Remington 700 Varmint SF build

[HNemes]

Has anyone ever built a decent 600-1000 yard gun based on this variant? Wondering what all I should do to get it there, the action seems to be fairly trued as far as the “wear” signs on the bolt where it locks up. Should I get it blueprinted or just chuck it in chassis and go from there?

Thanks for any input,
HNemes

 

[FuhQ]

Has anyone ever built a decent 600-1000 yard gun based on this variant? Wondering what all I should do to get it there, the action seems to be fairly trued as far as the “wear” signs on the bolt where it locks up. Should I get it blueprinted or just chuck it in chassis and go from there?

Thanks for any input,
HNemes

I've built a bunch of rifles using repurposed and worked-over factory Sendero, PSS, and Varmint barrels on 700 actions.

If you're wanting to verify true, I'd have it blueprinted. It's not that expensive, and if they're already working on the rifle, it won't add much to the cost, but will add peace of mind in the end knowing it's trued.

If you are reusing the factory barrel, have the lug shoulder trued in a lathe, and the threads chased. Have the bore hand-lapped. Have them cut a thread or 2 off the barrel, and then re-cut the chamber with a nice sharp fresh match reamer to verify spec and headspacing. Have them thread the barrel 5/8x24, and then cut an 11º recessed target crown. Make sure everything done to the barrel is done bore-centric. Spin it back onto the newly blueprinted action and check headspace.

I'd have them cut the bolt knob off and TIG weld a tactical bolt knob while they had it, but that's just me. Then have them cerakote the whole thing 1 matching finish.

 

[spife7980]

Just put it in a chassis or stock if you want. Don’t need to true it at all, if you want a new barrel just remage it yourself.

 

[FuhQ]

If your smith charges you a lot to do all the barrel work on the factory barrel, then you might end up cheaper to buy a nice pre-fluted Bartlein 5R blank and start from there, get the action blueprinted, and then have the whole rifle cerakoted after reassembly.

My smith doesn't charge much at all, so for me, it's cheaper to get it all done than just the price of a new blank... So, we'll leave it at that. Haha But most folks will charge a fair bit for all that work. But it will make a factory barrel shoot nearly (and in some cases, just as good as) a top-tier aftermarket barrel, because at that point, you have done most of what is done to those aftermarket barrels that is NOT done to a factory barrel on a mass-produced rifle.

Those custom touches are what makes an aftermarket barrel higher-quality than most factory barrels. And a chunk of steel is a chunk of steel, and if the same processes are done to each, it should narrow the gap of performance significantly. Which has been my experience working-over factory Remington barrels and accurizing them.

Some folks will still be snobby about it and say, "It's still a shitty factory Remington barrel..." which, once fully worked-over, is NOT the truth. But it is what it is. The proof is in my groups. And that's all that matters to me.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

An old saying "If it's not broke, don't fix it"....

 

[shlouf]

Which version do you have? If yours has the plastic stock I'd definitely change that out first.
I just picked one up off gunbroker for a steal. The older one, non-stainless version, in a factory tan HS precision stock.

 

[Steel head]

Just put it in a chassis or stock if you want. Don’t need to true it at all, if you want a new barrel just remage it yourself.

 

[HNemes]

Which version do you have? If yours has the plastic stock I'd definitely change that out first.
I just picked one up off gunbroker for a steal. The older one, non-stainless version, in a factory tan HS precision stock.

 

[tylerw02]

Having been down the road before, I'd say put it in a non-flimsy stock, if baseline accuracy is below a minute after that, shoot it until the barrel is toast. No reason to pull it off just to work things over. Spend your money shooting rather than upgrading what isn't broken.

 

[308pirate]

My smith doesn't charge much at all, so for me, it's cheaper to get it all done than just the price of a new blank... So, we'll leave it at that. Haha But most folks will charge a fair bit for all that work. But it will make a factory barrel shoot nearly (and in some cases, just as good as) a top-tier aftermarket barrel, because at that point, you have done most of what is done to those aftermarket barrels that is NOT done to a factory barrel on a mass-produced rifle.

Those custom touches are what makes an aftermarket barrel higher-quality than most factory barrels. And a chunk of steel is a chunk of steel, and if the same processes are done to each, it should narrow the gap of performance significantly. Which has been my experience working-over factory Remington barrels and accurizing them.

The one thing that most high quality aftermarket barrels have that OEM barrels usually don't is a higher level of care when it comes to heat treating in general and stress relieving in particular.

People tend to focus on the machining aspect and forget about the other things that matter.

 

[spife7980]

View attachment 7721436

Whats it chambered in?

I see that model is currently offered in 223, 22-250 and 220 swift all of which have a 12 or 14 twist barrel. That twist is going to be your limiting factor. Youll want a new barrel thats more like a 7 twist to drive heavier bullets to really get it to 1k yards which can be had for 600 bucks for all parts and tools to do the remage yourself. But the action is fine as is.

Other than that Id say a reliable scope that has turrets to dial your elevation instead of holding over with a hunting scope.

 

[FuhQ]

The one thing that most high quality aftermarket barrels have that OEM barrels usually don't is a higher level of care when it comes to heat treating in general and stress relieving in particular.

