Chrome, my bet is you had a tight chamber. When the case stuck was it difficult to extract by hand also? I played around with chamber size years ago with a different action but it was very drastic what a super small change made…
You may have mentioned it, but did you ever try to polish the chamber of the problem barrel?
You may have mentioned it, but did you ever try to polish the chamber of the problem barrel?
My guess as well. I do not think the smith did anything new to the chamber when I sent it in to have it set back. At the time when I was having the malfunctions I didn't have the nifty .22lr tools to easily pop the rounds out of the chamber so I had to cleaning rod them out from the muzzle.
I did not try to polish anything myself on the problematic barrel
Can you say what the problem was without implicating anyone? Just curious, but I understand why you may not want to say.
Let me just say that Chrome PM'd me and we seem to have agreed what the problem was.
Campers I could use some help getting my RimX bolt back together. I disassembled/cleaned/lubed/re-assembled the bolt and experienced a number of ignition failures after re-assembly; more failures with Eley than with SK Match which makes me think I screwed the firing pin bolt too far back?
PrimalRights YT Video references a divot on the fp rod that needs to be timed with the port housing two set screws. I do see a slight divot on the fp rod threads but I'm not sure if it's from the factory or from my prior re-assembly with the set screws. I'm having a difficult time seeing that divot through the port housing the two set screws.
Anyone have tips/tricks/guidance on a framework to ensure successful re-install of the fp rod/spring into the cocking piece?
tia
PrimalRights YT Video references a divot on the fp rod that needs to be timed with the port housing two set screws. I do see a slight divot on the fp rod threads but I'm not sure if it's from the factory or from my prior re-assembly with the set screws. I'm having a difficult time seeing that divot through the port housing the two set screws.
Anyone have tips/tricks/guidance on a framework to ensure successful re-install of the fp rod/spring into the cocking piece?
tia
I have not done it enough to help. But I would call Ray now and see if he can help before close of business. 402-782-2884
Mark the divot with a silver sharpie. Then you can see it better when you’re trying to line it back up.
I used whiteout on the divot and an indicator mark on the end of the rod that pops out from the bolt shroud; super helpful. Testing tomorrow, will circle back.
Ray (Zermatt) suggested threading the rod until you can't thread no more and then back it off 7/8"-1". Between Rays' guidance and the whiteout I think I'm on the right track.
Much thanks!
The other day I took my bolt out to clean the rifle and it litterely fell apart when I pulled it out of the action. As in the front part (where it locks into the action when you close it - sorry, don't know the name) and the firing pin along with it. I got it back together, but that does not seem right?
The bolt nose rotates within the bolt body (the front and rear pieces). There is a pair of notches that must be lined up to allow those parts to separate or go back together.
Nothing unusual there. It actually is really nice for cleaning that you don’t need any tools to disassemble the bolt for cleaning. You can also remove the firing pin within seconds for dry firing (pin out and you can dry fire to your heart’s content).
Nothing unusual there. It actually is really nice for cleaning that you don’t need any tools to disassemble the bolt for cleaning. You can also remove the firing pin within seconds for dry firing (pin out and you can dry fire to your heart’s content).
Ran 40 rounds each of SK Match & Eley Team w/o a single ftf; looks like I got the firing pin bolt timed correctly. @drglock much thanks for the witness mark suggestion, that was key to the re-assembly. Much thanks to Ray @Zermatt with the phone-a-friend for the win.
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