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I have the MDT ACC, MPA Competition, XLR Envy JV Pro Heavy Fill, and a KMW Sentinel. The ACC is my favorite followed closely by the Sentinel. Chassis/stock seems to be very subjective so if you have the resources available try to get behind everything you can. Decide what features are important to you and then you can go from there.
 
I use an Oryx chassis that I tried with the b14r first. It didn’t work with it because of feeding issues, in short the mag doesn’t stay up in front on the Bergara.
The RimX works perfect in my oryx, the mags are of different outer dimensions and adjustable.
They offer a arca rail that fits perfect and mounted to a tripod the rifle is slightly nose heavy with my 20“ keystone m24 contour GB barrel.
 
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So as I wait patiently for my barreled action to arrive, I've been shopping around for chassis/stocks to house this bad boy. I'm quite interested in a Foundation; they are beautiful and sounds like good people to work with, but 1300 bucks is alot of cheddar. Same goes with Manners, McMillan, MDT, MPA etc. On the other side of the spectrum (price wise), the KRG bravo has caught my eye. Who has experience with one? How well does the rifle balance? I'll be running a 20" M24 contour for weight referance. Will I be happy with a bravo, or will I have wished I saved more nickels and dimes for one of the "top tier" chassis/stocks?

Went through this thought process as well over last few days, decided on the Bravo and the miraculously there was a pimped Bravo in the PX that was available. Pulled the trigger. Big fan of KRG in general. I have one of their whiskey's chassis for a shorty 6.5cm, exceeded expectations.

I've shot behind a bravo several times but never owned one directly, and it is a big bang for the buck on comfort and customizability.

In short, I'll guess that you'll be happy with the Bravo.
 
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The bravo's are hard to beat for the price. I like them and will be putting a couple rim x builds in them. I like the nicer chassis but even the xlr's end up at 700 ish bucks after i put the buttstock and grip I want on them where the bravo is 400 total after a few accessories I add to them. I know its not a HUGE difference but for a 22lr I have a hard time spending the extra $. And to be honest a prefer the look and feel of a more traditional stock. The bravo kinda meets in the middle.
 
@padom thanks for all the good info, as always! The closest thing I've gotten to handle that resembles a chassis is my father's Ruger Prec. rimfire. I know that's probably not a great comparison, but closest reference I have. I'll look into the XLR's. However, the reason I was leaning towards more the bravo or foundation is because I like the feel and look (I know, petty) of a stock. But...like I said I haven't really handled any chassis systems, so maybe I'd feel differently with one in my hands.
I like my Bravo, this was originally on my Vudoo.
 

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+1 for the Bravo, great chassis with the look and feel of a full stock. Some folks are bothered by the fitment (slightly misaligned on some of the where the front and rear halves meet, but it never bothered me.
 
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For those of you who have the Bravo, how does the rifle balance? I'm worried it may nose heavy with a 20" m24, arca rail and bipod? Does anyone have a picture where the halves are misaligned like @45ACP223 is referring to?
 
For those of you who have the Bravo, how does the rifle balance? I'm worried it may nose heavy with a 20" m24, arca rail and bipod? Does anyone have a picture where the halves are misaligned like @45ACP223 is referring to?

Posted this above but here it is again plus another.
 

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For those of you who have the Bravo, how does the rifle balance? I'm worried it may nose heavy with a 20" m24, arca rail and bipod? Does anyone have a picture where the halves are misaligned like @45ACP223 is referring to?
I have the bravo on a couple rifles there are places to stash weight in the rear of the stock. I have three 1/2 bull plugs wrapped with tape to make a tight fit to help add weight in the stock along with the heavy lop spacer sold by krg.
 

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I've never fired this rifle with a tuner until just a few days ago. All of the previous 4,000+ rounds documented in this thread and on instagram were without a tuner.

I don't care for shooting paper targets beyond 50yds with a 22lr due to the environmental effects having such a large impact on performance. Having said that, I've spent time at 75, 100, 125, 150, 175, 200, and 300yds with this rifle. To date, performance at extended ranges in acceptable conditions has produced results every bit as good as I've seen up close. So at 100yds I'm getting groups from the .3's to .6's relatively easy. Yet, it's so wildly affected by the tiniest imperceptible twitch in the wind... it just isn't something I'm excited to talk about. Just the other day I shot a 6x5 at 100yds that would take the #1 spot with room to spare. Doesn't mean I don't have fun doing it, because I do. It's important to me that our rimfires be able to stretch their legs. Maybe I'll start showcasing some 100yd performance in the future. I'll have to think it over a bit.

