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CZ455 Modification Thread

Charger442

Charger442

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    • Nov 2, 2010
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    Seems there is some data scattered here in the Rimfire section on the CZ 455 and its variants (Tacticool, Precision Trainer, evolution, Varmint) and I thought maybe it would be nice to try and consolidate it into one thread so as questions arise or someone buys one, this thread can be used for a starting point at least. At best it can help someone make the mods they are wanting in their CZ 455s.

    here are links to a couple of threads with good info in them:

    action screw torque
    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/cz-455-pt-action-screws-torque-value.170908/

    DIP base and mount
    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/cz455-scope-mounts.169816/

    CZ455 barrels
    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/cz-455-barrel.223960/



    but i think this thread should have the info in it with regards to what bolt knobs you had installed and who did them, Lilja or CZ factory barrel swaps, scope bases, rings heights to clear varmint, trigger upgrades, mag well upgrades etc.

    Let us know what you have done to your CZ455. I'm sure pictures are welcome by everyone who wants to see what upgrades have been made and or how they were done.
     
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    This is a great thread. I just purchased a 452 varmint about two weeks ago. I installed a DIP 25 MOA base, Leuopold PRW Med rings and a vortex PST 4-16. I bought this to polish up my skills and not waste my 308 ammo. Anyway, a yodave trigger kit will be on it's way soon. My trigger has some noticeable creep. The rifle shoots great, I am very happy with this rifle.
    I shot this yesterday at 25 yards with Remington golden bullet bulk pack. Tomorrow I will take it out to 50 yards.
     

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    I went with the YoDave trigger kit as well. Very pleased with it thus far (especially for the price). Added a DIP rail and extended mag release. Will be painting the stock shortly. I would love info on the bolt knob install. Not afraid to give it a try myself but would like other options as well.
     
    nesikabay said:
    The best thing i did to up grade my CZ was sell it and get a 40x. I have never look back. No regrets
    Click to expand...

    Good for you... No relevance to this thread at all other than you had a CZ but thank you for sharing...

    My CZ 455 .22LR American is going through roughly the same transformation as described so far in the threads attached. Exceptions are I'm using a Boyd Tacticool stock, and CZ factory Varmint barrel. In about a week a Kampfeld Campfire bolt knob will be installed, as well as a DIP extended rail. I don't know if I will change the bottom metal yet however but will see how it goes. I will also shoot the gun without bedding first then decide if I want to bed later. One question, if I am going to do a full skim bed job, are pillars absolutely necessary?

    My rifle currently has the Yodave kit installed, and the bolt was worked on to smooth everything out.

    With regards to scope, only scope I have available right now is a USO SN3 that is way overkill for this little rifle, but I will put it on for shits and giggles... :D
     
    I too am working up my new 455 Varmint. I changed the spring and got the trigger to 1.5#. It still has creep. I've got some YO Dave parts and will try to get the creep out soon. I just got the DIP AL mag well, 25 MOA rail and extended mag release. I hope to install them next week. I've been shooting CCI SV through it and am getting average 5 shot groups around 5/8" at 50 yds. Sometimes I get them down to 1/2". I've got an assortment of match ammo that I have yet to try. For right now I'm going to keep the factory stock. I've got a Sightron 24X on it.
     
    pklin1297 said:
    Good for you... No relevance to this thread at all other than you had a CZ but thank you for sharing...

    My CZ 455 .22LR American is going through roughly the same transformation as described so far in the threads attached. Exceptions are I'm using a Boyd Tacticool stock, and CZ factory Varmint barrel. In about a week a Kampfeld Campfire bolt knob will be installed, as well as a DIP extended rail. I don't know if I will change the bottom metal yet however but will see how it goes. I will also shoot the gun without bedding first then decide if I want to bed later. One question, if I am going to do a full skim bed job, are pillars absolutely necessary?

    My rifle currently has the Yodave kit installed, and the bolt was worked on to smooth everything out.

    With regards to scope, only scope I have available right now is a USO SN3 that is way overkill for this little rifle, but I will put it on for shits and giggles... :D
    Click to expand...


    I think pillar are a good idea! Otherwise the stock may compress as you torque down the action screws, which will not give reliable torque on the action. I am becoming a believer in both pillar bedding and skim bedding lately! I think they both (done right) are great for accuracy!
     
