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Night Vision The Official: Steiner C35 Thermal Clip-on Review and User Thread!

After reading this thread about 87 times, I ordered a C35 tonight. I really don't need it, as I have a Super Hogster right now, but 640 core at that price point is too tempting. Thanks everyone for sharing all the intel here. DRT, can you make sure it gets to me before my wife gets home from her business trip??? Thank would save me a ton of grief.
Me too. I had a thermal clip-on on my list for year-end bonus and decided to just borrow from myself and get it early
(I did run it by the wife first to avoid that ton of grief :) )
 
Me too. I had a thermal clip-on on my list for year-end bonus and decided to just borrow from myself and get it early
(I did run it by the wife first to avoid that ton of grief :) )
First rule of fight club
shush1.jpg


What mama doesn't know;);)
 
Anyone know where to get ocular mounts for the C35? I saw they were using them on YouTube in some of Steiners videos. Thanks.
 
How about has anyone tested it with the krg bravo enclosed forend? Would like to use on my bolt gun instead my ARs?
 
Appreciate the reply but this is something like I was referring to, mounts directly to your scopes objective. https://nightvisionguys.com/adaptor-for-thermal-and-nv-clip-on-attachments-be80958
At the risk of sounding like a complete noob when it comes to thermal (which I am), it is my understanding that when you have a rail mount thermal clip-on you do not need the thermal ocular to scope objective adapter, that is only needed when your thermal has no base mount. @SkyScrapin correct me if I’m wrong.
 
At the risk of sounding like a complete noob when it comes to thermal (which I am), it is my understanding that when you have a rail mount thermal clip-on you do not need the thermal ocular to scope objective adapter, that is only needed when your thermal has no base mount. @SkyScrapin correct me if I’m wrong.
Only if you have a stock that has a bridge. Doesn't really work for typical hunting stocks.
 
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Only if you have a stock that has a bridge. Doesn't really work for typical hunting stocks.
Well that’s a very good point. I know Burris makes those adapters for the sister version of this thermal, has anyone checked to see if those work with Steiner. Also Steiner C35 is a heavy beast, any issues with putting that much weight on the end of the objective and subjecting it to recoil? Not for the thermal but to the host day scope it is mounted to.
 
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Got to play with mine a bit tonight, and compare it to my Super Hogster. These are my only two thermals. I didn't feel like the C35 was any better looking than the 384 core Super Hogster. Maybe my expectations were too high? I figured I would see a big difference between the two. Also, it could just be the nature of a clip on vs dedicated scope. I played with the settings a bit, which helped. I set my contrast at 70% and the brightness at like 40%. I had it in front of a Swampfox Arrowhead 1-6x. I tried it in front of my PST II 5-25x, but it was way too much base magnification. And I don't feel like the Arrowhead has terrible glass. Hopefully I can play more this weekend. The C35 100% needs a focus throw lever!!!
 
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For those of you considering the objective mounts...

I'd vote just don't do it given my past experience with objective mounts from other companies & the weight of this thing...
You also need to to push down on buttons & twist on thermal for focus

Leverage is a powerful force

Maybe your accuracy requirements will allow for the flex though so take this with a grain of salt
 
For those of you considering the objective mounts...

I'd vote just don't do it given my past experience with objective mounts from other companies & the weight of this thing...
You also need to to push down on buttons & twist on thermal for focus

Leverage is a powerful force

Maybe your accuracy requirements will allow for the flex though so take this with a grain of salt
That is a very good point i haven’t considered. If I were to go this route sounds like a bridge/enclosed forend would be the better way to do for use on my bolt actions. Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
 
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...sounds like a bridge/enclosed forend would be the better way...
Finding a way to rail mount my previous unit is how I "fixed" my accuracy issues.
Don't get me wrong maybe Burris/ steiner have figured it all out and know how to beat the issues... but physics just seems to favor this being a loosing proposition

I will also say watch for loose screws on the mount with the C35. I noticed others mention it already so I don't think its an isolated event
 
I've taken my C35 to the range a couple times now and I've noticed occasionally the image washed out immediately after a shot. This is a problem because I cannot spot my impact when the image washes..... I run a calibration on the optic and the image returns.

Are any of you seeing the same kind of washout? Is this an issue that I need to run by steiner?

Here is a video clip I pulled out of content I'm filming for my review video last night. Target is a 2/3 IPSC at 615 yds. Video is only accessible through this link:

Youtube video
 
I've taken my C35 to the range a couple times now and I've noticed occasionally the image washed out immediately after a shot. This is a problem because I cannot spot my impact when the image washes..... I run a calibration on the optic and the image returns.

Are any of you seeing the same kind of washout? Is this an issue that I need to run by steiner?

