- Thread starter Ahogue
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I just received my stock today. I put my rifle together using Brownells receiver and everything thing else Kidd. It dropped right in the stock. I was able to slide the folded instructions between the barrel and stock. I have the adjustable buttpad coming but I may need more shims. The LOP is really short.
@jingle98 how is your setup shooting? I have a Feddersen 16.25" barrel in a Ruger receiver and am getting 5-6" groups at 50 yards with CCI SV. It looks like I am going to have to try bedding it or something.
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Ruger receiver, Feddersen 16.25" stainless bull barrel threaded, brimstone trigger.
I had installed the thicker "B" plate from KRG so the barrel would fully float as well as the thicker shim for the rear of the action to tighten up the rear of the receiver. With that configuration, I was getting 5" + at 50 yards.
I removed the shim from the rear of the action and my groups are down to 2" at 50 yards with CCI SV.
I had this barreled action in a laminated stock before the Bravo and with the laminated stock, I was getting under 1" groups at 50 yards with the same lot of CCI SV.
Those with the Ruger receivers, what size groups are you getting with your Bravo?
Those with the Kidd receiver and the rear tang, what size groups are you getting?
Trying to figure out if I need to order a Kidd receiver with the rear tang to be able to get the Bravo to work well.
I had installed the thicker "B" plate from KRG so the barrel would fully float as well as the thicker shim for the rear of the action to tighten up the rear of the receiver. With that configuration, I was getting 5" + at 50 yards.
I removed the shim from the rear of the action and my groups are down to 2" at 50 yards with CCI SV.
I had this barreled action in a laminated stock before the Bravo and with the laminated stock, I was getting under 1" groups at 50 yards with the same lot of CCI SV.
Those with the Ruger receivers, what size groups are you getting with your Bravo?
Those with the Kidd receiver and the rear tang, what size groups are you getting?
Trying to figure out if I need to order a Kidd receiver with the rear tang to be able to get the Bravo to work well.
With a Kidd and ammo it likes, just under an MOA average at 50. Ten groups of five shots averaged .427 inch with a stddev of .17 inch. Very reliable MOAish average. This is with correcting shots for. wind of 3MPH or less. Higher wind, even with correction, i would get larger groups.
Still havent gotten out to rezero mine but @FormerFarmer something definitely sounds off with yours. Especially if you went from 1" to 5" with the same lot of ammo
I had installed the thicker shim that KRG supplied for the rear of the action and that is when it shot 5". I remove the rear shim, now it is at 2". I am thinking that this barrel maybe likes to be supported not free floated. Need to try that next.
I am consistently hitting my 1in steel targets passed 100 yds. I have not needed to do anything to mine other than install. I guess I would just make sure that there isn't any rocking in the chassis. I had that problem in my last magpul stock. possibility you are fighting that? are you torquing everything to spec also ? you may wanna mess with the action screw torque ?
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@FormerFarmer you might also want to double check your bbl clamp.
Is that a Supergrade receiver? Is that how it mounts? I emailed KRG for photos/info on Supergrade mounting and they didn't have anything for me.
Just ordered my Bravo for my Kidd Supergrade, fingers crossed it works.
They're making a tool-less LOP specifically for the 10/22 stock.
Quoted from the original "KRG New Products 2020 official..." thread:
7. Tool-less Length of Pull for 10/22 Bravo- A low cost version, it only fits the 10/22 and has buttpad height adjustment also which requires a hex wrench. Cost under $50.
@Massoud Any ETA for Tool-less LOP?
I made my own it isn’t adjustable but with a little bit more work it could be. Still trying to decide if I’m gonna paint or polish it.
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For grins and giggles, I decided to see if I could drop a Ruger Custom Shop build into my chassis. The rifle has a rear receiver screw that screws into the receiver's screw housing from the bottom of the Custom Shop stock, but it turns out that when you flip the receiver over, the screw housing is bolted on to the receiver, so I removed the rear screw housing and the barreled receiver dropped into the KRG Bravo. I'd put an Eotech with a 4x Sig magnifier on that rifle, and the KRG stock geometry is much kinder for that optical setup. It appears possible to make a replacement screw housing that would mate to the rear screw setup of the KRG stock, but I haven't taken what I've got out for a range trial yet.
www.ruger.com
Ruger® 10/22® Competition Autoloading Rifle Model 31147
www.ruger.com Tool-less LOP is available on the site now.
kineticresearchgroup.com
Rimfire Tool-less LOP – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com 
I tried emailing but can anyone confirm that tool-less height and tool-less LOP will work together on this?
KRG varified they will work together just fine.
KRG varified they will work together just fine.