    I'm feeling loquacious this evening, so allow me to make
    a few observations that may, or may not, have value.

    The CZ 455 is not a match grade rifle in any way, shape, or form.
    It is, however, an ideal rifle for someone who likes to hunt small game,
    enjoy some range time punching paper, and tinker with as funds allow.

    The factory hammer forged barrels range in accuracy from sub-moa,
    if you get really lucky with the assembly line lottery, up to 2-1/2 moa
    as allowed by factory testing using high end ammunition.
    The factory trigger is fine with it's woods safe 3 plus pounds of pull.
    The trigger was never intended for bench use, so it does have a bit of creep.
    Not a problem for someone popping squirrels or rabbits with bulk ammo,
    but definitely going to affect group sizes punching paper at the range.
    The walnut and laminated stocks are comfortable and of much better quality
    than the all-weather injection molded plastics offered on the entry level rimfires out there.
    The 455 American and Varmint stocks suffer from recoil flex.
    You can see this for yourself by where you place the shooting rest, relative to the receiver.
    The farther out on the forestock you get, the wider the trajectory dispersion becomes.
    The 455 Trainer with the fiberglass stock is much more rigid and doesn't suffer from this weakness.
    What is nice about the 455 is the ease of diy accuracy upgrades, for those of us who like tinkering.
    Triggers can be upgraded with a minimum of expense and effort. Yo-Dave, Rifle Basix, Timney
    all offer trigger components to fit your budget. Me, I'm waiting for the 455 set trigger to be available.
    The 453 I tried with the set trigger was sweet. Pillaring is a necessity. The stock inletting and
    action screw holes will allow the bottom metal to kink when torquing the action screws.
    Epoxy bedding or shimming of the receiver is an easy fix for the gaps left between the stock
    and receiver, caused by variations in the factory assembly line. A match grade barrel can be purchased
    and installation is as easy as swapping any of the factory barrels. Barrel shimming/bedding
    can alleviate the stock flex, barrel harmonics and you end up with a rimfire rifle that'll shoot sub-moa
    if you use high end ammunition. Don't expect sub-moa with inexpensive or bulk ammo. Not gonna happen.

    All tweaks, modifications can be found easily on-line with a little effort.
    Videos, forum posts and blogs detailing, step by step, how to improve the rifle.
    Worked for me and I'm no expert, just an amateur.

    If you want to own a rifle that can shoot with the experts, expect to pay what they pay for a match grade rifle.
    For the rest of us, the 455 is a mid level rifle that can be tweaked as your budget allows, or used as is
    to ventilate tin cans or perforate edible rodents. Didn't mean to be so verbose, but what the heck.
     
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    I have spent a little time with a 455 and after tinkering on them some I feel comfortable in saying they are a well made rifle with great aftermarket upgrades avaliable. The action design does suffer in a few small ways. First the way the barrel forcing screws thread into the action drastically reduces the ammount of bedding surface for the front of the action. However that is made up for by the large tange which should have a healthy pillar installed to aid in support. Second I am not a fan of the design of the bolt cocking ramp surface as they have a large raised area at the start of the ramp which creats a very heavy inital bolt lift. But both of these things are very minor and can be corrected with ease. The feel of this rifle assembled in the Manners stock with the Lilja barrel is very nice it is not like shooting a scaled down rimfire by any means. It would be hard to find a rifle for the same price point that offers the same inital quality or options for upgrades that has the accuracy potential of the CZ.
     
    I believe the topic of this thread is CZ455 Modification Thread... Why people need to come in here discussing how this rifle is inferior to true match grade rimfire rifles is beyond me. Personally, I am modifying mine because I'm a constant tinkerer. I don't have a centerfire large caliber rifle currently to have my CZ455 serve as a "trainer" for, I just want a fun rimfire that is not a 10/22 or a variant thereof, and I didn't want to spend much more for Anschutz or the like...

    I installed my barreled action in the new Boyd's Tacticool stock last night and found the front action screw to be too short... I have the J&P hex action screw set for the 455 American which fit fine in the walnut stock, but the front screw is too short in the new stock, and the rear screw is actually a little long for the front. Can someone tell me if there is a screw set that will fit the 455 and Boyd stock? Thanks.
     
