Hi, I'm sorry, maybe I'm off topic, I'm a 3D artist, I'm creating a model of the Wilcox Raid-Xe laser sight, if there are users of this device, could you take a picture of it from different angles, there are just very few photos of the Xe version from different angles on the Internet , I am mainly interested in the sides and bottom with picatinny rail attachment, I would be very grateful to you.
Thanks in advance.

Shakes head.

I’ve got 2 xlr elements and only need one. So one must go.
One is an aluminum, with folding carbon buttstock 12.5”, ergo grip, and bag rider in the multicam.
The other is the exact same setup in magnesium in black/grey kryptek

The aluminum has seen a nrl hunter match and some range time. So shows some wear in the usual spots..arca rail, around the mag well and up buy action edges.
The magnesium is brand new and never had an action in it. Pulled from box for picture.

Whichever sells first I’m keeping the other.
$975 for aluminum
$1350 for magnesium
Cross posted

Selling my MPA folding Hybrid. Comes with Wiebad cheek pad and buttstock weight set, and is custom cerakoted.

SOLD PP shipped (no trades please)

$1100 shipped to your door.

I’m looking for some guidance on TBAC’s CB suppressor mounting system. I just bought an Ultra 7 CB suppressor (waiting on form 4). I have the included muzzle brake in hand and I can mount it on my rifle. I am going on an elk hunt next month and will be using this rifle. As such, I’m hesitant to mount the brake and use it because I never use ear pro when hunting. I am looking at buying the CB flash hider instead. This would be appreciable for hunting when I cannot use a suppressor (due to legality).

My questions about the flash hider over the brake are:
-Does a flash hider negatively effect wear on a suppressor as opposed to a brake?
-Is a flash hider inherently less accurate than a brake?
-How does the TBAC CB flash hider compare to the brake? I see that the majority of shooters mount the brake and it’s difficult to find pics of the TBAC CB flash hider.

Sig p320 x5 legion with delta point pro(2.5 moa dot), 3 legion mags, 1 21 round tac ops mag, 1 15 round mag for the wilson combat compact grip module which had never been fires only mocked up and carried once with the legion slide (yes it fits). X5 legion soft case from 511. Still have the original hard case as well. Lighter recoil spring is installed will include the heavier one with purchase plus the iron site plate cover. I love this gun its a tac driver with zero recoil. But with a pcs and engagement coming up I don't need 2 full size pistols. Not looking to separate unless all competent sell around the same time. Trades will definitely be considered but cash is king. Will include iwb compact holster no charge. Can include phlster floodlight owb x300 w/ ubl midride, qls set up with legstrap for additional fee.
Looking to get 1200 shipped tried adding to my other post but can't edit the title or anything. Willing to combine anything I have listed on their to trade for higher end glass

Hello all! ,I mounted a Zeiss V4 to my ext mountain tactical rail but the objective comes bloody close to the rail. I Filed off some material so I’m able to get a thick sheet of paper through. Is that good enough? Or will the recoil cause them to touch? Cartridge is .308, thank you.

I'm not saying it's better, as Morricone's soundtrack is brilliant, but the realistic sound, or silence, except for the lonely dust blowing, is powerful.

I love it when Harmonica smiles, knowing he finally has Frank where he wants him.

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And I'd fuck their new prime minister

Defiance Anti Long action magnum
Used for 60 total rounds
Comes with defiance scope rail and Hawkins direct thread rings (30mm low w bubble level

950 shipped for it all

Not enough to intentionally kill a teenager just because he is a conservative, and let the guy who plowed him over and admitted he did it out of HATE for his political views, now an 84 year old is shot for being pro-life!

I was having a conversation with my friend on Mil vs MOA. I know this had been debated to the death and i understand both sides. I said for me the military is 100% mil and i see most of the shooting community being mil.

My friend who is an LEO and much better shooter than me said. The army is still using MOA. He said the army and marines are different. Obviously there is more than those 2.

But my question is. is the military not 100% percent mill?

I am open to being wrong.

Life creeps up on you . . .

