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Holy smokes, DPMS G2 rifles

DPMS makes a fantastic product. I had an Oracle 5.56 I threw a Timney trigger and quad-rail on it with a bipod, and one day threw my leupold mark 4 on there to see what she would do. It held an inch or better with good factory ammo. I was blown away. Function was flawless as well. Glad to see a company make a good product with a fair price tag.
 
I am curious to find out if anyone knows where one might acquire one of the new GII uppers?
I am thinking of doing the new recon for general work (especially pigs), but building my own 7-08 upper to place on for more surgical work.
 
Looking good man. What paint or process did you end up using?

I ended up using a $15 can Brownell's Alumahyde II in Coyote. It's easy to use and the results have been great on past rifles and pistols.
 
I am curious to find out if anyone knows where one might acquire one of the new GII uppers?
I am thinking of doing the new recon for general work (especially pigs), but building my own 7-08 upper to place on for more surgical work.

You should be able to strike a great deal with a dealer - I bought my G2 Recon for $1400 and got it in one week. Point being, I did all the math and there was no downside to buying the Recon financially in terms of parts. None.

You will not be able to build or custom order a more accurate or lethal semi-auto AR with a 16" barrel for that kind of money guaranteed. Not close.
 
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One.thing I have noticed with my Gen 2 is that it does not need to run "wet". Quite the opposite. In terms of the BCG I pull it out, wash it all down with solvent and dry with compressed air. Reassemble. Put one or two drops of lube on the cam pin. Put a very light film of white lithium grease on the four external rail lugs of the BCG and on top of the charging handle.

DPMS Gen 2's work better drier than wetter from my own personal experience. The BCG is a monolithic billet piece ( integral gas key ) that is Teflon coated along with the upper and lower receiver.

It seems to run clean in that a solvent wash is all that is required - no scrubbing.

And yes, it ejects brass with serious conviction. Twin ejector springs.
 
The more and more i check out the g2 sass,,,, the more i want one

I sold my mws with a 20" ss, 18"ss and a 16" cl. This g2 recon replaced it and I couldn't be happier.
I've got the money to buy whatever I please, the g2 is just a more useful design...
 
DPMS is showing that their G2 barrel nut is now available for purchase. Has anyone actually swapped out the HG on one of the AP4 models with the Samson Evo rail or similar? I just want to verify that an AR15 rail will in fact mate up with the G2 barrel nut before I buy the nut and rail for my G2 Recon.
 
I heard from DPMS and Samson today. There is some confusion out there about what AR15 HG's will actually work on the G2. DPMS says that only "drop in" HG's will fit the AP4 barrel nut. The lady on the phone gave me the example of the MOE HG. There are raised ridges behind the teeth and an extension in front of the teeth that prevent the Troy and VTac Alpha and Bravo rails from working. Samson makes a special thermal bushing that works with the G2 barrel nut and they currently have 12.37" & 15" EVO hand guards ready to ship. The other issue is the thickness of the upper receiver where standard AR15 HG's sit with their anti rotation tabs that fit next to the upper and below the top rail. Samson has made this modification to their EVO for the G2 this their standard AR15 EVO will not work on the G2.

I was happy to hear that Samson is making an EVO HG for the G2. I am sure several companies will be producing your favorite HG here soon for the G2.
 
Just picked up my GII recon .308, put my 3.5-21 HDMR on it zeroed it and shot a few groups, I was rushed as it was at the end of my range day but a guesstimate is right at 1-1.25 3rd group was my best, only 20 rds down the tube at this point. Biggest issue is being a lefty and the brass hits my right cheek every round. Not painful but annoying as hell. Any ideas for a fix?

08B86401-59A5-4F88-933C-974A43BD4598.jpg
 
I used this target to verify my velocity. I fired 2 - 5 shot groups and used "On Target" to measure the group and find it's center.