I'll attempt to placate you with a demonstration from today, when I was doing a product demo for www.targethangingsolutions.com on their rimfire prairie dog target. P-dog was at 125yds and I put 5 shots inside a dime, CTC. This is not unusual for this rifle, but quite normal, and very expected.




good shooting, how did you get the wind to stop over there? lol

was it the same ammo you've been shooting?
idahoorion
 
So as I wait patiently for my barreled action to arrive, I've been shopping around for chassis/stocks to house this bad boy. I'm quite interested in a Foundation; they are beautiful and sounds like good people to work with, but 1300 bucks is alot of cheddar. Same goes with Manners, McMillan, MDT, MPA etc. On the other side of the spectrum (price wise), the KRG bravo has caught my eye. Who has experience with one? How well does the rifle balance? I'll be running a 20" M24 contour for weight referance. Will I be happy with a bravo, or will I have wished I saved more nickels and dimes for one of the "top tier" chassis/stocks?
6D474415-B995-4910-9E9E-7F34AC2CF5E1.jpeg

Ive mine weighing a little over 17 pounds and balancing right in front of the barricade stop. Theres plenty of spaces to add weight to get it balanced where you want. For the money these are pretty nice. Give PDC Custom a look also. Lots of features for the price...
 
Smudging up my newly received lefty I am impressed, Trigger is on it's way, and the barrel order at Keystone for a couple of weeks....

my question regards the action wrench. I have a rear entry wrench that will slide in fine. looks like the farthest in I should go is to the ejector blade, about 1/2 way in the action.?

I do have the wrap around bolt together wrench as well, but prefer the rear action wrench as I don't have to take the rail off etc. Don't want to damage the action with it not being fully forward.

thanks
Idahoorion
 
Smudging up my newly received lefty I am impressed, Trigger is on it's way, and the barrel order at Keystone for a couple of weeks....

my question regards the action wrench. I have a rear entry wrench that will slide in fine. looks like the farthest in I should go is to the ejector blade, about 1/2 way in the action.?

I do have the wrap around bolt together wrench as well, but prefer the rear action wrench as I don't have to take the rail off etc. Don't want to damage the action with it not being fully forward.

thanks
Idahoorion

You'll be fine.
 
Several comments state Vudoo magazines work in a RimX action but is the bullet treated as gently as with a RimX magazine?
 
Smudging up my newly received lefty I am impressed, Trigger is on it's way, and the barrel order at Keystone for a couple of weeks....

my question regards the action wrench. I have a rear entry wrench that will slide in fine. looks like the farthest in I should go is to the ejector blade, about 1/2 way in the action.?

I do have the wrap around bolt together wrench as well, but prefer the rear action wrench as I don't have to take the rail off etc. Don't want to damage the action with it not being fully forward.

thanks
Idahoorion

I don’t have a Bighorn specific action wrench with the slot cut in it for the ejector. The wrench I use is solid and I only slide it in to where it stops at the ejector (rear of action) since I don’t like dealing with the small Allen screw holding in the ejector. I’ve used the wrench like this to tighten my TL3’s and my RimX without any issues. I am just snugging the barrel to the action Without a torque wrench.
 
In my experience, no. The adjustable height mag stop isn't a nice feature. It's a necessity. The RimX mag needs to be seated as high as possible against the bottom of the action to present the bullet. Rounds are presented more horizontally in the RimX than the Vudoo. When the round pops out of the feedlips and snaps up on the bolt face the rim isn't fully seated under the extractor. The bullet nose enters the chamber. At this point the entire round is tilted nose up with the case teeter-tottering on the bottom lip of the chamber. It's at this point that a Vudoo mag will be harder on the bullet. The case rim needs the nose of the bullet to be pushed downward by the chamber, leveraging the case wall against the bottom of the chamber mouth, and thus pushing the rim up under the extractor and righting the entire round into a fully horizontal attitude. When I tried a Vudoo mag it fed roughly and the ejected rounds were scratched up. Will a Vudoo mag feed? Yes. Will the additional scarring effect accuracy? I didn't test it, so I don't know. Perhaps if you were using a an MPA adjustable mag latch you could minimize the roughness.
I made exactly the same observations with my RimX, the only thing I would add is if you run the bolt a little slower on close it happened numerous times to me that the rim will not go under the extractor. The bolt will not close by extractor Design if this happens and the cartridge is stuck in the chamber.
 
