Chrome, my bet is you had a tight chamber. When the case stuck was it difficult to extract by hand also? I played around with chamber size years ago with a different action but it was very drastic what a super small change made…
You may have mentioned it, but did you ever try to polish the chamber of the problem barrel?
You may have mentioned it, but did you ever try to polish the chamber of the problem barrel?
My guess as well. I do not think the smith did anything new to the chamber when I sent it in to have it set back. At the time when I was having the malfunctions I didn't have the nifty .22lr tools to easily pop the rounds out of the chamber so I had to cleaning rod them out from the muzzle.
I did not try to polish anything myself on the problematic barrel
Can you say what the problem was without implicating anyone? Just curious, but I understand why you may not want to say.
Let me just say that Chrome PM'd me and we seem to have agreed what the problem was.
Campers I could use some help getting my RimX bolt back together. I disassembled/cleaned/lubed/re-assembled the bolt and experienced a number of ignition failures after re-assembly; more failures with Eley than with SK Match which makes me think I screwed the firing pin bolt too far back?
PrimalRights YT Video references a divot on the fp rod that needs to be timed with the port housing two set screws. I do see a slight divot on the fp rod threads but I'm not sure if it's from the factory or from my prior re-assembly with the set screws. I'm having a difficult time seeing that divot through the port housing the two set screws.
Anyone have tips/tricks/guidance on a framework to ensure successful re-install of the fp rod/spring into the cocking piece?
tia
PrimalRights YT Video references a divot on the fp rod that needs to be timed with the port housing two set screws. I do see a slight divot on the fp rod threads but I'm not sure if it's from the factory or from my prior re-assembly with the set screws. I'm having a difficult time seeing that divot through the port housing the two set screws.
Anyone have tips/tricks/guidance on a framework to ensure successful re-install of the fp rod/spring into the cocking piece?
tia
I have not done it enough to help. But I would call Ray now and see if he can help before close of business. 402-782-2884
Mark the divot with a silver sharpie. Then you can see it better when you’re trying to line it back up.
I used whiteout on the divot and an indicator mark on the end of the rod that pops out from the bolt shroud; super helpful. Testing tomorrow, will circle back.
Ray (Zermatt) suggested threading the rod until you can't thread no more and then back it off 7/8"-1". Between Rays' guidance and the whiteout I think I'm on the right track.
Much thanks!
The other day I took my bolt out to clean the rifle and it litterely fell apart when I pulled it out of the action. As in the front part (where it locks into the action when you close it - sorry, don't know the name) and the firing pin along with it. I got it back together, but that does not seem right?
The bolt nose rotates within the bolt body (the front and rear pieces). There is a pair of notches that must be lined up to allow those parts to separate or go back together.
Nothing unusual there. It actually is really nice for cleaning that you don’t need any tools to disassemble the bolt for cleaning. You can also remove the firing pin within seconds for dry firing (pin out and you can dry fire to your heart’s content).
Nothing unusual there. It actually is really nice for cleaning that you don’t need any tools to disassemble the bolt for cleaning. You can also remove the firing pin within seconds for dry firing (pin out and you can dry fire to your heart’s content).
Ran 40 rounds each of SK Match & Eley Team w/o a single ftf; looks like I got the firing pin bolt timed correctly. @drglock much thanks for the witness mark suggestion, that was key to the re-assembly. Much thanks to Ray @Zermatt with the phone-a-friend for the win.
Anyone want a little group porn? I’m shooting a center fire (gasp!) match this weekend in Alabama. I received a new to me PDC custom chassis yesterday, and just had to get some rimfire shooting in before heading out of town. I stopped at my local range to send a few rounds using this new chassis, and it was a delight. I have seen unsubstantiated criticism of the bedding system in the PDC Custom chassis, and I am happy to report my sample of one hammers. I plan to take my CZ 457 MTR rifle and my manners and PDC custom chassis to shoot the same action across all 3 one day soon to further validate my observations.
I was shooting an existing target that was set at the 50 yard line, and the three groups side by side were the first three out of the gun today. No warm up. No cold bore flier. I sent the next 20 down at 215, and those were amazing too. I did not hang around to go take pictures of those, but did of the close ones.
Stats - 24” Hart barrel chambered by Elemental Industries with Ian’s bolt hold open mod. MODX bolt modification by Modacam. Nightforce ATACR 7-35. And a PDC Custom chassis. SK Long Range Match was shot today using a thunder beast arms bipod and mini fortune cookie for a rear bag.
I was shooting an existing target that was set at the 50 yard line, and the three groups side by side were the first three out of the gun today. No warm up. No cold bore flier. I sent the next 20 down at 215, and those were amazing too. I did not hang around to go take pictures of those, but did of the close ones.
Stats - 24” Hart barrel chambered by Elemental Industries with Ian’s bolt hold open mod. MODX bolt modification by Modacam. Nightforce ATACR 7-35. And a PDC Custom chassis. SK Long Range Match was shot today using a thunder beast arms bipod and mini fortune cookie for a rear bag.
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Picked up a second action for a build and it had the bolt lug shaving issue. Contacted Ray and he shipped me out a new bolt immediately that fixed the problem. I continue to love this platform...
I would sell all of my other rimfires and keep my rimxs if I had to. Now, I would shed some tears when the CZs and Kidds were gone. But the Rimx takes the top spot for me too.
Lucked on a RimX with a 24" Hart barrel & EC tuner with 2 mags. Couldn't resist it. Dropped it in a MDT XRS chassis with a Jewel 1.5 oz trigger & a DiscoveryOPT 5-25 FFP scope. Still trying to research action screws torque settings. MDT says use mfr settings & I can't find that info yet. Right now I have front set at 55 inch lbs & rear at 45. Any higher on the rear and the trigger won't work. 2 targets testing the settings SK LR & Eley SemiAuto BR ammo 5 shot groups at 50 yards.
Action screw torque on a RimX is going to be stock/chassis dependant.
Tested this heavily on XLR Envy Pro chassis and zero difference with different Action screw torque settings.
If your trigger doesnt work because you torqued over 55in lbs you have a bigger issue...
This is why I love the BnA triggers, 3 different sears for optimal sear engagement with your action...
I need to read up on the Bix sears. There was a guy I was squadded with and his was giving him fits. Apparently he needed a low shelf and had a high. He was having a bad day.
So all RimX actions prior to i believe serial# 3000 needed a low sear in their bna trigger..
Ray confirmed zermatt standardized the bna sear across all their actions to a medium bna sear...
@Zermatt Arms
Ray can you confirm what serial # zermatt standardized bna triggers to the medium sear???
Well poo. I ordered a low sear thinking that’s what I needed for a not yet delivered RimX. I have an extra I can swap.
The low sear in the TL3 feels different than others when set at same 1st and 2nd stage weights. Hardly any over travel. I need to investigate it
The low sear in the TL3 feels different than others when set at same 1st and 2nd stage weights. Hardly any over travel. I need to investigate it
Anything after R03000 will be good to go with the medium sear but should also work with the low sear.
If there's a question as to what would work in a specific system, we'd just need to see a picture of the back of the cocking piece to determine what will work best in that system. If you've got an older revision of the cocking piece that sits deeper on the trigger sear and are experiencing ignition issues, we'll be happy to coordinate replacing that to the current revision to mitigate any of those issues.
Thank you - Ray
If there's a question as to what would work in a specific system, we'd just need to see a picture of the back of the cocking piece to determine what will work best in that system. If you've got an older revision of the cocking piece that sits deeper on the trigger sear and are experiencing ignition issues, we'll be happy to coordinate replacing that to the current revision to mitigate any of those issues.
Thank you - Ray
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