I have the ability to get a new Tikka T3X donor rifle for $600 or a 90's Win Mod 70 push feed donor rifle for $700.
Which one would you get and re-barrel for a custom 7 PRC rifle, and why?

I need some help understanding options for muzzle devices. I currently have a tbac can that uses the cb(actually BA) mount. So a brake, semi permamently attached to the muzzle that the can attaches to. Works great.

I just bought another can that has hub threads. I believe it comes with a hub threaded cap thats made to direct thread to the muzzle. Simple. Problem is Id like to keep some kind of muzzle device on the rifle when the suppressor isnt attached. Thats where I get confused.

So,...what then, would be the purpose of ever using something like a rearden/cherry bomb/ xeno type device? I like the idea of having some sort of muzzle device loktited to the muzzle threads on the rifle in the event that at some point I somehow inadvertanty booger up the threads. But then you have to have another adapter that adapts the muzzle device threads to the HUB threads. I have 3 rifles I plan to use it on and Im thinking of putting one of those (rearden/cherry bomb/xeno) type devices on each of them to swap the suppressor back and forth to. But then Ive got 2 different adapter devices between the muzzle threads themselves and the suppressor..?

Whenever I get back to my pickup after hunting I always take my suppressor off to put the rifle back in the case and currently that leaves the tbac brake on the muzzle of the rifle, but with the new hub suppressor I just bought Im trying to figure out what people use.

Seams indecent to just flash naked muzzle threads around all willy nilly.


Need some advice. Thank you

New take off. Does not come with thread protector but threads will be wrapped very well before shipping.
$650

Purchased by mistake on Black Friday, I had two items in cart and meant to remove this to keep other but in rush to checkout I removed wrong one.

My cost including shipping & tax was $846.63. Including shipping costs to buyer, my selling price on this is $880 THIS IS NOW SOLD shipped to your door with insurance but without signature requirement.

Not looking for trades or any lower offers.

Though this is a "Factory Second", I don't see any obvious blem on it. Looks like factory new, as many of MDT's seconds typically do.

Payment via Zelle, Paypal Friends & Family (no mention of what is being purchased), USPS Money order

Mystery Ranch 2 Day Assault Pack, Black with orange webbing L/XL SIZE. $170 Plus Shipping. New in the bag with tags on it.
https://www.mysteryranch.com/2-day-assault-pack?quantity=1&color=Wildfire Black

Seems they have more clauses than the north pole to get out of helping you.

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Would be equipped with:

• KAC 7.62 suppressor
• NightForce ATACR 1-8 FC-DMx
• Offset Aimpoint T-2
• Cloud Defensive Rein 3.0
• Vertical Foregrip

I don't plan on putting a bipod on this. More of a battle rifle. I'm tall and decently strong but I don't want it to be unwieldy.

For all distance engagements. Definitely short-distance. I'm not sure the 14.5" (with suppressor) would be any better at CQB than the 16", but I'm not sure.

Which do you recommend?

For anyone looking, Midway USA has the Aero Solus actions for $699 right now. Includes free shipping.

Brand new fde MDT ACC Elite chassis I picked up on the blem Black Friday deal with one section of the fde control bridge. I haven’t found a blem on it so I have no idea what the blem is. I put it on my rifle and played with it some on a bag at home and it’s just not what I want. Never been to the range so I’m gonna pass the Black Friday deal along to someone else with all the boxes and paperwork that I came with. $1150 tyd

I'm 7 months into retirement after 42 years in the construction industry. Over the past few months, I've noticed guys commenting on upcoming retirements, where to retire, etc. and thought perhaps a "Retired Guy Thread" may be interesting. Hobbies, activities, exercise, insurance, vacation suggestions or questions (if vacation is a thing when retired), etc. Bascially, anything related to retirement and motivating us retirees to keep active and share info among others. Maybe it will work, or maybe the whole site is a "Retired Guy" thread.

I'll start it with a repost from my post earlier today:

Yesterday was a great day in retirement. A cloudy, damp, dreary 37 degree day here in WI. No reason to stay inside, so I decided to go squirrel hunting. It was quiet, almost surreal, in the woods. The squirrels were not very active, so I snuck around and sat around for about 4-1/2 hours to get the limit. That was the first time in 42 years that I didn't have to be somewhere, or be doing something else, when I went on a squirrel hunt. No time limit, no worries, no thoughts of work...a great day!

Would be equipped with:

• KAC 7.62 suppressor
• NightForce ATACR 1-8 FC-DMx
• Offset Aimpoint T-2
• Cloud Defensive Rein 3.0
• Vertical Foregrip

I don't plan on putting a bipod on this. More of a battle rifle. I'm tall and decently strong but I don't want it to be unwieldy.

For all distance engagements. Definitely short-distance. I'm not sure the 14.5" (with suppressor) would be any better at CQB than the 16", but I'm not sure.

Which do you recommend?

Shot less than hundred round took off for different cal barrel is like new no it does not have barrel nut

125 shipped PayPal ff

I want to get a silencer to protect my ears. Mainly, it would be used on an RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I would be shooting from a bench or platform in my yard. No Chris Kyle stuff.

I know nearly nothing about silencers. It seems very complicated. Apparently, some can be used for multiple calibers, and there are different ways of attaching them. I didn't know they could be used along with brakes, but I found that out yesterday.

