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308 AR10 Build Info/Picture Thread

I finally got my 338FED upper mostly assembled, still waiting on WC to send their Intermediate gas tube, it measures 13.25”
Upper build is as follows
2aArmament Xanthos Upper Receiver
16” WC 338FED
RifleSpeed AGB
WC gas tube
SmokeComposites HG
JP VMOS w/ JP HP Bolt
SiCo Hybrid
NF 4-14x40 SHV FFP in NF mount
 

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STOP ! OK, I've had enough. I want to sell some stuff I haven't shot for a few years and buy or build a AR-10.

I want to replace my Sako TRG-22 I don't shoot anymore. Looking for help for a 16-18 inch barrel AR-10 build that can shoot 1/2 (ish) MOA with premium optics.
I like my Hk MR556 gas piston rifle over my AR-15 DI guns only cause of the easier clean up and put up.

Does Georga make a piston GAP 308?

Sorry for the intrusion, but I need help on a build / buy
 
STOP ! OK, I've had enough. I want to sell some stuff I haven't shot for a few years and buy or build a AR-10.

I want to replace my Sako TRG-22 I don't shoot anymore. Looking for help for a 16-18 inch barrel AR-10 build that can shoot 1/2 (ish) MOA with premium optics.
I like my Hk MR556 gas piston rifle over my AR-15 DI guns only cause of the easier clean up and put up.

Does Georga make a piston GAP 308?

Sorry for the intrusion, but I need help on a build / buy
wrong thread to be posting in. you really should start your own thread, or post in the GAP thread if you really want help or assistance. JMHO.
 
Any experience with Faxon 308/6.5 barrels here? Friend of mine is trying to convince me to build a large frame gasser and I am intrigued by their lighter weight profiles that Faxon puts out.

Is there a tested recipe for building large frames? It seems like a ton of trial and error compared to a small frame.
 
Any experience with Faxon 308/6.5 barrels here? Friend of mine is trying to convince me to build a large frame gasser and I am intrigued by their lighter weight profiles that Faxon puts out.

Is there a tested recipe for building large frames? It seems like a ton of trial and error compared to a small frame.
I had pretty good results with one of their 308 barrels, .75-1 moa with good ammo. I would not recommend their 6.5 barrels right now. The feed cone on their barrels is too small and a lot of the 6.5 projectiles I tried, especially secant ogives, will jam below the cone. 147 eld-m would chamber, but would damage the tips on the way in, 140 hybrid targets would completely jam up. I don’t know if they’ve done anything to fix this issue yet.
 
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Thanks for the reply, slightly leaning to 308 anyways.

Could one be reliably served with an Aero M5 set/Criterion or Faxon barrel/JP SCS/Aero BCG?

Any other BCGs to recommend?
 
Those are all good options, Faxon also has contract overrun .308 BCGs on sale right now which I’ve heard are pretty good. I have one but am waiting on my barrel to show up before I can use it so can’t comment on how it performs.
 
How would that general list compare to a LMT/KAC?

Obviously its not one of those, just trying to get a frame of reference. Kinda looking for a “BCM” grade large frame rifle.
 
What’s your intended use for it? Homebuilds can be finicky and require some tuning. If you want off the rack “BCM” grade, I would look at the Sig 716, Seekins SP10, SCAR 17S. Plenty of great rifles built off the Aero receivers though
 
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I have a Faxon 6.5CM barrel in a Aero M5 receiver, have only been shooting factory ammo. No problems at all with feeding, with various types of factory ammo.

pic thread:
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What’s your intended use for it? Homebuilds can be finicky and require some tuning. If you want off the rack “BCM” grade, I would look at the Sig 716, Seekins SP10, SCAR 17S. Plenty of great rifles built off the Aero receivers though
General use carbine from 50-600 yards for when something a bit larger than a 12.5” 5.56 is needed. This is not an ”HD” or “truck” gun. Think large frame recce rifle and it may give a better image of what I’m wanting to do.

