Hey all,
Selling a few scopes to clear some funds for house projects. Below are three scopes that are in great condition.
New in box LRP S3 6-36 Mrad $1600-----SOLD
Steiner T5XI 3-15 SCR Mil with JP mount $900-----SOLD
Trijicon credo 1-8 MOA Red/ Green W mount $800--------SOLD

Let me know if you have any questions. NOT LOOKING FOR TRADES ONLY CASH.

Thinking about parting ways with my 6 dasher set up. I had it put together last year by A team precision and have only had time to shoot one match with it.
It has a Manners PRS 1 stock, brand new Impact 737 Action (150 rounds on it), trigger tech trigger, 26” Hart barrel. Scope is a Bushnell XRS 6-36.
I also have all the components to load for it.
Appx 5 pounds Varget, 800-900 Berger 105s, 200 pcs Alpha brass (55 virgin), whidden dies. I’m sure I’m forgetting some details. Message with any questions. Located in Crossett, AR.
$4700 for everything. Shipping would be on buyer.

$205 per box, 5 boxes available (2,500 total projectiles)

All are same lot, all unopened.

Shipping will be added at my cost or buyer can provide a label, I would expect $7-9 for a box and $25 for all 5 boxes.

Can take all the usual electronic payment methods or check/USPS MO if needed.

Selling my Athlon Heras spr 15-60x56 that's in great shape. I couldn't be happier with the glass, even up to 40 or 50 power. Tracks perfect.

Comes with everything in the picture:
EGW rings
Level
Caps
Box/sunshade/ etc.

Sold

MDT Carbon Rifle stock in black. REM 700 short action with precision bottom metal. Has 211 rounds and is mint. Includes a couple extras

• Backfire butt pad
• MDT adjustable butt pad plate (not pictured but included)
• MDT 1/2” weighted buttstock spacer

$1,250 $1.150 shipped

For sale are boxes of new unopened ADG brass.
4 boxes 7 PRC all same lot. $360 shipped
4 boxes of 300 SAUM all same lot. $360 shipped.
Electronic payment accepted.
No trades needed unless it's a S&B fixed 6x42.

Can you experienced folks share your thinking/ considerations regarding flush cup type (when you use Full rotation, Limited, or Nonrotating cups?) and mount locations?

I have seen folks mount them on both sides of the bolt, sometimes with rear swivel high, mid and low on the stock. Usually see the front mount toward the front of the stock, but have also seen them mounted toward the rear of the forearm and being used to grip the sling as a shooting aid.

I am about to add some QD flush cups to a bolt hunting rifle. I have very limited experience with them and have always had my sling mounted in the traditional location. Figured you folks could steer me toward the most comfortable/ practical setup.

I need a FFP / MIL scope for the PRS rig I'm putting together and I've took a shine to the Nightforce 7-35X.

I realize that for PRS I'll mostly use it in the middle of the magnification range to get the wider field of view but I'm hoping that with the fine centre dot I can also use it in F class where the extra magnification will come in useful.

Anyways I've looked at the MIL-XT and Tremor3 reticles, both have the "Christmas tree" type reticle which I have never used before but I feel that for PRS where I'd probably be holding over as opposed to dialling such a reticle would be very useful.

I personally like the MIL-XT better (its cleaner / not so cluttered) but I'm curious what those with PRS experience under their belts think as to which is the best fit.

From what I have read the Tremor reticle is very well thought out and can be tailored for any situation (once you get your head around it).

This will be my first non MOA scope too so that will be another thing to learn.

This rifle is new (other than test firing by WTO)

Action: West Texas Ordnance Caprock (Lonepeak Fuzion alpine cut) with switch lug
Stock: Foundation Gideon in Foundation hunt color
Trigger: TriggerTech Special
DBM: Hawkins Hunter
Barrels: 24" 6.5 Creed and 24" 7 SAW, Both barrels were test fired for accuracy by WTO, they are similar to a Medium Palma in contour. Both barrrels are coated black with blended thread protectors.

Located near DFW TX

No trades

so , i built a 300 norma on an mpr BA comp chassis . when i built it , i installed a Fat Bastard brake on it and it doesnt quite do the job well enough . The REcoil is fairly high and it doesnt really bother me but it keeps pulling my bipod off the arca no matter how hard i tighten it and it would be nice to get back on target a little easier . So , question is , what do you guys use on big magnums ?

