat hard to quantify; however, I think I have a pretty good review formula that breaks down some of the different nuances of optical characteristics along with my personal preferences in each category to hopefully give you a better idea of what I’m seeing and how you might agree or disagree based on your own preference.

Optical Assessment criteria (rating lower numbers are worse and higher numbers are best):​

Pop (Combination of Color, Contrast and Clarity) on resolution chart​

Pop is the ability for the image to really stand out and come alive. This is the overall impression your brain receives when first looking through the optic (bearing in mind that you must have the diopter setup correctly to begin with, if you look through someone’s optic at the range which was setup for their eye then you are shortchanging yourself and possibly get a false sense of how well the optic could perform if properly setup for your eye).

Pop (Combination of Color, Contrast and Clarity) at distance >500y​

How well does the overall image look when viewing objects at distance. Sometimes I have seen some optics perform very well closeup but not so great at distance and vice versa.

Contrast (High)​

My high contrast target has very bright white paper with very black lines, the numbers represent the smallest value I am able to discern.

Contrast (Low)​

My low contrast target has a gray background with darker gray lines, the numbers represent the smallest value I was am to discern.

Chromatic Aberration (CA) Center​

A hotly debated topic – CA, which is typically seen at the edges between high and low contrast objects in what is termed fringing and usually comes in a band of color along the green/yellow and magenta/purple spectrum, some are greatly annoyed by this optical anomaly while others insist they cannot see it, one thing to know is it has little to do with your ability to hit a target, but can affect the clarity of the target (especially in lower light situations). I tested for both center CA and edge CA. One other area is CA sensitivity with lateral movement off the center of the scope, you can quickly induce CA in these situations which are often rectified by proper eye placement behind the center of the optic.

Chromatic Aberration (CA) Periphery/Edge​

Many scopes may have really good performance in the center of the image, but quickly fall apart as you move toward the edge of the image which can affect your ability to accurately see and define objects towards the edges.

Color Accuracy​

If you’ve ever heard the term “it’s all in the eye of the beholder” that in large part describes the experience of color for each of us. It seems our eyes have different sensitivity to different parts of the spectrum and while I tend to prefer “warmer” images and am somewhat put off by “cooler” ones, others see colors differently.

Resolution (Center)​

This is different from my line resolution testing, this is how “sharp” the image appears, I’m looking for details and the optics ability to resolve those details.

Resolution (Edge)​

Same thing as center resolution but now I’m focusing my eye at the extreme edge of the sight picture and determining if there is any image degradation that occurs toward the edges. An optic can have very sharp center resolution but poor edge sharpness and it will give the user the impression that the overall quality is not very good.

Resolution (Edge) at distance >500y​

I added in this test because I was beginning to notice that some scopes did not perform so well in the close testing but seemed to do better at distance, I still prefer an optic that has superb edge to edge sharpness, but found that some optics did not bother me as much as I thought they would at distance.

Eyebox Forgiveness​

Eyebox with binoculars is a bit different from that of rifle scopes due to different designs within each, the nature of the design of the binocular with shorter eye relief than most rifle scopes along with eyepieces that are designed for you to rest your brow against (or at least close to). That said, there is still an advantage with some designs over others and they just “feel” easier to get a good sight picture.

Depth of Field (DOF) Forgiveness​

DOF forgiveness is the ability to have both near objects as well as far away objects appear “in focus” in your sight picture. An example would be to set your focus at some far distance and you notice that both an object that is closer as well as one that is further look relatively in focus.

Focus Forgiveness​

How much, or rather how little, do you have to play with the focus wheel in order to get an object in focus as you change distance.

Mirage (effect)​

This is another one of those terms that requires a definition. Mirage occurs because light bends to move through warmer, less dense air, this “bending” of light is the effect we see when our target appears to dance or wobble in the distance, we know the target is stationary but as the heat waves rise from the ground, the light is bent and gives the perception that the image is distorted. What I am looking for here is the ability of the scope to tame or limit the effect of mirage, within the community this is often referred to as “cutting through mirage” and some optics handle this situation better than others. Keep in mind that my results are based on what I saw on the particular day I was testing; however, different atmospheric conditions can either decrease or increase the effect of mirage by quite a large margin.

