Howa VS Tikka Accuracy (6.5 Creedmoor)

[rbs7500]

Hey all,

I'm in the market for my first rifle as I mentioned in another thread, and I'm tossing up between a Howa 1500 in an MDT XRS or getting a Tikka T3 in the cheapest stock variant possible and then upgrading the stock to an XRS or ESS.

I'm wondering what's more accurate between the 2 rifles? My goal is so start out shooting at 100m and get consistent group there and progressively build up. I know it's a long shot, but does anyone who owns either of these actions in 6.5CM have photos of their 100m groups (or groups at any range). I can only find a few short distance videos on YouTube, otherwise it's all long distance stuff on YouTube. I'd love to see some real world results. - But speaking of YouTube, I've seen the Tikka Tac A1 hit 4/5 shots at a Mile and I've seen the Howa do the same, but not as accurately or consistency - but this is different shooters using different ammo. Also, on the few short range videos I've seen of Howa's, it seems to be luck of the draw/ammo and they'll shoot anywhere between .6 and 1.5 inches at 100 yards where the Tikka seems to consistently hit sub .5 inch groups.

Any insight and target photos from anyone who owns any of these systems will be much appreciated!

Also, if I do go with a cheaper Tikka just to get the barreled action and then drop it into an aftermarket Chassis such as an MDT ESS, does anyone know roughly how accurate would this be in comparison to a Tikka Tac A1 (Which I can't afford, unless I want to leave myself with a sub $300 Scope). Also, if I go with the Howa - I'd also likely drop it into an MDT system and was wondering how that would stack up compared to the Howa Precision Chassis (Which I can afford, but am not a huge fan of the look of).

I'm just wanting to gather as much evidence as possible to make sure I'm on the right track and to help make a decision.

Thanks

 

[CavReconScout]

I think either will work great. Having said that I own several Howa HCR rifles. Since you asked for photos here are two at 100yds

And here is the rifle

Just pick one, take a training class, and get out and shoot it as much as you can.

 

[fdkay]

I am a Howa fan, but I think that the Tikka's are more consistently accurate, meaning that, on rare occasions, you get a Howa that doesn't shoot well. HOWEVER, Howa does have an accuracy guarantee.
Have you considered the Howa Oryx? I agree, that precision chassis is unsightly.
How about the Lithgow Woomera?
I will tell you this, there are barrel makers out there that are so confident of the quality and consistency of the tikka actions, that they sell pre-fit shouldered barrels for them. That is unheard of for any other mass produced rifle action.

 

[sboone]

This is a load work up in my Tikka 24" CTR, by and far not the cheapest model. 20 rounds if I remember with 1p different powder charge weights. With my pet load the gun will turn in 4 rounds touching with 1 little hole opening the group up to around .5"

Ive only ever really taken the gun out to 600yds, never much farther unfortunately...yet

 

[rbs7500]

I am a Howa fan, but I think that the Tikka's are more consistently accurate, meaning that, on rare occasions, you get a Howa that doesn't shoot well. HOWEVER, Howa does have an accuracy guarantee.
Have you considered the Howa Oryx? I agree, that precision chassis is unsightly.
How about the Lithgow Woomera?
I will tell you this, there are barrel makers out there that are so confident of the quality and consistency of the tikka actions, that they sell pre-fit shouldered barrels for them. That is unheard of for any other mass produced rifle action.

I looked at the Oryx but I think I'd prefer an XRS. I'm just not a fan of the Oryx color scheme and it seems to lack adjustability in comparison to the other MDT options.

I really like the Lithgow's and the KRG X-RAY they come in but they're a little out of the budget. My Budget is $3200 including a Safe, so let's say my budget $2800 for a rifle, scope, bipod and some ammo to get started. There's a few shops available to me that deal Howa's in all of the MDT systems. They sell the 6.5CM in an XRS for $1300. If I took this option, I'd then spend $1100 on a Strike Eagle and have enough left for a decent bipod, case and some rounds.
If I go the Tikka route, I can get a Tikka in the crappest stock they have available for around $1500, put a Strike Eagle on it and save for a little while to upgrade the stock to something from MDT or a KRG Bravo etc.

Or I could always spend a little more on a rifle and go for an Arken Scope which costs around $700, but this still wouldn't leave me enough for the Lithgow.

This is all in Australian dollars by the way.