The Seekins is a bit into the SPR type direction. The Scar 17 with some extras would fulfill the purpose quite well, but I’m cautious due to the seemingly lack of spare parts if something were to break. Not to mention the price tag.

At the 17’s price point, I’d probably just get a KAC SR-25 CC.

I don’t mind too much tuning, just want it to be able to run 147/150gr and 175/178gr class ammo reliably.
 
General use carbine from 50-600 yards for when something a bit larger than a 12.5” 5.56 is needed. This is not an ”HD” or “truck” gun. Think large frame recce rifle and it may give a better image of what I’m wanting to do.

The Seekins is a bit into the SPR type direction. The Scar 17 with some extras would fulfill the purpose quite well, but I’m cautious due to the seemingly lack of spare parts if something were to break. Not to mention the price tag.

At the 17’s price point, I’d probably just get a KAC SR-25 CC.

I don’t mind too much tuning, just want it to be able to run 147/150gr and 175/178gr class ammo reliably.
@PBWalsh just a suggestion, you should start a thread with all these questions and discussion. After you've completed your build, come back and post your masterpiece in this Pic & Build Info thread. JMHO, nothing more.

Happy Thanksgiving! (y) (y) (y)


ETA: pic thread
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So this is my second .308 build. I wanted to see what a pistol version would do. Weighs in around 7 lbs without optics.

Build sheet:

PSA lower
Gibbz Arms SIde Charger upper
SSA-E trigger
Ballistic Arms barrel
JP Enterprises LMOS (Gosh these are expensive)
SLR
Solo handguard
Superlative Arms adjustable gas block
SBA-3 Brace
5.6oz buffer with heavy spring
Lantac Dragon SIlencerCO ASR (I'm hoping this tames the muzzle flip)

I've limited experience in building these machines but this one flowed together after the AR15 experience and my first 308 build. Does anyone else have a 308 pistol? If anyone has any experience with the Saint Victor 308 (28" OAL) please PM me, I've got some questions.
View attachment 7746629View attachment 7746630View attachment 7746631
Got out and shot this bad boy today. After getting the gas block adjusted, it shot well. These big boy pistols are quite something to shoot. Exhilarating! I was shooting some 168gr BTHP I loaded up for another semi-auto I have and tore a ragged hole in the target 3 inches wide at 50 yards with this Eotech. I think some lighter 147gr bullets would serve the purpose of this firearm better. Also, I was getting quite the blast of gas in the face from the back of this Gibbz upper. I'll have to shore that up somehow.
 
Aero M5E1 Builder’s set
Criterion barrel turned by Craddock
22” 6.5CM with Rifle+2” gas port
Nitrided by WMD
RCA Adjustable Gas Ti BCG
Hiperfire Trigger
Radian Raptor CH
Magpul Bipod, K2+ Grip & PRS3 Stock
4.5-18x LRTSi in Warne QD Rings
Q Full Nelson

Shoots sub-moa all day long with factory Hornady and has zero clean/cold bore offset. I really need to get the scope into a 20-30MOA mount because I run out of elevation dial at about 1000yds.

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Fun build with aero upper and lower, lpk, bcg, adj gas block, centurion rail, dead air brake, imod stock, kak value line 16" cut down so brake and barrel at 16". Windy and did not have my stand brace so target moved on last 2 at 100yds using suprlus Dag. Pretty happy with it
 

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I finally got my 338FED upper mostly assembled, still waiting on WC to send their Intermediate gas tube, it measures 13.25”
Upper build is as follows
2aArmament Xanthos Upper Receiver
16” WC 338FED
RifleSpeed AGB
WC gas tube
SmokeComposites HG
JP VMOS w/ JP HP Bolt
SiCo Hybrid
NF 4-14x40 SHV FFP in NF mount
What’s the weight on that? Looks great.

The first time I held the 2A Xanthos complete rifles at their booth at SHOT, I had to check that there were BCGs in them. They felt like feathers.
 