Optical quality Test Results (higher numbers are better)​

Field of View (FOV)​

With rifle scopes FOV can be tricky because manufacturers list FOV at only two settings – the bottom and the top magnification making the middle of the range hard to evaluate, but the vast majority of binoculars are fixed magnification so the FOV should be accurate if the manufacturer did their due diligence. There has been a growing trend of offering optics that provide greater FOV and Zeiss’s latest shows just that, offering what I believe is the most FOV of any premium 10x binocular on the market.

Twilight Transmission (low light performance)​

From about 20 minutes after sunset, I begin testing both binoculars side by side as the evening becomes darker and darker. These results are very subjective and as I have aged, I believe my eyes low light acuity has decreased. You may have very different results depending on your age and how good your eyes are. What surprised me in this test was how well the Swarovski did with only a 4.2mm exit pupil vs. the Zeiss’s 5mm exit pupil and it wasn’t until the very last of low light that I felt the Zeiss actually had an edge. Swarovski has better depth of field and better focus adjustment whereas the Zeiss has less depth the field and requires more finicky focus adjustment, but not terrible. Swarovski 42 mm objective holds its own in low light and only until the darkest light after sunset is where the Zeiss has a slight edge.



Resolution Line Chart (LPI)
It’s one thing for me to look through an optic and judge resolution based on a 1-10 ranking, but it’s quite another to look at line charts and determine how many lines I’m able to resolve at a given magnification, my resolution testing above is a good “first impression” but the line chart does not lie and provides a more quantitative result. For most results you’ll see a range – it is hard to resolve exact values with your eye and I would try to narrow it down as best I could but sometimes eye strain, perfect alignment, etc. would get in the way.

Other factors:​

Sight Picture (HD)​

• ZEISS SFL 10X50: Very good image.
• Swarovski EL 10x42: Excellent image.

Outer Periphery​

• ZEISS SFL 10X50: Somewhat thick periphery but thinner than Swaro.
• Swarovski EL 10x42: Pretty thick periphery.

Flare/Halation (direct sun on objective at 10x)​

• ZEISS SFL 10X50: Very little whiteout, excellent image fidelity with only a minor spot. I also tested with the sun behind the eyepiece and did not find any red hue that some have claimed occurs with Zeiss’s LRP line of scopes.
• Swarovski EL 10x42: Image gets washed out pretty easily, whiteout in image appears opposite of the light source location (so if the sun is in the upper left corner the whiteout will appear in the lower right section of the sight picture.)

Overall Optical Assessment Results:
Swarovski EL 10x42 >= Zeiss SFL 10x50

I happen to be one of the people who like/prefer the Swarovision flat-field technology which offers very sharp edge to edge performance, I do happen to pan with my binos as I not only use them for hunting but also for birding where I’m scanning back and forth looking for critters, as such I definitely lean towards the Swaro’s for this reason; however, the minimal edge distortion and wider FOV of the Zeiss SFL never really bothered me or caused me to feel that my FOV was hindered, it is a very well done design especially at its price point. In the end, the more expensive Austrian glassed EL has the edge, but like I’ve seen with rifle scopes and the RG3, I saw here as well, the Zeiss with the Japanese glass is not far behind at all and in some areas (like distance and halation) I actually felt the Zeiss performs better; let me clarify, at distances beyond 500 yards I felt the Zeiss actually resolved the image better providing more micro contrast detail than what I saw through the Swaro EL, this surprised me.

ERGONOMICS​

Overall Ergonomic Assessment Results:
ZEISS SFL 10X50 = Swarovski EL 10x42

The overall ergonomic assessment is based on the features of the optic, how intuitive are they to use, how easy are they to manipulate. The hinge on both are outstanding and provide the right resistance allowing for proper pupil spacing without easily moving off the adjustment. Both focus wheels are easy to access from left or right hand and manipulate. Both eyecups are easy to set without fear of them getting bumped out. Both feel very good in the hands so I would rank this as a tie.