 

[rbs7500]

I think either will work great. Having said that I own several Howa HCR rifles. Since you asked for photos here are two at 100yds
View attachment 7583576View attachment 7583577
And here is the rifle
View attachment 7583580
Just pick one, take a training class, and get out and shoot it as much as you can.

Thanks heaps for sharing, this is exactly what I'm after!

What Brand/Grain were you using for these groups?

Also, when it comes to finding the tightest ammo for a given rifle, is it pretty universal or is it still doing to vary from rifle to rifle (even if it's the same brand and model)
Because if it's something that's pretty universal, it'll save me a heap of money knowing what's tightest rather than buying several different boxes and figuring it out.

 

[308pirate]

Hey all,

I'm in the market for my first rifle as I mentioned in another thread, and I'm tossing up between a Howa 1500 in an MDT XRS or getting a Tikka T3 in the cheapest stock variant possible and then upgrading the stock to an XRS or ESS.

I'm wondering what's more accurate between the 2 rifles? My goal is so start out shooting at 100m and get consistent group there and progressively build up. I know it's a long shot, but does anyone who owns either of these actions in 6.5CM have photos of their 100m groups (or groups at any range). I can only find a few short distance videos on YouTube, otherwise it's all long distance stuff on YouTube. I'd love to see some real world results. - But speaking of YouTube, I've seen the Tikka Tac A1 hit 4/5 shots at a Mile and I've seen the Howa do the same, but not as accurately or consistency - but this is different shooters using different ammo. Also, on the few short range videos I've seen of Howa's, it seems to be luck of the draw/ammo and they'll shoot anywhere between .6 and 1.5 inches at 100 yards where the Tikka seems to consistently hit sub .5 inch groups.

Any insight and target photos from anyone who owns any of these systems will be much appreciated!

Also, if I do go with a cheaper Tikka just to get the barreled action and then drop it into an aftermarket Chassis such as an MDT ESS, does anyone know roughly how accurate would this be in comparison to a Tikka Tac A1 (Which I can't afford, unless I want to leave myself with a sub $300 Scope). Also, if I go with the Howa - I'd also likely drop it into an MDT system and was wondering how that would stack up compared to the Howa Precision Chassis (Which I can afford, but am not a huge fan of the look of).

I'm just wanting to gather as much evidence as possible to make sure I'm on the right track and to help make a decision.

Thanks

You're asking for "evidence" that no one can give you.

All you will get is anecdotal evidence and even at that the sample size will be both very small and self selecting. Basically useless data.

Both of the rifles you mentioned are mass-produced, mass-market items. While both are relatively high quality, you still have a roughly equal possibility of getting a dog out of either.

And in any case, you sound like you're new at this so whichever you buy will be far more mechanically accurate than what you will be able to do.

So put your money down on one now before you get paralysis by analysis. Because that's where I see you headed.

 

[308pirate]

Thanks heaps for sharing, this is exactly what I'm after!

What Brand/Grain were you using for these groups?

Also, when it comes to finding the tightest ammo for a given rifle, is it pretty universal

Once again, anecdotal evidence that you cannot rely on to work the same on whatever rifle you buy

There's no "this is the one" ammo for you to buy.

 

[DJL2]

If it helps, think of it this way:
1. Either you're in this for the long haul or
2. You realize this isn't your bag and you bounce

In either case, you're buying the action...everything else is either a consumable item or changed to suit. Consider buying the action that gives you the most flexibility because that will:
1. Ensure you can tailor it to you skill and experience as you learn or
2. Sell it more easily to someone that appreciates its virtues

I can tell you from doing the Kraft data collection drill that my rifle is definitely not the LIMFAC for me at 100 yds, let alone further out. You can also check out this link:

How Much Does It Matter? - PrecisionRifleBlog.com

As long-range shooters, we tend to obsess over every little detail. After all, we’re trying to hit relatively small targets that are so far you may not even be able to see with the naked eye. While you might can get away with minor mistakes and still ring steel at short and medium ranges, as you...

precisionrifleblog.com

 

[rbs7500]

If it helps, think of it this way:
1. Either you're in this for the long haul or
2. You realize this isn't your bag and you bounce

In either case, you're buying the action...everything else is either a consumable item or changed to suit. Consider buying the action that gives you the most flexibility because that will:
1. Ensure you can tailor it to you skill and experience as you learn or
2. Sell it more easily to someone that appreciates its virtues

I can tell you from doing the Kraft data collection drill that my rifle is definitely not the LIMFAC for me at 100 yds, let alone further out. You can also check out this link:

How Much Does It Matter? - PrecisionRifleBlog.com

As long-range shooters, we tend to obsess over every little detail. After all, we’re trying to hit relatively small targets that are so far you may not even be able to see with the naked eye. While you might can get away with minor mistakes and still ring steel at short and medium ranges, as you...

precisionrifleblog.com

It's definitely something I'll stick with as it's a new skill that's appealing to me to develop.

