Hello Snipers hide. I have hit a wall. I bought a Browning X-Bolt Mountain Pro. I want to mount my Kahles k318i on it but I can't seem to find the correct way. I thought by going with the Talley rings specifically designed for the X-bolt I would be good to go but I do not have the proper eye relief. The scope sits too far forward due to the short tube of the scope. I'm thinking the scope just won't work with these rings and I need to get something with a longer tube or use a pic rail and rings. The scope came off an AR10 I have so there were no issues with that rifle. I only need another inch or so rearward to get the proper eye relief needed. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Vortex VIPER HD 5-25X50 FFP VR3 MRAD in stock! $1099.99 https://cstactical.com/vortex-viper-hd-5-25x50-ffp/

Vortex VIPER HD 5-25X50 FFP VR3 MOA in stock! $1099.99 https://cstactical.com/vortex-viper-hd-5-25x50-ffp/

When success rides on the perfect shot, rely on the exceptional versatility and optical performance of Viper® HD. From big game to predators, there’s a proven model for every hunting application. Each member of the Viper® HD family delivers outstanding image clarity, resolution, and sharpness to ensure your target comes into view with sharp detail. Viper® HD also boasts enhanced features for unmatched accuracy at extended ranges while also excelling in the low light of dawn and dusk when game is most active.

Looking to sell or trade Vortex Razor HD spotting scope. 27x60x85 straight. This is like brand new, not a mark on it. Comes with 2 eye pieces (wide angle and MRad reticule) lens covers, scope black cover, original box, lens cloth and direction booklet.
Has the arca rail for attachment built into the body.

I also have a pelican Vault v525 with foam cut to fit it, the 2nd eye piece and a table top tripod for spotting at the bench. The pelican case has wheels and pull out handle to be used as carry on luggage.
Willing to separate for the right price.

$1575 shipped for everything shipped insured.

If you don’t want the pelican case and tripod $1450

Trades: looking for 15x56 binos or certificates that I could use to buy binos.

Action has 1200 rounds on it so it’s smooth as butter. Barrel has 110 rounds on it. Shoots FGMM lights out.

- MPA marked Curtis vector 3-lug SA.
- Bartlein 1.25” straight, 26”, 1:7.5 spun up by MPA. Threaded 5/8x24.
- triggertech primary. Can swap it out for a elfmann for $100 more.
- APA fat bastard Gen 3

$1,400 shipped

Like the title says. If you are using the Hornady HiT hit indicators, how are you attaching them to the posts/targets?

I have 2 v3 magnetospeeds with a mount ill double check which mount system it is when I get home on Monday one of the bayonets doesn't work due to a bullet strike but the other one works perfectly. Asking 150 for both of them.

Price is shipped. PP F&F or Venmoe. You cover fees if using G&S. Offered in lower 48 excluding Alaska and Hawaii

SOLD - 1 - Zermatt Action Wrench for TL3, SR3, Origin and RimX. $65.00

2 - NF 20 MOA base for LA 700. $55.00

SOLD - 3 - Stainless 700 SA BDL complete bottom metal with action screws $125.00

4 - Remington 700 SA ADL trigger guard and box mag / follower $60.00

Loading Lapua Brass with 105 bergers and H4350. Started at 38g and wound up with pressure signs right away at 38.5/39. Any recommendations?

Back when I was taught how to mount scopes, I had to have a way to torque screws correctly. I saw ads for the Wheeler torque screwdriver, but I also saw unfavorable reviews. I was afraid a torque screwdriver that cheap would fall apart. Torque screwdrivers from industrial-tool companies can cost over $300, so I figured there might be a reason.

I got myself a beam torque wrench instead, and I used a 1/4" magnetic socket to hold bits. Has anyone else tried this? It seems to work just fine, it was cheap, it never has to be adjusted, and it should last forever.

The other day I found a used Sturtevant-Richmont driver for $43, so I grabbed it. Easier to stow than the beam job.

At least it's a mystery to me! Ar15 300 blkout, bolt doesn't lock on last round. I know this can be a common problem but the issue I'm having is it doesn't do it on all ammo. My last trip to the range I fired 25 rounds each of Fiocchi Range Dynamic 150 gn, Remington 200 gn. and my reloads of 15 gn. of H110. The Fiocchi load, eject fine about 4:00 oclock as all of round do but didn't lock the bolt back same as the Remingtons although I had one failure to eject as it tried to feed the next round and it locked the bolt once out of 25 rounds. My reloads, load, fire, eject and lock the bolt every time including a prior trip the range when I fired only my reloads. My reloads are very close to the Fiocchis in bullet type and FPS should also be very close based on published numbers have not chronoed them. The only difference that I can think of is my reloads have a longer C.O.L, Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Had this for 2 years, always kept in protective cover. Didn't use it much. Comes with phoneskope adapter.

$1500 + actual shipping or face to face in north Idaho. Paypal F&F or Zelle.

Manners stock w/adjustable cheek piece

Anarchy bottom metal w/action screws

Area 419 weighted arcade rail

Safety flag.

$850.00 shipped

30 Cal Hellfire Match, used while waiting for my 6.5 match to show up probably 40 rounds through it. The adapter is 5/8x24 and is new.

$130 firm shipped

Looking for a couple TL3 223 bolt heads and 223 barrels. Prefer barrels to be new. Send me a PM with what you have.

I am looking for 1 more. Looking for a new Proof steel 223 prefit. Can be for origin or TL3.

Front Range isn't showing any in stock.