FIT & FINISH​

Overall Fit & Finish Assessment Results:
Swarovski EL 10x42 > ZEISS SFL 10X50

What I’m looking for here is quality of the finish, how each piece interacts which each other, materials used and function as a working whole. I feel the Swarovski takes the overall victory in this category while the Zeiss is truly not far behind. I would say the rubber armor on the Zeiss is maybe a little “too rubbery” and tends to collect and hold dust a little more (this can actually be seen in some of the pictures). This has nothing to do with performance of the binocular as a whole but this is the fit and finish section and I think Swaro has slightly better finish on their EL.

AREAS OF IMPROVEMENT​

Zeiss SFL 10x50
As mentioned above, the rubber armor has a tendency to hold dust a bit more making it a bit more difficult to keep clean. I would like to see Zeiss offer some type of flat field lens or improve upon the edge distortion some.

Swarovski EL 10x42
There is a reason the Swarovski EL is considered one of the best binoculars made, there is very little to find complaint in. I suppose it would be FOV, but Swarovski has addressed this in their (uber expensive) NL Pure line which offers best in class FOV but at 1.5x the cost of the EL.

FINAL THOUGHTS​

The new Zeiss SFL 10x50 is a remarkably good design for the price, offering premium optical performance at almost half to more than half the cost of the competition. That along with the fact that you get 42% larger objective size while being the same length as the Swaro 10x42’s and not weighing more than most of them either, along with the fact it has one of the best FOV numbers out in a 10x design… this is a win win in my book. The Zeiss SFL offers brilliant pop, brightness and overall experience at an amazing street price. If you want one of the best then get the Swarovski, but you’re going to pay more for it and if you spend a lot of time looking into sunsets or sunrises you may find it frustrating due to flare. What this confirms for me is that the latest premium glass coming from Japan is very, very close to the very best glass from Germany/Austria (G/A) and offers some quality’s that might actually benefit you more than overall quality of the best G/A glass. If you want brilliant edge to edge sharpness then Swaro is your choice but if you want more accurate color, wider FOV, brighter image for lower light and better micro contrast at distance then I honestly think Zeiss is the choice. But the choice is yours, and I do not think you cannot go wrong with either.

Trying to thin the herd a little more likely will be added!!

Defiance SA Mag blot face. Brand new 825

Proof Carbon 6.5 1-8T 24” finished length. 800

I was planning on a 6.5 SAUM and went a different direction so these two are up for grabs.

Tikka T3x TACT A1
6.5 creedmoor with a 24” barrel shot less than 50 rounds. 2000

Christensen Arms Mesa FFT 6.5 creedmoor shoots less than 1/2” with 140. Shot with Christensens barrel break in procedure shot less than 75 times. 1100

Christensen Arms Mesa FFT 300 PRC shoots under 3/4” with Berger 215 and 225 ELD M. Was shot with a suppressor and Christensens barrel break in. Has been shot less 75 times. Bought this rifle for an elk hunt with a buddy and ended up going a different route (custom). 1100

Remington 742 280 rem with 3 boxes of ammo. I’ve never shot this rifle I got it from an older gentleman. It’s not a safe queen and not priced as such. 500

I also have a Zeus QC 22” proof carbon 300PRC I’d like to trade for a Zeus QC in 7 PRC or 24” 300PRC carbon also. Mine has less than 75 rounds down the barrel.

I can send more pics or specific pics as requested.
Located in Sealy but work in Houston and travel to San Antonio occasionally. Also not opposed to trying to meet up. Prefer FFT but will entertain shipping if it works out.
Willing to negotiate also not opposed to trading.

Thanks for looking!!

50 new and unopened. Ordered then decided on a different setup. $55 shipped, Paypal F&F

I am looking for a MDT prs/short bipod.

Thinking about buying a first suppressor, but can’t decide between a .30 caliber model or a .22 rimfire can? It’s a pretty common conundrum.


A .30 cal. suppressor, like a BANISH 30 (https://www.silencercentral.com/products/banish-30), is a great, all-purpose option for hunting and target shooting. It covers the gamut from rimfire plinkers to larger-caliber rifles in popular chamberings like .308 Winchester or a 6.5 Creedmoor. The .30-cal suppressor quickly becomes a go-to tool for hunting rifles, especially when shooters step up to magnum cartridges for chasing larger game like elk. Not only does it bring the report of rounds like 7mm Rem. Mag. and .300 Win. Mag. down to hearing safe levels, it also eats up a lot of recoil. It’s favored for those same reasons by tactical and competition shooters who want to reach out and touch something without getting their shoulder punched and their bell rung with every blast.