Here is a video clip I pulled out of content I'm filming for my review video last night. Target is a 2/3 IPSC at 615 yds. Video is only accessible through this link:

Youtube video
I've shot with mine on six hosts including a piston gun and a 6.5 Creedmoor gas gun with some pretty rowdy vibration, fortunately no such experience.
 
I've shot with mine on six hosts including a piston gun and a 6.5 Creedmoor gas gun with some pretty rowdy vibration, fortunately no such experience.
Good to know..... this was on a .308 AR so nothing crazy. Might run this by Steiner for their thoughts, it's rather annoying.
 
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I've taken my C35 to the range a couple times now and I've noticed occasionally the image washed out immediately after a shot. This is a problem because I cannot spot my impact when the image washes..... I run a calibration on the optic and the image returns.

Are any of you seeing the same kind of washout? Is this an issue that I need to run by steiner?

Here is a video clip I pulled out of content I'm filming for my review video last night. Target is a 2/3 IPSC at 615 yds. Video is only accessible through this link:

Youtube video

I am not claiming to be an expert, but I am pretty sure this is normal with an AR10 level of recoil with a lot of thermals. I think it even said such in my Reap-ir manual. Watch a lot of other YouTube videos of thermal hunts and you will see the screen sometimes goes black/gets lines/turns white briefly after the shot.
 
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I am not claiming to be an expert, but I am pretty sure this is normal with an AR10 level of recoil with a lot of thermals. I think it even said such in my Reap-ir manual. Watch a lot of other YouTube videos of thermal hunts and you will see the screen sometimes goes black/gets lines/turns white briefly after the shot.
Interesting, for not something I was expecting as normal. I'm going to run it by Steiner to get their thoughts.
 
Kind of explains the "rated for 2x the g-forces of a 338LM bolt gun, but don't use it on anything higher than a 308 semi-auto" thing from earlier in the thread
 
I've taken my C35 to the range a couple times now and I've noticed occasionally the image washed out immediately after a shot. This is a problem because I cannot spot my impact when the image washes..... I run a calibration on the optic and the image returns.

Are any of you seeing the same kind of washout? Is this an issue that I need to run by steiner?

Here is a video clip I pulled out of content I'm filming for my review video last night. Target is a 2/3 IPSC at 615 yds. Video is only accessible through this link:

Youtube video
I dig your channel. Finally some LR NV shooting to watch. I’m curious on your thoughts of NV vs thermal clip on devices if you make a video on that.

I’ve come to the conclusion of NV for clip on and thermal for dedicated scopes. Zooming into a TV screen just seems inefficient even with the top dollar thermals. This is just my thoughts based on scrolling YouTube and watching many videos. First hand experience may say otherwise.
 
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I dig your channel. Finally some LR NV shooting to watch. I’m curious on your thoughts of NV vs thermal clip on devices if you make a video on that.

I’ve come to the conclusion of NV for clip on and thermal for dedicated scopes. Zooming into a TV screen just seems inefficient even with the top dollar thermals. This is just my thoughts based on scrolling YouTube and watching many videos. First hand experience may say otherwise.
I think the quality of thermal clip on plays a big role. People are talking pretty good about that new clip on, I believe the Eotech one but I forget which thread it was
 
I dig your channel. Finally some LR NV shooting to watch. I’m curious on your thoughts of NV vs thermal clip on devices if you make a video on that.

I’ve come to the conclusion of NV for clip on and thermal for dedicated scopes. Zooming into a TV screen just seems inefficient even with the top dollar thermals. This is just my thoughts based on scrolling YouTube and watching many videos. First hand experience may say otherwise.

Thank you sir! I enjoy making the videos..... for sure I'm planning a thermal vs NV long range video. Got to get this washing out situation squared away first, I can't effectively make hits if I can't see impacts in the thermal.

Initial impressions, the steiner works fine for LR shooting. I was making hits on a full size IPSC at 855 yds no problem on 6x-8x magnification. Review video should be published by the end of the week.
 
This may be a dumb question but is there a time of day that works best to zero the thermal. Like maybe dusk? I heard using a piece of foil will help in the zeroing process.
 
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This may be a dumb question but is there a time of day that works best to zero the thermal. Like maybe dusk? I heard using a piece of foil will help in the zeroing process.
I shot on standard e type targets in the middle of the day. Shot some steel in the day as well, sun does a fairly good job of heating stuff up for us here.
 
In case anyone is interested, my C35 is headed back to steiner for replacement. Epic customer service, very impressed so far after speaking with customer service!
What was wrong with it, if you don’t mind me asking
 
Image goes blurry when the round goes off which means I can't spot my impacts at distance. I then have to manually press the calibration button to clear the image up.

Check out the video: Youtube Video
Sorry didn’t put two and two together, but yeah I watched that video. Hope tot is something simple or they send you a new one quick.
 
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Pretty sure I know the answer, but any reason not to use 9900mah batteries?

3.7v, and should get much longer life.