Give precision bolt guns a run for their money with this much lighter 9.5 LB big block custom 6.5 CM gas gun! Built by MSTN on a Seekins SP10 Builder's Kit (fully ambi) with the finest of components: Proof Research 20" SS 6.5 CM barrel with Rifle +2 gas system, weighing in at 3 LB 10 OZ = 58 OZ; SLR 0.875" adjustable gas block; Surefire MB762 Brake; Geissele 7.62 Super Charging Handle; JP Full Mass Operating System bolt carrier group; TriggerTech Adaptable Trigger set to 3.0 LB riding on V7 titanium fire control pins; 7.62 carbine length recoil system with JP polished recoil spring and H3 buffer; Magpul MOE SL-S buttstock; Magpul MOE grip; Magpul 20-RD 7.62 magazine.


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AeroPrecision Enhanced Core
Lantac HP NiB BCG
Criterion. 308 Heavy Hybrid 22"
Triggertech Special 1.5#
APW Raptor Brake
Viper PST2 3-15x
LuthAR Stock
GrayOps CNC Flat Plate and MLOK Wt. Kit
 

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Thought I’d posted this here, but don’t see it.

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2A Arms Xanthos receiver set and hand guard
Smoke Composites rifle-length butt stock with extra thick Magpul pad
Tubb’s spring and whatever buffer needed to run with the BCG I’m running at the time
V7 lightweight titanium bolt carrier or the KAK full weight weight carrier
All V7 or 2A ‘guts’…small parts, pins, springs, bolts, selector, etc.
Geissele trigger
Ergo grip
V7 inconel gas tube and Master of Arms adjustable titanium gas block
Faxon pencil-profile 16” barrel chambered in .308; AAC 51T muzzle device (for now)
Griffin offset BUIS
Aero Precision lightweight scope mount
Night Force NXS 1-8 scope

Everything Cerakoted burnt bronze, including several 10 and 25-round mags. Everything but the scope done in a ‘battle worn’ finish…basically a light mist of flat black shot over the burnt bronze and then partially sanded off.

Did the same on this one’s AR15 little brother in 5.56 on a 2A Balios Lite set (the original design). Similar build but with an Aimpoint red dot:

i-zQzB47V.jpg


^ older pic with a S&B short dot, also 1-8 zoom, now on a different 5.56 upper. Fun fact, I pre-paid for both those receiver sets, and waited for very specific (and matching) serial #s to come up in the production rotation…had to wait almost a year after I finished the Balios Lite build for the Xanthos set.

Shoots nice once I got the new NF scope dialed in (final POA was the ‘8‘ above the x ring):

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And minimal POI shift with a different can. Different target here of course, POA was the vertical hash mark between the 8 and the 7:

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Geez Talk about some nice guns! Anyone have any info on break in for brand new aero? Should I suppress it right off the bat and will I need to put the adjustable gas block on? I plan on running some patches through the barrel that's about it. Then shooting the shit out of it. Running a tbac 7 can.
 
Here’s my AR10 I’m building in 6.5 creedmoor
Waiting on some parts to get cerakoted to match.

Stag set
Geissele trigger
JP HP308 bolt
JP silent buffer
VLTOR stock
Rainer arms match 22” + 2 gas system barrel
Superlative gas block
Sgt Arms arca rail/ handguard
image.jpg
 
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Geez Talk about some nice guns! Anyone have any info on break in for brand new aero? Should I suppress it right off the bat and will I need to put the adjustable gas block on? I plan on running some patches through the barrel that's about it. Then shooting the shit out of it. Running a tbac 7 can.
Standard break in procedure, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, shoot, clean etc etc. until you get bored. I would not break it in with the suppressor, extra fouling from suppressed operation and having the suppressor on there will make it that much harder to clean between shots. These procedures from the X-caliber website are generally consistent across manufacturers.