Rimfire cans, like the BANISH 22 (https://www.silencercentral.com/products/banish-22) are also a must-have for any burgeoning suppressor collection. Typically, they are designed to work with .17- and .22-caliber rimfire rounds, and often cost quite a bit less than more sophisticated, larger-bore suppressors. Rimfire ammo, too, is less expensive and hardly recoils, so it is fun to shoot and shoot a lot. An appropriate suppressor increases that fun factor even further. They are great training aids, taking the bark and bite (recoil) out of the equation for new shooters, allowing them to focus on fundamentals. And they can be perfect companions for small-game hunting.

It's worth noting, too, that some rimfire cans, like the BANISH 22, can be used with small-caliber centerfire cartridges, including .22 Hornet and even 5.7x28.

While both suppressor types are great for in the field, they really shine when it comes to practice, where you’re getting a lot of trigger time. The hearing protection alone is worth it, and the added benefits of increased accuracy and recoil reduction are a big plus when introducing new shooters to the shooting sports.


What was your first suppressor? Is there one you wish you had now?

Selling my MDT GRND-POD bipod mlok. Used but in great shape.

Asking $100

PM if interested

​

Brand new in the wrapped Proof 18” .223 wylde barrel. Taken out of the box to put in my safe and realized I had 3 other 18” 5.56 rifles. Looking to get 500 OBO

Got a bunch of these in stock and ready to go
- like a bigger cheaper Garmin

Use code SH10 for the best deal

found more ARCA plates, add one to your order for only $10 more
- in the drop down

Limited quantities available


Login to view embedded media

Hey y'all!
We have had our remaining Guide units on sale and we don't have many left! These were the best units for the money at the normal price, they are a steal now with the 20% off add-to-cart pricing!
We have a handful of TA (Clip-on) variants left, each one comes with our custom mount adapter and ADM clamp, as well as the Industry leading 10 year warranty.

The 50mm's will take about 12x day-scope zoom comfortably and fulfill the mid range thermal role very well. The 384 versions look damn close to the 640s due to the higher screen res.
TA651
TA451

The 30mm will perform similar to a C35 if you've ever used one, but with better processing/image, less rail space, almost half the weight, better warranty, etc. They will take about 8x zoom comfortably.
TA631
TA431

We also have 1x TR420 (384 20mm), TR620 (640 20mm), and TR450 (384 50mm) left if you prefer a TWS.
TR450
TR620
TR420


Text, call, or email before you buy or if you have any questions!
Tyler Martin
214-507-7208
[email protected]

Hey y'all!
We have Envision MARSc, MARS Lc, and MARS Mc instock and ready to ship.

Text, call, or email for inquiries or to purchase!
214-507-7208
[email protected]

These are awesome units. Insanely small, super light, tons of features, and very customizable.

The Collector is a gun safe designed for serious gun collectors, providing unmatched storage and security. With a capacity for 72 long guns, this large gun safe allows you to store your entire arsenal with ease. The uniquely wide frame door ensures easy access, while the reinforced frame delivers top-notch pry resistance for superior security. In addition to its robust build, The Collector offers 110 minutes of Cool Box™ fire protection, keeping your valuables safe from fire with industry-leading technology.

Security is further enhanced by ¼" solid-state locking bars and the innovative Dual Fusion™ 2-piece steel body built to withstand the toughest attacks. Whether you need ample space for your collection or the highest level of protection, The Collector from Liberty Safe stands as the fortress your firearms deserve. This extra-large gun safe is the perfect solution for those seeking maximum security and convenience.

Made in the USA
110 Minutes Fire
Level 5 Security
12 Solid State™ Locking Bars

Visit the Site - The Collector

We've got a couple secondhand thermal binos available. They are superb Spotters
-Nvision Atlas thermal binos, 3k
-Pulsar Merger XP50 LRF binos, 3.5k
Both are used but like new.