I want decent noise suppression and no interference with accuracy. Those are the big priorities. I would like to be able to use the silencer with .308 and other calibers ranging down to .204 if possible.

I emailed a silencer vendor for advice. I wonder if people here could help me understand the reply:

I would go with the Dead Air Sandman S. Then you will need 2 additional Dead Air muzzle breaks. 1 in 5/8x24 and a 2nd in 1/2x28

Click to expand...

I have no idea why I need two additional brakes or why they would take different threads. Any clues?

Hi SH Peeps,
I had a question which leans more on aesthetics than actual function but it has been bugging me nonetheless.

I recently got a Sidewinder Brake from Area 419 for my 7PRC build. After mounting it and torquing it down to the recommended specs, I noticed a gap between the barrel and the brake.



The gap is 0.15" wide (as measured by calipers) - and it is driving me crazy.

My question is as follows:
Should I get a high temp O-Ring that meets those dimensions or would it be advisable to get a metal spacer instead?

I am all ears.

CC

Bushnell DMR3 3.5-21 with G4P reticle. Scope caps included. $SOLD comes in box with sunshade.

Fellow Members,
I have seen rifles on this site, both bolt action and semi-auto, that have some amazing camouflage patterns applied to them, and others that look fantastic without camo. I was interested to find out what was your personal motivation to camo (paint, Cerakote, etc.), or not. Was it:
Nostalgia - pattern was something that was on the rifle that you carried while serving as a Marine or Army sniper
Functionality - for hunting
Artwork - as a way to enhance the rifle's appearance, and as a form of self-expression
Tacticool - "Camo on a rifle is just the bomb!!"
No camo - like the rifle just as it is
Personally, I haven't done anything to my rifles so far because I'm too scared to try and possibly f*** them over. But that's not to say that I won't try it in the future.
What was your reasoning?

Sold

Lucky the guy was running a dash cam.
Still LMAO

I just mounted a pair of Vortex Pro 30mm rings, 1.54” height, on my Seekins SP10. I’m mounting a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20 , 50mm scope. The rings have 2 screws on each side of each ring, 4 screws per ring total. The torque spec is 18 in-lbs. I’m using a Wheeler Fat Wrench which has seemed fine in all other instances mounting many scopes. I set the torque to 16-17 in-lbs, and alternating sides to even out the gap. After torquing it down, it looks like the ring halves are touching. If they touch, you may not have adequate friction holding the scope. I have never had scope ring halves touch. I prefer to have a visible, with naked eye, gap between the ring halves. I removed the top rings and reinstalled at 15 in-lbs (marked on Fat Wrench) and was able to get a feeler gauge of thickness 0.002”, in between 3 of the 4 ring gaps. Has anyone ever had rings touching like this or so close you can’t get a 0.002” feeler gauge in between? I’m going to try and return the rings and get another brand that has an appreciable gap. I would say 0.010-0.030 is what I am use to seeing. The Nightforce NX8 scope tube has no marks on it. I measure the rings ID vertically at 29.69mm and horizontally at 29.97mm. So the design must be for the fairly weak aluminum ring to conform (elastically bend) to the 30mm scope tube. Seems they are made to have practically no gap.

Selling my like new Nightforce 7-35 ATACR with Mil-XT reticle in FDE. Only mounted has not been shot. Comes in original box, all paperwork, accessories (scope caps, sun shade, tools), and SWAG pack.

I'm also Including the FDE Ultramount and RAP-i

$3100 shipped.

Looking to move to the ZCO 5-27 with MPCT 2X reticle so that would be the only possible trade interest.

I will post additional pictures in the next couple days.

Hello, so I've upped the ante for rabbit hole infiltration. When it comes to achieving the most consistent reloaded ammunition, what is the ranking for most to least important with segregation, 1) headspace distance (use of Redding Instant Indicator, example some rounds are 0, some are +/-.001, .002, etc), 2) ogive to lands (use of Redding Instant indicator), 3) brass weight, 4) length of brass, or 5) something I'm missing? I use Lapua for 6mmBR, Alpha Munitions & Lapua small rifle for 6.5 Creedmoor and Lapua and Federal GM match for .308. Bullets are all match grade Sierra or Hornady. At the range, I usually have a good group but with 1 "flyer" in 5 probably 7 out of 10 times. Maybe the "flyer" was me or environmental but at least I can have piece of mind that the rounds are as well-prepared as they can be. P.S. no neck-turning, goal is consistency and repeatability for mainly informal target practice and prep for 1000 yard shooting. Thanks.

Discuss!

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Bought a factory Remington 700 PCR in 6.5 CM, it came with a 0 MOA Pic rail. Out to 1000 the rifle was dead on but I couldnt get enough elevation out of it so I decided to switch it for a 30 MOA I had laying around. . I go to take the screws out of the old rail and holy moly theiy're only finger tight and one, the front was not even that tight.

Weather has prevented me from taking it out, but that kind or got my attention.. When I put the rail on my new 7PRC I made sure they are loctite'd and properly torqued.

Anybody want to buy a nice, used, 0MOA rail?

All new ACC elite control bridge titanium blue. I have two of them. Sold

Also knew MDT external weights one pair no QD holes. $50 shipped

New never opened MDT metal 12 round mags. Two available. Sold

New never opened MDT mag extender 4 available. Sold