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Thanks for the link. Wish I hadn't said anything, now I want one. Especially after using the Harrell tuner and seeing first hand how good they work. I like this one because I can also use my Sparrow. I'd also be very interested in seeing what results are to be had with this ATS tuner.

No problem. I have one but i'm clearly not in the know of how to use it so i'm having a hard time setting it up
 
Well I'm most certainly not a tuner knowledgably person by any means. I would only want that tuner because a suppressor could be installed. I believe if a suppressor was used the person would have to keep a close eye on the weight, or carbon build up in the suppressor. What are your thoughts...or anyone's thoughts?
 
CF, maybe. RF, I wouldn't let it get to that point. When I have gunk falling back down the barrel I clean my can. I don't want to have to clean a RF can with that much buildup.

Have you seen any accuracy changes from before clean, to clean, to fouled???


I have to admit, I havent cleaned my Oculus in many thousand of rounds and it still shoots tiny little groups and no issues hitting steel out to 400....

I do bang the can on my bench before screwing it on to knock any of the loose junk out. There is always some but not a ton.
 
No. It's not about accuracy. It's about the suppressor shedding gunk down the barrel and how involved it's going to be cleaning a really gunked up suppressor. I had an Ultra 7 for two years, occasionally soaking it for 12hrs in CLR. I thought I was doing a decent job of cleaning it. I didn't have any accuracy problems. Then I was getting ready for the Hornady Hunter match and was trying to meet the weight limit. I calculated 10oz for my suppressor. But when I weighed it, 16oz. I ended up soaking it for a week to get it back down to 10.5oz. You also don't want to soak a rimfire can with aluminum baffles in CLR too long. So how dirty do you want to let it get? I now coat my baffles in silicone grease and clean frequently. Its a breeze to clean and doesn't shed into my barrel.

What silicone grease product are you soaking your baffles in? I'm fully aware about cleaning, I was wondering if you have seen noticeable accuracy changes between dirty, clean....I had horrible accuracy when I cleaned mine and took some rounds to tighten back up.
 
No problem. I have one but i'm clearly not in the know of how to use it so i'm having a hard time setting it up
The premise of it seems pretty simple. Slide it over your muzzle, use a suppressor or a brake to mash it against the shoulder behind the threads, turn to desired setting.

I'm sure if you gave them a call they could help you with setup.
 
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No problem. I have one but i'm clearly not in the know of how to use it so i'm having a hard time setting it up
It's pretty simple. I did macro adjustments of 4 lines between every group and seemed to find what shoots best. Now I plan on going back and fine tuning 1 line in each direction and seeing if something really special happens.
 
You know you should have cleaned sooner when it takes a full day with different methods just to get your suppressor apart and discover it looks like this inside. When a suppressor gets build up like this it has to have an affect on accuracy either good or bad.
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But with the right cleaning solution it can be made new again.
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It's pretty simple. I did macro adjustments of 4 lines between every group and seemed to find what shoots best. Now I plan on going back and fine tuning 1 line in each direction and seeing if something really special happens.


Did you do like 5 shot groups? Or 3 shot groups? Out of the 7 revolutions you can get how far did you go?
 
I just stripped my Oculus, baffles are soaking in CLR. What are you guys using to clean the tube and cap? Just a brush, pick and vinegar or something else? Always looking for a better/easier cleaning option, I never put my tube in CLR or UltraSonic because of cerakote.










 
Did you do like 5 shot groups? Or 3 shot groups? Out of the 7 revolutions you can get how far did you go?
I did 5 shot groups at 50 yards. I only went 1 revolution.

One thing to note, I feel all my groups had noticeable improvements compared to a naked muzzle. Just adding the weight up front of the brake and the tuner seems to have made the rifle a little more consistent.
 
I use the below. Yeah, I know it's supposed to be toxic and will kill a million worms and cause death to all the starving pygmies in New Guinea but I still use it. Can't use it on aluminum, only titanium and steel. Use a 50/50 mix and let sit overnight. Next day pretty much wiped it off. Some will still have to be dental picked off but nowhere near as bad as not using the mix.

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Here's a little extra candy for your viewing pleasure. Had those two laying out, I said ahh why not include them too.
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Bit of envy here. In Australia we would loose our licence and get 10 years in the slammer for hanging something like that on our barrel lol. When i was a boy i used to make my baffles out of pennies( pre decimal coins).In the 50's /i mean 1950 gee i feel old we could buy silencers /cans /suppressors made by a company called GSA. Love what you folks do ye' hah.Scott.
 
A couple of things to check here.

First, what trigger are you using? However not likely to be the cause, there's definitely potential here.