In my experience, no. The adjustable height mag stop isn't a nice feature. It's a necessity. The RimX mag needs to be seated as high as possible against the bottom of the action to present the bullet. Rounds are presented more horizontally in the RimX than the Vudoo. When the round pops out of the feedlips and snaps up on the bolt face the rim isn't fully seated under the extractor. The bullet nose enters the chamber. At this point the entire round is tilted nose up with the case teeter-tottering on the bottom lip of the chamber. It's at this point that a Vudoo mag will be harder on the bullet. The case rim needs the nose of the bullet to be pushed downward by the chamber, leveraging the case wall against the bottom of the chamber mouth, and thus pushing the rim up under the extractor and righting the entire round into a fully horizontal attitude. When I tried a Vudoo mag it fed roughly and the ejected rounds were scratched up. Will a Vudoo mag feed? Yes. Will the additional scarring effect accuracy? I didn't test it, so I don't know. Perhaps if you were using a an MPA adjustable mag latch you could minimize the roughness.
@reubenski:

Many thanks. My question wasn't in pursuit of cheapicity but functionality. I prefer shooting standing offhand with my support arm tightly against my chest. That means some part of your support hand palm must be on the bottom of the magazine for a Vudoo. Presume the same is true for the RimX. Doable for the 10 round polymer mag in a Vudoo but the Al 5 shot mag much nicer and much closer to my CF rifle with a 5 shot Accurate Mag. But no deal breaker, will order a RimX and hope for a 5 shot mag later.
 
The RimX mag weighs 8 oz without the 5rd extension. When I was picking components for my second RimX I was trying to keep the weight down and really wished for a lighter, perhaps even smaller mag like Vudoo's. You go through the effort to pick svelte, nicely matched components and then you have this honkin brick hanging off your underpinning. I may try a Vudoo mag again with this second setup. I'll likely use a looser reamer, perhaps a looser chamber will be more tolerant of the plastic mag. I might even see if I can get my gunsmith to convert the mag latch on my bottom metal to an adjustable version like MPA's.
For a looser reamer with many titles under its belt you might want to try the win 52D reamer or the Bentz reamer (aimed towards semi autos).
As for the Vudoo mags there was a post that showed how to modify the slop in the mags with some sort of material/spacer added to the front and rear of the Vudoo mag which would eliminate slop and make it ride higher. Modifying the latch might be the best option.
 
I don’t have a Bighorn specific action wrench with the slot cut in it for the ejector. The wrench I use is solid and I only slide it in to where it stops at the ejector (rear of action) since I don’t like dealing with the small Allen screw holding in the ejector. I’ve used the wrench like this to tighten my TL3’s and my RimX without any issues. I am just snugging the barrel to the action Without a torque wrench.
padom and lawrence 97 thank you!
 
The wait starts today, just ordered a RimX with a Green Mountain barrel from Keystone Accuracy.
I think it’s going to look sexy in this.
Manners T2A Team already set up for an Acra rail. Stock coated by Custom Gun Coatings aka shortbus.
View attachment 7336580

Apparently the guy on the tv likes the look of the stock, his mouth is wide open and he is taking a picture of it...

nice looking stock
 
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Repost of my 6x5 submission today.

I finally had a decent condition. One of the first times this spring I've had the wind this steady. Wind was barely tugging 2-5mph, but had a nice steady wide pace to the changes in intensity... and I cranked off 6 good groups with one absolute stunner. Might be the smallest group I've shot to date with a rimfire. Best news... I shot it on camera. This tuner has pulled a solid tenth of an inch out of my group size, on average.

Distance - 50yds
Ammo - RWS R50

.192
.152
.145
.119
.009
.151
6x5 with an average of 0.128".

Here's the rifle:


Here's the target:


Here's the video:
 
Repost of my 6x5 submission today.

I finally had a decent condition. One of the first times this spring I've had the wind this steady. Wind was barely tugging 2-5mph, but had a nice steady wide pace to the changes in intensity... and I cranked off 6 good groups with one absolute stunner. Might be the smallest group I've shot to date with a rimfire. Best news... I shot it on camera. This tuner has pulled a solid tenth of an inch out of my group size, on average.

Distance - 50yds
Ammo - RWS R50

.192
.152
.145
.119
.009
.151
6x5 with an average of 0.128".

Here's the rifle:


Here's the target:


Here's the video:

How are you measuring your groups? Something doesn't look right. For example, on the second group from the left it appears that the top and bottom bullet holes wouldn't overlap at all. Wouldn't that mean the group would have to be at least a .22? Am I missing something?
 
How are you measuring your groups? Something doesn't look right. For example, on the second group from the left it appears that the top and bottom bullet holes wouldn't overlap at all. Wouldn't that mean the group would have to be at least a .22? Am I missing something?
It all depends if you are measuring edge to edge or center to center.
 
