POLL: First Precision Rifle build - Which would you choose?

Tikka build, Badrock/Masterpiece Arms, or Budget custom?

  • Tikka $1650

    Votes: 26 20.5%
  • MPA PMR/BadRock South Fork $2000

    Votes: 19 15.0%
  • Custom (Zermatt Origin/Kelbly Atlas) $2600ish

    Votes: 82 64.6%

  • Total voters
    127

McJerkins

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I will be acquiring my first precision rifle within the next few weeks and I have a few questions. I initially planned on buying a Tikka CTR and only replace the trigger springs and stock. Figured stock barrel is supposed to be accurate, even if kind of slow, and a decent-enough profile for a newbie. However, the price of doing so will be about $1650... just $300-400 away from new production rifles such as the BadRock South Fork and MasterPiece Arms PMR rifle. I would most likely sell the stock from either of those production rifles and replace it with a KRG Bravo stock. But at that point, I could spend a few hundred more and build off a Kelbly or Origin (as I have narrowed my action choices down to those 2 if I build myself - Custom build idea posted below.). If I go with the Tikka or MPA PMR I can get started shooting soon. BadRock or Custom build will take 2-3 months before I get started practicing. Also, why do I see people bashing Curtis Custom actions? The only negative thing I have seen specified would be long wait times and poor customer service from around 2019. Has this been cleared up? People seem to like the Curtis Axiom, and it's in the MPA PMR I almost purchased yesterday day. I held off because of mixed reviews of the company itself. Thanks!

Custom Build Plan

Zermatt Origin or Kelbly Atlas Action - $900-1000
Brux, Mullerworks, Bartlein, or PROOF s/s barrel (whatever is available at the time, seems to be many good manufacturers out there) - $600 after fitment?
KRG Bravo - $400
TriggerTech Special - $200
Muzzle Device - Got it
Bipod - Got it

TOTAL - $2600ish
 
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FALex

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I saw a complete GAP build in 6.5CM in a McMillan A5 for 2k on here very recently. I can't remember which action it had, but I believe it was a Templar V2. Although it had 1350 rounds through it, that would have been a damn great buy at that price.

Honestly, OP, I would hold your cash and just be diligent about watching the classifieds here. Since you are in the 2k range with what you're currently pondering, I would lean on any of the custom actions that allow for prefit barrels.

Tikka makes a great action, but if you're thinking precision rifle shooting is going to be an ongoing hobby for you, I would upgrade the action over a Tikka.
 

McJerkins

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Origin $900
Criterion $350
Bravo $400
Triggertech diamond $300

$1950

Can’t go wrong with either of the other two others but if your that set on the bravo, above is what I would do.

Hmmm ok, I was seeing that certain people had reservations about pre-fit setups due to the possibility of there being too much variance in headspacing. I've built multiple ARs, so I'm confident in the assembly side of things, but was worried about barrel/action fitment here considering that accuracy is more important here than my carbines. I definitely wanted to do the work myself but knew I couldn't if I had to get a barrel fitted. I'll look more into the simple solution of a pre-fit.
 

McJerkins

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I’d do the origin proof prefits are easily available at good prices. Easy to change out the bolt head and barrels if you ever wanted to do a 223
Trainer.
This first gun will be chambered in .308 and I only plan to swap it for 6.5cm or 6mm Creed after I spend a year or 2 learning how to really shoot. I was hoping that having to deal with extra effect of gravity and wind with the .308 might accelerate my learning. I think match .308 might be similar in cost to match .223 (ignoring the lower recoil we would want from a "trainer"). Also, I have a BCM AR and all .223/5.56 duties would be reserved for that rifle.
 

BiggBeans

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Origin Action $900
Proof Prefit $800
Trigger Tech $250
Bravo $400

This set up will do everything you want it to do. accurate. Serviceable. This is what i did and couldnt be happier.
 

DeathBeforeDismount

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Hmmm ok, I was seeing that certain people had reservations about pre-fit setups due to the possibility of there being too much variance in headspacing. I've built multiple ARs, so I'm confident in the assembly side of things, but was worried about barrel/action fitment here considering that accuracy is more important here than my carbines. I definitely wanted to do the work myself but knew I couldn't if I had to get a barrel fitted. I'll look more into the simple solution of a pre-fit.
Don't believe everything you read. Anyone talking shit about pre fits is a moron.

