That's the deeper version of the sear which we went away from.
If you've got decocking issues, updating the cocking piece will be worse for the system.
Please email me directly ([email protected]) and we'll come up with a game plan.
Thank you - Ray
If you've got decocking issues, updating the cocking piece will be worse for the system.
Please email me directly ([email protected]) and we'll come up with a game plan.
Thank you - Ray
Can someone measure the width of their RimX bolt, AND the inner diameter of their action? I would like to compare it to mine. Any help would be appreciated!
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Yes of course. I would still appreciate input from forum members if possible in the meantime.
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The bolt is 0.695” on mine. I’m having a hard time measuring the inner diameter.
Update: Emailed back & forth with Ray and he sent me a new firing pin assembly to try. Swapped it out but had to increase trigger pull on the TT Diamond a lot more than I would like. So I decided to try a different trigger. I have had very good luck with the JARD triggers in my CZ457's so I decided to try their competition trigger 1.5 to 3oz. Clone of the Jewel trigger which I'm a fan. Installed it today & it's set at 2.5oz. Ran tests with snap caps & was able to put a few rounds downrange. Worked just fine every time. I do like the flat trigger on it.
Same — ray sent me a new bolt body as well that is flawless. From notification of the issue (to Ray) to arrival of the new bolt body was 3 days. Excellent customer service.
Recently started shooting my RimX again, had Mike Manzella spin up 25” Ace 1.20. Other than the barrel everything is original from 6ish years ago, this thing runs and shoots like a Swiss watch. Since the rebarrel I’ve put maybe 2000 rounds through it, 2 competitions, not one hitch, nothing, an absolute pleasure to shoot.
Just out of curiosity, what chassis do you use? Mine is in a vision with some plastic tape in the mag well and runs perfect for many years as well.
MPA Vanquish, I’d originally had it in a Gen 1 MDT ACC with a Proof 22” comp contour, it ran fine just not as accurate as my Vudoo and not balanced correctly. This current config just rocks.
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Happy to report that my new RimX action is working smooth as butter now after about 200 rounds of Tenex down the pipe. If y’all remember the bolt was getting hung up in the action but now it glides like glass and shoots lights out with the PVA 24” barrel in 1/12 twist. She likes Eley Tenex and Lapua Center X.
Still waiting to get that Tenex from you!
Now that your RimX hammers with CntrXStill waiting to get that Tenex from you!
Oh hell yeah ! Now I know who it is !
Do the RIMX actions come with trigger pins? Or do I need to purchase some?
Also, are there any good videos on trigger mounting for it? I have found all the normal barrel mounting ones, but they usually show the action with the trigger already there. Same with action screws?
Is there a parts list anywhere for what actually is in the box? Action, magazine, assembled bolt, no-go gauge, .etc.
Trying to make sure I have all the parts ready to go.
Besides the vice and torque wrench and normal other tools, I have the scope and mount, MPA chassis, barrel, trigger, action wrench, action screws from MPA all sitting here waiting on the action.
Thanks
Also, are there any good videos on trigger mounting for it? I have found all the normal barrel mounting ones, but they usually show the action with the trigger already there. Same with action screws?
Is there a parts list anywhere for what actually is in the box? Action, magazine, assembled bolt, no-go gauge, .etc.
Trying to make sure I have all the parts ready to go.
Besides the vice and torque wrench and normal other tools, I have the scope and mount, MPA chassis, barrel, trigger, action wrench, action screws from MPA all sitting here waiting on the action.
Thanks
Yes, it will
In addition to the parts you listed, it will come with trigger pins and a small tube of grease.
Mine came with three of the four pic rail screws in a bag. There is also a card that lists torque specs.
It will be self evident, but in your excitement, don’t jam the action wrench in there without removing the ejector.
In addition to the parts you listed, it will come with trigger pins and a small tube of grease.
Mine came with three of the four pic rail screws in a bag. There is also a card that lists torque specs.
It will be self evident, but in your excitement, don’t jam the action wrench in there without removing the ejector.
Yes, it will
In addition to the parts you listed, it will come with trigger pins and a small tube of grease.