It all depends if you are measuring edge to edge or center to center.
How would that change anything? If you measure edge to edge then you subtract one bullet diameter obviously. Measuring edge to edge and then subtracting a bullet diameter is the best method if using calipers.
 
How are you measuring your groups? Something doesn't look right. For example, on the second group from the left it appears that the top and bottom bullet holes wouldn't overlap at all. Wouldn't that mean the group would have to be at least a .22? Am I missing something?
Edge to edge minus .22 (diameter of bullet) if I'm not mistaken
 
Obviously. So my point is, if 2 bullet holes don't overlap the group has to be larger than .22.
My apologies, I was typing while you responded. While this is being discussed, how accurate are apps such as ballistic-x? Is there a "standard" when measuring groups elsewhere? It appears the 6×5 is all in good fun, I'm not trying to evoke anything, especially something I know very little about.
 
My apologies, I was typing while you responded. While this is being discussed, how accurate are apps such as ballistic-x? Is there a "standard" when measuring groups elsewhere? It appears the 6×5 is all in good fun, I'm not trying to evoke anything, especially something I know very little about.
I'm not trying to stir anything up either. Orkan's groups are amazing. It was just the first thought that popped into my head when I looked at the groups and the numbers that were written beside them.
 
Got my KSA GM barrel today!
20" M-24 contour.
Torqued it on my action and dropped it back in the MPA chassis and off to the range after work.
Re-zeroed the Leupold Mark 5 3.6-18x44 at 50 yards, prone off bi-pod & rear bag with the CCI SV, then started shooting 5 shot groups.
Fired 200 rounds, 50 each of CCI SV, Aguila SE, Aguila Pistol Match, and Norma TAC22.
I can honestly say this barrel does not seem to like any of this ammo whatsoever. 5 Round groups fired at 50 yards were about 5/8" to 1 1/4".
Maybe I need a few hundred more rounds down the tube before I start to develop an opinion of the barrel, but my first outing was kind of disappointing.
I have some various SK, Eley, and Lapua that I plan on testing with this barrel, but I think I need more rounds down the pipe before I do serious testing.

I have a Lothar Walther barrel arriving tomorrow too!

Love this Rim-X!
 
Got my KSA GM barrel today!
20" M-24 contour.
Torqued it on my action and dropped it back in the MPA chassis and off to the range after work.
Re-zeroed the Leupold Mark 5 3.6-18x44 at 50 yards, prone off bi-pod & rear bag with the CCI SV, then started shooting 5 shot groups.
Fired 200 rounds, 50 each of CCI SV, Aguila SE, Aguila Pistol Match, and Norma TAC22.
I can honestly say this barrel does not seem to like any of this ammo whatsoever. 5 Round groups fired at 50 yards were about 5/8" to 1 1/4".
Maybe I need a few hundred more rounds down the tube before I start to develop an opinion of the barrel, but my first outing was kind of disappointing.
I have some various SK, Eley, and Lapua that I plan on testing with this barrel, but I think I need more rounds down the pipe before I do serious testing.

I have a Lothar Walther barrel arriving tomorrow too!

Love this Rim-X!
From the ammo you tested, none of it is known for accuracy (Sometimes CCI SV works). It’s a step above Walmart bulk packs. At the bare minimum feed it some SK and make an accuracy assessment. Eley and Lapua should show you the potential of your new barrel.
 
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How many rounds should I get through the new barrel before I should start accuracy testing ammo?
I fired about 500 through my Proof CF barrel before it started to settle down in terms of accuracy. It shoots all the stuff I tested half MOA at 50 yards now. I realize it is crap ammo I used on the GM barrel to start, but I thought I needed to season/break in the barrel before getting serious.
 
How many rounds should I get through the new barrel before I should start accuracy testing ammo?
I fired about 500 through my Proof CF barrel before it started to settle down in terms of accuracy. It shoots all the stuff I tested half MOA at 50 yards now. I realize it is crap ammo I used on the GM barrel to start, but I thought I needed to season/break in the barrel before getting serious.
Your Proof Carbon Fiber barrel shoots all those types of ammo into .25" groups at 50 yards?
 
I start testing immediately. The good ammo should shoot tight to begin with and only get better as you put more rounds through it. After shooting that cheap stuff I’d probably clean with one wet and one dry patch and shoot the better stuff.
 
Your Proof Carbon Fiber barrel shoots all those types of ammo into .25" groups at 50 yards?

