Mounting accessories to the chassis.
- Thread starter Ahogue
- Start date
Mounting accessories to the chassis.
Mine is a factory receiver with a Kidd v-block and an old school Green Mountain barrel. My barrel is offset just a little to the right but very little. Mine is free floated up until about 3" from the receiver.
I successfully fit a Kidd supergrade wIth rear tang in the Bravo stock. This is the newer slip fit barrel type. It did take some dremel work to get it in there with the Kidd single stage trigger. This trigger has a slightly protruding hammer strut and the bolt would not go fully rearward with out cutting a releif for the strut.
it is a very tight fit on the rear of the action and took slight persuasion to get the action seated.
This has the Kidd light weight barrel and is fully free floating. The length of pull is really short as shipped. I attached the 3/4 spacer, a 3/8, and their thick recoil pad.
For those with a centered barrel having trouble with it touching the chassis, i would double check the shelf at the rear of the inlet is being seated in the action correctly. be sure the action slides a little rearward as it is being tilted into place. It was a really tight fit on mine.
it is a very tight fit on the rear of the action and took slight persuasion to get the action seated.
This has the Kidd light weight barrel and is fully free floating. The length of pull is really short as shipped. I attached the 3/4 spacer, a 3/8, and their thick recoil pad.
For those with a centered barrel having trouble with it touching the chassis, i would double check the shelf at the rear of the inlet is being seated in the action correctly. be sure the action slides a little rearward as it is being tilted into place. It was a really tight fit on mine.
My KRG Bravo arrived today, I have a classic slip fit heavy barrel .920 KIDD barrel and V-block, KIDD receiver and trigger (full KIDD build) . During my first test fit, the action fit into the aluminum bedding nice and tight, I had to give the barrel small bump back to seat the rear tang, tightening everything down my bolt bound up, it wouldn't go back all the way, loosened everything back up, the bolt was free again.
I found that the hammer strut on the KIDD trigger housing protruding and hitting the plastic on the stock just below the aluminum bedding, a quick clearance grind on the plastic with a small dremel bit freed everything up. On a KIDD receiver with the rear tang, bring the action in at a slight angle, slide it into the aluminum on the stock, once seated give the barrel a slight bump back towards the tang, it will line up with the rear screw cup. My .920 barrel free floats front to back, perfectly centered with about 1 /16" clearance all around, extremely solid fit around the receaver, KRG did a perfect job on the CNC work, very solid, I couldn't ask for a better fit......well done KRG !
I found that the hammer strut on the KIDD trigger housing protruding and hitting the plastic on the stock just below the aluminum bedding, a quick clearance grind on the plastic with a small dremel bit freed everything up. On a KIDD receiver with the rear tang, bring the action in at a slight angle, slide it into the aluminum on the stock, once seated give the barrel a slight bump back towards the tang, it will line up with the rear screw cup. My .920 barrel free floats front to back, perfectly centered with about 1 /16" clearance all around, extremely solid fit around the receaver, KRG did a perfect job on the CNC work, very solid, I couldn't ask for a better fit......well done KRG !
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Did you find anything out from KRG? I received mine today and it is the same as yours. Touching on the bottom of the barrel channel.
The time difference is screwing up my ability to call. Via email they've asked for pictures, so they could see what's up.
I've retorqued, changed torque sequence, slid action forward, and backwards. I've shimmed the plate above the action screw with a positive effect, etc. I've mounted it to the backbone without the stock. The TacSol barrel and the Kidd V block are new, bought just for this install, and never mounted on anything else. I'll ASSume they are gtg
I've retorqued, changed torque sequence, slid action forward, and backwards. I've shimmed the plate above the action screw with a positive effect, etc. I've mounted it to the backbone without the stock. The TacSol barrel and the Kidd V block are new, bought just for this install, and never mounted on anything else. I'll ASSume they are gtg
LOP - With the Tool-less Buttpad Height Mechanism (available separately), the 3/4" spacer that is included, and thicker KRG Recoil Pad (available separately), my LOP is just over 13.5 inches.
I put a 0.007" shim between the top plate and the receiver and now the barrel floats completely.
Looks like I'm not the only one having issue with barrel not free floating.
I have a Volquartsen Superlite receiver, carbon wrapped barrel, and TG2000 trigger.