People tend to focus on the machining aspect and forget about the other things that matter.

I understand that, I spent 20 years doing custom metal fabrication and welding. I know metallurgy and heat treating processes. And you're 100% correct. That being said, IF it was a decently produced factory barrel, it can be made to shoot very well, just like an aftermarket barrel blank.

 

[shlouf]

Whats it chambered in?

I see that model is currently offered in 223, 22-250 and 220 swift all of which have a 12 or 14 twist barrel. That twist is going to be your limiting factor. Youll want a new barrel thats more like a 7 twist to drive heavier bullets to really get it to 1k yards which can be had for 600 bucks for all parts and tools to do the remage yourself. But the action is fine as is.

Other than that Id say a reliable scope that has turrets to dial your elevation instead of holding over with a hunting scope.

they made them in 308 too. I'm assuming that's what OP has

 

[HNemes]

Whats it chambered in?

I see that model is currently offered in 223, 22-250 and 220 swift all of which have a 12 or 14 twist barrel. That twist is going to be your limiting factor. Youll want a new barrel thats more like a 7 twist to drive heavier bullets to really get it to 1k yards which can be had for 600 bucks for all parts and tools to do the remage yourself. But the action is fine as is.

Other than that Id say a reliable scope that has turrets to dial your elevation instead of holding over with a hunting scope.

.308

 

[moosemeat]

Put in what ever chassis you want first if you want it in a chassis. See if it shoots. Then you can still have it rebarreled if needed but haven't thrown away a shooter barrel that wasnt performing cause it was in a junk stock.

 

[spife7980]

.308

Ok, so that’s a 12 twist but in 308 you can get to 1k with the 175 fgmm easy.
Scope w/adjustments, then trigger, then stock would be my order of upgrades.

 

[HNemes]

Ok, so that’s a 12 twist but in 308 you can get to 1k with the 175 fgmm easy.
Scope w/adjustments, then trigger, then stock would be my order of upgrades.

I have a decent zeiss on it now, not sure if 14 power is enough for 1k though.

 

[spife7980]

I have a decent zeiss on it now, not sure if 14 power is enough for 1k though.

It’s a good scope and 14 is enough, it’s just not set up for dialing long distance effectively.

 

[HNemes]

It’s a good scope and 14 is enough, it’s just not set up for dialing long distance effectively.

Gotcha I’ll for sure upgrade in the future.

 

[Lionsbreath]

Untrued Remage job, compliments of Northland Shooters Supply

 

[gopherslayer]

I bought a SPS Varmint in 308 back in 2007. Tossed it in a B&C stock with CDI BM. It is one hell of a shooter. All I had done was a chop to 20”. It has a throat like Linda Lovelace.

Only pic I have of it

 

[308pirate]

Ok, so that’s a 12 twist but in 308 you can get to 1k with the 175 fgmm easy.
Scope w/adjustments, then trigger, then stock would be my order of upgrades.

My 12 twist Howa has no problem stabilizing Hornady 178 ELDM to 1100 yds.

 

[308pirate]

I have a decent zeiss on it now, not sure if 14 power is enough for 1k though.

Unless you're shooting tiny ass targets, it is. Plenty for targets 12x12 and larger.

 

[CavReconScout]

This started out as a Bass Pro Special Rem 700 Varmint with the flimsy stock. Got it on close out for ridiculous cheap. Dropped it into an MPA:

shot pretty well with the factory barrel after it was trued:

But like most projects it got a little out of hand. As it sits now:

I have shot it out to 1100yds, going to 1200 next weekend.

 

[FuhQ]

My Gen1 Rem 700 5R Milspec .308 has an 11.25 twist barrel, and it's done just fine with everything 168, all the way up to Berger 215 Hybrids.

My custom .30-06 AI 40º has a 1:12 26" barrel, and it's done great with Berger 185 VLD's. I haven't tried anything heavier in it.

 

[HNemes]

This started out as a Bass Pro Special Rem 700 Varmint with the flimsy stock. Got it on close out for ridiculous cheap. Dropped it into an MPA:
View attachment 7722125
shot pretty well with the factory barrel after it was trued:
View attachment 7722126
But like most projects it got a little out of hand. As it sits now:
View attachment 7722129
I have shot it out to 1100yds, going to 1200 next weekend.

That’s awesome what’s it chambered in?

 

[HNemes]

Well a chassis seems to be out of my budget unless I find a used one, any stocks y’all recommend?

 

[tylerw02]

Look for a used H-S Precision on message boards. Take-offs go for about $250.

 

[CavReconScout]

That’s awesome what’s it chambered in?

6.5 Creedmoor. You can get a KRG Bravo for $349, less with a coupon or Black Friday sale. An Oryx is about $399 I think.

 

[Forrest]

You can get a really accurate remage barrel and save all the gunsmith labor $. I have tried factory barrels at that distance and always ended up changing barrels to get the accuracy I needed.

 

[308pirate]

Well a chassis seems to be out of my budget unless I find a used one, any stocks y’all recommend?

A KRG Bravo is a better value than any conventional stock ever will.

You literally bolt the rifle to it and go. There isn't a single stock that can match both the price AND its list of standard features.