When you're young you never think about what will happen when you get OLD(ER)! It doesn't matter if you were a Cub Scout, Webelo and Boy Scout. It was about hanging out with your friends and family. You graduate high school and get drafted a couple of years later because there was still a draft. Instead of leaving the country you do your best anyway because that is the way you were brought up. Years after your service and an Honorable Discharge you get a job with a local law enforcement agency because that is what you want to do. You spend nearly 32 years working for that agency when you retire at 60 years old. The state you've grown up in, and loved for what it had to offer, is passing laws that are now about to make you a criminal even though nothing you have done has endangered anyone else's life or well being. So time to find a new place to live where you won't be treated like a criminal for liking firearms.

You find a new place to live but now you're older and they're telling you that you have to sign up for MediCare. Problem is my former job got me life time medical insurance. You don't see the problem, the problem is if I sign up for MediCare it becomes my primary medical insurance and my existing insurance becomes the secondary insurance. That being the case if MidiCare was to deny a procedure my existing insurance will likely deny it as well instead of simply covering the procedure. Now I've passed on MediCare and delayed my Social Security benefits because my retirement is doing just fine for me despite a divorce taking part of my retirement. Another problem is if I chose to file for my Social Security benefit which was funded outside my law enforcement carrier my SS benefit would be reduced because of something called WEP (Windfall Elimination Provision). I'm going to be penalized for having a government career that didn't collet social security tax for all or a portion of it, even though my social security qualification was covered before I had the "local government" job.

Not only that but if I choose to start collecting Social Security benefits, I would be mandated into participation in MediCare which could/would affect my medical coverage. Not only that but because I didn't apply for MediCare at 65 they will now penalize me. So now they want to make me receive less medical coverage but also make me pay more for the privilage!

You serve your community, you serve your country and yet they want to bend you over and not even provide lube while you're being phucked! So much for trying to provide or protect our senior citizens! So what about that money that they collected all those years you were paying into Social Security? What do you think!

I'm actually lucky. I had a job that provided a decent retirement including full medical coverage. What I don't care for is a government that tries to mandate you accept their lessor medical coverage instead of using my collected funds to supplement the coverage I earned through my job. So much for our elected officials looking out for the people they are supposed to represent!

I know a lot of you are probably younger than I am and haven't even thought about any of this but just wanted you to be aware of what might be in front of you as you get older.

As title states. I tend to shoot "low" when using a pistol red dot, admittedly only when shooting fast. So, at the risk of getting beat up..... Would it be an all-around terrible idea to adjust my RMR POI accordingly? My gut feeling is it's stupid and I need to address my fundamentals, but I just can't (so far) fix my problem.

If i didnt hate the cold so much I'd be all over this.

A private island in Canada with a 4-bedroom home ... - Flipboard​

https://flipboard.com › topic › lifestyle › insider



Insider - This entire island in Canada could be yours for just $380000. Duval Island, a private island in Ontario, is currently on the market. The property ...

Ok Hiders... could use some insight/experience or feedback on car batteries. Not EV or Hybrid or that crap. Just regular car batteries in your daily drivers or collector cars.

So here is the background... typically I have always seen it as no problem to get 5 years out of a battery. Sometimes 6 - 7 if it's treated well. That's been experience since I started to drive in the early '80's. Lots of cars, tractors, etc. in that time. And many, many more on the cars I wrench on for clients.

But in the last 3 - 4 years, batteries have been dying well short of 5 years (60 months). Including in collector type cars and even my daily driver plow truck (18 Ram 3500 Cummins.) Life seems to be between 36 and 45 months and the batteries are... dead. Won't hold charge. Need replacement. In-car testing (it's dead Jim) and multimeter testing shows they won't take a charge. Well short of 'warranty.'

BTW, we always use 'tier one' batteries. Exide. Interstate. Napa (yes, they are/were good.) And Optima for folks who want a gel-cell. For cars in Cold Climates, we sometimes use Deep Cycle because they go months without driving. So no WalMart or shit-brand batteries.

So what say you guys? Has anyone noticed the same thing? Short battery life? Failure well short of 'warranty' date?

Here are some thoughts I have.

A. My use on vintage (prewar) collector type cars may be outside the 'normal' use of a battery that might be designed for alternators and computer-controlled voltage regulation... not old Dynamos, cutouts and mechanical regulators. This does not explain why my 'modern' vehicle batteries don't last long, though.