"You should perform appropriate fire and clean cycles to normalize the bore surface. Each fire and clean cycle consists of a certain number of rounds fired (one to five) followed by a cleaning procedure (see below for reference), to be completed a certain number of times (1-25). These vary depending on the type of steel of the barrel, bore/groove diameter, velocity and pressure of any given round, etc. This is to be used as a guide. Some barrels may require more or less shots or cycles to break in than what is listed here.

416R Stainless Steel: Fire One Round then Clean: Do this 5-10 times. Fire Three Times then Clean: Do this 1 time. Fire Five Times then Clean: Do this 1 time.

4140 Chrome Moly:
Fire One Round then Clean: Do this 5-25 times. Fire Three Times then Clean: Do this 2 times. Fire Five Times then Clean: Do this 1 time.

Each Firing Cycle (1 shot, 3 shot or 5 shot) should be followed by cleaning the bore (see steps below for reference):

1.) Using a one-piece, coated cleaning rod with a properly sized bore brush (wet with your favorite non-foaming bore solvent), carefully clean the bore from the chamber end toward the muzzle (3-5 passes is usually sufficient). If you cannot clean from the chamber end, be sure to use a bore-guide so as not to damage the crown or muzzle end of the rifling. Let sit 30-60 seconds before moving on to the next step.

2.) Push a dry patch down the bore. (2-3 times)

3.) Put a few of drops of oil on a patch and push that down the bore so as to leave a thin film of oil inside the bore.

4.) Begin a new cycle: Fire your next round or rounds in your next firing cycle and repeat cleaning as necessary."
 
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Aero M5 Upper/Lower
Criterion 6.5CM barrel cut by Craddock Precision
SLR Rifleworks M-lok Handguard and adjustable gas block
Surefire SOCOM 762 Mini
Vortex Gen III Razor 1x10 in a 1.54 Reptilia mount and an RMR at 12 oclock.
Geissele SDC, Battle Arms ambi selector, Radian 7.62 CH, SF M640DF, Tango Down Sstubby vert grip, and BCM pistol Grip. VLTOR A5 buffer setup.

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How does it shoot?
I havent zeroed it with the Razor yet but I took it out when I first got it finished up and put 100ish rounds through it. It was amazing. It turned out to be really soft shooting, extraction/ejection pattern was perfect and its surprisingly quiet with the SOCOM Mini. Once my other four Cans clear the mini will probably just stay on this one. Just a really solid "battle rifle" setup. I have a buddy that has a chrono that i want to get some data with if we can ever make the time.
 
Question, the armalite ar10 carbine buffer tube that measures 8" uses the standard length ar buffers correct ?

I've got a pws mk216 in 308 that's been horribly over gassed with a can since day one. Ran like a top without. Shot them an email detailing my experiences and was told well that's just how our guns run. Okay. Bs answer but whatever.

Got the heaviest shorty carbine buffer I could find (heavybuffers.com) and a stiffer sprung from the same place and still no joy. All it succeeded in doing was making it kick like a mule and put even more gas in my face. Heavy buffer stock spring seemed to work best.

Fast forward several years and a few hundred rounds later and the gun begins to have problems. Skipping over rounds in the mag, lite primer strikes and it's just beating itself up.

Another email to pws detailing my experience with my initial contact with pws and my current issues with the gun and I got a completely different response from them. They were very apologetic about the first contact experience and very helpful with getting issues resolved this time. They sent me a label and I sent them the gun.

THREE MONTHS LATER! I finally get my gun back. Best I could tell all they did was change the gas block. It went from a four position to the new three. And it shot like crap.

It was always a solid .75-1 moa gun, better on occasion. Now we're deep in 2 moa territory. Started playing with the buffer/spring setups again and got it back down to about 1 moa. Still a 1:30-2:00 ejection pattern and still a pile of gas in the face suppressed. But, to their credit it function with all but one of six loads I shot. Federal premium with the berger 168 hybrid hunter was the only one that caused a malfunction. Ammo is way hot for a gasser.

Through a little more research I ordered a Tubbs flatwire spring and installed it with the xh carbine buffer. Ejection is now 2:00-2:30 and it shoots soft. Like a pws should. But it still needs just a little more.