First, the V-block isn't flush with the receiver, so the action block, depends on its position, may sit flush with the receiver, or may make contact with the V-block.
When the action block is sitting flush with the receiver (which I assume is how it's suppose to be), the barrel makes contact with the chassis in the front.
With the action screw installed, I can tweak the position so that the action block make contact with the V-block, which pushes the barrel higher and clears the chassis, but I don't think that's how it's suppose to be.
So I think the problem I have is two-fold - 1) the action block is too wide (front-to-back), and 2) the action block isn't thick enough.
So I machined a temporary aluminum replacement block that's narrower, and thicker (same overall thickness, but more on the part above chassis).
With it, the barrel now free floats, but I think the barreled action is tilting up slightly. Not as much if you flip the block, but slightly.
So I think I'm gonna make another one with slightly reduced thickness from +15 thou to +10 thou and see if it works better. Oh and probably make it in stainless.
I've been in contact with Alex @ KRG and he has been really helpful and are trying to get the same barreled action to replicate the problem, but seems like people run into the problem with other setup as well so I say definitely reach out and let them know.
I have a Volquartsen Superlite receiver, carbon wrapped barrel, and TG2000 trigger.
First, the V-block isn't flush with the receiver, so the action block, depends on its position, may sit flush with the receiver, or may make contact with the V-block.
When the action block is sitting flush with the receiver (which I assume is how it's suppose to be), the barrel makes contact with the chassis in the front.
With the action screw installed, I can tweak the position so that the action block make contact with the V-block, which pushes the barrel higher and clears the chassis, but I don't think that's how it's suppose to be.
So I think the problem I have is two-fold - 1) the action block is too wide (front-to-back), and 2) the action block isn't thick enough.
So I machined a temporary aluminum replacement block that's narrower, and thicker (same overall thickness, but more on the part above chassis).
With it, the barrel now free floats, but I think the barreled action is tilting up slightly. Not as much if you flip the block, but slightly.
So I think I'm gonna make another one with slightly reduced thickness from +15 thou to +10 thou and see if it works better. Oh and probably make it in stainless.
I've been in contact with Alex @ KRG and he has been really helpful and are trying to get the same barreled action to replicate the problem, but seems like people run into the problem with other setup as well so I say definitely reach out and let them know.
@derek1ee How thick is your stock action block? Mine measures .201" and my .920" barrel is free floating with no contact between the action and barrel blocks. I do use a gunsmither block that eliminates barrel droop, which might have a slight impact.
If I place the action in the stock without the action block in place (so it's supported by the length of rail under the back half of the action), the barrel is a hairs width from touching the chassis at the front. So even with the stock action block, it's elevating the front of the action and the only other support is a single contact point (on each side) at the very back of the action.
If I place the action in the stock without the action block in place (so it's supported by the length of rail under the back half of the action), the barrel is a hairs width from touching the chassis at the front. So even with the stock action block, it's elevating the front of the action and the only other support is a single contact point (on each side) at the very back of the action.
Both of mine are .2010"
I did the same thing. Big rub one direction, and good to go as in your picture. I can't figure a reason not to do it this way, since it works better.
Mine is 0.202" total thickness, and 0.124" on the wider part which is the critical dimension here. The block I made is 0.1405" on the wider part, I think I can go down to maybe 0.135" and still free float the barrel but no less.
Without the block, my barrel is touching the chassis. But my barrel also has an OD of 0.926" instead of 0.92".
I think the problem is your barreled action is tilting up too much.
Maybe, but now it is oriented as in your picture above. Is that the right way or the wrong way?
Does anyone without a Kidd/rear tang receiver have a good fit in this stock? I just got done fighting mine for over an hour and the only way (Fedderson receiver and Kidd bull barrel with a TG2000 trigger) I could free float the barrel was with 10 pieces of electrical tape over the first cross member of the aluminum chassis (right where it meets the v-block, essentially). After that, I was futzing with it and when I went prone I took a pretty good amount of skin off my middle finger when it scraped on the sharp tails that protrude from the pistol grip to the trigger guard. The fitment in the magwell area/inlet also leaves about an eighth of an inch gap which allows the receiver to slide around quite a bit, although it doesnt seem to lock up tight when bolted in.
