A couple days ago there was a meme with a black girl sitting next to a sign in her credit union saying they wouldn’t be getting any new 2023 money. Honestly I was a little skeptical of this but I just went to my bank and asked about it as I was going to get five new $100 bills for my grandchildren and the woman behind the counter told me that they received an email from their headquarters Bank of America that they would be receiving any 2023 money this year that there was too much money in circulation and so there would be no 2023 Bills, these are her words not mine . Make of this what you will…..

New into long-range shooting and purchased the Newer heavy barrel Tikka Super Varmint in 300 Win Mag, wondering how important it is to change the stock to a chassis?

I'll probably get bashed for this, but it's an honest question. I bought a new NF scope and I'm looking at mounts and I'm wondering what is the difference between say a $100 Leupold mount and a $400 NF or Spuhr mount? Is it really going to make a difference in my accuracy? I e never spent more than about $150 on rings or a mount because I don't see why. I look at it like a lower on an AR, as long as it's in spec it's fine.

Am I wrong? Will a more expensive mount do a better job of holding my scope?

ETA: this is going on a .223 AR SPR type rifle, so no 300 win mag recoil or anything

I'm wanting to get a shorty .308 hunting rifle. These are some of the MUST have specs: 1) 20" or less barrel threaded barrel, preferably 18" and must be threaded because I plan to run a can. 2) 6.5lbs or less bare rifle. 3) 308 Win 4) Cost about $1500
I had my heart set on a Tikka T3X lite and having the barrel cut to 18" and be done. Tikkas just shoot. I've never seen one that doesn't. I called LRI and they advise against cutting and threading 30 cal pencil barrels. I know people do it but I trust LRI when they tell me they have seen problems. I also considered buy a Tikka action, buying a CarbonSix 18" barrel and figuring out a stock/chassis. Problem with that is that by the time I'm done I would be close to $2500. Kimber makes an ultralight with an 18" threaded barrel. Browning has an x-bolt speed with an 18" barrel. Savage makes an ultralight but it has a 22" barrel. What else is out there and what has been your experience with them.

Howdy.

I’m looking for an older style McMillan Bros Tac50 action or complete rifle with the 9.3” spacing. Serious buyer. Please let me know what you have. Thanks!

Best,
C

I recently bought a Tikka T3x in 223 and it shoots lights out. We shot some 88 gr ELD's out to 1,300 yards and went 3/5 and basically hit everything inside that with little effort. Tip, if your shooting longer bullets and want to use their single feed bobsled (Mountain Tactical), it works like a champ. But I digress:

I was considering buying the OEM bottom metal to have bottom metal not plastic. As well as upgrading the handle and bolt. Anyone done this and do you have an opinion. I think its "the nice but not necessary" category but with that understood, thoughts?

Merry Christmas Fellas!

PB

My rifle build is
Coming along. I have a SA defiance tenacity (retailer said it was BDL version but also accept aics mags)
I plan on putting it in a KRG Bravo chassis. Getting mixed reviews on google about whether or not I need an aics magazine with a restrictor plate? Or without restrictor plate? Anybody dealt with this before?
It’s a standard bolt face and will be using 308/6.5cm magazines

Atlas V8 with RRS Arca/Pic Clamp. Includes Hawk Hill Talons and stock Rubber feet. Also has the DEFY cant lock lever. I have over $400 in this one. it's pretty dang clean. $350 shipped to CONUS.

I have two SS fixed power scopes (10x and 12x), both in mils. The turrets on the 10x are remarkable. I absolutely love them. The turrets on the 12x are bad.…nearly 0 tactile feel (yes the screws are right). There is some audible, but when I have ear protection on I cannot tell when or what I’m adjusting. I used to have a 16x and the turrets were the same as this. It was actually replaced by SWFA for the 12x.

Reached out to SWFA and was told the mechanics for all of the fixed-powers are the same and the design has not changed. How in the world can one of them be so solid the this other one so bad? They told me something about grease getting into the mechanics and I should move the turrets around a bunch to disperse it. I’ve been using this scope for over a year tho. Any advice??

Just picked this up on here but caught a bug to build a 22lr upper so priced for a quick sale. Anyway, includes everything it came with (box, sunshade, ect). EBR-2D reticle.
Rings and level not included. $590 shipped. Venmo or PayPal (F&F or add the fees).

I was curious about how much further you can accurately shoot after a bullet goes subsonic?