So I'm wondering if I go to the armalite 8" carbine tube, with the slightly longer buffer, and machine my own heavy buffer and add a third weight inside if that could get me to the 3:00-3:30 ejection.

Both the xh and standard buffers in my rifle have two weights that weigh exactly the same and are identical dimensions. But the xh is made of stainless and is bigger bodied. I actually had to turn some off the od on the xh for the flatwire spring to work freely and fit inside the tube.

20220527_192741.jpg


If I don't go the buffer route I'm considering machining some kind of orfice to go in the gas block between the gas plug and the piston. If there's room. I've had it apart but can't remember what it had for extra space.
 
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Question, the armalite ar10 carbine buffer tube that measures 8" uses the standard length ar buffers correct ?

I've got a pws mk216 in 308 that's been horribly over gassed with a can since day one. Ran like a top without. Shot them an email detailing my experiences and was told well that's just how our guns run. Okay. Bs answer but whatever.

Got the heaviest shorty carbine buffer I could find (heavybuffers.com) and a stiffer sprung from the same place and still no joy. All it succeeded in doing was making it kick like a mule and put even more gas in my face. Heavy buffer stock spring seemed to work best.

Fast forward several years and a few hundred rounds later and the gun begins to have problems. Skipping over rounds in the mag, lite primer strikes and it's just beating itself up.

Another email to pws detailing my experience with my initial contact with pws and my current issues with the gun and I got a completely different response from them. They were very apologetic about the first contact experience and very helpful with getting issues resolved this time. They sent me a label and I sent them the gun.

THREE MONTHS LATER! I finally get my gun back. Best I could tell all they did was change the gas block. It went from a four position to the new three. And it shot like crap.

It was always a solid .75-1 moa gun, better on occasion. Now we're deep in 2 moa territory. Started playing with the buffer/spring setups again and got it back down to about 1 moa. Still a 1:30-2:00 ejection pattern and still a pile of gas in the face suppressed. But, to their credit it function with all but one of six loads I shot. Federal premium with the berger 168 hybrid hunter was the only one that caused a malfunction. Ammo is way hot for a gasser.

Through a little more research I ordered a Tubbs flatwire spring and installed it with the xh carbine buffer. Ejection is now 2:00-2:30 and it shoots soft. Like a pws should. But it still needs just a little more.

So I'm wondering if I go to the armalite 8" carbine tube, with the slightly longer buffer, and machine my own heavy buffer and add a third weight inside if that could get me to the 3:00-3:30 ejection.

Both the xh and standard buffers in my rifle have two weights that weigh exactly the same and are identical dimensions. But the xh is made of stainless and is bigger bodied. I actually had to turn some off the od on the xh for the flatwire spring to work freely and fit inside the tube.

View attachment 7885869

If I don't go the buffer route I'm considering machining some kind of orfice to go in the gas block between the gas plug and the piston. If there's room. I've had it apart but can't remember what it had for extra space.
ArmaLite does use the A5 length RE, but it's not an anti-tilt design. 2A Armament (and others) has an A5 length anti-tilt RE. Personally, I would try the LMT LM308A9 or the ArmaLite EA1095 spring with the A5 length RE. To clarify, you can't run a 3.25" long carbine buffer in a 7" inside depth carbine RE. I'm assuming you're running at setting 3 on the gas.
 
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ArmaLite does use the A5 length RE, but it's not an anti-tilt design. 2A Armament (and others) has an A5 length anti-tilt RE. Personally, I would try the LMT LM308A9 or the ArmaLite EA1095 spring with the A5 length RE. To clarify, you can't run a 3.25" long carbine buffer in a 7" inside depth carbine RE. I'm assuming you're running at setting 3 on the gas.
Yes #3 on the gas. In stock trim it would run just right at 3 with no can. Haven't shot it without the can with the flatwire xh buffer setup.

Thanks for the info I will look them up.