Overall, I'm really disappointed in this stock so far. I figured that with an aluminum chassis I'd have a consistent, tight lockup. I also didn't expect to have edges sharp enough to cut myself on it. I also understand that these are issues that can be overcome - I can sand the edges and just leave the pressure pad, but for 275 bucks shipped I'm a little irked and I don't see any additional value in this beyond the Boyd's Blaster I'm looking to replace.
Overall, I'm really disappointed in this stock so far. I figured that with an aluminum chassis I'd have a consistent, tight lockup. I also didn't expect to have edges sharp enough to cut myself on it. I also understand that these are issues that can be overcome - I can sand the edges and just leave the pressure pad, but for 275 bucks shipped I'm a little irked and I don't see any additional value in this beyond the Boyd's Blaster I'm looking to replace.
The plastic definitely needs to be sanded. It's sharp. I'm not willing to touch mine until I know I'm not gonna return it.
Yeah, that's about where I'm at. It's floating nicely now that I've futzed with it, but I don't want to chase a stock and dump a bunch of money and time into this to make it functional. I'm debating just requesting a return/refund and buying something nicer. It stinks, because I want to love it so badly, particularly for the price point. But I imagine I may be further ahead to just drop the big money on a McMillan and be done with it.
I was about to order the Victor Titan, but I wanted the short LOP, than could be lengthened, for my young son, and the Victor was just too long. If I have to modify the stock, maybe it'll be easier to chop the Titan, than fool with the part that secured the action.
The "fix" for the free float has to be permanent and easy, for a couple of reasons, 1). what if I want to sell the stock? the buyer has to know it'll work, 2). to attach accessories, the action and chassis need to come apart. if the fix isn't easily repeatable, then the idea of the chassis isn't appealing.
We are working on a fix for this issue. We are seeing more variation in Action fit than originally tested with different actions we have on hand. We will be making a new action block that will raise the front of the action which should solve this issue. If you are having this issue please send us an email and we will send you a part when they are complete.
So the LGS had a Billet Brownells receiver in stock, so I decided to try it. The Tac Sol barrel is super tight fit, and the Vblock is steel. It still hits the chassis at 6:00 with a brand new billet receiver/V block and a brand new barrel. 
I was able to call KRG this afternoon and had a great conversation with John about the issue and how a fix is already being worked. Awesome to see @AlexKRG getting on here and letting everyone know as well. I was in the same boat as @theJanitor, almost pulled the trigger on a Titan, but the short length of pull fits my kiddo very well and having something very similar to my X-ray was worth waiting for. If I have to wait a little longer for the extra part so be it and if anybody will make sure it’s right, it’s the dudes at KRG.
I have a Ruger receiver with a Kidd .920 barrel and Kidd single stage trigger. When I put the barrel action in, I had to squeeze HARD to snap it into the stock. Then I had to thumb the butt of the stock on the floor to seat it, so the action screw lined up. Mine is in there like a vice. It is centered and free floated. I tried it first without the trigger group and it went in snug. It did scratch the receiver and inside of the stock frame. the scratches are covered up. However I hope I don't need to remove it anytime soon, because I am a little intimated on be able to get it out. The only problem I am having is the 10 round magazines are not dropping out. I have to push them out from the ejection port, with very little effort. However I don't want to try and remove the stock to sand anything. So I am hoping in time the magazines will wear down the rough spot that is catching. which does not feel like much. Over all I feel lucky and got one that works. Hopefully the new butt stock comes out soon, it is way to short !!!
I have problems with some of my magazines not dropping out as well. I have some older Ruger 10 round mags with the black cylinder inside and those work great. It is the newer ones with the red cylinder inside that I am having problems with. I took a couple of the red ones and filed the sides down a little towards the back of the magazine and now they drop out like they should.
I added a shim to get 1/16" of clearance at the front, but now the rear of the receiver seems loose in the chassis. The increased angle of the action in the chassis must decrease contact at the rear. I hope the fix addresses the fact that the action isn't going to sit parallel in the chassis. I guess this is why the guys with a rear tang on the action aren't having issues.
Supergrade
I don't think I had the notch near the receiver buffer at the rear of the receiver aligned correctly with the notch on the rear of the receiver.
I pulled it out to change triggers (from a Kidd single stage to a Kidd double stage) that I was planning previously and it dropped in with some effort. I had to work with it a bit to get the horizontal rear notch lined up with the chassis. However, once I had it aligned correctly it dropped right into place. The fit is very close with much smaller clearances that my Magpul or Victor stocks.