DPMS G-2 Hunter
150 Remington CoreLok ( I bought these bulk about 20 years ago for .03 / ea
43 gr. IMR 4064
Fed 210M
LC-85 cases
bullet seated to cannelure with medium lee factory crimp

I fired the first (larger group marked #2) in a windy condition and waited for the conditions to settle out for the smaller group.
Using Applied Ballistics App for Android I entered the total drop and came up with 2585 fps

 
Can we expect DPMS to do the same magic,to the ar15, as they did to the GII? I havent seen a g2 but is it at all possible to shave off weight off the ar15's the same way they did on the older brither.
 
Just picked up my GII recon .308, put my 3.5-21 HDMR on it zeroed it and shot a few groups, I was rushed as it was at the end of my range day but a guesstimate is right at 1-1.25 3rd group was my best, only 20 rds down the tube at this point. Biggest issue is being a lefty and the brass hits my right cheek every round. Not painful but annoying as hell. Any ideas for a fix?
Yes,
Get a brass catcher. It's not an ideal solution, but it works. The ideal solution is to buy or make a custom lefty build.

To get you started:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=brass catcher for ar15
 
Yes,
Get a brass catcher. It's not an ideal solution, but it works. The ideal solution is to buy or make a custom lefty build.

To get you started:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=brass catcher for ar15

While I appreciate the reply, is rather get hit in the face than install one of those. Unfortunately the GII doesn't come in a left hand version and the whole point is to have an extremely light .308 rifle for out to 750 or so which this should do well. I might try a brass deflector or maybe attempt an adjustable gas block.
 
I was at Cabelas earlier and noticed the hunter model on the shelf and remembered this thread. All I can say is DAMN that thing was light. I was there to pick up a gun I had shipped in or I might have picked one up to try. I noticed a few things different over the standard 308 DPMS thing beside it but it was a decent looking/feeling package.
 
While I appreciate the reply, is rather get hit in the face than install one of those. Unfortunately the GII doesn't come in a left hand version and the whole point is to have an extremely light .308 rifle for out to 750 or so which this should do well. I might try a brass deflector or maybe attempt an adjustable gas block.

I was having the same problem with mine (G-2 Hunter) and even wrote to DPMS about it. The tech wrote back saying that he was a lefty and while the brass from his G-2 came close it hadn't hit him yet.... WOW... and that from a DPMS tech.

Anyway, I did find a cure for my rifle and it was dick simple..... and don't laugh until you try it. I lubed the 2 ejectors with some Rem-Oil and the rifle started ejecting at 3:30 to 4:00.
 
I was having the same problem with mine (G-2 Hunter) and even wrote to DPMS about it. The tech wrote back saying that he was a lefty and while the brass from his G-2 came close it hadn't hit him yet.... WOW... and that from a DPMS tech.

Anyway, I did find a cure for my rifle and it was dick simple..... and don't laugh until you try it. I lubed the 2 ejectors with some Rem-Oil and the rifle started ejecting at 3:30 to 4:00.

Man I appreciate it I'll give that a try on my days off.
 
I have already posted these pics on another thread, but here is my GII SASS.

I now have close to 800 rounds through this rifle. I have yet to experience a single malfunction of any type. Though I will admit, It is a tad overgassed, and I intend to put an adjustable gas block on it to see if I can take better advantage of the lightweight BCG. Speaking of the BCG, I compared the weight of it to a friends JP low mass unit, it was within .2 ounces of being the same weight.

My accuracy seems to be a little better than what some of you are seeing. I haven't really sat down and shot 5 shot groups to develop a load as yet, but my best group was 3 shots at 200 yards at .375 MoA (I know, not 5 shots), and a handful of 5 shot groups between .5 to .6 MoA, including a .513 at 550 yards a week ago as I was prepping for the Ironman 3 Gun event. I was confirming my data by shooting from a Lead Sled at 200 to 1000 yards. I needed to make 3 shots at 550, 3 at 720, and 3 at 900 in the competition. I got all 9 hits without issue. That was with 168gr SMK's and 43.5grs Ramshot Tac.