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On their Instagram page they said you would have to remove some poly to make room for the thumb wheel screw.
Correct. He called me back again to say that same thing. I'll just skip the cant/height part
So get the KRG or a Titan?
For grins and giggles, I decided to see if I could drop a Ruger Custom Shop build into my chassis. The rifle has a rear receiver screw that screws into the receiver's screw housing from the bottom of the Custom Shop stock, but it turns out that when you flip the receiver over, the screw housing is bolted on to the receiver, so I removed the rear screw housing and the barreled receiver dropped into the KRG Bravo. I'd put an Eotech with a 4x Sig magnifier on that rifle, and the KRG stock geometry is much kinder for that optical setup. It appears possible to make a replacement screw housing that would mate to the rear screw setup of the KRG stock, but I haven't taken what I've got out for a range trial yet.
Ruger® 10/22® Competition Autoloading Rifle Model 31147
I've got the same thing, and experienced the same thing.
I pointed it out to KRG and they basically said that all 10/22's attach from the front bolt and that should be sufficient.
I don't entirely think that's the case, and the custom shop 10/22 is pretty heavy... but they are right that most 10/22s mount in the front.
Just ordered a grey Bravo to replace a Titan
Stealth Grey
Hook style cover
KIDD hardware
Adjustable LOP kit
KRG recoil pad
Stealth Grey
Hook style cover
KIDD hardware
Adjustable LOP kit
KRG recoil pad
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Also, curious if the Titan anchor can be modified to fit the bravo. Would appreciate some feedback whenever someone has the opportunity to compare side by side. Have a great weekend.
I dont have both in front of me but I doubt they will be cross compatible. The bravo uses the kidd anchor and the titan uses its own that is taller if memory serves.
Fair enough, thank you
Hi,
can anyone confirm if removing the rear tang from the Ruger 10/22 CSC is enough to have it working in the KRG Bravo Chassis?
I blindly ordered the KRG setup without paying attention this disclaimer =(
"*Not compatible with take-down models or receivers with a rear tang that has a bottom mounting action screw (ex: Ruger 10/22 Competition)."
would love to use this instead of the stock chassis, I prefer the angle of the krg grip... else have to deal with the return..thanks!
Does it really say that on their website??
Heh... they told me is was totally find to have the one mounting screw.
Heh... they told me is was totally find to have the one mounting screw.
yeah.. https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/1022bravo-chassis-rimfire/ .. they never mentioned removal of the rear tang when I emailed them.. the chassis is supposed to arrive later today, I'd hate to send it back.. .. if anyone can confirm it funs fine without the tang I'd greatly appreciate it!
If the receiver has the same shape as the standard receiver without the tang it should work.
Does anyone know what external QD cups I need to get for this?
I just mine in today for a t/cr22 and it took some time to get it to drop in but it's working now.
I would assume it's this one but wanted to see about way to use to make it a dual rear cup.
kineticresearchgroup.com
I just mine in today for a t/cr22 and it took some time to get it to drop in but it's working now.
I would assume it's this one but wanted to see about way to use to make it a dual rear cup.
QD Sling Cup – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com Last edited:
Confirming that removal of the rear tang is needed for successful install .. will test out new version spigot mount that is supposedly compatible with the heavy barrel.. however I notice the index trigger finger is constantly scraping against the open gap towards the rear of the trigger guard.
Any suggestion how to smooth out the edges of that gap? Or maybe just apply some tape..
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If doing ambi cups on rear need that one and one of these:Does anyone know what external QD cups I need to get for this?
I just mine in today for a t/cr22 and it took some time to get it to drop in but it's working now.
I would assume it's this one but wanted to see about way to use to make it a dual rear cup.
QD Sling Cup – Kinetic Research Group
IIRC I also had to hit the hardware store for a longer screw than they provided.
Once they figure out the rear tang for non KIDD actions I'll grab one of these.
Could you share what screw/size you got for this?
Thanks!
Yeah, I sanded down all the sharp edges. Got a little sloppy and now it has a bit of a distressed look to it.
Yes was 10-24 x 3/4" for the Magpul cup threads
EDIT:
the 3/4" was for full size Bravo, if the 10/22 is thinner there try a 5/8"
Just got a Bravo for my MLR 1722. This is a big upgrade over the stock that came with the rifle.
Hey all, use the 10-24 x 3/4" as this will make the bottom of the screw flush with the bottom of the Magpul type 2 socket.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Any work needed? I have the same rifle and looking to go with the bravo.
Nothing special. Just had to install the 2 shims that came with it to hold the rear tight and invert the front spacer to tighten it up a bit.
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