Stick with Zermat over the Curtis. Unless you like replacing bolt stops when they shear off.

There are so many options everyone will just spout out whatever they have. Get out and shoot a bunch of shit and find out what you like, from triggers, to actions to stocks. Otherwise you are just wasting time and money.

Whoever said to buy new is also a moron. Buy used and save money (And taxes). That way if you decide you don't like it you can flip it and not lose much if any. You can find great deals here on the hide, people are always selling good stuff for good prices.
 

McJerkins

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Don't believe everything you read. Anyone talking shit about pre fits is a moron.

Stick with Zermat over the Curtis. Unless you like replacing bolt stops when they shear off.

There are so many options everyone will just spout out whatever they have. Get out and shoot a bunch of shit and find out what you like, from triggers, to actions to stocks. Otherwise you are just wasting time and money.

Whoever said to buy new is also a moron. Buy used and save money (And taxes). That way if you decide you don't like it you can flip it and not lose much if any. You can find great deals here on the hide, people are always selling good stuff for good prices.
Thanks for the info, especially the statement regarding the Curtis actions... You are the first person here to address that question I had. By no means was I was asking people to talk sh*t on them, but was asking more for a run-down on why I'd seen a few people have strong opinions against that company (with your comment about a potential mechanical deficiency being exactly what I was looking for).

Taxes were something I considered and I found a few firearms websites to get the Tikka or production rifles from which would not charge sales tax to online purchases headed to my state. I will keep my eye out for WTS listings on this site, but I am so particular about stuff like this. I'd almost rather just wait on the items for my build to show up and just buy the build items individually, but not new, over buying a pre-existing build. Maybe that's what I should do. That way I still get exactly what I want but save some money incase I don't end up satisfied with the end-result.
 

DeathBeforeDismount

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I competed with a tikka before going to a custom action (still use them for hunting rifles). They can be made to work but you will dump a bunch of money into them and you will not get the benefits of a good custom action like the Impact or Terminus. Plenty of people like defiance, Big Horn, ARC, BAT, ect.

Half of the PRS competitors are running an impact action, that kind of speaks for itself. If i was buying new today and starting out, that is where I would go for a bunch of reasons, including plentiful barrels, stocks, parts all in stock. You can build a full impact gun in less than a week using manners or foundation stock.

Most people buy and sell a bunch of stuff before getting to what they really like and end up using. I would expect if you stick with this, you will do the same.

If you can wait, the GAP PPR rifles will go on sale in September for a few days. You can't really beat them for $2500. They do 100 rifles a year and they sell out fast, but you are getting a rifle that will shoot with the best of them for half what a full custom build would cost.

There are just so many options out there you really have to get out and shoot and try a bunch of stuff to see what works for you. Some guys like stocks, some like chassis, some like cheap scoppes some like expensive ones. Some guys like cans some like brakes. The options are endless and no one but you can decide what you like.
 

GMZ

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This first gun will be chambered in .308 and I only plan to swap it for 6.5cm or 6mm Creed after I spend a year or 2 learning how to really shoot. I was hoping that having to deal with extra effect of gravity and wind with the .308 might accelerate my learning. I think match .308 might be similar in cost to match .223 (ignoring the lower recoil we would want from a "trainer"). Also, I have a BCM AR and all .223/5.56 duties would be reserved for that rifle.

In that case get a 223 Origin/Criterion/Bravo/TT and run 75/77s at 2900-3000.

Cheaper to shoot than a 308 and you’ll get a quick education in wind.
 

Ty21

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I would do an origin with proof and call it a day I had an origin and it was a great action for the money just wanted to tl3 instead
 
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McJerkins

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I went full retard and ordered one from GA Precision. lol.
I'd love to, but I like cars more than guns. lol Got an automobile project I'm working on right now, so I don't want to throw toooo much at a firearm. Calling GAP in a year or 2 for a full product for my next gun and playing around with this first purchase sounds like a good idea.
 
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McJerkins

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I competed with a tikka before going to a custom action (still use them for hunting rifles). They can be made to work but you will dump a bunch of money into them and you will not get the benefits of a good custom action like the Impact or Terminus. Plenty of people like defiance, Big Horn, ARC, BAT, ect.

Half of the PRS competitors are running an impact action, that kind of speaks for itself. If i was buying new today and starting out, that is where I would go for a bunch of reasons, including plentiful barrels, stocks, parts all in stock. You can build a full impact gun in less than a week using manners or foundation stock.

