Stock bedding question, hopefully I'm in the correct forum.

[apf383]

I'm new to the bolt action platform and have a quick question concerning bedding a stock for my Rem 700 AAC-SD. A friend of mine has stock that was originally bedded for the Surgeon action, but said it's easy to re-bed for my S/A Rem. I don't recall of it's a McMillan or Manners, but I'm almost certain it's one of those. Is this true, and how involved is it? I don't mind doing the work, but don't want to waste money/time doing this when I'd be better off just buying the "correct" model for my action. Thanks, from the newbie.

 

[thrusty]

You can spend a couple hours with a Dremel or sand paper removing the bedding...and then re-bed it. So, it's possible to do if you're wondering. If you're a newbie......I'd send the stock and barreled action off to have it professionally done and you won't regret it...

 

[apf383]

Thanks for the quick reply thrusty, so if I can get it for a good number, then I will go forward knowing that I have a further investment having the work done. I just dont want to got to the point where I would have been better off just buying the proper stock. Thanks.

 

[thrusty]

If you get the stock for a good price then it's worth it... Check out Short Action Customs for a great bed job...Mark will take care of you - I know first hand. GAP, Long Rifles and other Hide recommended smiths...all reputable too.
Epoxy & Pillar Bed Stock | Short Action Customs

 

[apf383]

Thanks for the link. I'm a pretty handy guy, and have been working on firearms and automobies my whole life, so I'm pretty mechanically inclined. We will see.

 

[Xtremegunnr]

It is not too bad. Takes one as practice to figure out what NOT to do. Use the grey marine tex. DO NOT USE REGULAR ACRA GLASS. Ask me how i know.....yeah i did it. Plow some material out with the dremal all around. Do not take any right at the bottom of the action..or atleast in spots. You dont want to have the action sink. Take some out around the recoil lug....dril some holes all over...use plenty of release agent or shoe polish.....tape front and sides of recoil lug...plug holes with modeling clay...watch a few videos....ask more questions. Make it a good 1/32 or 1/16 thick

 

[roggom]

I have sent you a pm

 

[Scimitar]

Also depends on which Surgeon action. If its the round surgeon 700 clone and you can get it about 250 bucks cheaper, fine. Otherwise, buy a new one.

 

[JelloStorm]

I use Devcon and shoe polish to do my rifles. Just did a .17HMR with JB Weld and shoe polish as the release agent and came out great.

+1 on throwing Acraglass right in the trash.

 

[Harvey]

It is not too bad. Takes one as practice to figure out what NOT to do. Use the grey marine tex. DO NOT USE REGULAR ACRA GLASS. Ask me how i know.....yeah i did it. Plow some material out with the dremal all around. Do not take any right at the bottom of the action..or atleast in spots. You dont want to have the action sink. Take some out around the recoil lug....dril some holes all over...use plenty of release agent or shoe polish.....tape front and sides of recoil lug...plug holes with modeling clay...watch a few videos....ask more questions. Make it a good 1/32 or 1/16 thick

Good description, great advice for the Dremel Tool gunsmith. The first time can be a little intimidating.

I've also had great outcomes with ProBed 2000, an epoxy bedding compound that comes in a couple different colors; black for synthetic, brown for wood, green for camo.

But yes, remove enough old bedding material to allow for a generous application of new bedding compound; more is better, particularly behind the recoil lug (use at least one layer of masking tape on sides and front). WD30 is great for clean up. But be sure to maintain the old reference points around mounting screws as instructed by Xtremegunnr! Be sure to coat mounting screws and screw holes with release agent.

And allocate enough time to do the job right. If necessary, a rubber mallet will help coax the action from the stock after curing. Assuming everything was blocked out properly with waxy modeling clay, difficulty getting the barrel/action to break free means you've done a good job.

Save some un-mixed compound for touch up and to permanently set your scope mounts later on.

If you don't mind me asking, how far up the barrel are you bedding? I like to bed the action, but also up the barrel roughly the length of the cartridge, leaving the length the barrel free-floating.

The key to a precision rifle is repeatable vibration and harmonics, shot after shot. And a properly bedded action is it.

 

[apf383]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I wound up passing on the McMillan becuase I didn't feel capable to un-do what the guy before me did, then make it fit my needs. I bought a B&C A5. After getting that out on the range, and establishing a baseline, I may go ahead and bed it. Harvey, as far as I've read, I should probably just go as far up the barrel as the taper, maybe a little beyond. Again, first timer here. Also, I thought I would pick up a set of the Accu-risers from Ernie for like 12.00 and bed them in as well. Any thoughts.

 

[Harvey]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I wound up passing on the McMillan becuase I didn't feel capable to un-do what the guy before me did, then make it fit my needs. I bought a B&C A5. After getting that out on the range, and establishing a baseline, I may go ahead and bed it. Harvey, as far as I've read, I should probably just go as far up the barrel as the taper, maybe a little beyond. Again, first timer here. Also, I thought I would pick up a set of the Accu-risers from Ernie for like 12.00 and bed them in as well. Any thoughts.

Above all, you want to present repeatable support to the barrel, which means avoiding any influence to the barrel by the forend, bipod, etc. So it's really not desirable that you bed beyond the recoil lug. But if you do for some reason, no further than the taper (length of the cartridge).

Absolutely, Accu-risers will help establish the perfect elevation to set the action in the bedding compound. Idiot proofing.

Bedding the scope mount is getting a bit anal, but can be worth the effort, particularly on a rounded action like the top of the Rem 700. But on an action with a flat top? Not so much.

Again, repeatable vibrations and harmonics, shot after shot.

 

[apf383]

Thanks Harvey. What's you guys opinion on using the original action screws to secure the action in the stock while the bedding material is setting up? I don't understand the purpose of using extra long screws and cutting off the heads as I've read some guys do.

 

[knockemdown]

The extra long headless screws will allow the action to maintain the proper orientation with the bottom metal. The longer, headless action screws will protrude right down thru the bottom metal screw openings, which helps to center the action in the stock. Some add masking tape to these screws to keep the tolerances tight...
You don't use these screws to 'tighten' them, just to keep that orientation true. That way, when your bedding job is complete, you will not be introducing any lateral stress when torquing down the real action screws against the bedding material/pillars...

 

[apf383]

Thanks knockemdown. I get all of that with the exception of cutting off the heads? I just don't see a practical reason to do it, clearly I am missing something. I guess the screws go in the action first, and then the action is guided down into the stock and through the bottom metal. Then the whole shebang taped up, or surge tubed until cured.

 

[Aimsmall55]

Thanks knockemdown. I get all of that with the exception of cutting off the heads? I just don't see a practical reason to do it, clearly I am missing something. I guess the screws go in the action first, and then the action is guided down into the stock and through the bottom metal. Then the whole shebang taped up, or surge tubed until cured.

You have to put headless action screws in before you bed to keep the epoxy out of the pillars and stock and also to slide the barreled action into the epoxied stock itself in order to mildly torque the action into the epoxy. Can't do that with "screws with heads" because a " a square wont fit threw a circle"

 

[apf383]

Thanks Aimsmall55