Mine came with three of the four pic rail screws in a bag. There is also a card that lists torque specs.
It will be self evident, but in your excitement, don’t jam the action wrench in there without removing the ejector.
You do not need to remove the ejector to install the barrel. Ive only installed 50+ barrels on my RimX and never removed the ejector once....
Ah. Well I’m not removing the barrel anytime soon, but I’ll try again to see if either I had my head up my ass or if the action wrench I used was not completely jiving (which would also support the head up the ass theory).
Thank you. Like doing renovations at home, I hate going back to Home Depot multiple times for the stupid things I didn’t get the time before, I prefer to have all the parts ready to go. Some of these pins and screws I don’t have spares. Yet.Yes, it will
In addition to the parts you listed, it will come with trigger pins and a small tube of grease.
Mine came with three of the four pic rail screws in a bag. There is also a card that lists torque specs.
It will be self evident, but in your excitement, don’t jam the action wrench in there without removing the ejector.
Just another month or so on the action.
@AndLovingIt et al-
For clarification: depending on your set up, you might have to remove the ejector.
That is with a Zermätt action wrench I received with an early model TL3 in a late model RimX. I snapped two pictures to show that the wrench’s ejector groove’s positioning is irrelevant.
I do not have all the info to determine what changed or make blanket authoritative statements, but I can determine 1) that (again) you might have to remove the ejector and 2) that sometime’s @padom’s poops actually do stink.
Good luck with your rifle’s assembly! It really is a sweet action.
For clarification: depending on your set up, you might have to remove the ejector.
That is with a Zermätt action wrench I received with an early model TL3 in a late model RimX. I snapped two pictures to show that the wrench’s ejector groove’s positioning is irrelevant.
I do not have all the info to determine what changed or make blanket authoritative statements, but I can determine 1) that (again) you might have to remove the ejector and 2) that sometime’s @padom’s poops actually do stink.
Good luck with your rifle’s assembly! It really is a sweet action.
Per Ray even with a standard rem 700 wrench the ejector should not be removed. He said this is a common mistake with the rimx. They have centerfire models that have to have the ejector removed but the ejctor on a rimx acts as a stop and forward of that doesnt have the support. That is from my conversations with Ray but i am also a random idiot on the i ternet and could be wrong.
There is a YouTube video from years ago that states you need to remove it. That also might lead to some confusion.
That makes a little bit of sense after viewing it from another angle. Isn’t the force still being applied through the ejection port, though?
And one would think if it were so important that the information would make it on the Ind card in the box.
Go figure…
And one would think if it were so important that the information would make it on the Ind card in the box.
Go figure…
No you don't. The action wrench is not supposed to go past the ejector..
Arguing about things your not fully knowledgeable about is a bad look then talking shit makes it even worse
@padom, please forgive me for saying your poop sometimes stinks. I was wrong.
Seeing both sides of the argument and not yet passing judgment, I’ll look for an engineer’s/Zermätt’s explanation of the differing forces applied to the action vis a vis the location of the action wrench. I must have missed it.
Seeing both sides of the argument and not yet passing judgment, I’ll look for an engineer’s/Zermätt’s explanation of the differing forces applied to the action vis a vis the location of the action wrench. I must have missed it.
This isnt an argument or debate. Zermatt has said NOT to remove the ejector. Ive had a RimX sent to me by Zermatt before its release serial #005 and Ive torque on over 50 barrels to date with Zermatts original action wrench. You can go back through this thread to see those results, they speak for themself....data doesnt lie
Its this simple, you remove the bolt, slide the action wrench in until it stops, torque to 35-50ft lbs and go shoot...
We aren't talking centerfire pressures, its a 22rimfire...
There is no differing forces applied. 50ft lbs is 50ft lbs.
I did get a couple new blanks but never chambered them. I have the new Criterion hand taper lapped blank at Manzella now. Will test thst one as soon as it comes back.
Last 2 barrels I tested were 1.2" Straight Manzella Krieger and a ACE and they hammered.