Most people buy and sell a bunch of stuff before getting to what they really like and end up using. I would expect if you stick with this, you will do the same.

If you can wait, the GAP PPR rifles will go on sale in September for a few days. You can't really beat them for $2500. They do 100 rifles a year and they sell out fast, but you are getting a rifle that will shoot with the best of them for half what a full custom build would cost.

There are just so many options out there you really have to get out and shoot and try a bunch of stuff to see what works for you. Some guys like stocks, some like chassis, some like cheap scoppes some like expensive ones. Some guys like cans some like brakes. The options are endless and no one but you can decide what you like.
Thanks for the info. I'll definitely keep an eye out for the GAP sale because they seem to be a top-tier choice. The issue with trying out new stuff is that my closest range with over 300yd target is about 2 hr away, and it requires a membership, so I was waiting to purchase this rifle before I went out there. Oh well. I have a Magpul X-22 stock on my 10/22 and it feels nice. Figured the KRG Bravo would feel similar and it'd be a good choice. I'm not thinking I'll regret that but could always just sell the stock if I didn't like it. Also, the reason I wanted the Tikka was for the shorter bolt throw. If Impact is the primary choice for PRS shooters, why do they use the 90* throw? Does this not bother people as much as I think it would?
 

DJL2

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Thanks for the info. I'll definitely keep an eye out for the GAP sale because they seem to be a top-tier choice. The issue with trying out new stuff is that my closest range with over 300yd target is about 2 hr away, and it requires a membership, so I was waiting to purchase this rifle before I went out there. Oh well. I have a Magpul X-22 stock on my 10/22 and it feels nice. Figured the KRG Bravo would feel similar and it'd be a good choice. I'm not thinking I'll regret that but could always just sell the stock if I didn't like it. Also, the reason I wanted the Tikka was for the shorter bolt throw. If Impact is the primary choice for PRS shooters, why do they use the 90* throw? Does this not bother people as much as I think it would?
Re: Bolt Throw.
1. shorter throw often means higher cocking force and harder bolt manipulation; that’s not desirable
2. the difference between 60 and 90 is basically irrelevant from a speed perspective
3. It might matter from an optics clearance and comfort perspective depending on your rig
 

trob_205

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    Man… playing the “well If I spent a little bit more” is dangerous in this game lol. You can always spend “little bit more” and before you know it, a couple “little bit mores” cost you an extra $1000. The Tikka is a great action to start with and is full capable as a factory rifle setup. If you plan on playing games your money MIGHT be spent better and a little heavier barrel in an Orgin, but even then I’d say there’s a lot bigger fish to fry when starting off. Phil Velayo has some awesome YouTube videos on building on a CTR.
     

    The D

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    If you can justify the extra cost to yourself then a custom is absolutely the way to go. Especially since it’s so easy to convert to other cartridges if you so desire
     
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    McJerkins

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    Re: Bolt Throw.
    1. shorter throw often means higher cocking force and harder bolt manipulation; that’s not desirable
    2. the difference between 60 and 90 is basically irrelevant from a speed perspective
    3. It might matter from an optics clearance and comfort perspective depending on your rig
    Ah, ok. So I wasn't aware of the downsides... It'd be better if I disregarded the bolt throw all-together. Thanks.

    Man… playing the “well If I spent a little bit more” is dangerous in this game lol. You can always spend “little bit more” and before you know it, a couple “little bit mores” cost you an extra $1000. The Tikka is a great action to start with and is full capable as a factory rifle setup. If you plan on playing games your money MIGHT be spent better and a little heavier barrel in an Orgin, but even then I’d say there’s a lot bigger fish to fry when starting off. Phil Velayo has some awesome YouTube videos on building on a CTR.
    Yes, you are very right about the money game. lol I have seen a ton of videos regarding my original post, but I wanted to know what the people here would suggest. I'm more concerned with the experience of regular guys than the experience of pro shooters or youtubers. Thanks.
     
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    OREGUN

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    Have you seen this?