I've been shooting under friends over the years and really enjoy it, it's just taken me a while to suck it up and get my own license and rifle.

Good point though, I'm only really buying into the action and everything else is interchangeable.

Thanks for the article link, I'll give it a good read.

 

[brianf]

Once again, anecdotal evidence that you cannot rely on to work the same on whatever rifle you buy

There's no "this is the one" ammo for you to buy.

just to have fun...except 308, buy Federal Match 168 or 175.
if that doesnt shoot somethings wrong

OP... i dont have either but to the guys who know do either have prefits available

whichever one does thats to one to buy, its the barrel that makes it accurate (all things being equal/not having a lemon)

 

[NewsShooter]

A buddy of mine has an Accuracy International 300 WM with a S&B on top of it. When we took it out to zero it he was shooting 2+inch groups at 100 yards. I finally got him to let me shoot it and it was under an inch. Either choice will work, I'm more partial to Tikka's as I have four of them in four different calibers. All will shoot 1 inch or better groups with factory ammo. There really isn't any bad ammo for the 6.5 that I've found. Some slower, some faster, all seem to group well.

 

[Steve_O]

Wish I had a better group picture or more pictures in general. Just got my scope mounted and was sighting in my Tikka Varmint 6.5 with Hornady 143 ELDX at 200 yards. Shot one, came down for two, came over right one, over and down for two, then a three shot group towards the center. Mine shoots well under a inch at 200.

 

[CavReconScout]

Thanks heaps for sharing, this is exactly what I'm after!

What Brand/Grain were you using for these groups?

Hornady 147 ELD-M

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

I've got a Tikka Super Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor.
Love it.
It shot under half an inch "out of the box".
Originally used Federal Vmax 95gr.
I now use a handloaded 129gr SST, Lapua cases.

It's got a gentle recoil, compared to my .308 or .338
It's basically my everyday feral basher.

I've married it up with with a Vortex Razor, extremely happy with the combo.
Always preferred a traditional stock for my rifles, after using a mate's GRS BIFROST on his Tikka, I've ordered one for mine.
Major consensus is to use heavier projectiles, but mine is very good with the 129gr SST, so I have no reason to change.
Handloading works out far cheaper in the long run, and is great for building an accurate round specific to your rifle.
Plus, most of all, it's fun.

A decent scope and rings will serve well.
Tikka CTR is cheaper than the A1, and the Super Varmint is usually cheaper still, but has what I believe is a better barrel.
I've shot against both, and held my own.

I am biased to Tikka, owned a 25-06 years ago, and that was a great rifle too.

Whatever you choose, just enjoy it.
Work hard and be critical on your body alignment, breathing and trigger techniques.
I learned a very important lesson from SH, a bubble level. It's really helped me to be aware of my body positioning.
Always thought I was pretty good, but the bubble never lies.
All the best.

 

[rbs7500]

Noob question, but what does varmint mean when it comes to barrels?

 

[spife7980]

Noob question, but what does varmint mean when it comes to barrels?

Usually it’s a thicker contour to handle the higher heat that occurs sitting over a prairie dog town etc. and lots of shooting.

Not “thick” compared to today’s match barrels but compared to traditional hunting barrels. It’s sorta medium palmaish

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

☝

 

[rbs7500]

Usually it’s a thicker contour to handle the higher heat that occurs sitting over a prairie dog town etc. and lots of shooting.

Not “thick” compared to today’s match barrels but compared to traditional hunting barrels. It’s sorta medium palmaish

Thanks for that man, great explanation

 

[Gregor.Samsa]

I have both a Tikka CTR in 6.5cm and a Howa in 308. I like both. While the two cartridges cannot be compared apples to apples in terms of accuracy, they both shoot very nicely. If I had to choose between the two, I prefer the Tikka. It is a more refined rifle with a silky smooth bolt. I don't think you could go wrong with either however.