    Why people need to come in here discussing how this rifle is inferior to true match grade rimfire rifles is beyond me.
    Click to expand...

    Entertainment value? It's why I said it may have value, or it may not.
    I did cover all the modifications and options I went through, but if it had no value
    what the heck, ignore it and move on. It didn't hurt, it may help, either way, no worries.

    As to the screw length problems, not a surprise, found the same problem on my 455 Varmint
    when pillaring and bedding. Only 2 full threads of bite into the receiver, before pillaring.

    not-many.JPG


    My solution was a trip to the local hardware store,
    where I purchased two longer 6mm stainless machine screws
    to replace the factory supplied action screws.

    replacements.JPG


    A little time with a bastard file and a diamond lap shortened the stainless screws

    shorten.JPG


    Until the screws fit just below flush to the interior of the receiver
    both front

    screw-flush.JPG


    and rear

    rear-flush.JPG
     
    Thanks Justin Amateur for the info. I just went to the garage and filed a steeper bevel on the heads of the J&P screws and now they fit fine. I do appreciate the info you gave since I may pillar and skim bed the action later and for sure I will need longer screws. I haven't seen the ones you listed at my local Home Depot or Lowes but I'm sure I am find them online somewhere. One question, are the threads in the CZ actions coarse, or fine? I see this differentiation for metric screws here... And if you don't mind, what did you use for pillars?

    Thanks.
     
    Ace hardware was where I found the flat head/hex drive,
    6mm-1 metric machine screw, I think that's the coarse thread.
    For pillars I used Hillman bronze flange and sleeve bearings.

    hillman-pillars.JPG


    The flange bearing is countersunk into the underside until flush
    creates a large load surface that keeps the bottom metal from kinking

    bottom-view-after.JPG


    The straight bearing is used to fill the remainder of the gap
    with a relief cut to clear the forward magazine screw and tab

    fore-screw.JPG


    So that the final fit looks like this

    screw-in.JPG


    [
     
    This is a great idea for pillars will this work on the 452 Varmint?
    I found this info on another forum. This may be relevant here. I am going to try this on my 452.

    CZ 452 Varmint 22LR accurizing tips.

    Free float the barrel from the Lug forward so that a thickness of 2 business cards or 2 strips cut from a file folder will freely slide between the barrel and stock back to the barrel lug. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use deep well socket and 80 grit sand paper.

    When finished, seal the wood with a finish like tung oil, polyurethane or something similar. Give it 2 or 3 coats letting dry between coats.

    Next is the barrel lug. The lug slides freely in a dovetail on the bottom of the barrel.
    Remove it and take it to the hardware store with you. Get a metric socket head (allen head) set screw that is short in length. We will use this to secure the lug to the barrel.

    Now thread the set screw into the lug but do not tighten it yet.

    Put the action and lug into the stock. Screw the action screw into the lug just a little and also finger tighten the rear action screw.

    Now using the front screw center the lug in the stock hole. Remove the screw and tighten the set screw this will secure the lug in the dovetail.

    Next, you do NOT want the action screw to touch the set screw in the lug.
    So to check that put a drop of fingernail polish on the end of the stock/lug screw, let dry and then thread into lug and tighten. Remove the screw and look at the fingernail polish. If it touched the set screw the fingernail polish will be marred or have marks on it. If it touched you will need to grind or file 1 or 2 threads off the screw to shorten it.

    I have found that my Czs shoot the best with 24 inch lbs of torque on both the front and rear action screws, yours may vary.

    If you have access to a torque wrench in inch lbs when you get to the range start at about 18 in lbs and shoot some 5 shot groups and try different settings until you get to the “Sweet Spot”.
     
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    I just finished installing a TacOps knob on mine. It was the Brownells kit that has a threaded adapter. The adapter has a pin on one end and the thread on the other, wih a 3/8 inch shoulder in the middle. I recessed the shoulder into the knob, cut off 3/4 of the CZ knob, drilled a hole through the remaining knob and into the shaft. I then switched to a smaller bit and continued through the CZ shaft until it partially exited the shaft. (Didn't have to go very far.) This allowed a relief hole for the extra devcon to flow out. I cut some rings into the shaft part of the TacOps adapter for a little extra bite for the Devcon. After the Devcon set up, I used an angle grinder to rough out the remaining CZ knob, then dremeled, then filed, then sanded. It came out really close, but I had to use a small amount of Devcon at the junction to get the final blending that I wanted.