     

    Wiillk

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    There are a number of good choices. I counsel, don't go cheap, but go reasonable and forget the middle steps. I am sure I will be blasted to death, but forget .308. If you go 6.5 CM, you can continue to use the brass with 6 CM. If you are really brave go down to 6GT, but at this time not the 6BR and its relatives. The BR class works great but getting it to feed might be difficult (all you 6BR, 6BRX, 6Dasher devotees please NOTE, I said MIGHT)

    Anyway, important point is getting something that works right out of the gate. Building is great, but the MPA, BadRock or GAP, can pretty much do what you want, learn the sport and not have to worry about the gun. Finally, If you go 6.5 CM you may, or may not ever feel the need to switch. Lots of folks make fun of the 6.5 but it works, and if you make that choice, you will be saving all the mess of having a set of dies, boxes of bullets, bags of brass lying around or trying to dispose of. And if you do decided to change, most of the powders, primers and possibly even the brass can be reused. H4350, Superformance, Staball, possibly even Varget work great in the 6.5, the 6 and the 6GT as does BR4's and CCI 450's, none of which are even close to optimal with the .308.
     
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    McJerkins

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    Have you seen this?

    I did, yesterday... I am leaning towards .308, in addition to having reservations about the Curtis actions until I could dig a little deeper into that topic. Also, I can get the regular MPA PMR for $1850 shipped, so that's probably what I would do instead of buying that PMR Pro.
     

    Franko

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    Set a budget. Then sit in the PX and watch as the guns come up for sale. Something that scratches your itch will come along and the price will be right. Best part is if you hate it, you can flip it back into the PX and not lose much money at all.
     

    High Desert duck

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    There are a number of good choices. I counsel, don't go cheap, but go reasonable and forget the middle steps. I am sure I will be blasted to death, but forget .308. If you go 6.5 CM, you can continue to use the brass with 6 CM. If you are really brave go down to 6GT, but at this time not the 6BR and its relatives. The BR class works great but getting it to feed might be difficult (all you 6BR, 6BRX, 6Dasher devotees please NOTE, I said MIGHT)
    ^^^^^^This advice is right on. I hear people all the time say they want to learn on a .308. They don’t. They often get frustrated and quit. If you want to play the Prs game you need to be able to make calls for yourself on the clock. They means seeing the Impact (hopefully) or seeing the splash when you miss. I’m a match director for our club and a lot of guys shooting that .308 for there first gun don’t always stay around. It can be very frustrating and hinder your development particularly shooting other than prone.
    I would not advise anything more powerful than 6.5 creed. If you load, I’d do 6gt (there is factory ammo available, but how much for how long?) 6 creed if you don’t load. (Cheaper than 6.5 which will help offset barrel wear/replacement)

    As far as action out of the 2 you list I’d go Kelbly’s (with upgraded bolt stop) a small step up$ I’d do an impact or a lone peak fusion. I like the spring eject more than the manual. And the impact just runs.
     

    trob_205

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    Yes, you are very right about the money game. lol I have seen a ton of videos regarding my original post, but I wanted to know what the people here would suggest. I'm more concerned with the experience of regular guys than the experience of pro shooters or youtubers. Thanks.

    The regular guy thing sounds good until you actually think about it. Don’t get me wrong, The Hide is a good source of info. Asking JoeShooterSchmo1234 his advise and some one like Phil’s, and being more concerned about what Joe told you is completely ass backward. Good luck with your build.
     
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    fvalmostthere

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    Hmmm ok, I was seeing that certain people had reservations about pre-fit setups due to the possibility of there being too much variance in headspacing. I've built multiple ARs, so I'm confident in the assembly side of things, but was worried about barrel/action fitment here considering that accuracy is more important here than my carbines. I definitely wanted to do the work myself but knew I couldn't if I had to get a barrel fitted. I'll look more into the simple solution of a pre-fit.
    I just upgraded from a savage with a prefit shilen to a Zeus with a bartlein but my savage shilen combo shot great. My buddy had exactly what I recommended to you minus the bravo and liked that as well. Depends what you want to spend but I wouldn’t be scared of a savage prefit.
     

    McJerkins

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    ^^^^^^This advice is right on. I hear people all the time say they want to learn on a .308. They don’t. They often get frustrated and quit. If you want to play the Prs game you need to be able to make calls for yourself on the clock. They means seeing the Impact (hopefully) or seeing the splash when you miss. I’m a match director for our club and a lot of guys shooting that .308 for there first gun don’t always stay around. It can be very frustrating and hinder your development particularly shooting other than prone.
    I would not advise anything more powerful than 6.5 creed. If you load, I’d do 6gt (there is factory ammo available, but how much for how long?) 6 creed if you don’t load. (Cheaper than 6.5 which will help offset barrel wear/replacement)

    As far as action out of the 2 you list I’d go Kelbly’s (with upgraded bolt stop) a small step up$ I’d do an impact or a lone peak fusion. I like the spring eject more than the manual. And the impact just runs.
    Hmm Ok, I'll put more thought into cartridge selection. I wanted to learn load development but didn't want to pick up too many new things at once, so that may be further down the road. I don't see reloading materials coming down in price anytime soon...
     
