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SOLD WTS/WTT: Nightforce Atacr 7-35x56mm Mil-XT

I received this on trade for gentleman that won it off a prs price table. Its an open boxed model sold or traded as new and never mounted… Looking to sell for 3K TYD or trade for Swaro ATX eyepiece, 115 objective. ZCO 4-20 mpc 3 3x ret. High spec WF PVS 14…

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Where Does the Light Go?

Here's a question for those with the S&W MP-15's and similar guns......what's the best place to put your light? I've had an overly-large side-mounted light with a pressure pad mounted behind/under it, the light was on the front right of the handguard but it stuck out so far it seemed to snag on everything during drills and made the gun feel clubby and unwieldy. So I'm thinking about other options but I'm running out of them. Here's the rifle as it was an hour ago.



I have a cheapo plastic rail I can attach to the sides or bottom of the foregrip, but if I mount the light on the side I have the same problem, and if I mount it underneath my hand has damned little to hang onto, and I like to have my support hand as far forward as possible. There is a small picatinny rail about an inch long on top of the gas block, but the gun is scoped and the light would block a significant portion of the field of view.

I've thought about the O-Light PL Mini as an option, I have a couple of those, and it's the smallest thing I can find that might actually work. But with the height of both the base and the light itself, it still sticks up too far to use on top, and I am running out of options because I don't really know what else is out there to make this gun work with a light. The forend is a Magpul shorty, is there a better forend that would give me more options?

I know AR-15's are just Lego sets, and maybe I don't have the right pieces on hand. But I'm also tired of buying parts that look decent but don't work out in the long run, and get stuffed in a box in the basement, never to see the light of day again.

Any suggestions that will work with an "Optic Ready" MP-15? I'm cheap, but will happily buy what's needed here, the damn gun needs a light!

VIDEO: "Knockout Game" player sucker punches wrong person at Chicago liquor store. Gets SHOT DEAD by victim.

VIDEO:


FOLLOWUP/POLICE RESPONSE AFTER SHOOTER LEFT SCENE:

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From the consensus of various commenters, it appears that the victim had just been on line to pay for an item when the thug, who he did not know and had no prior conflict with, approached him from behind and slugged him with definitely enough force to have been potentially extremely injurious or fatal. Victim manages to get back up and shoots the thug with a pistol before leaving. From the comments it seemed to be a .22LR. Complete pass through arterial or direct heart shot on the would be knockout player. Rapid double tap most likely. Perp dies shortly after video cuts.

Hope the victim does not get located nor blabs about it to other people.

.308 barrel length, twist, powder burn rate, bullet gr interactions

I'd like to build a carry .308 that can consistently reach out to 1027yds (my range). There are going to be trade-offs for sure, so I'd like to try to get a clearer handle of what I should be looking for in an overall system that combines barrel length, twist, bullet gr, and powder burn choices to optimize ranges out to 1027yds within the parameters of a rifle that stays pretty handy. Not looking for a competition gun. My prior experience is 300WM, and 6.5CM, but I am new to .308. I probably went about my introduction to rifle backwards in that regard. I understand that .308 won't share the same BCs of those calibers.

Research I have compiled so far (please correct incorrect assumptions):
  • Basic rule of thumb: Shortening the barrel length of a .308 nets a loss of ~20 fps per inch.
  • [Edit: corrected] Fast burning powders like short barrels. Slow burn like longer barrels.
  • Slower burn powders also like heavier bullets(?)
  • Twist: 1:10 is recommended for heavier bullets.
  • Shorter barrels are stiffer. LL has shown an 18" barrel can make consistent hits at 1k. (Not sure what ammo he was using.)
I also happen to have a good deal of VV N150 on hand that I'm thinking of applying to this build, if a good idea. It's rated as "slow burn."

Are the above assumptions. correct?
If I were to use that VV N150, should I be looking at something like a 22"-24" barrel, 1:10 twist, 180 gr VLD?

How handy is a chronograph?

I am just trying to get back up to do some precision shooting with my modded CZ 452. Would having a chronographer help me dial in my ammo selection or can the stats be found online, or can I rely on DOPE and software to estimate the numbers for different ammo?

I was trying out Ely and Lapua yesterday and at 100 yards and needed 2 more mils of elevation to hit on target. How many of you have a chrony to help evaluate your factory ammo for precision shooting? I don't reload or plan on doing so anytime soon.

What influences ES/SD the most?

H4350 pushing Berger 6mm 109 LRHT in a 6GT Alpha OCD case for all questions below.

Powder? How much should .1-.2 grains of powder variance change muzzle velocity? I'm currently using a ChargeMaster with a V4 on order and expected this month.

Neck tension? Using quality dies, how much difference can neck tension be affected case to case? This is difficult for me to measure as I don't seat with a force gauge. My seat of the pants "feel" gives very little variance, but at times one "feels" more difficult to seat vs. most of the others. Is this even measurable when seating by hand?

Shoulder setback? Again, assuming a quality die how much does shoulder setback affect FPS case to case? I'm seeing very constant measurement case to case.

What should my expectations be over a five round sample? Ten round sample? 20 round sample? 40 round sample.

Thanks for your time.