6.5 CM chambered by Altus shooting is available for sale

there are 2 small scratches on the chassis that is shown in the picture.
Specs:
Defiance Ruckus Tactical Medium action black Nitrided
Proof Research 6.5 7.5tw Sendero light contour (should be around 600 Rds down the barrel)
Area 419 Hellfire self timing brake (DLC is belmished)
Triggertech Primary Trigger flat shoe
MDT HNT26 Folding Arca

will include 50 pieces of new Peterson srp brass for free.
(Scope is not included)
load for Barns LRX 127grs will be provided.

Price: 3000 Plus shipping to FFL

Not sure where best to post this, assume this forum is section is as good as any.

I am planning to fly to Europe which likely involves going through the USA with a rifle.
I've done a lot of research and found the requirements for travelling to the USA (need a ATF 6NIA form) but have read that it is not required if just transiting the US. I have applied for a 6NIA form anyway but not sure it'll be approved as I don't meet the requirements (don't have a hunting permit or a US match invitation).

I have read if you don't clear customs that you don't need any paperwork for the US, but I'll likely be going through LAX and need to change terminals which requires me to clear customs.

Has any of the foreigners on the Hide been in this situation and can offer guidance?

Seems these folks don’t give up. I think I must have been one of the very first to get these text messages…Pay now or else. When the date passed, the messages went away.

Well today I got another one. My toll with “EZ Pay” still needs to be paid

Messages come from an extended number so I checked it out.

Seems awfully strange that the Florida DOT Collects its tolls in the PHILIPPINES? .

Stainless Benchmark, 4-groove, 16.5tw, button rifled, 26" or shorter finish length rimfire barrel blank.

Asking $440 shipped.

Excellent condition NF 4-16x42 F1 model # C615 with Mil-XT reticle. Comes as pictured with box and flip caps. Glass and mechanics are perfect, a couple very light/small cosmetic marks on the tube.

$2140 shipped
**sold to faylix**

Im trying to find where i can get one of those 3d printed powder covers for the autotrickler v4 that blocks powder from getting under the scale. I added a Pic that I found but he could not remember where he got it. Thanks.

I have been shooting a Bergara for NRL 22 and want to upgrade to a Vudoo eventually but don't want to spend that much at the moment.... So I was thinking I could buy the chassis now and use it for the B14 for now, then get a Vudoo Barreled action later.

Not sure if that's the best plan, but seems logical while sitting here with my 1st drink of the night..

I would like to know what more experienced shooters think and then which chassis... I was looking at MPA and MDT but don't have any experience with either but I really want to look cool, even if I don't hit anything.

The Dynamic Carbine Course is designed to train participants in rapid engagements, covering distances from 5 to 200 yards. Students will develop the skills to seamlessly transition from rapid, close-quarter engagements to effectively establishing positions for engaging longer-range targets up to 200 yards. This course enhances fundamental carbine techniques while emphasizing the critical mental adaptability required to switch between the two engagement methods.

Time & Location​

Jun 14, 2025, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Sanford, NC, USA

So just a question,

With the new ruling from the supreme court, a bunch of cases are going back down to the lower courts. I'm in NY. From my understanding if Maryland where to overturn the AWB, states such as Maryland, NJ, NY would also be overturned? Does anyone know when this case is going before the 4th circuit for a decision. I know it's just a pipe dream they would overturn it, but I'm curious.

Anyone using or tried it ? Did a search and nothing came up so thought I would ask .

Area 419 autotrickler cup and 3d printed parts
$80 OBO shipped

30 cal anchor brake and a 5/8x24TPI DT adapter. $45 shipped each.

*** Special thanks to hide member reubenski who's setup with barrel flats inspired this rabbit hole. ***


The last couple of years I've moved to a modular rifle system that uses Bighorn actions and a pile of interchangeable barrels in various chamberings and states of wear. The weak link in all of this was always the time and equipment required to swap the barrels around. Thinking about this led me to develop a system (based around a barrel vise) for quickly changing rifle barrels in the field (or at home). It came out better than I thought, and I had a batch of them made (instead of just one) because I'm certain other shooters would like the capacity it offers.






Here's a quick demo video:


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To lay it out in more detail:

In order to remove or install a barrel using this method, you need to get a grip on the barrel and on the action or stock.





GRIPPING THE BARREL

This is what the Ross Vise is designed to do.

INSTALL THE VISE
Loosen the cap nuts, then slip the vise around your barrel with the square drive recesses facing the muzzle. Hand tighten the cap nuts.