B. Batteries are not designed for being driven once a week or 'occasionally' and even when fitted with disconnect or put on trickle chargers are getting 'damaged' by this kind of usage vs. daily drivers and constant charge.

C. Batteries now are shit and don't make the lifetimes no matter what is printed on them. This is influenced by D... below:

D. Battery makers have realized that most cars aren't kept for more than 36 months and 'warranty' period... so they are designed to make it little or no longer than that. Yes, they have 60 months on the labels, but somewhere at the Battery Companies, actuaries or beancounters or accountants have realized that noone 'returns' a battery for warranty any more. And just tells dealer to 'fit a new one.' So they can offer a 60 month warranty, but sell a 36 month battery... and if 1 in 100 tries to collect on the warranty, the companies can pay out and still know that 99 others won't collect. A bargain for them!

E. I am totally wrong on this and my empirical observations are totally off and I am just being cynical and can't read the punches on batteries that... I often fitted four or five years ago.

So interested in your input? This place has more 'connected' folks and "Sniper-level Observers" than any place on the Interwebs. Observations are what I am interested in. Since there are probably not many Battery Diarists among you foot fettishists....

Thanks for any thoughts!

Sirhr

Selling my Impact Precision chambered in .223 AI by Bugholes. The barrel is a 22" 1:7tw Bartlein carbon fiber that has exactly 19 rounds fired (brass is included). It shoots as it should. I have too many rifle projects and know I won't give this one the attention it deserves.

SOLD

Complete stock setup w/ mag:

Used McMillan HTG Stock for Remington 700 short action with bottom metal and a 5 round AI mag. Has been bedded for a factory r700 s/a, and dbm is bedded too.

- 2 QD attachments: flush cup bottom rear and bottom front (integral with pic rail)
- front pic bipod rail
- adjustable cheekpiece
- DBM w/integral barricade stop (I can't remember the brand but is Australian and bought on here)
- action screws

*$550* shipped CONUS. Venmo or zelle preferred but will do paypal ff as well.

https://www.foxbusiness.com/busines...itive-covid-19-second-time-less-than-2-months

LOL, talk about ironic. After causing the deaths of thousands and untold suffering to millions more with his company's poison, I hope this scumbag suffers every single side effect listed. As if you needed more proof that these vaccines are useless garbage.

After many years of shooting PRS matches I decided this year mostly do to the components I had on hand that I would shoot my 223 in local one day matches. As a background, I started shooting tactical/ PRS matches back in 2009 with a Sav model 10 308. I then moved to a 260 rem 700 and then a 6 Dasher. I always placed well and was a decent shooter. So the following really has me perplexed.

Background of the rifle, I had my gun smith build a 223AI barrel this barrel absolutely hammers, only issue is that the savage action didn't feed the AI cases well. I pulled it off and put a 223 Rem Hawk Hill 1-7 T barrel on it in 2020. Got married and moved to a new house and built my gun room last fall/ this spring so it sat for a while and never got a lot of use. June of this year Im ready to jump back into matches. This is where the it goes sideways.

Rifle Specs
Sav 10 Action
Hawkhill 1-7 223 Rem barrel
TBAC Ultra 7 223 can
Rifle Basix Trigger
PVA barrel nut
NSS Lug
XLR Element.
Gen II PST / Gen II Razor

Ammo Specs (after much testing)
Lapua Cases
75 ELD-Ms
22.8 of 8208
Seated 20 thou. off the lands.
2875FPS MV

Rifle shot groups .5 or less when I would practice.

Match one. Rifle is all over.. I can't consistently call my miss. Rezero scope during match, its good for a stage or 2 and then its .6 low. Shoot zero target after match and .5 low. Send scope to Vortex (PST Gen II) they send me a new one. State paralax and zero shift noted.

Match 2. Rifle is still also over but zero seems to fine with new Gen II PST. Shoot groups and they now don't seem to be as consistent. Check my seating die and notice I had an issue with setup. Setup die correctly and run a COL test. 20 thou off and touching the lands (Measured with Hornady COL gauge) both shot under .5 at 100 but 20 thou off seemed a bit more consistent. Thought I would test the rifle with a different scope so I tossed my Gen II Razor on it. Shoots great groups before match, but I ran out of ammo to fine tune my zero. Leave range with it .4/.5 low.