The heavy quad rail is gone, replaced with a 15.5" Nordic Components rail at half the weight. I also added a JP Comp and switched the Ergo grip for the thicker, rubberized one that I like better than the hard plastic. Then tossed on some Kryptek Cerakote and FDE with some 20 round PMags, and away we go. Here is my SASS

SASS.jpgSASS1.jpgSASS3.jpg
 
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From what I've heard due to the unique barrel nut options for free floating are limited. But samson did modify there rail to work on the gen two. DPMS LR-G2 : Samson Manufacturing
I contacted dpms about a potential list of free float rails that would work and I got stoned walled. It would appear that advertisement is for the standard two piece handgaurd on their carbine model. Let me know if you know something I don't.
 
From what I've heard due to the unique barrel nut options for free floating are limited. But samson did modify there rail to work on the gen two. DPMS LR-G2 : Samson Manufacturing
I contacted dpms about a potential list of free float rails that would work and I got stoned walled. It would appear that advertisement is for the standard two piece handgaurd on their carbine model. Let me know if you know something I don't.

DPMS has worked with several manufacturers to provide them with dims for the barrel nut in order to kick-start the after-market supply of handguards for this system.

Midwest Industries and Sampson are at least 2 that I know of, and they both have been shipping product.
 
Hey guys this may be the right place to post this. I just bought a lr g2 and have a pretty serious short stroke problem. I took her out today for the first time with some Winchester 147 gr 7.62 and hornady 168 gr. I started with the 147's and immediately found that a round would eject but the next round didn't get stripped from the mag. This was every round. I initially thought magazine so luckily I brought the pmags I bought...same issue. Next I went to the 168gr and had better luck but nowhere near 100%, maybe 60%. Put 60 rounds through it like this and very frustrated. FYI gas block is in proper position (it looks like it anyway) and tight, buffer and spring are the proper size. She was a little drier than I usually have an ar but I can't imagine that would cause all that. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Ps accuracy was outstanding. Only took 10 rounds to zero and get me on target at 300 yds getting just under Moa just off a bipod in the dirt!
 
Hey guys this may be the right place to post this. I just bought a lr g2 and have a pretty serious short stroke problem. I took her out today for the first time with some Winchester 147 gr 7.62 and hornady 168 gr. I started with the 147's and immediately found that a round would eject but the next round didn't get stripped from the mag. This was every round. I initially thought magazine so luckily I brought the pmags I bought...same issue. Next I went to the 168gr and had better luck but nowhere near 100%, maybe 60%. Put 60 rounds through it like this and very frustrated. FYI gas block is in proper position (it looks like it anyway) and tight, buffer and spring are the proper size. She was a little drier than I usually have an ar but I can't imagine that would cause all that. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Ps accuracy was outstanding. Only took 10 rounds to zero and get me on target at 300 yds getting just under Moa just off a bipod in the dirt!

I work in a gun shop where the AR platform is the weapon we sell and work on the most by far. 99% of the time when we get a customer with this problem, it's due to lack of lubrication. You quite literally can't use too much.

So yes, being a little dry can absolutely cause that issue, and always does. Not only do you need to really oil down that bolt, but it helps immensely to lather up the spring and buffer with a light grease. Not only does that aid in cycling, but it also helps quiet down the spring.

Only very rarely do I see a short stroking issue that is due to being under gassed or some other issue. Especially on a .308.
 
DPMS has worked with several manufacturers to provide them with dims for the barrel nut in order to kick-start the after-market supply of handguards for this system.

Midwest Industries and Sampson are at least 2 that I know of, and they both have been shipping product.

Nordic Components also has a nice rail at a great price. JP has a rail in the works to fit the GII as well.
 
Thanks a lot bird dog. I'll lube her up and take her out again today. I'll report back!
 
Ok so here's the deal. I went to the store and got a ton of factory rounds. Everything from 125 gr (didn't think it'd cycle with those and I was right haha) to 180gr. Lubed the hell out of it and hit the range. All was good with 150 gr and up for about 20 rds, then the problem was back. So I stripped it down, wiped off the oil and relubed and bingo, she's eating everything no problem other than the 125s. Even cycling reloads I made up for my 5r! Anyway I'm guessing it was just a break in thing as well as lube like birddog said. So anyone else having this problem out of the box just hang in there and simply lube, shoot, clean off lube and repeat till it's working right.
 