    The rest of the build
    DIP 25 MOA rail
    DIP Aluminum mag well
    Long Rifles threaded my barrel for new Liberty suppressor. Don't have yet.
    Vortex Viper PST (4-16) in Leupold Mark 4 medium rings.
    YoDave kit on the way, but I may switch it out with the Timney in my 452.
     
    Bone head move alert...

    In the process of tuning the trigger tonight with trying a different shim in the Yodave kit, I managed to allow the ball bearing that is a part of the sear to slide out from where ever it was resting against in the action. After repeated efforts to push the sear back into place with the ball bearing still "off", I gave up and backed out the sear pin to try to reset the sear... I know I have read somewhere how difficult it is to reinstall the sear after the ball bearing pops out, but I finally got a first hand experience tonight...

    Long story short, can anyone offer some helpful way to reinstall the sear, and that spring + ball bearing combo? A picture of where the ball bearing should be resting against would be helpful also. Thanks much!
     
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    Thanks much, I found the same link and the whole thing was back together in a jiffy...

    Had the stock drilled for pillars today, and the pillars are prepped and cut to length. Also had the bolt knob installed as well as the DIP extended rail. Here are some pics of the progress:

    20130504_192754_zps0f166f3e.jpg


    20130504_193202_zps4237f74f.jpg


    20130504_193324_zpsd3bc0baa.jpg


    20130504_192829_zpsdaf26751.jpg


    20130504_192856_zpsc280dc94.jpg
     
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    pklin1297 said:
    Thanks much, I found the same link and the whole thing was back together in a jiffy...

    Had the stock drilled for pillars today, and the pillars are prepped and cut to length. Also had the bolt knob installed as well as the DIP extended rail. Here are some pics of the progress:

    20130504_192856_zpsc280dc94.jpg
    Click to expand...

    What bolt knob is that??? Would love to hear how you put it on!
     
    I am extremely satisfied with my DIP Adjustable Sheer kit for my 455 PT. The second to lightest spring has produced a 1-lb, 7-oz pull with NO creep.
     
    BenY, the knob is the Campfire series knob from Kampfeld (boltknob). Karl is an awesome guy to deal with, and this knob, to me, is the correct proportion to this rifle. The Hunter knobs he offers may work also if you need a longer knob, but the largest knob is the size of Badger knobs and those will just look out of place.

    The knob was installed by AR15barrel.com (Randall). The factory knob is cut off, a setscrew of appropriate thread pitch (5/16-24 for knob) is welded onto the factory bolt handle, then the knob is threaded on and fixed with red loctite. Some stick epoxy may be used to "blend" the transition from handle to knob better, but for now it is sufficient.
     
    pklin1297 said:
    BenY, the knob is the Campfire series knob from Kampfeld (boltknob). Karl is an awesome guy to deal with, and this knob, to me, is the correct proportion to this rifle. The Hunter knobs he offers may work also if you need a longer knob, but the largest knob is the size of Badger knobs and those will just look out of place.

    The knob was installed by AR15barrel.com (Randall). The factory knob is cut off, a setscrew of appropriate thread pitch (5/16-24 for knob) is welded onto the factory bolt handle, then the knob is threaded on and fixed with red loctite. Some stick epoxy may be used to "blend" the transition from handle to knob better, but for now it is sufficient.
    Click to expand...

    Thank you I will check into that!
     
    going to do a barrel swap on my 455 and go with the varmint profile to complete the package a little better. it looks a little funny with the wide Manners fore-end and the pencil thin 455 American barrel in there. mainly, the larger profile barrel will be a nice size to cut down to around 17.5" and thread for a can.

    i do think im going with Burris XTR low rings on top of the DIP 20 MOA rail. with a stock pack, this should be perfect height for the scope.

    I really really like the Manners T4....


    edit: on second thought, i think im going to go with medium XTRs with a stock pack. anyone have a frame of reference or can offer some help with this? Lows or mediums?
     
