Re: 308 LOADS - for 100 yard best load *DONT BE SCARED
This may be a little long, but here we go.
I shoot a off the shelf 700P in .308 and this is what I have developed for this gun.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">100 to 200 Yd. Load</span></span>
168 Gn. sierra Match King
Seated .166 off rifling (Ogive seating length 2.080)
42.0 Gn. Reloader 15
Lapua Brass Trim 2.005
CCI-200 Primers
On a good day I can chew less than 3/8" hole with 5 rounds at 100 Yds and a little under 1/2" at 200 Yds.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">100 to 1000 Yd. Load</span></span>
175 Gn. Sierra Match King
Seated .158 off rifling (Ogive seating length 2.088)
42.8 Gn. Reloader-15
Lapua Brass Trim 2.005
CCI-200 Primers
This load will hold a 3/8" group at 100 Yds. and a 10" to 12" group at 1000 Yds. If I do my part.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Here is my routine</span></span>
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Brass:</span></span>
Trim to 2.005, champher flash holes inside, champher case neck. Then sort by weight .2 Gn. groups. Shoot only one weight group at a time.
The first firing with new brass I call throw away shots or use them to foul a clean barrel before I start shooting for accuracy. Use the cheapest bullets you can find for this.
Now, neck size the new cases that have been fired, wash in acetone, clean primer pockets, use a jewelers small screw driver to clean around the corner of the primer pocket where the primer anvil seats, measure and trim as necessary to 2.005 <span style="font-weight: bold">Every time</span> , re-champher case necks if trimmed or if burred, Polish inside of case necks with a .38 cal. bronze brush in a low speed drill be careful not to remove metal. Wash in acetone again and let dry over night. (Neck sizing only, eliminates head space and keeps the case to the dimensions of your rifles chamber, they usually will not fit in another .308)
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Priming:</span></span>
Seat primers firmly, should be recessed just below case head. Consistancy is very important. (Use a primer depth gage if you want)
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Bullets:</span></span>
Sort by weight .1 Gn. groups, then sort each group by Ogive to base dimension. (Sinclair Bullet Comparator) Shoot one weight and length group at a time.
If you are going to metplat trim and re-drill the hollow points do it first.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Powder:</span></span>
Triple weigh each charge on two different scales. one balance beam and one digital. After second weighing charge case. Then when finished with all the cases you are loading dump each case one at a time and re-weigh for the third time. Accuracy here is critical in maintaining velocity as consistent as possible. I can usually hold within +/- 15 fps. But there are times it won't as there are other factors at work.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Seating Bullet:</span></span>
Lightly touch bullet in seating die to straighten in case, rotate case 90 degrees then seat 1/4 of the way, rotate again and finish seating. (Measure each round)
I use a bullet comparator to measure my seating length from the Ogive of the bullet. Most bullets can be .003 to .005 difference in length from the Ogive to point, so if you seat by OAL your actual distance from Ogive to rifling can be off that amount.
You will have to determine the exact bolt face to rifling dimension in your gun.
There are many additional things others do reloading but I would rather
be pulling a trigger than sitting at the reloading table. Best of luck