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Gunsmithing Savage is apart, what else should I tackle?

marvthehamster

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 24, 2013
51
18
I’ve got my model 10 torn down for a barrel change (kind of). I’m chopping the factory barrel to 16” and reinstalling. I’ve got headspace gauges, new slotted nut, and barrel wrenches on the way. I removed the factory nut via pipe wrench. Honestly didn’t tear it up that bad and I’d reinstall it the same way if I didn’t already have new parts ordered. I’m not picky about what things look like, though. Anyway...

Suggestions on things to do while I’ve got it apart? It’s a good shooter already so no glaring problems to address. Just wondering what others have done to tune up a factory savage action/bolt?
 
Target spring if it’s a regular accu trigger.
Are you changing the recoil lug?
Clean the raceways thoroughly and spray with Hornandy gun cleaner/lube.
That stuff works.
 
Ground lug...(Northland Shooters Supply is one source) or wherever you sourced the nut...
Assuming your replacement nut was an aftermarket squared/trued replacement.
 
Target spring if it’s a regular accu trigger.
Are you changing the recoil lug?
Clean the raceways thoroughly and spray with Hornandy gun cleaner/lube.
That stuff works.
Not really interested in messing with the trigger. I like the stock trigger fine. Not changing lug right now since I’m still using the stock barrel. Good call on raceways, thinking of some lapping compound for a few spots to smooth things out.
 
Ground lug...(Northland Shooters Supply is one source) or wherever you sourced the nut...
Assuming your replacement nut was an aftermarket squared/trued replacement.
I’ll prob get the NSS luv and nut once I put a nice barrel on. Sticking with stock for now. The replacement nut is just a stock slotted one.
 
Just to be clear, you have the cocking indicator *in* the bolt, or the top bolt release acting as the cocking indicator? The latter is fine.
I’ve got the bolt with the silver pin in the rear to indicate firing pin position, bottom bolt release model. Pin is silver, it’s inside the rear of the bolt. Pin has to be dropped to get the Allen key in there to disassemble the bolt. That’s what he’s talking about, correct?
 
I’ve got the bolt with the silver pin in the rear to indicate firing pin position, bottom bolt release model. Pin is silver, it’s inside the rear of the bolt. Pin has to be dropped to get the Allen key in there to disassemble the bolt. That’s what he’s talking about, correct?

Correct, that’s sadly incompatible with any lift-smoothing widget I’m aware of.
 
Correct, that’s sadly incompatible with any lift-smoothing widget I’m aware of.
Bummer. That’s ok though. I’m really very happy with the performance of this gun overall for the price. I run a 178 Amax/4064 load that shoots better than I can most days. I’m excited to shorten it up a bit. I’ve got it sitting in an xlr element and once I’ve got the folder on there it should make for a pretty portable package!
 
Thats stupid.

Savages shoot very well.

Wouldnt trust my life or a big trophy hunt to one and to say a Rem is so much better is silly.

I would go head to head with you with a new savage vs a new rem.
Scope and mount of your choice. No adjustments allowed to rifle.
100 rounds. 100 yds. 1 target.

Lemme know.

Pecker out. Tape measure at the ready.
 
I’d take you on but I’m not sure I have a Remington that is 100% factory. Let me check my gun gun vaults. I have part of a tikka. Are you sure with your pecker out you have enough to measure a savage group just asking not judging.
 
I figured to measure both. Whats the fun in not?
Exactly. Why recomend a remington if you dont even have one in factory?

A fat hooker can lose weight, get antibiotics for STI, and a makeover and look ok.
Only a nasty Colfax hooker if still there and workin.

My pecker will measure the width of a. .45 ACP hole pretty well. If it isnt cold out.....

I have factory savage. 2 in fact.
Old rifles from my early days.

100 rds of factory ammo should be my other absolute. No doctored handloads loaded to 3.1” for a rem chamber....?
I will shoot FGMM.
 
Oh sweet! A savage vs Remington pissing match in my thread!!! :D

I figured someone would be along before too long suggesting I sell it and get a Remington. No worries. I actually had some regret about the savage for a little while due to the lack of aftermarket support but that’s not so bad nowadays. It’s always shot very well for me and I like it. I occasion go head to head with a friend and his GAP and it’s usually not our rifles that determine the better shooter of the day.

Now we just need someone to come shit on 308 and tell me to get a 6.5.....
 
I don’t shoot factory ammo and I didn’t say I didn’t have one in factory configuration I just said I would I have to look. I don’t know what the hell is in my gun safe or safes. I do shoot one in 223 for my PRS trainer I know. But hell if it comes down to it I’ll just go out and by one that’s pretty fair is it. I just know savage has let me down since I was 14 and bought my first deer rifle with with my own money and the damn screws kept coming loose on it. I more recently have bought my son a savage single 22 for 4-h that was well taken care off that rusted to hell. I bought one of savages high end 22s with the black wooden stock for trainer. That rifle would not group 2” at 50 yards with any ammo I even tried my Nightforce 5.5x22. Sent it back to savage they sent it back I sold and got a CZ.