Ok so here's the deal. I went to the store and got a ton of factory rounds. Everything from 125 gr (didn't think it'd cycle with those and I was right haha) to 180gr. Lubed the hell out of it and hit the range. All was good with 150 gr and up for about 20 rds, then the problem was back. So I stripped it down, wiped off the oil and relubed and bingo, she's eating everything no problem other than the 125s. Even cycling reloads I made up for my 5r! Anyway I'm guessing it was just a break in thing as well as lube like birddog said. So anyone else having this problem out of the box just hang in there and simply lube, shoot, clean off lube and repeat till it's working right.

That's the ticket ;)
 
All finished in its final form, another range trip this weekend to rezero, and get the BUIS sighted in.

I'll have to try some basic trigger enhancements, but It's hard to not go with a Geiselle after using them in the past.

IMG_8498s.jpg

How well does that finish hold up to moderate usage? And what sort of prep work needs to be done before application? Sure looks nice!

Cheers,

George
 
All finished in its final form, another range trip this weekend to rezero, and get the BUIS sighted in.

I'll have to try some basic trigger enhancements, but It's hard to not go with a Geiselle after using them in the past.

IMG_8498s.jpg

I have a GII Bull on the way as well. I really like the butt stock you have, what make and model is it? I also like the way you finished it all off!

Cheers,

George
 
I have a GII Bull on the way as well. I really like the butt stock you have, what make and model is it? I also like the way you finished it all off!

Cheers,

George

It holds up well to moderate usage, its biggest weakness is harsh chemicals, but holds up okay to standard cleaning chemicals. Good prep is the key to any good finish. you could just spray it on, but I wouldn't expect it to stick well to oily metal. I disassembled, degreased, and scuffed the smooth surfaces. I didn't go as far as sandblasting the parts as you would with cerekote, but you could go that far if you like. The finish will scuff and scratch on hard use areas, but that's expected for any finish if you hit the deck hard, especially on plastics where the surface gives a little.

The stock is a LUTH-AR MBA
 
Hey thanks for the information! I'm a long time trap shooter (40+ years) just getting into this, but sure looks like fun. There sure is a lot to learn, but so far this is the best site I've found.

Cheers,

George
 
Even the best finish shows wear. I Cerakoted parts of mine with full knowledge that the range bag, getting tossed in and out of a 3 gun dump box, holding it up to walls and rails for support, etc, is going to chip and wear at it. That's also why I chose a Kryptek pattern. So the chips and scratches would blend in.

Any finish that is not applied after an abrasive media prep (sandblasting) or a baked on finish is just going to wear off or chip on the edges that much faster.

If it's a safe queen or only comes out on sunny days for some bench shooting or laying on your mat, any finish will see good wear. But if you use it hard, you're better off investing in Cerakote. It's not that expensive.
 
Anyone have any information on when they will come out with a 260 or 243?
 
Which buttstock is that?


Added a few more mods. A 15" MI keymod rail, Sierra Precision grip, Badger Latch, and BUIS. I'm awaiting a keymod bipod stud to finish it off, its just resting on the harris now. Then I'm blasting the whole thing in FDE.

I got the rifle for $1050 and then subtract the $50 DPMS rebate. Things added up though, and where its at now is $1700 not counting the glass. Making it about $100 cheaper than the low market price on a G2 SASS, but then again the barrel isn't threaded and doesn't have a muzzle device.

The factory free float was a PITA to remove, since I don't have an action block to secure this upper in a vice. I had to come up with a homebrew solution and needed to buy a strap wrench to remove it.

View attachment 39265
 
I was having the same problem with mine (G-2 Hunter) and even wrote to DPMS about it. The tech wrote back saying that he was a lefty and while the brass from his G-2 came close it hadn't hit him yet.... WOW... and that from a DPMS tech.

Anyway, I did find a cure for my rifle and it was dick simple..... and don't laugh until you try it. I lubed the 2 ejectors with some Rem-Oil and the rifle started ejecting at 3:30 to 4:00.

Just ran 10 rounds through it after lubing the ejectors and bingo problem solved! Thanks again!
 