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    The D

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    They’re at least becoming a tiny bit more available though
     
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    McJerkins

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    I just upgraded from a savage with a prefit shilen to a Zeus with a bartlein but my savage shilen combo shot great. My buddy had exactly what I recommended to you minus the bravo and liked that as well. Depends what you want to spend but I wouldn’t be scared of a savage prefit.
    Hell, I still haven't totally dismissed the idea of a $700 Howa Oryx to see if I will even enjoy long-range shooting... but I definitely want something nicer if I decided this was any fun at all and would want to IMMEDIATELY upgrade. A Howa Oryx doesn't make me as happy as any of those other choices. Not a fan of the gun, not a fan of the chassis, and firearms is an industry where we often get what we pay for. I could get a Howa Oryx for $700 out the door. I bet I could most of my money back even if I had to sell barreled action and chassis separate from eachother... Or just keep as a loaner rifle. But that idea doesn't get me going like a custom or even Tikka build does.
     

    McJerkins

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    The regular guy thing sounds good until you actually think about it. Don’t get me wrong, The Hide is a good source of info. Asking JoeShooterSchmo1234 his advise and some one like Phil’s, and being more concerned about what Joe told you is completely ass backward. Good luck with your build.

    I've definitely tried to learn what I can from the Eagle Eye Shooting, X-Ring, IMPACTSHOOTING, Cylcops Optics reviews, Affordable Optics & Rifle Reviews, IsYour6Covered... Thanks!
     

    DJL2

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    Hell, I still haven't totally dismissed the idea of a $700 Howa Oryx to see if I will even enjoy long-range shooting... but I definitely want something nicer if I decided this was any fun at all and would want to IMMEDIATELY upgrade. A Howa Oryx doesn't make me as happy as any of those other choices. Not a fan of the gun, not a fan of the chassis, and firearms is an industry where we often get what we pay for. I could get a Howa Oryx for $700 out the door. I bet I could most of my money back even if I had to sell barreled action and chassis separate from eachother... Or just keep as a loaner rifle. But that idea doesn't get me going like a custom or even Tikka build does.
    Take a course somewhere that has house/loaner guns. You’ll get a good start into the basics with proper instruction AND an opportunity to try a nicely done up rig. Worst case, you have a fun weekend with like minded individuals and realize that maybe it’s not your thing, but you learned a lot (and can impress your friends by talking about smacking steel at 1000, heh). Best case, you get a head start into the sport and make better decisions about your gear.
     

    MakeSawdust

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    Origin $900
    Criterion $350
    Bravo $400
    Triggertech diamond $300

    $1950

    Can’t go wrong with either of the other two others but if your that set on the bravo, above is what I would do.
    I would also recommend this as a budget build. My 10 yr old daughter is running this exact setup in matches. I have had a shitload of Criterion savage prefits (10-15 lost count) and I still run them as practice barrels in 223 wylde with the barrel nut red loctited to hold headspace when removed. All have been capable of .5 moa (several MUCH better) with mediocre components. (I have never run high end brass or berger bullets in any of them. They are for applications where good enough is okay.)

    I have both an origin and 2 TL3s. Zermatt is a GREAT company to deal with. The TL3 has a lighter bolt lift and integral lug if you ever plan on using it as a switch barrel. The origin is cheaper and very good for what you pay.

    When I want a no compromises, as good as it can get gun, I have my gunsmith chamber a good blank and run Lapua, Alpha, or Peterson brass and Berger bullets. With an exceptional chambering job and good components, even the bad loads tend to shoot 1/2 to 5/8 moa and an exceptional shooting load is very easy to find. You do feel it more in the pocketbook though.

    If you are not sure if you will stick with it, a Howa is not a bad option. You will definitely want to upgrade if you get serious about competing in matches. If you just become a casual long range shooter, the Howa may suffice forever.
     