 

[rbs7500]

I have both a Tikka CTR in 6.5cm and a Howa in 308. I like both. While the two cartridges cannot be compared apples to apples in terms of accuracy, they both shoot very nicely. If I had to choose between the two, I prefer the Tikka. It is a more refined rifle with a silky smooth bolt. I don't think you could go wrong with either however.

It's a really tough choice. I've never fired a Howa, but I've fired a Tikka in 22-250 and do agree the bolt is very smooth. How does the Howa bolt feel in comparison?

If I go with the Howa, I can have it in the Chassis I want and kitted up straight off the bat.
If I go with the Tikka, I'll have to use a cheap standard stock for a good while before I save up for an aftermarket Chassis.

It looks and sounds like both rifles are going to be about equally accurate, so I guess it comes down to whether the Howa is worth the extra $800.

 

[Steel head]

I wouldn’t worry about ultimate accuracy
You can slam a lot of steel with a 1 moa rifle.
Get the features you want then if you want more accuracy upgrade the barrel later.

Both the tikka and howa have affordable barrel options that will check that box.

 

[DROWN]

Cheapest Tikkas are the lite model. You would want to rebarrel it for long range shooting, so it's gonna cost you more in the long run. But the action and bolt will hold their resell value if you decide you don't like it. I'm a Tikka fan boy have never shot a Howa. But have other builds (Vudoo, GAP, Seekins) and the Tikka bolt are the smootest of all and worth it for that. Tac A1 has a heavier barrel and comes in a chassis. Chassis can be sold or traded if you don't like it or want to upgrade. Out of the box it's got everything to get started.

 

[rbs7500]

Cheapest Tikkas are the lite model. You would want to rebarrel it for long range shooting, so it's gonna cost you more in the long run. But the action and bolt will hold their resell value if you decide you don't like it. I'm a Tikka fan boy have never shot a Howa. But have other builds (Vudoo, GAP, Seekins) and the Tikka bolt are the smootest of all and worth it for that. Tac A1 has a heavier barrel and comes in a chassis. Chassis can be sold or traded if you don't like it or want to upgrade. Out of the box it's got everything to get started.

Do you know what the cheapest Tikka with the heavier barrel would be?
I can't afford a TAC A1 unless I go heavily into my Optic Budget which would result in me having to get a crappy optic.

However, if I can get the same action and barrel as a tac a1 in a cheaper Tikka and then eventually upgrade the stock to something MDT, I'd have a very nice shooter.

 

[Steve_O]

Do you know what the cheapest Tikka with the heavier barrel would be?
I can't afford a TAC A1 unless I go heavily into my Optic Budget which would result in me having to get a crappy optic.

However, if I can get the same action and barrel as a tac a1 in a cheaper Tikka and then eventually upgrade the stock to something MDT, I'd have a very nice shooter.

I would believe it’s the one I have the Tikka Varmint.

 

[Steve_O]

My Varmint

 

[DROWN]

Do you know what the cheapest Tikka with the heavier barrel would be?
I can't afford a TAC A1 unless I go heavily into my Optic Budget which would result in me having to get a crappy optic.

However, if I can get the same action and barrel as a tac a1 in a cheaper Tikka and then eventually upgrade the stock to something MDT, I'd have a very nice shooter.

All actions are the same. Only difference is SS vs. Non SS. Bolt stop dictated by caliber.
CTR has same barrel. It's threaded for brake too. Different triggers. Not sure what other models have that contour.
My first rifle was a CTR. I ended up putting it in a Tac A1 and buying a used two stage Tikka trigger. Would of been cheaper in the long run to get the Tac A1.

As was stated above, the Varmint barrel is very nice. Not threaded however, but doesn't heat up as fast in my experience.

 

[rbs7500]

My Varmint

Very nice,

I just had a look and the Super Varmint is $2225 the the Varmint is $1705.
Does Super refer to an even thicker barrel than the varmint? Or is is just because it has a better standard stock?

If it's the same Barrel, then I can get the Varmint and still have enough left for a Strike Eagle + bipod then upgrade the stock down the track. Having a good look, I think the Tikka I've fired before was a Varmint, it had the nice black synthetic stock. If so, then that'd keep me going for a good while before I upgrade anyway.

How long is the barrel for the 6.5CM Varmint? Cleavers doesn't specify.