I've got a G2 SASS on the way thanks to this thread. I had also been considering a LMT MWS and the previous generation DPMS models but all the excellent feedback on the G2 rifles swayed me. I can't wait to get it, toss a scope on it and throw some 7.62 down range.

I went with the SASS because I want to shoot it short range and out to 600 yards, maybe even longer so the 18" heavy fluted barrel, Harris bipod and PRS stock were key deciding factors over the G2 Bull, Hunter and Recon.

I'm a left handed shot due to being left eye dominant so now I'm on the lookout for an ambi charging handle. I have a BCM gunfighter ambi on my 5.56 Rock River AR but I don't think they have one for the G2. Any other lefties out there find a lefty or ambi charging handle for your G2 or come up with a solution?

Thanks

JP
 
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Added a few more mods. A 15" MI keymod rail, Sierra Precision grip, Badger Latch, and BUIS. I'm awaiting a keymod bipod stud to finish it off, its just resting on the harris now. Then I'm blasting the whole thing in FDE.

I got the rifle for $1050 and then subtract the $50 DPMS rebate. Things added up though, and where its at now is $1700 not counting the glass. Making it about $100 cheaper than the low market price on a G2 SASS, but then again the barrel isn't threaded and doesn't have a muzzle device.

The factory free float was a PITA to remove, since I don't have an action block to secure this upper in a vice. I had to come up with a homebrew solution and needed to buy a strap wrench to remove it.

View attachment 39265

Okay ApacheDriver,
I need to pick your brain a bit more. I looked on the Midwest site, but can't find which hand guard you used. I really like your build and want to build my Bull pretty much the same. Tell me which hand guard and parts I need to order. Sorry to be such a pain, but this is my first one, so I'm learning a lot for the next one!

Thanks,

George
 
Its this one here, I am using the 15" which will cover the gasblock. You need a low profile gas block to do this though, or you could just get the 12"

Okay ApacheDriver,
I need to pick your brain a bit more. I looked on the Midwest site, but can't find which hand guard you used. I really like your build and want to build my Bull pretty much the same. Tell me which hand guard and parts I need to order. Sorry to be such a pain, but this is my first one, so I'm learning a lot for the next one!

Thanks,
George
 
Added a few more mods. A 15" MI keymod rail, Sierra Precision grip, Badger Latch, and BUIS. I'm awaiting a keymod bipod stud to finish it off, its just resting on the harris now. Then I'm blasting the whole thing in FDE.

I got the rifle for $1050 and then subtract the $50 DPMS rebate. Things added up though, and where its at now is $1700 not counting the glass. Making it about $100 cheaper than the low market price on a G2 SASS, but then again the barrel isn't threaded and doesn't have a muzzle device.

The factory free float was a PITA to remove, since I don't have an action block to secure this upper in a vice. I had to come up with a homebrew solution and needed to buy a strap wrench to remove it.

View attachment 39265

Hey thanks, one last question, what iron sights did you use?

Thanks again,

George
 
Thanks for the help! This is going to be fun. Now I just need to decide on a scope and mounts, then try and find some ammo, or loading components.

Cheers,

George
 
I went with the SASS because I want to shoot it short range and out to 600 yards, maybe even longer so I like the 18" heavy fluted barrel, Harris bipod and PRS stock were key deciding factors over the G2 Bull, Hunter and Recon.

Thanks

JP

600 yards is a walk in the park for the SASS.

175gr SMK's and 900 to a 1000 is where it gets fun.
 
600 yards is a walk in the park for the SASS.

175gr SMK's and 900 to a 1000 is where it gets fun.

175 SMKs are exactly what I'll be using in my reloads. I've signed up for a course through the Sig Sauer Academy near me called Reach for a 1000 where they instruct on how to shoot long range. We get to shoot at distances of 100, 300, 500, 800 and 1000 yards. I was planning on running the custom 300 WM bolt action I'm currently having built and my 308 bolt action but maybe I'll bring the SASS instead of the 308. I can't wait!

I'm curious, what powder do you use and how much? I'm new to reloading so I'd love to know what works well for others in this rifle to give me a starting point. I've got some Varget powder that I was planning to use.