    Last edited:
    This is my 452 Varmint, it has a vortex pst 4-16x50, DIP 25 MOA rail and Leupold 30mm PRW Med Rings.
    PRW Med Ring Height: .350" (measured from base of ring to bottom of scope tube)

    I am not sure how different the 455 barrel profile is over the 452.
    That is a stack of three pennies. The third penny will not fit under the objective Lense. 2 pennies measure at 0.114"
    I hope this gives you a good idea of what size rings you will need.
    After trying this setup, I would prefer the standard DIP base, and a lower ring that would still fit. I would like to get the scope a little lower (I am not using a stock pack), and the 25 MOA base is not necessary with this PST because it has 75 MOA of travel, that is more than enough to get the 22lr out to whatever distance I would ever possibly shoot at.
     

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    so i found out that low Burris xtr rings are just too low with my Bushnell 40mm and front scope cap, with 20 MOA DIP rail. The scope cap wont go on, and there is about 1mm clearance on the scope and the barrel which will probably really hit the barrel when i switch to the target contour. im going to exchange them for mediums and it should be good with my stock pack and clear the barrel as well.

    Just a learning experience, i guess. Oh well, hope it helps someone else.
     
    I shot this on monday, with my 452, no modifications have been made to this rifle so far, other than the base, rings and scope.
    This is at 50 yards with aguila match rifle, front bipod and rear bag.
     

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    So I was thinking that this might make a good sticky post! Seems like the CZ rimfires are owned by quite a few of the members here and this could be a quick and easy way to find information on how to make the guns better! I think it would be a good place to discuss the 455, 453 and 452s! So I'm not sure how, but I think it would be a good idea.
     
    So I just ordered a 22LR varmint barrel for my CZ455 because I want to cut it down and thread it. I didnt think there was enough meat on the end of the American barrel to take the threading well.


    Also, I have a question about the Timney trigger for the 455... does anyone have any adjustment instructions? I think I read somewhere else that Timney triggers are set from the factory for sear engagement and that is not to be messed with and to just adjust the trigger weight screw? anyone have some help on this?
     
    Didn't need high rings but I went with medium Burris rings and I even have a stock pack with cheek weld. I think its perfect height.
     
    this is my 455 thumbhole... is it a hammer with RWS club, this was just shot off a bi pod on some grass 50 meters 5 shots....Leupold vx 1, 3-9....and a yo dave or the Australian equivalent that sweetens up the trigger....
     

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    Ok yall cz 455 shooters, need help please
    were are from whom can i get the mag clip spacer.
    have the 22mag setup, think i might try a 22lr barrel, but will need the spacer, for the 22lr mag.

    thanks all
     
    I recently cut my 455 varmint barrel to 16.5", hopefully I'll get a chance to share some groups soon! I'm planning in shooting it this weekend! Hope it shoots well!

    Ben
     
    I apologize for not posting group info. The gun shot great once I got the action screws torqued correctly. Most being at or smaller than 1/2" at 50yds if I do my part!

    Ben
     
    I shot these on sunday, my two best groups from my 452 varmint at 100 yards with winchester M-22 bulk ammo. My rifle really likes that stuff. These were shot from a bench with a bipod and a rear bag.
     

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    Who cut your barrel? I plan on cutting my 455 varmint barrel down and thread it for a suppressor. I live in Arkansas also.
    Did accuracy stay the same?
     
    Phiko said:
    Who cut your barrel? I plan on cutting my 455 varmint barrel down and thread it for a suppressor. I live in Arkansas also.
    Did accuracy stay the same?
    Click to expand...

    I cut it where I work at. X Caliber Firearms in Mena, AR. The accuracy stayed the same and possibly improved! I was told I got lucky cutting a 455 barrel with my results, but I'm not so sure.

    Ben
     
    I am thinking about picking up the boyd tacticool stock for my 452. You guys have any experience with it? What do you think of it?

    Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
     
    I am doing the paperwork right now for a Form 1 suppressor. I am planning on making a 16.5" or 18" integrally suppressed barrel for my 455. I'll post pics and maybe a video in this thread once it is completed!

    Ben
     
    I have the 455 with the manners stock. 22magnum. After shooting this the other day and then my Ruger 77/22 VBZ- I love my ruger. I like my CZ.
     
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