Second, have you cleaned the firing pin assembly? Some people will clean all of the grease out of actions that we ship them with and this is a bad practice. We lubricate areas that need lubrication when they go out the door and advise you keep them that way. If you haven't already, try adding some lubrication on the firing pin shaft and inside of the shroud. We've had some (very few) of these RimX firing pin assemblies gall between the shaft and shroud. We made a change on the treatment of the shaft and are now nitriding them to create a thicker, harder case on the shaft. Most of the original treated shafts have been performing perfectly fine and I wouldn't be concerned about the potential for light strikes if you haven't encountered them at this point. The way to tell if you have an original shaft or a nitrided shaft is the color. Originals will be blue and nitrided will be black.

Third, check the head space on the barrel. Again, not likely to be the cause, but still potential. Remove the extractor first (1/16" Allen wrench) and use the supplied no-go gauge to verify there isn't excessive head space.

If all of this leads you to the same result, please reach out to us and allow us to work through this with you.

Thank you - Ray

i appreciate the quick reply and help. Im sorry my reply is so LATE... after this post i left elk hunting for a month and a half... then have been slammed at work since i got back. i have yet to look at let alone touch my 2 rimx builds. they are both barreled actions from the 1st keystone group buy. they both have TT diamonds and are in KRG bravo chassis. both have had hard chamber with center x and shave brass... i did not remove any grease/lube. i figured it was there for a reason. i dont know if i have teh nitride shafts in these, havent had a chance to look. i did recieve these from keystone in sept. i will check the headspace as well. one person thought maybe the shaved brass might be gumming up the firing pin?
 
Im finally getting around to wanting to sort out my 2 builds. after being gone for most of oct and nov chasing elk and then slammed at work they just havent been a priority. they are both keystone barreled actions. they both hard chamber and shaved brass and one had lite strikes this is with them adjusted as well as i could in the KRG bravo chassis. this is also with center x. only thing i have shot through them. has anyone contacted and sent back theirs from keystone? how did it go? results? im debating if i should keep shooting them in the hopes they get better? contact him? someone else? i want to get them squared away and just have some fun.
 
Im finally getting around to wanting to sort out my 2 builds. after being gone for most of oct and nov chasing elk and then slammed at work they just havent been a priority. they are both keystone barreled actions. they both hard chamber and shaved brass and one had lite strikes this is with them adjusted as well as i could in the KRG bravo chassis. this is also with center x. only thing i have shot through them. has anyone contacted and sent back theirs from keystone? how did it go? results? im debating if i should keep shooting them in the hopes they get better? contact him? someone else? i want to get them squared away and just have some fun.

How many rounds do you have through each? Mine started out a little hard to close but was smooth after 1k of rounds. I would take a look at this link from Keystone as it may be part of your issue. John can check the chamfer and polish the chamber if its one of those two issues.
 
Im finally getting around to wanting to sort out my 2 builds. after being gone for most of oct and nov chasing elk and then slammed at work they just havent been a priority. they are both keystone barreled actions. they both hard chamber and shaved brass and one had lite strikes this is with them adjusted as well as i could in the KRG bravo chassis. this is also with center x. only thing i have shot through them. has anyone contacted and sent back theirs from keystone? how did it go? results? im debating if i should keep shooting them in the hopes they get better? contact him? someone else? i want to get them squared away and just have some fun.
We'll reach out to you via message to communicate some of the issues you're having. We'd like to get a better understanding of it and not clog up the thread with one specific issue.

Thanks - Ray
 
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well I think i have sorted out my issues with both my rimx builds. I do not believe any of it is due to the rimx action its self. im confident once i get my issues sorted out i will be happy with the rifles! just not the process. I believe my failures to fire are due to the radius being to large. also the chamber could be polished, atleast to me. im sure that doesnt help with the hard chambering and brass shaving. yes, i could probably polish it out myself but i dont feel like i should have recieved them this way if im being completely honest. and it still wouldnt fix my no fires. Im really hoping some will chime in and say they have sent theirs back to Keystone with good results. ive also reached out to a few other reputable smiths who know 22lr very well. trying to figure out my next move. talk about frustrating.... being that i have 2 of these builds my fix price is doubled... if i send them to someone else it will probably cost me 800+ bucks (stings) but i feel confident they will be fixed. i tried to stay a little budget friendly with these 2 builds, that sure back fired! or i trust keystone and see what they can do for me for what i would assume would be cheaper...
 
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well I think i have sorted out my issues with both my rimx builds. I do not believe any of it is due to the rimx action its self. im confident once i get my issues sorted out i will be happy with the rifles! just not the process. I believe my failures to fire are due to the radius being to large. also the chamber itself is pretty dang rough. im sure that doesnt help with the hard chambering and brass shaving. yes, i could probably polish it out myself but i dont feel like i should have recieved them this way if im being completely honest. and it still wouldnt fix my no fires. Im really hoping some will chime in and say they have sent theirs back to Keystone with good results. ive also reached out to a few other reputable smiths who know 22lr very well. trying to figure out my next move. talk about frustrating.... being that i have 2 of these builds my fix price is doubled... if i send them to someone else it will probably cost me 800+ bucks (stings) but i feel confident they will be fixed. i tried to stay a little budget friendly with these 2 builds, that sure back fired! or i trust keystone and see what they can do for me for what i would assume would be cheaper...