Where has Zermätt said this? I have not seen it in anything official from them. The closest thing is a post Tubby mentioned about a conversation he had with Ray. And Tubby even mentioned that there was a video that said TO remove the ejector. Looking at the action wrench, the coned recess could arguably be intended to slide over the breech…which would lead one to remove the ejector.
I’m not saying he or you are wrong, but how is someone to know NOT to remove the ejector outside a random forum post? I certainly did not.
Yes, 50 ft/lbs is 50 fit lbs. But is 50 torsional ft/lbs applied to a solid material the same as 50 torsional ft/lbs applied through a material with gaping holes (ie, ejection port and mag well) or applied with the support of an action wrench within those holes? Someone torquing on a barrel might wonder that.
That’s a hypothetical question; I neither know nor need to know the answer, but someone searching/reading might. All this is posed to show that someone should be forgiven for wondering if the ejector should be removed, especially seeing as how there seemingly is nothing official—at least not easy to find—from Zermätt.
So perhaps the fault is less than ideal communication/guidance from them?
Just found this from Ray. Up thread a ways. Post #1888 Page 38
“
To be honest, you should leave the ejector in the receiver when you use the action wrench and just stop when the wrench hits the ejector. It will have more lug engagement and torque will be absorbed better by the receiver.
Being that far away from the threads is acceptable since there is considerably less torque required in this area.
Thanks - Ray”
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Yes sir, our wrench works with all of our actions.
On the RimX, you do not need to remove anything other than the bolt to use the wrench. If you remove the ejector on the RimX, you'll have almost no purchase on the raceway lugs of the receiver when you use it.
Thank you,
Ray Heusinkvelt
Zermatt Arms / ZAI
402-782-2884
When Michael Manzella sent my Kreiger to Aus., I wanted to make sure I was using the Zermatt wrench correctly - Ray sent me this email when I contacted him for guidance.
On the RimX, you do not need to remove anything other than the bolt to use the wrench. If you remove the ejector on the RimX, you'll have almost no purchase on the raceway lugs of the receiver when you use it.
Thank you,
Ray Heusinkvelt
Zermatt Arms / ZAI
402-782-2884
When Michael Manzella sent my Kreiger to Aus., I wanted to make sure I was using the Zermatt wrench correctly - Ray sent me this email when I contacted him for guidance.
What is wrong with you guys, why can’t you listen to @padom in this case and just stop the nonsense?
None of us who have a RimX for a long time have ever removed the ejector to change a barrel.
I don’t even use a torque wrench.
If you think you need to remove the ejector, just do it and shut up….. please.
None of us who have a RimX for a long time have ever removed the ejector to change a barrel.
I don’t even use a torque wrench.
If you think you need to remove the ejector, just do it and shut up….. please.
As has been copied from multiple forms of communication from me to different individuals, you should NOT remove the ejector in the RimX when using an internal action wrench.
All of the engagement between the raceways in the receiver and the lugs of the action wrench will be lost if the internal action wrench is inserted past the ejector. You don't want to spin an action wrench sideways in a receiver while installing or removing your barrel. If you do, you could destroy the receiver.
It's not been a common enough question to add it to any literature but maybe now we've got to.
Thanks - Ray
All of the engagement between the raceways in the receiver and the lugs of the action wrench will be lost if the internal action wrench is inserted past the ejector. You don't want to spin an action wrench sideways in a receiver while installing or removing your barrel. If you do, you could destroy the receiver.
It's not been a common enough question to add it to any literature but maybe now we've got to.
Thanks - Ray
Since I don’t have mine in hand yet, (Waiting patiently) I am using this thread as a “manual”. It is really interesting seeing the evolution of the platform. Reading from the first page to the last shows the effort you and others (@padom and other early adopters) have put into making it a success. I truly appreciate the effort all of them have put in. I have learned an immense amount.
If I have a vote, I would really like a complete manual that shows how to do everything. Yes, YouTube videos are great, but we don’t know if the person making them truly knows what they are doing. I am old school in that I like to RTFM. It gives me a way of evaluating the correctness of any videos I find. It also can give details that other mediums can’t. More info is better if it is coming from the source.
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