I don't believe that changing the trigger was part of the solution but it was certainly a variable.
I think that's too much shim. In my experiments, I need 0.01~0.015 extra thickness. 1/16 is 6 times that.
I shimmed until there's 1/16" of barrel clearance at the front of the stock, not that I added a 1/16" shim. Sorry for not being more clear
Got my stock and have everything assembled and bore sighted. Haven’t shot it yet.
Stock receiver Brimstone trigger job.
Kidd 20” bull barrel.
Athlon Helos 8-34x56
Cheap ass Harris clone bipod. Atlas coming.
Stock receiver Brimstone trigger job.
Kidd 20” bull barrel.
Athlon Helos 8-34x56
Cheap ass Harris clone bipod. Atlas coming.
Got mine all assembled and needed to add a personal touch. Knockoff manners style. I have a GRX recoil lug I may install and bed it later on. Guess we will do before and after groups.
Factory Ruger receiver
FJ Feddersen 18 in barrel
EGW 20MOA rail
Vortex strike eagle 5-25x56
Ruger BX trigger
Factory Ruger receiver
FJ Feddersen 18 in barrel
EGW 20MOA rail
Vortex strike eagle 5-25x56
Ruger BX trigger
@jingle98 nice custome paint work. My range report is good for the Bravo. Took me a lot of fiddling as the ergos were strage for me. I ended up using a 12.5 length of pull, moving the scope forward about 5/8 inch compared to an ATONE stock. Usual LOP for me is about 13.25 but didnt work that great on this chassis for me. Then the comb was too high for me, and scope already sat in high ringss. So I fabbed up a wooded comb part that is the shorter than the one included with the stock by about .5 inch. it fits me well now and can be adjusted same as the stock part.
The chasis is much stiffer than my wooden stock and it shows it in shooting at 100 yds with notibly tighter groups so a higher X count but kind of close to the same overall score.
The mlocks on the forearm are solid and hold QD sling mounts great. I managed to get a very good location for me for standing and prone using a sling with the QD mounts.
I am liking this chassis.
The chasis is much stiffer than my wooden stock and it shows it in shooting at 100 yds with notibly tighter groups so a higher X count but kind of close to the same overall score.
The mlocks on the forearm are solid and hold QD sling mounts great. I managed to get a very good location for me for standing and prone using a sling with the QD mounts.
I am liking this chassis.
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I got my Bravo and tried it with my two 10/22s:
So now the Bravo goes on the shelf to gather dust. Nice concept but man...the execution here.
- Ruger receiver + 16.5" Kidd
- Kidd Supergrade + 20" Kidd
So now the Bravo goes on the shelf to gather dust. Nice concept but man...the execution here.
Please send us an email with your information. We are working on this now and will send out a new part as soon as they are available
Is this part just going to angle the action/barrel up in the chassis?
That would be my question as well. The logical "fix" would be a thicker action screw plate (for lack of a better term) that lifts the front of the action. And in fact I could get off my lazy ass, cut up a soda can into shims and do the same thing. But what's that going to do to the way the action fits the rest of the chassis? I'm game for whatever they come up with though and look forward to a working chassis.
Two is better than one.
Both are TacSol X-Rings...no fitment issues during install. Will definitely be ordering the tool-less LOP kit when it's available.
Both are TacSol X-Rings...no fitment issues during install. Will definitely be ordering the tool-less LOP kit when it's available.
Read some of this thread again and wonder if anyone is running a Gunsmither barrel retainer? They have fixed a huge number of barrel to stock contact issues. Not saying everyone one has the barrel droop but if you haven't physically measure checked then you can't day you don't either. Even on a Kidd. Blastfamy, I know.
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Yes, there will be a new mounting block that can be used to raise the front of the action. We have also seen some instances where the rear of the receiver is not a tight fit. We will also provide a solution to create a tighter rear fit for those that experience this.
Mine was fixed with a tac sol v block.
Do I have to ask for this separately?
No, we will send you both.
And no pics?
any pics of the pieces? mine hasn't arrived yet
I put it together. I don’t feel like taking it apart. The kit consists of a thicker top mounting block and two shims. The shims are for a loose fitting receiver. I did not have that issue. I only had the barrel not free floating problem.
Here are pictures from the instructions to give you an idea of what you get.
Here you can see the location the shims go.
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