Just got around to zeroing c35 today. Bought from another hide member. So I have a problem getting the c35 to keep the adjustments made in thermal. It will move day scopes reticle in the screen, w&e numders moves in the screen on thermal. Press menu button to save adjustments,goes to cancel/confirm screen, select confirm, press menu button and it returns to the A B C screen. Ok think it saved adjustments, fire at same target, shots place in previous groups, no adjustment. Go back in the c35 menu,check for saved adjustment sets and it shows the original settings before I moved to new settings. Tried this 3 different times and the settings are always back to same previous settings. Any thoughts? Would taking it back to factory reset fix this? Or am I missing a set in zeroing this thermal. I have several Pulsar thermals that I have setup one scope for several different rifles without issue. Any help welcomed.
Edit: I found that if I turned the unit off, then made the adjustment needed, it seemed to save the adjustment.
I have the S35 . My unit did the exact same thing. Trying to fine tune an adjustment, and it just refuses to save certain coordinates. I also had some other issues with the optic which led me to send it in. I was missing WAY more shots on critters than I should have been. Some of which should have been no brainer slam dunk shots. So after an outing and a few misses or poor hits I’d check my zero, and lo and behold it would be off a little bit, but sometimes it’d be dead on. So I got to the point where I’d zero the optic the night of a hunt, but I’d still have misses. One morning I was so pissed I removed the optic, triple checked everything on the rifle and optic for anything loose to cause the problems. I then mounted it on my 17 hmr and burned up about 350 rounds at 50 yards keeping detailed notes about each group. The magnification, impacts, coordinates of zero etc. I was able to shoot 1/4-3/8” 3 shot groups so the data was good. Doing all this I learned:
1. The PIP reticle and main screen reticle did not match up, AT native “1X” there was about 1.25” at 50 yards discrepancy.
2. The PIP did align perfectly with main reticle at “1.1x” and above,
3. It was a waste of time trying to use the zoom feature in the zeroing setting. If you chose anything other than the native magnification it would go stupid. This is where most of my ammo went. I couldn’t come up with any way to make it make sense. I ended up just zeroing it such as a typical rifle scope. Shoot a group, adjust it, shoot another group, adjust again, etc until it was perfect.
4. If I turned the unit off, then back on I would lose zero, SOMETIMES. This is where it got so frustrating and the lightbulb went off in my head as to why I was always missing. The unit always stayed “true” as in not wondering around while shooting. I was always able to stack a tight group throughout each session. But if I turned it off and back on, the new group would be as much as 2-3” away from the last group. I did this about 15-20 times. Turning it off and back on, firing 3 shot groups at same POA each time. By the end of that I had 6 (I think) very distinct POI’s. At 50 yards there was a nearly 6” grouping containing 6—1/2” groups of 8-10 shots per group.
Now if you consider I did this at only 50 yards in perfect atmospheric conditions, that equates to over 12” at 100 yards. Easily causing misses and terrible shots on coyotes and coons. Then add in a few shots taken at 2-250 yards and there’s almost no way to be able to make those shots.
I sent the unit in, and I was shipped a brand new (I think) unit. I mounted it to a 10/22 and repeated the same tests as above, I was satisfied, mounted it up to my .17 and has satisfactory results, mounted it up to .223 bolt gun, and was making first round impacts at 300 yards on 6” steel. Turning unit off between shots. I’m happy with the unit now and hopefully I cannot blame it for any misses in the futre.