Selling a GA precision built 6.5 Creedmoor
Badger Bolt Knob
Badger M5 Bottom metal
Trigger Tech Trigger
8/40 Scope Holes
Gap Bolt
Rem 700 Action
Bartlein 26" GAP#6 Contour 1/8 Twist
Threaded 5/8x24
APA Little Bastard Brake
Manners MCS-T2A Gap Camo, Adjustable Cheek
Badger 20 MOA Base
OD Green Cerakote

Rifle is just sitting in the safe not being used, time to let it go, round count is like 17-20 rounds. Test fired a load and then it's been in safe ever since.
Asking $2900

Alright so I’ve got two different guns that I’m looking to put ASR brakes on for my suppressors. The guns are my MCX virtus rifle in 5.56 and my 9mm SP5k. I want to be able to remove the muzzle brake relatively easily later on and am concerned with having to use water (especially on my SP5k with all steel construction and parts I don’t feel I can easily get to such as charging tube) to have to remove the brakes. My question is it better to use rocksett and and less torque so I can remove it later by only wrenching it off or loctite and heat the brake to remove it later. Any help is appreciated! Thanks

2 bricks Federal 210 large rifle primers. 2 sleeves missing so 1,800 total primers. $200 shipped

230ct. Berger 6.5mm 156gr EOLs 2 sealed boxes and an opened box with 30ct remaining. $150 shipped

8lb jug Hodgdon H1000 still factory sealed. Manufactured 2022. $400 shipped

“I’ll take it” posted here trumps PMs. PP F&F.

Sal 504-813-2904

I was told by the company that drilled my well and set my pressure tank to leave my furthest outside faucet running, not dripping, running at a constant stream during the upcoming freezing temps. And leave indoor faucets running at a trickle. I was all set to do that at noon tomorrow.

Now I'm getting the completely opposite advise on my local news.

They're saying, "Don’t drip your outside faucets. Your hose spigots need to be covered and turned off to protect against the pipe from bursting."

So, which is it?.

The last major freezes in 2011 and 2021 I didn't leave the faucets dripping, just covered, and the PVC pipes froze at the pressure tank and broke.

I received an email from the ATF today saying my efiled Form 4 was approved with an attachment showing the stamp. Does this mean I can go get it or do they still mail a paper copy to the dealer?

Waller, TX police department is randomly pulling people over to give them gift cards to thank them for being members of the community or so they say. Seems like a good way to illegally stop and search. I’m thinking about driving to Waller in hopes to get pulled over to sue their ass. Has to be worth 50k.

Post updates here.

In other news,

Georgia Supreme Court Reverses 'Lack Of Standing' In 2020 Election Case;​

So, there's that.

Hey gang,
You can skip the next paragraph (background story) and go straight to the bullet points if you like.

I'm sure this has been best to death. I tried YouTube and there's so many questionable reviews it's hard to trust anything. Here's the situation I'm fleeing NY for my life this year. I bought 113 acres in Arkansas with a little house for my wife and I. We're pretty remote as the house is a half mile from the road and surrounded by woods. I have a pump shotgun and will get a 9mm pistol for close quarters home and personal defense. For more midrange property protection and shtf stuff I'm getting a 223 wylde 16" AR. I bought a red dot for it but can't use it because of astigmatism. That's ok because I'd like like some magnification for target identification anyway. I'm looking for a 1-4 or 1-6 LPVO. I don't need much magnification because most of the property is heavily wooded. Only the driveway and a couple paths have maybe upto 100 yds of narrow sight line. There's one power line clearing that 400 yards but probably 85% of the property is so wooded really you can't shoot more than 25 yards most of the time. I obviously don't need a high dollar, high magnification LPVO with 1000 yd clarity.

I'm looking for a LPVO with these charteristics for under $500
1 Reliable brand with a known good warranty
2 1-4x or 1-6x
3 Simple illuminated reticle that doesn't need to be daylight bright or have ranging.
4 As clear and bright glass as I can get for the dollar.


Preferred but not required
1 Low profile capped turrets as to not block vision
2 Cross bars in reticle to guide my eye to the center for quick acquisition.
3 Black color


I'm considering a Burris RT6. If you have any suggestions regarding scope or weapon choices please let me know.

Thanks all and have a Merry Christmas
Ron

I have been looking and even asking the manufacturers which not one has gotten back to me.
Is using a ultrasonic cleaner with specific Carbon cleaner the best way, or a suitable way for cleaning the suppressors?

I have a Zermatt Origin SA (20 moa rail) with a Criterion pre-fit barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor, Hawkins 34mm medium rings, Area 419 hellfire brake and a Triggertech primary flat trigger. Barrel and action have 280 rounds of match factory ammo through them. Action, barrel nut and barrel (26" MTU) are all from Northland Shooters Supply. Barrel was properly headspaced with go & no-go gages and then torqued to Northland's spec using their 4" wrench. Asking $1300 shipped from my FFL to yours. If you want to do PayPal you cover the fee, otherwise Zelle or PayPal F&F is fine. I have purchased other things from the Hide but it is my first time selling so if I'm missing something or you have any other questions let me know.

I've cleaned and reorganized my reloading room. I've loaded sufficient cartridges for working tests and next steps in load development. I've accumulated some needed tools (AMP Press), powder (H1000 and Retumbo), primers, and bullets. I've prepped all of my fired brass. I've even cleaned every rifle and coated the inside barrels with light oil. Short of doing goofy stuff like "sorting bullets", or other semi-meaningless activities ... does anybody have any good ideas about productive and useful reloading activities I could engage in while waiting for the freezing cold temperatures and snow to stop? Maybe I should just learn how to "hibernate".