-We also have a NEW EOtech Clip-Ir ELR in stock, ready to ship. Pm or email for pricing.

-And finally, our remaining Guide and Armasight units are still at blowout pricing. We have a few TA431, TR420, and Sidekicks.

[email protected]
214-507-7208

Built 223 on Defiance Tenacity Action - Built to be a practice gun for my 6 Dasher. The action and barrel have less than 500 rounds on it and very good condition.

Will sell the gun without the scope, but the gun needs to sell first.

All Transactions, not face to face, will be performed through FFL in AL and will ship directly from FFL. We can discuss on the phone further.

Specs:
.223 Bore
MPA Comp BA Chassis - Color Gunmetal(I think)
Timiney Calvin Elite Trigger
Bipod - Not Included
Scope - Nightforce Atacr - 5x25 Mil R Reticle
MPA 1 Piece Scope Rings
2 - 10 round Mags included

$4,500 obo Gun and Scope
Located Tuscaloosa, AL

500 count 105gr Match Burners. Great bullets for the money.

$160.00 shipped

Looking to purchase a xm2010 chassis la for 300 win its a very personal project

This may sound stupid, so I apologize in advance...but has anyone had a serious look at what Leapers is doing currently? I was on their sight trying to get a warranty done for a customer and saw that they make a $3000 FFP optic.

Did they really step up their game from the Walmart/Amazon special?

I’ve read through a bunch of threads on mph gun and the corrected wind roses and brackets/charts. I understand how to get my gun mph with the G1 bc, easy enough. After that I’m a bit confused how the rest all fits together. Do you use the mph gun method: Full value wind speed / mph gun= multiplier Then multiplier x decimal yard value (.7 for 700 yards etc) = full value wind hold then you have to multiply that by your wind angle %…. If that’s all right that’s a lot of math in the field.

Or just use the corrected wind speed angle rose, use that corrected wind speed number in conjunction with a premade wind bracket for your gun mph and that’s your hold?
Example. 17mph wind at 11 o’clock is a 9mph wind. You have a 6mph gun. Shooting 200 yards.
Bracket1 (6mph). Bracket2 (12mph)
.1(@100). .2
.2(@200). .4
. So your wind hold would be .3

I’m sure I’m missing something, appreciate any help.

Hello Everybody,

You're welcome to send in your action to have the barrel timed.

Here is the shouldered Pre-Fit List:

Accuracy International no wrench flats (M27x2.0) (M30x2.0)
American Rifle Company
Curtis
Defiance Machine
Impact 737R
Kelbly's Atlas,Prometheus & Nanook
Lone Peak
Pure Precision
Sig SSG 3000 with Benchmark Extension
Terminus
Tikka
Zermatt
Updated Contact Info: 406-539-4684
Phone Hours: Monday, Wednesday & Friday 12 PM until 1:30 PM
Mountain Standard Time.
Email: [email protected]
I try to answer emails first thing in the morning or during lunch.
Prices are here: https://www.fishertandc.com/barrelwork
CAGE Code: 9SLZ8
Reamers are here: https://www.fishertandc.com/reamers
Shipping Info: https://www.fishertandc.com/shipping

Thanks for looking,
Chase

Wanting to check some loads for my mk12, can I put the magneto speed chronograph on the suppressor. I’m worried about baffle strikes.

I am loading 6.5CM - 147 ELD-M & 41.5 H4350 in Alpha SRP brass. Average velocity is 2784 FPS. Shooting out of a MPA PMRII w/ a ARC Coup De Grace action & a MPA 26" 1:8 barrel. About every tenth shot the bolt lift is tight (nothing too crazy) and I see minor ejector marks. Primer looks OK.

I did not do much load development on this just settled on something that had a low SD on velocity. Don't want to punish my barrel or brass & I'm not shooting past 1200 yards so dropping a little velocity should not hurt me. Should I find a lower velocity node?

I've seen a few things from 4 or five years ago on this, but the latest Hodgdon burn chart has these two very close together H at 133 and A at 135. I only ask the question because A4350 is significantly cheaper than H4350 right now.

Anyone use A4350 lately and how did it compare to H4350? Thanks