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Keep in mind the scope is going to be canted downward at the front, so leave a little wiggle room in your measurements.

It really depends on what brand/style of rings you use., as they can be labeled "medium" but be very different heights between models and manufacturers. As Billmeek said already, the Burris Signature XTR rings (the ones with inserts) in medium height should work. The rings are a bit pricey if...

Don't be afraid of Sweet's 7.62 and/or JB Cleaning Compound (the original, not the Bore Bright). But yeah, a little copper streaking at the muzzle is common.

Great rings in my opinion. The only thing is, look up the ring height before buying as they run a little taller than some brands.

That headwinds and tailwinds do not have an effect on bullet flight, even at long range.

SK was living in Dreamland if they think Standard Plus has a BC of 0.172

As previously stated, there is always some degree of wind, so don't fret. The free JBM ballistics site is usually very close in my experience (assuming correct data is entered). However, 22LRs are very sensitive to condition changes (baro, temp, altitude, etc), So a one-number-fits-all answer...

My favorite 243 coyote handload uses the 70gr Ballistic Tip. I don't know if it's still available, but Federal use to offer a 70gr Ballistic Tip 243 factory load that basically duplicated the velocity of my handload.

I don't know very much about the TOPS Windrunner, but many of the highest quality survival and tactical knives are made from 1095 carbon steel, which will indeed rust if not oiled regularly. My ESEE 6 is the same way on the non-coated part of the blade (edge and logo). 1095 is a very durable yet...

I don't have one specific ring style that I always prefer, it just depends on the set-up, but Burris Signatures are on more of my rimfires than anything else.

It really depends on the rifle. I have one that likes to be cleaned every 50-100rds, then I have some that go thousands of rounds between cleaning. If you try a couple different methods the rifle will tell you what it likes.

My favorite is still the plain old CZ 75B in black polycoat. I'm just simple I guess.

I begin testing at 50yds. This is just to find out what the rifle doesn't like. I take the promising loads to 100yds and shoot. This will whittle down the field of potentials pretty quickly . At 100yds, I'm looking as much at vertical stringing as I am overall group size. I take the few really...

In addition to using too much lube, be careful about getting the lube too far up next to the shoulder. I always look at the cases before sizing and if any lube is on or near the shoulder, I wipe off a bit in that area.

Tetra gun oil has worked well for me.

I level off the rail. You might also want to consider doing a search here for "feeler gauge scope level" for an alternative leveling process.

1/10 has been the longtime standard and works fine for most uses. Ruger went with the 1/9 twist because of very heavy VLDs that long range shooters are wanting to use and are hard to stabilize in a 1/10. Savage also went with a slightly faster twist rate in their 300WM Stealth Evolution for the...

Well, it's really hard to answer hypotheticals, but I'll give it a try... Static targets: It really depends on the target. If you want to shoot a 1/2" dot on a piece of paper at 25yds, you can. If you want to shoot a steel silhouette at 1,000yds, you can. Now, like a lot of things in shooting...

The Ruger Precision Rifle in 300 Win is just now making it into the hands of shooters across the country, so real world data is still limited. However, if I was buying today, that's what I'd get, and I'm a Savage fan in most instances. The RPR in 300 Win is going for $1500 in my area.

If you're talking about pretty good size targets (12" plates up to full silhouettes), a good 10X can work fine out to 1,000yds. Trying to shoot smaller targets is where the problem begins, because if the target is small enough, you just simply can't see it well enough to make an accurate shot...