 

[rbs7500]

All actions are the same. Only difference is SS vs. Non SS. Bolt stop dictated by caliber.
CTR has same barrel. It's threaded for brake too. Different triggers. Not sure what other models have that contour.
My first rifle was a CTR. I ended up putting it in a Tac A1 and buying a used two stage Tikka trigger. Would of been cheaper in the long run to get the Tac A1.

As was stated above, the Varmint barrel is very nice. Not threaded however, but doesn't heat up as fast in my experience.

I've heard that Muzzle Breaks just piss people at the range off.
Also, I haven't fired a 6.5CM but from what I understand they're quite low in recoil. Do they need a muzzle break/will muzzle break do much to improve accuracy?

If so, then that's the only downfall to the varmint. The Howa comes with a threaded 26" barrel.

This is tough.

 

[Steve_O]

Very nice,

I just had a look and the Super Varmint is $2225 the the Varmint is $1705.
Does Super refer to an even thicker barrel than the varmint? Or is is just because it has a better standard stock?

If it's the same Barrel, then I can get the Varmint and still have enough left for a Strike Eagle + bipod then upgrade the stock down the track. Having a good look, I think the Tikka I've fired before was a Varmint, it had the nice black synthetic stock. If so, then that'd keep me going for a good while before I upgrade anyway.

How long is the barrel for the 6.5CM Varmint? Cleavers doesn't specify.

Where did you see the Varmint for $1700? They are around $900. The super Varmint has a adjustable check piece, the barrel is the same. Barrel length is 24 inch.

 

[rbs7500]

Where did you see the Varmint for $1700? They are around $900. The super Varmint has a adjustable check piece, the barrel is the same. Barrel length is 24 inch.

I'm in Australia so this is in Australian dollars.

I'm looking at a shop called Cleavers, which is the cheapest in Australia as far as I know.

 

[sam4886]

I've got two howas that shoot great. Factory barreled actions I put into various stocks and chassis. Sub moa all day with just about anything off the shelf and better with reloads. 6.5 creed and a 6 creed.

That said, I'd go with the tikka just for room for growth in the future. Spend any amount of time around here and and you'll be balls deep in barrel vices and action wrenches before you know it.

3 shot group at a mile with the 6.5, just for kicks.

 

[rbs7500]

Where did you see the Varmint for $1700? They are around $900. The super Varmint has a adjustable check piece, the barrel is the same. Barrel length is 24 inch.

Also thanks for the info!

Does it cost much to have a barrel threaded?

 

[rbs7500]

Oh and also,

Is there any huge advantage in going stainless over blued?

I much prefer the look of a dark barrel and it's also a little cheaper.

 

[Steve_O]

Also thanks for the info!

Does it cost much to have a barrel threaded?

No it doesn’t cost much.

 

[Steve_O]

I've heard that Muzzle Breaks just piss people at the range off.
Also, I haven't fired a 6.5CM but from what I understand they're quite low in recoil. Do they need a muzzle break/will muzzle break do much to improve accuracy?

If so, then that's the only downfall to the varmint. The Howa comes with a threaded 26" barrel.

This is tough.

6.5 CM is soft shooting you don’t need a muzzle brake what so ever. Brakes don’t increase accuracy just makes it easier to stay on target but not needed for casual shooting.

 

[Steve_O]

Oh and also,

Is there any huge advantage in going stainless over blued?

I much prefer the look of a dark barrel and it's also a little cheaper.

Advantage to stainless is will not rust as easy as a blued barrel and some like the looks better. The blued just needs more maintenance like keeping the barrel oiled and cleaned more often.

 

[rbs7500]

I've got two howas that shoot great. Factory barreled actions I put into various stocks and chassis. Sub moa all day with just about anything off the shelf and better with reloads. 6.5 creed and a 6 creed.

That said, I'd go with the tikka just for room for growth in the future. Spend any amount of time around here and and you'll be balls deep in barrel vices and action wrenches before you know it.

3 shot group at a mile with the 6.5, just for kicks. View attachment 7584231

Man that's awesome! Looks like the Howa is perfectly capable.

My local range only goes to 500m so that will be the furthest I can shoot 95% of the time. So most of my time will be spent going for some nice groups on paper starting at 100m and building up.
I've hit the 500m gong quite a few times when I've shot with friends, using a 22-250 (Tikka) and a .308 (Ruger Precision, hated the bolt, would never own) but I believe there's a lot more skill to be built starting back at 100m until I get conaistent groups and then guiding up.