Accessories Ar parts, LMT, MCX & More

Also willing to trade. Items I am looking for: P365 xl mags,
syndicate p320 xcarry slide,
Lab radar
Annealer
Rollsizer
419 zero press


Mcx virtus tanno HG for $325
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Lot of ar parts including
Radian 45/90 including detent and springs
2x lmt safties, winter Trigger guard and mag buttons
1x BAD Ass DLC catch
Bcm endplate
Mill spec buffer tube
Fcd castle nut
Knekt pic rail
$150
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Sand cutter was 60 rounds on it. You could clean it up and it would pass for new. $900. Wife made me list it price, sorry.
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Again we got the LMT shovelnose upper. Very low Round count. And besides mostly invisible marks on the pick rail from mounting a scope, looks like new. $sold

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Talk me out of an Arken EP5 5-25X56mm FFP MIL VPR for my son

I have my old .308 savage and want to give it to him with an optic and don't think I can go wrong in the price range, but do not know anyone personally that has shot one. I've only read reviews and seen youtube vids. Does anyone here have experience with one?

Dad shoots daughters Ex

Couple of things here . First of all.... WHAT THE FUCK is up with these dumb , muppet ass neighbors. I can't stop thinking why didn't the dad do the world a favor and put a couple rounds in the neighbor while he was at it.
Seriously , how about not trespassing and mind your dam buisness you F-ing retard !

Secondly I would bet money, that before this is over they will find there was more communication going on than the daughter is admitting to.


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Had to draw on someone today, police department held me at gunpoint

Was coming home from the range and a shirtless hispanic male began tailgating me from the main road my range is off, at the top of a mountain a few miles before it becomes a steep downgrade. I slow to put my truck in 2nd gear so the brakes wouldn't heat up on the steep downgrade (one lane each way). Shirtless hispanic male (hereby referred to as SHM) continues to tailgate, honking horn. As we begin to go down the downgrade, SHM enters oncoming traffic to pass me, reenters right-of-way lane, and brake checks me to a stop. Gets out of his vehicle, visibly agitated. Begins punching my window and yelling at me. I reach to the passenger seat. SHM begins apologizing and says he is a mechanic that stopped to make sure my car was okay. I verbalize to deescalate and neutralize the impending threat with "get back" "go back to your car" etc. SHM returns to his car. By now cars have lined up behind us. SHM begins to drive forward then pulls aside into a turnout. SHM reenters traffic behind me. We get to the bottom of the mountain, SHM continues to follow me as I drive home. SHM ends up in front of me due to normal traffic.

About four miles later on the same road, I come upon an intersection, I have the green light. Police cruiser stopped to my left at a red. SHM, in front of me, begins waving his hand and pointing to my vehicle. Cruiser lights up and pulls in front of me. I bring my vehicle to a stop in the middle of the intersection, immediately roll down my window and put both hands out. In a matter of 1 minute, about 6 cruisers and a motor unit converge on the intersection surrounding my vehicle. SHM comes to a stop 100 yards ahead of me, out of the intersection, exits his vehicle, and begins video recording with his phone. K9 unit appears behind me. 4 officers with guns drawn begin instructing me on how to exit the vehicle and walk backwards. I follow instructions, they handcuff me and sit me down on a curb. As this happens, SHM gets back into his car and drives off. Officers pull him over a mile up the road.

I recite everything to the officers as I just stated, stayed calm and described to them the make, model, caliber, and locations of the firearms I had in the vehicle. They checked everything out. They noticed SHM was gone. After they got my story, and I assume whatever SHM had to say, I hear an officer speaking to SHM on the phone, stating he made a very bad decision approaching and attacking someone's vehicle. They informed him I was licensed and acted within the law, and that he was lucky he wasn't dead. The officer told him "If you approached my vehicle the way you did, and I had a gun, I would have killed you".

They uncuffed me, gave me a cold bottle of water, and apologized. I had a good conversation with them after, and joked with the officer that initially drew down on me. The range I was returning from is located in a terrible part of town, albeit secluded in the mountain from the urban area, and people like SHM are run of the mill there. It was clear the tattooed, shirtless hispanic male was a frequent meth user from his appearance.

I was just glad the officers gave my firearms back.

Surprising neck tension test ... (at least it surprised me)

Been screwing around lately with different things that impact neck tension, specifically "Bushing" and "Mandrel" combinations. Took a test out to the range today, and was surprised by the results. This was with a MPA 300-WMBA rifle with maybe 1500 rounds down the barrel. Common elements between the test groups were Lapua 2x brass (annealed), Federal 215 Magnum primers, Berger 200.2x bullets, Retumbo 74.7gn of powder, and seating depth the same (obviously). The ONLY difference between test groups was the Bushing and the Mandrel.

The top-left, center, and top-right of this target is with .335 bushing and .3055 mandrel. Average velocity was 2989 with SD of 8.83 ... and crappy groups.

The bottom-left and bottom-right are 5-shots each with .333 bushing and .3050 mandrel. Average velocity was 2944 (a full 45 ft/sec less) with SD of 7.46 ... and nice tight groups.

The "pull" on the ram for the larger bushing/mandrel combination was consistent, but very light resistance. The "pull" on the ram for the smaller bushing/mandrel combination was still smooth, but with slightly more pressure to seat the bullet.

The small surprise here was that a small change to increase neck tension provided much smaller group sizes at 100 yards.
The big surprise here was that slightly more neck tension actually reduced my velocity by a significant number, all other things being equal.

Any other surprises or observations from you "Neck Tension Mavens" out there.

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