Suppressors Can stuck on MB

[Lunar95]

So I got a TBAC can with a "QD" Muzzlebreak, but the can is stuck on the can, removing the can just removes the muzzle break. Any ideas?

 

[usafa77]

locktight the muzzle break to the barrel and try again. Worked for me

 

[WeiserBucks]

locktight the muzzle break to the barrel and try again. Worked for me

Same for me, red Loctite on muzzle threads.

 

[hafejd30]

@TBACRAY

The fix has been suggested but this is the guy who can help

 

[Snuby642]

Use rocksett on the muzzle qd.

It can be removed later with boiling water no dammage or problems.

Some manufacturers send it with the qd.

 

[HansohnBrothers]

If you have to, you can send to us or TBAC to remove the brake.

 

[65x55guy]

Congrats! You now own a direct thread!

 

[B y r o n]

Get a nut and bolt that are the same thread as the break. Thread the nut onto the bolt and then thread the bolt into the break. Run the nut against the break and with a wrench on the bolt lock the nut against the break. Keep the wrench on the bolt and then unthread the suppressor from the break.

Once you have things apart you can use the above mentioned suggestion to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

 

[AccuSol-ERN]

Get a nut and bolt that are the same thread as the break. Thread the nut onto the bolt and then thread the bolt into the break. Run the nut against the break and with a wrench on the bolt lock the nut against the break. Keep the wrench on the bolt and then unthread the suppressor from the break.

Once you have things apart you can use the above mentioned suggestion to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

This is how I do it........but you are not likely to find a firearm specific size bolt and nut (1/2-28, 5/8-24, etc). I had to make mine.

Ern

 

[Lunar95]

I appreciate the suggestions gents, I gave slapping some lock tight on it and giving it another go but the mb gave again before the can, dropped it off at a gunsmith who has been doing all my work recently and he is handling it, worst comes to worst I'll let tbac handle it if I have too, thanks again!

 

[Snuby642]

When you pick it up from the gun smith shop discuss with him about loctite vs rocksett on brake adapters.

 

[65x55guy]

The other item (and I promise I’m not judging) is to find the right oil to slap on the MB outside threads for the suppressor hookup. I’ve had continued challenges with the carbon-weld issue with my suppressor to the CB Mount. It seems like alliant powders were a culprit, as I had both RL26 and RL33 challenges even with Rocksett.

once I put a couple drops of the right high temp capable oil on it before shooting it never had another issue. I just keep a small tube in my shooting bag. Not the most convenient, but honestly much better than what you are experiencing right now.

 

[Snuby642]

When I'm done shooting the last shot I grab my pot holder and loosen the can before they cool.

I had a couple stuck till next trip when I first started with them.
I toss the pot holder next to my ammo to remind me.

 

[Shawn1492]

The other item (and I promise I’m not judging) is to find the right oil to slap on the MB outside threads for the suppressor hookup. I’ve had continued challenges with the carbon-weld issue with my suppressor to the CB Mount. It seems like alliant powders were a culprit, as I had both RL26 and RL33 challenges even with Rocksett.

once I put a couple drops of the right high temp capable oil on it before shooting it never had another issue. I just keep a small tube in my shooting bag. Not the most convenient, but honestly much better than what you are experiencing right now.

What oil are you using?

 

[deersniper]

tag

 

[deersniper]

Everyone is free to believe or not believe what they wish.

I stand behind my observation of the Anderson stainless steel trigger and hammer combo. Maybe it is just a difference of opinion as to what "break like glass" is. The Anderson trigger is not light breaking at just over 6 lbs. but there is no movement at the beginning of the press. There is no noticeable creep, the hammer just falls once enough force is applied and there is only minimal over travel. I like them better than standard triggers.

I have used JP Enterprises Enhanced Reliability spring kits to try and improve standard triggers. The fact that it drops the trigger pull to 3.5 - 4 lbs. of pull makes them feel better. As I previously stated, I have AR Gold triggers in AR-15 and AR-308 rifles and except for the high cost they are lighter and better. I also have Mossberg JM Pro triggers in a couple of AR rifles and pistols. At just over half the cost of an AR Gold I'd say they qualify for best bang for the buck.

Good luck on your trigger shopping.

Think ur in the wrong thread with your wrong opinion lol

latue for cheap triggers. Geisselle adjustable 2 stage for high end

 

[B y r o n]

Think ur in the wrong thread with your wrong opinion lol

latue for cheap triggers. Geisselle adjustable 2 stage for high end

Don't know how it posted here but yes it got posted to the wrong thread so I deleted it.

 

[E. Bryant]

The other item (and I promise I’m not judging) is to find the right oil to slap on the MB outside threads for the suppressor hookup. I’ve had continued challenges with the carbon-weld issue with my suppressor to the CB Mount. It seems like alliant powders were a culprit, as I had both RL26 and RL33 challenges even with Rocksett.

once I put a couple drops of the right high temp capable oil on it before shooting it never had another issue. I just keep a small tube in my shooting bag. Not the most convenient, but honestly much better than what you are experiencing right now.

I believe this is what TBAC recommends fire lubricating the internals of the SR locking collar:

Permatex

www.permatex.com

I've had success using a *small* amount on suppressor threads. Excessive amounts just attract contamination.

 

[65x55guy]

What oil are you using?

except get the small tube. This is like a 3x lifetime supply.

 

[Sixfivesavage]

Before you try and take it off, wrap it with something soft or keep a supress cover on it and whack it a few times around where the brake is. The biggest things are make sure you're using high temp, high strength loctite and cleaned the threads of oil before you installed it as well as using antisieze on the brake threads and taper for the can. Also, make sure the brake is actually torqued and don't just rely on the loctite to hold it on there.

 

[65x55guy]

Before you try and take it off, wrap it with something soft or keep a supress cover on it and whack it a few times around where the brake is. The biggest things are make sure you're using high temp, high strength loctite and cleaned the threads of oil before you installed it as well as using antisieze on the brake threads and taper for the can. Also, make sure the brake is actually torqued and don't just rely on the loctite to hold it on there.

Great point. I’m pretty sure I undertorqued my CB at one point because I was concerned I would rotate it past where it timed correctly.