There is a 2km range that's a 6 hour drive away and a few longer ranges that are only open on club days. So I'd love to eventually get out and shoot past 500m and maybe try 1000 after I've built some solid foundations, it just won't be super often.

 

[rbs7500]

Advantage to stainless is will not rust as easy as a blued barrel and some like the looks better. The blued just needs more maintenance like keeping the barrel oiled and cleaned more often.

Ok no worries. You've been a big help man thanks.

I was intending to clean after every shoot regardless.

 

[Gregor.Samsa]

It's a really tough choice. I've never fired a Howa, but I've fired a Tikka in 22-250 and do agree the bolt is very smooth. How does the Howa bolt feel in comparison?

If I go with the Howa, I can have it in the Chassis I want and kitted up straight off the bat.
If I go with the Tikka, I'll have to use a cheap standard stock for a good while before I save up for an aftermarket Chassis.

It looks and sounds like both rifles are going to be about equally accurate, so I guess it comes down to whether the Howa is worth the extra $800.

I’d say the tikka is mouth right out of the gate. The ctr has a TFL on coated bolt. The howa felt a little rough at first but after a few hundred rounds it’s nice and smooth. Really can’t go wrong with either.

 

[Steve_O]

Ok no worries. You've been a big help man thanks.

I was intending to clean after every shoot regardless.

I’ve hunted with mine in the snow and light rain, just whipped the barrel down and oiled it afterwards still looks new.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Tikka

 

[Steve_O]

And I don’t know about Howa but if you want a lighter Tikka trigger pull you just need a $10 trigger spring from YoDave. There factory triggers are pretty good as is with the light spring makes it real nice.

 

[CK1.0]

I've heard that Muzzle Breaks just piss people at the range off.
Also, I haven't fired a 6.5CM but from what I understand they're quite low in recoil. Do they need a muzzle break/will muzzle break do much to improve accuracy?

If so, then that's the only downfall to the varmint. The Howa comes with a threaded 26" barrel.

This is tough.

Using a muzzle brake isn't really about accuracy or even about recoil if you're thinking of it in the sense of "softening the kick". It's used more to aid in spotting one's impacts/misses through the scope, which is crucial.

These guns are loud as fuck with or without a brake, but some brakes are less obnoxious than others too.

So having the muzzle threaded is a feature you might want (you could get a Varmint threaded, and some shops will even thread barreled actions without removing the barrel).

I have a Howa 1500 and it's awesome and bombproof so I can recommend them, but the Tikka's are great too, and I'll probably end up with one at some point.

I know you said the TAC A1 will mean you'll have less towards a scope, but it's probably the best all-around out there and scopes have been getting crazy, so dollar for dollar a TAC A1 with an Arken could take you a long way.

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

24" barrel on Tikka Super Varmint.
The recoil lower than a .308, quite a comfortable stock.
Bear in mind the stock on T3X is modular, so you can change grip profile.

 

[Steve_O]

I shot this Antelope in Wyoming with my 6.5 Tikka Varmint at 472 yards. This is my first Tikka and would buy it again very impressed with its performance per dollar.

 

[rbs7500]

I shot this Antelope in Wyoming with my 6.5 Tikka Varmint at 472 yards. This is my first Tikka and would buy it again very impressed with its performance per dollar.

Nice man that's awesome.

Over here for deer hunting there's caliber regulations and 6.5CM can only be used on the smaller deer.

Plan is to have this first rifle as a paper puncher to build skill and then get a .270 or .308 or maybe .300 win for a hunting rig.

As far as I know, 6.5CM is going to make the best all around target rifle.

 

[LeftyJason]

To try to help you decide (and to condense some of the good info above) check out this Tikka buying guide I put together and have updated some over time.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418

 

[rbs7500]

To try to help you decide (and to condense some of the good info above) check out this Tikka buying guide I put together and have updated some over time.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418

Thanks man that was a very informative read.

If I go with the varmint and then upgrade to an MDT Chassis, will it fit the MDT poly mags? Or what would need modding to fit acis mags?

Cheers

 

[LeftyJason]

Thanks man that was a very informative read.

If I go with the varmint and then upgrade to an MDT Chassis, will it fit the MDT poly mags? Or what would need modding to fit acis mags?

Cheers

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