My fingers typed something my brain wasn't thinking, sorry.
I meant to say my Proof CF shoots those types of ammunition MOA at 50 yards, that is one half inch or a little better.
 
Obviously. So my point is, if 2 bullet holes don't overlap the group has to be larger than .22.
*sigh*
Paper sometimes behaves weird when you shoot it on the edge of an existing hole. Anyone that's shot any paper competition can tell you it's not always as straight forward as it would seem. Not sure what to tell you other than I put a mitutoyo caliper to these groups the best I could. If you don't believe it, petition to have my fake internet points taken away. I know what I shot, and that's all that matters to me. The inner black ring on those targets is .500" O.D. So, its almost impossible for a group to fit inside that ring, and not touch/overlap.

I have nearly 6,000 rounds through this rifle in the last couple months. I probably have 4,000 rounds through various other 22lr's since march of this year. I have several thousand documented rounds on paper with this rifle, at least 2000 of those rounds streamed LIVE as I shot them. If someone wants to question me at this point... I guess I don't have any response.

Here's two bullets laid over that group. I sure don't see any of it sticking out. It's all under, and by a good margin. This is the last time I'll entertain anyone questioning my measurements. It's suppose to be fun... and this really isn't. If someone's that concerned, I guess we'll need to be shooting at the same place and same time and measure each others targets.

 
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*sigh*
Paper sometimes behaves weird when you shoot it on the edge of an existing hole. Anyone that's shot any paper competition can tell you it's not always as straight forward as it would seem. Not sure what to tell you other than I put a mitutoyo caliper to these groups the best I could. If you don't believe it, petition to have my fake internet points taken away. I know what I shot, and that's all that matters to me. The inner black ring on those targets is .500" O.D. So, its almost impossible for a group to fit inside that ring, and not touch/overlap.

I have nearly 6,000 rounds through this rifle in the last couple months. I probably have 4,000 rounds through various other 22lr's since march of this year. I have several thousand documented rounds on paper with this rifle, at least 2000 of those rounds streamed LIVE as I shot them. If someone wants to question me at this point... I guess I don't have any response.

Here's two bullets laid over that group. I sure don't see any of it sticking out. It's all under, and by a good margin. This is the last time I'll entertain anyone questioning my measurements. It's suppose to be fun... and this really isn't. If someone's that concerned, I guess we'll need to be shooting at the same place and same time and measure each others targets.

@orkan before you loose your cool with me let me say that i'm in awe of your shooting - I've studied the videos you have posted to see what i can learn :)
However @Mordamer has a point. Many people appear to have a systematic error when measuring targets with calipers. As you say different 'papers' react differently and i suspect this is the underlying problem. I suspect that many people are measuring outside-outside "correctly" but are then subtracting a nominal bullet diameter of 0.224" - this will often be incorrect. One should (to be pedantically correct) subtract the hole size that you get in the target paper that you are using - in your case it looks like this would be closer to 0.17". This would give answers much closer to what you get measuring the targets with something like Ballistic-X or TDS.
As @Mordamer pointed out there is a very easy sanity check - two bullet holes that just touch should give 0.22" and if they are not touching they cant be less than 0.22".
In any case, end of pedantry - as @orkan wrote the 6x5 is meant to be relaxed fun. And he does document what he does better than the rest of us ! (if we disagree with his numbers we can just measure them to suit ourselves :eek:).
 
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I subtract.222, as that is the diameter of a 22lr bullet. The pic of the bullets covering the group should put to rest any question on whether the holes would overlap. The edges of the bullet smears on paper are pretty well defined.
 
I subtract.222, as that is the diameter of a 22lr bullet. The pic of the bullets covering the group should put to rest any question on whether the holes would overlap. The edges of the bullet smears on paper are pretty well defined.
You missed his point. Find a clean bullet hole and measure edge to edge on just that hole. Whatever a clean hole measures is what you should subtract from your edge to edge measurement on a group.

Looking at your target with bullets laid on top it is obvious that the bullet holes are smaller than the diameter of a bullet.
 
You missed his point. Find a clean bullet holes and measure edge to edge on just that hole. Whatever a clean hole measures is what you should subtract from your edge to edge measurement on a group.
No, I didn't miss his point. ... and don't worry @barronian I'm not going to lose my cool at you. lol

I measure edge of smear... not edge of hole. However, here you go. So the smear is twelve thousandths off on that one...



Anyway... I don't really care. Measure the targets yourselves... tell @jbell to update the scores based on what you get. I'm not going to stop until I have 5 groups in the 0's anyway, so this target doesn't mean anything.

The only part of this that's on topic: I dare someone to claim RimX actions don't shoot.
 
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