Match 3. Rifle is now .4/.5 high on zero range. Make adjustment and shoot a ragged hole zeroed up. First stage (45 min after zeroing) Im .5 low consistently. Move scope back to where it was in the at the beginning of the day. Start hitting some targets, woohoo I remember this used to be fun. Shoot a paper stage at 100 yards and Im exactly back to where it was at the beginning of the day at the zero range. Zero some stages and run a few great ones holding and not dialing.

Overall point of where I am.

I feel like something wonky is going on with the barrel. Is it because it is a "marksman" or light contour. Is it because its a 7t? I know the Razor is good as it just came off my 260 that doesnt do this. At this point I am not sure what to change to test it. Do I rebarrel (current barrel has maybe 700 on it. much it chasing these issues) is it the load? Does 8202 drift that much is different temps? I have never chased a rifle with these issues. I have taken my 260 and my 308 to the range and shoot them perfectly fine. What gives with the 223. I have checked ever bolt on the rifle. Double checked headspace. Closes on a go wont close on a no go. ejector and extractor removed. It just does not stay consistent, and it changes from one stage to another. Anyone have some insight? Id also bet if I took it to the range tomorrow, it would shoot a decent group.

So I've got this "great idea" for a rifle I want to build, I know I'm asking a lot out of one rifle and none of it will be perfect, but that's how all of my guns end up so I'm fine with it. Goal is a 300prc build, 20in(ish) barrel, pretty much sold on using an ARC Nucleus as the start, will also run a TBAC Dominus but that's as far as I've decided on so far. Purpose of the rifle will be Alaska hunting, with the occasional PRS or Competition Dynamics style match when I get the chance and just enjoying shooting more long range.

Has anyone else gone down a similar road before that has any advice? Like what are my stock/ chassis options, I've looked at the usual (XLR, MPA Ultralight, KRG Bravo, MDT LSS/ XRS, ARC Xylo) are there any I missed that might be a better fit? Leaning towards the Xylo because by the time you spec most of the others out they're pretty much the same price but don't give "the fizz" like the Xylo does.

Also has anyone done a switch barrel on a Nucleus? The bolt faces are easy enough to swap so I'm assuming it's possible, just haven't found any examples yet. Idea being to get a 308 or something else cheaper to shoot to switch between to get more time on the gun.

I'm not terribly concerned with weight, but under 10lbs with glass would be ideal. Budget is a concern, but know there's a few places it's not worth skimping on and where I can save a few bucks to upgrade down the road if I want.

Had a pst2 3-15 for awhile and liked the features but didn't have time to use it much so sold it to fund other things. Having more free time now I'm looking for a replacement. I joined this forum for the NV/ thermal knowledge and am pretty green at longer range shooting so am looking for a good scope to learn on.

I've read up on the Xtr3 and reviews seem overwhelmingly positive with the only real complaints being stiff adjustments. Most if my glass I'd consider solid mid range (g2/g3 LPVOs, acog, slc binos) and the xtr seems to fall in this category.

Eventual host will be a 556 mrp with stainless barrel but my brother who's more versed in longer range suggested a .22 upper if I want to learn to spin turrets and judge wind so thats a possibility. I'd considered getting one of these when they were a lot more and they seem like a lot of scope for 1k.

Eta looking at the US made non illuminated version.

Any ideas on coating baffles and tubes to make cleaning easier? Has to take heat without hard baking the powder mix

Built by 360 precision. I am selling my prs build. Reason is I am moving, going to flight school, and starting my new career so im going to have to sell some of my finest possessions until the future. Build cost me 4700$. Ill sell it for 3400obo$. It is definitely the most accurate gun ive ever shot. .25 moa minimum and one holed groups at its best. Loves berger hybrids with 350 rounds down it.

1. Defiance Ruckus Nitride Finish
2. Brux barrel 7.5 twist. Mtu contour Fluted and cerekoted
3. MPA Matrix chassis cerakoted
4. two stage diamond trigger

Details are in the pics and receipts
Price Comes with a case and shipping.