I would read this and contact them directly. Just my 2 cents...
 
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I would read this and contact them directly. Just my 2 cents...

ive read that probably a dozen times since he came out with it. but i do appreciate the help. I also have an email out to him and will see what he thinks. Im not bashing him, this was a learning curve for everyone. I just want this next step to be done right and end my issues. so the more input and peoples experiences the better. If i like what he says theres probably a good chance he will get to do mine over. I just want to make a well educated decision this go around
 
Just a few quick picks. Once I get the scope on I’ll take a few better ones.

RimX
Green Mountain 1.2 straight @ 21.5”
PDC chassis
Nevius chamber
15.4lbs with scope and bipod
When I had the 18” barrel on and the chassis weights it weighed 16.6lbs. So I’ve actually lightened it by 1.2lbs and now have a better balance point and a better overall feel.
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Look's like you got your balance you were trying achieve ! (y)Reminds me of a small bore cannon LOL. I think you will really like that Nevius chamber. Mine chambers like butter, at first I thought that it wasn't chambering a round, looked and there it was! :) Looking forward to a range report.
P.S.
Nice looking rig.
 
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For anyone having intermittent failure to fire issues.
Check firing pin fall. As per Zermatt should be .190". Mine was .125
Easy fix. Worked in warm weather, not so much in cold--- like 20* cold. Ray can walk you through it.
 
drglock - I ordered in two of those GM 'truck axle' blanks for projects; haven't done either one of them yet. Very interested in seeing how yours shoots on the RimX.

I used a Nevius reamer on a Shilen ratchet rifled select match blank in their R5 contour on my V-22S single shot, and in some very preliminary shooting in cold, breezy weather, it's shooting about as well as I'd hoped for. Really looking forward to some more moderate conditions to shoot in, and hoping they occur before next spring...
 
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For anyone having intermittent failure to fire issues.
Check firing pin fall. As per Zermatt should be .190". Mine was .125
Easy fix. Worked in warm weather, not so much in cold--- like 20* cold. Ray can walk you through it.
This isn't likely to be the cause for most of the issues. I believe your situation was an anomaly. I believe this to be true because I've had several of these come through the shop in the past few weeks and the issues were found to be unrelated to the firing pin assembly.

That being said, there's an outside chance that some may have this issue as well and they can definitely check it, but it may not be the solution at all.

Thanks - Ray
 
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First outing with the new barrel installed. Winds today here were 20-26mph so I drove to the indoor range to shoot a few different kinds of ammo. Normally in the morning on there 100yd range it’s just one or two people but not today. Every lane had shooters, mostly AR guys and if you’ve ever shot indoors you know my pain lol. The biggest problem was targets going out and back constantly causing my target to sway side to side . Making it a challenge to shoot groups. It got so bad I only shot a few groups with my Center X.

all groups shot off bench with rear bag and bipod at 50yds. This was the first rounds through the barrel. Hopefully after the holidays I can catch a calm day to see what it’ll really do.

Rimx
Green Mountain 1.2 straight at 21.5”
Nevius chamber
PDC chassis
Bix and Andy TacSport Pro
Gen II 4.5-27
Wildcat Precision did all the smithing.
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5rds Center X
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10rds Center X
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Well, from the looks of your shooting results - especially given less than ideal 'enviromental' surroundings - I think perhaps it'd be worthwhile to contour one of my two 1.2" straight blanks down to a more usable contour and try it on my RimX. Thinking something like Vudoo's Kukri contour would be appropriate...

ETA - I used a Nevius reamer on the Shilen R5 I did for my V-22S, and polished it a bit with IOSSO bore paste after finishing it. It's a pretty snug chamber for a repeater - are you satisfied with the way your RimX feeds from the magazine?
 
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Well, from the looks of your shooting results - especially given less than ideal 'enviromental' surroundings - I think perhaps it'd be worthwhile to contour one of my two 1.2" straight blanks down to a more usable contour and try it on my RimX. Thinking something like Vudoo's Kukri contour would be appropriate...

ETA - I used a Nevius reamer on the Shilen R5 I did for my V-22S, and polished it a bit with IOSSO bore paste after finishing it. It's a pretty snug chamber for a repeater - are you satisfied with the way your RimX feeds from the magazine?
No problems using this chamber with my RimX mags but I also polished the chamber face and the chamfer really well. To me it doesn’t feel any different chambering a round than my 18” barrel with Padom’s chamber which also is a really good chamber.
 
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BL, what are your thoughts on the ATS tuner? And have you done any testing with and without the brake? That looks like the Area 419 Hellfire. Have you found any adverse effects using the brake.
i threw mine on 20" heavy varmint kreiger

new case of SK Match, left the midas at home

tiny/one hole at 25 and 1/2"-3/4" give or take at 100 (shot on steel)

didnt adjust it at all
 
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