TORQUE THE CAP NUTS
Tighten the nuts using a torque wrench, ratchet, or breaker bar with a 15/16 socket (a deep socket will work best), a 15/16 end wrench, or an adjustable wrench. If using a torque wrench, torquing the cap nuts to the same spec as the barrel is tightened to has always proved sufficient to remove it without slippage. The stock or chassis makes for great leverage so it is easy to get the nuts tight, we recommend you turn the rifle vertically. Avoid using the scope or scope rings for leverage.








TORQUE THE BARREL
Insert a torque wrench, ratchet, or breaker bar into one of the 1/2" square drive recesses on the face of the vise. If you desire to protect the finish of your vise, we recommend using a 3/8" drive with a 1/2" adapter, or a short 1/2" drive extension, in order to keep the wrench clear of the vise. The vise is made of anodized aluminum, and while it is durable, it will show marks if you repeatedly hit it with steel!






GRIPPING THE ACTION / STOCK

Now that we have plenty of leverage on the barrel, we need leverage on the action. Exactly how we get this will depend upon how tight your barrel is installed, what type of stock or chassis you have, and what you are comfortable with. Here's a few options:


GRIP THE STOCK - AND POP THE BARREL LOOSE
If you run a light torque value on your barrels, it is possible to remove and install the barrel using only the leverage afforded by the stock. In testing we have found 30 ft-lb to be easy to reach, and 40 ft-lb to be within reach - though no longer "easy". The exact technique used matters, place your foot at the butt of the rifle and put the grip into your calf. Many competitive shooters run torque values this light on their barrels with great success. The biggest downside that we see with running a lightly torqued barrel is you are a little bit closer to having your barrel come loose. If your barrel becomes loose during a competition or a hunt, your ability to hit your target will be compromised, severely!







INSIDE ACTION WRENCH AND A T-HANDLE
By using an action wrench with a T-handle in combination with the vise, you are essentially exerting the same forces on your barrel and action as you would installing and removing barrels the traditional way, in a shop, with a bench mounted vise and an inside action wrench. By using a strap around the T-handle, you will keep the assembly from falling out of the rifle and save yourself a lot of frustration. This method will easily support the 80 ft-lb torque that is the recommended maximum for the vise, if you desire your barrels to be that tight. The only downsides to this method are that it requires you to own an inside action wrench for your action(s), and that it can be a little slower to set up, especially if you have an adjustable cheek piece in the way which must first be removed.







PIPE CLAMP
Using an inexpensive iron pipe clamp (my clamp came from Harbor Freight for ~ $10, and my 3/4" pipe came from the hardware store for less than that), tighten the clamp around your chassis or stock, and use the pipe as the leverage to remove and install your barrel. Add some rubber to the jaws (another $2 at the hardware store) to avoid damage to your stock or chassis. We recommend clamping around the recoil lug/front action screw juncture, and proceeding with caution! When using this method you are transferring force from the clamp to the stock - and then from the stock to the action via the action screws and any bedding surrounding the recoil lug. We have had great success with this method and have not damaged anything, but the potential is there. Be especially cautious about using this method with a lightly built wood, fiberglass, or carbon fiber stock. In our testing we used this method on a bedded rifle in a chassis - and after 100 removals and installs at 80 ft-lb the bedding was still tight and showed no signs of being worse for the wear, nor did any other components.








"MPA ROD"
For those with the popular Masterpiece Arms chassis, there is a recess behind the grip that will ALMOST take a 1 1/2" x 1/2" piece of aluminum stock (as seen in the demo video at the top of the page). I purchased a 2 foot piece that size from the local metal supply for ~ $10, and then spend about 10 minutes with a flap disc on an angle grinder rounding off the edges and taking the last two inches down from .500" to .475" so it would slip into this recess. As with the pipe clamp method, you are transferring force through your action screws and bedding, so proceed with caution. For testing purposes, I installed and removed a barrel set to 120 ft-lbs using this method with no ill effects, however I absolutely do not recommend that much torque, nor do I take responsibility if you manage to damage your stock using this technique. Additionally, if you are particular about the finish on your chassis inside this pocket, this will scratch it slightly, so proceed with that knowledge





If you're interested, there's even more detail at the site I set up: www.rossprecisionmt.com.

Does anyone have experience flying with reloading components? Powder and primers will pose an obvious challenge but what about bullets or brass? I will be traveling out of state and be flying with southwest. I am curious if I would be able to buy products at a shop I know is in the area we are going to. Thanks in advance.