I have a 26in bartlein 1-7.5 twist chambered in 6 Creed on a impact 737. It was a great shooter with around 0.3 moa groups and SD's around 4 for at 2945 fps for about 600 round. Since then I have a big increases in velocity with about every 80 - 100 rounds. It will just anywhere from 35 to 40 fps and my SD's have slowly moved up to around 11. Now my velocities are up around 3080 fps and if i try to change my load at all i get pressure signs even though i am near a minimum charge of powder. Also I have to rezero every couple of weeks. My groups are still around 0.5 moa at 100 yards. I have tried different brass and powder and primers with no change. I have close to 1600 rounds on this barrel. I am wondering if I should pull it off and get a new barrel. My buddy has the same spec barrel as me on a impact and his will shoot lights out with what ever he throws in it. If someone has a recommendation for something else please let me know.

Sig 320 x5 max
1100obo takes it all

4 17rd mags with henning +6mag extension

2 17s with Taran extension

1 21rd

Springer precision tungsten guide rod

Springer precision extended mag release

Gray guns grip module

Gray guns trigger

Double alpha belt size 38

Cr speed mag holders

Ghost hydra P holster

Stoger boss hanger

Was used solely as a uspsa gun for 5 matches

Everything is carry optics legal

Full match spot available that includes the train up day.
Squadding opens tomorrow so get it now before you miss getting to shoot with your buddies

This is cross posted and FCFS, no holds
$375 is what I paid
PayPal, Zelle, or Venmo as last resort

Mint 16" A4. I had the trigger replaced with a compatible wilson two stage match trigger, Geissele rail installed (original is gone) and had D wilson profesisonally cut out a pocket to adjust the gas valve as needed (matches the original). Muzzle device will not be included (griffin OTB). Have about 150 rounds through it. Comes in the original case etc. No Trades*


$3500 Shipped

Searching for insight on an incident I had with my Tavor 7 paired with an RC2 7.62 which in turn led to a baffle strike. (haha he bonked his can what an idiot)

The Tavor 7 barrel has that locking nut that is used with its muzzle devices which causes a lot of "run out"? Not sure if that is the correct term but a lot of threads left in the muzzle device that don't thread onto the barrel due to having to engage the locking nut to time and tighten the muzzle device to the barrel. The muzzle device used was the surefire socom brake used to quick attach the RC2 7.62.

So I fit the brake to the gun and zero an eotech. Works great. I then shoot several subs (15-20) through the suppressor landing them on target to a steel plate. Everything working as intended, no problems. Then I load up some sellier and bellot NATO 147gr. First supersonic round misses off target and my friend and I are perplexed. Inspecting the can we notice the obvious but small mark of brass from the projectile, we can see the last two baffles and the end cap have barely been struck by the brass leaving the obvious mark on the endcap.

Now right before this cartridge was fired we were changing the gas settings on the Tavor 7. As per the manual the gas system is designed to be adjusted by sticking a 7.62 cartridge in and turning the gas adjuster/key(?) to the desired setting. Now when I had first received the gun I tested this with the same s&b nato 147 grain ammo and actually separated the projectile from the cartridge. Not the best system imo.

So did I accidently cant or angle the projectile while doing this, in turn making the projectile all *warbly* causing the baffle strike? Or was this caused by the run out of the muzzle brake not being able to be threaded onto the barrel as much as perhaps an AR10 barrel? I've heard rumor of this runout being a potential for baffle strikes. I do have a couple RC2 cans and have never attached them incorrectly, it would be hard to do so imo.

Out of frustration we continued to shoot the 147 nato round after re-attaching the can and inspecting the unfired rounds. We continuously missed the target we were using to zero. The surefire rep who I spoke with said this means we were still having baffle strikes if we were still missing. I'm a little lost and searching for insight. All the subs ran fine and hit on target, none of the supers hit and we couldn't even tell where they were landing. Is the RC2 not meant for the Tavor? Should some sort of direct thread can be used instead?

Any insights, thoughts, or jokes welcome below.

Last bit of 6.5 Creedmoor Brass that I have.
All Hornady . Fired from a bolt gun
Actual ONCE fired
500 pcs for $160 shipped
Thanks for looking
Cross listed

Badger Ordnance M2013 Action with new unfired Proof Research 1:10 Carbon Fiber Barrel and a Triggertech Diamond Pro Curve Trigger. Rifle sits in a Manners T6 Gap Camo stock with Mini Chassis. Action had less than 200 rounds before rebarreling to this .308. Rifle weights 8lbs 10oz. $2800 shipped for the package. Would sell stock separately if and on IF, someone buys the barreled first!

Time to do some spring cleaning. Selling my brand new never been opened 4-28. Have mkm flip caps and a accuracy first bubble level going with it. It is for sale not on sale but with it never seen the sun or anything i feel is fair. Asking 3200 for the package. Have plenty of vouches. View attachment IMG_7183.jpegView attachment IMG_7184.jpegView attachment IMG_7185.jpegView attachment IMG_7186.jpeg
View attachment IMG_7182.jpeg

I just bought a remington 700 vls (laminate stock) the barrel fits tight in the channel, sides and bottom. This is a used rifle and previous owner put this stock on without pillars or bedding, I would at like to put pillars in for now but curious about free floating. I have heard remington does not float their barrels. This is my first remington and I want it to be right. Thanks to you all.

I am looking for a Nightforce CFS mil-XT spotting scope.

Not a gen2, had it for years. Been a good can overall. 45, so it was on a HK45C for a long time and at times a 9mm HK combat competition, even some subsonic 300 blackout. Ran about 100 rounds of 9mm out of a G19 today, mostly blazer brass 115 but some 148 HST to check zero and had this happen. Everything ran, functioned and sounded like it should but I stopped as I saw it get to this point. Took some pics then some pics after I removed it. Looks like it had some sort of epoxy on it, though half ass applied. Any thoughts on what it's suposed to be and thoughts on just JB welding the bitch back in?