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    ]\/[ission]\/[an

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    Id like to buy a Cobalt Kinetics EDGE 5.56 (priced $3,240.00 as seen in the pic) with billet stock being a precision type OR id simply custom build my own. Likely, id build my own. The EDGE is a spectacular model though.
    Edge-Black-16-EdgeBrake-CobaltStock-CobaltGrip.jpg
     

    TapRackBang

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    Origin $900
    Criterion $350
    Bravo $400
    Triggertech diamond $300

    $1950

    Can’t go wrong with either of the other two others but if your that set on the bravo, above is what I would do.
    I built almost this exact setup and very happy. Don’t let a barrel but turn you off and Criterion makes a very good barrel.

    Call James at Northland Shooters Supply he will take care of you.
     
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    McJerkins

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    I would also recommend this as a budget build. My 10 yr old daughter is running this exact setup in matches.
    I have both an origin and 2 TL3s. Zermatt is a GREAT company to deal with. The TL3 has a lighter bolt lift and integral lug if you ever plan on using it as a switch barrel. The origin is cheaper and very good for what you pay.

    If you are not sure if you will stick with it, a Howa is not a bad option. You will definitely want to upgrade if you get serious about competing in matches. If you just become a casual long range shooter, the Howa may suffice forever.
    Thanks for the comparison of both Zermatt actions! This is something I was curious about. A custom gun seems to be the best choice... it's definitely winning the poll and that shows in the comments. And I've always been a fan of something which is entirely mine. I'm sure that's not an uncommon preference around here... and I've already begun looking for parts. We'll see how long it takes to come together.
     

    McJerkins

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    I built almost this exact setup and very happy. Don’t let a barrel but turn you off and Criterion makes a very good barrel.

    Call James at Northland Shooters Supply he will take care of you.
    Cool, I'll keep that in mind! Thanks. It seems that some custom barrel manufacturers create a more accurate product than others, but they should all be more accurate than I will need for a while. lol
     

    akmike47

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    I'm thinking about a remage setup so I can rebarrel or swap calibers myself.
     
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    KnowNothing256

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    I'm thinking about a remage setup so I can rebarrel or swap calibers myself.
    You're better off with a custom action that takes prefits. I just switched off a Bergara barrel-nut setup cause I'd rather have shouldered prefits, among other reasons.

    And sinking what it costs to get a base R700 action to what it "can" be costs just about what you'd pay for a custom, with better resale value on the latter.

    OP, I'd advise you to stay away from the Howa. Cheaper to get into, but harder to move if you decide you want out, and much harder to support aftermarket. Stick with the R700 ecosphere, and I think an Origin with prefits is a strong choice.

    Now, I'll caution you on that Bravo: it'll cost you more to mount an ARCA rail, which I expect you'll quickly want to do, so price that in when comparing chassis costs. Also bear in mind that most chassis don't require bottom metal, while most "stocks" do, and that adds anywhere from $100 to almost $300.
     

    akmike47

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  • Feb 23, 2013
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    You're better off with a custom action that takes prefits. I just switched off a Bergara barrel-nut setup cause I'd rather have shouldered prefits, among other reasons.

    And sinking what it costs to get a base R700 action to what it "can" be costs just about what you'd pay for a custom, with better resale value on the latter.

    OP, I'd advise you to stay away from the Howa. Cheaper to get into, but harder to move if you decide you want out, and much harder to support aftermarket. Stick with the R700 ecosphere, and I think an Origin with prefits is a strong choice.

    Now, I'll caution you on that Bravo: it'll cost you more to mount an ARCA rail, which I expect you'll quickly want to do, so price that in when comparing chassis costs. Also bear in mind that most chassis don't require bottom metal, while most "stocks" do, and that adds anywhere from $100 to almost $300.
    Factory action, every barrel has to be fit so the remage makes more sense for me. I have a shouldered Brux now.
     

    Herb Stoner

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    I picked up one of the package deals from Frontrange Precision and couldn’t be happier. Went with a TL3, proof SS prefit, and TT trigger. Action wrench from him also. Put it together myself with no issues (Never done it before but pretty straightforward). As I bought a barrel vise to install the barrel, I can change barrels any time. Went with 6.5 CM to start as ammo was available and it shoots exceptionally well. I‘m acquiring reloading components for 6GT so will be ordering another barrel from him soon. He lists the “kit“ in the PX from time to time but contact him and he”ll set you up with what you want. Straight answers on everything including lead times for what I wanted.