I would see if you can get your deposit back and then order one from Front Range Precision llc. Then you'll have it by next weekend.
I would see if you can get your deposit back and then order one from Front Range Precision llc. Then you'll have it by next weekend.
I checked everywhere but there. Deposit is non-refundable, looks like I might wind up with two.
@serevince Before every match I check the following:
-Extractor on bolt head. I make sure the 1/16” sized set screw is snug. FYI there’s no spring behind it.
-Tensioner claw. I make sure it doesn’t look funky or bent in any weird way. The tiny claw is held in place by a spring and detent (pressure).
-Ejector. I make sure it doesn’t wiggle by pushing on it with my finger. Before putting the action in my chassis I added a drop of purple loctite to the screw that holds it on and snugged it up. It’s not really super accessible once the action is installed. There’s no spring here either. It’s a fixed object.
-Extractor on bolt head. I make sure the 1/16” sized set screw is snug. FYI there’s no spring behind it.
-Tensioner claw. I make sure it doesn’t look funky or bent in any weird way. The tiny claw is held in place by a spring and detent (pressure).
-Ejector. I make sure it doesn’t wiggle by pushing on it with my finger. Before putting the action in my chassis I added a drop of purple loctite to the screw that holds it on and snugged it up. It’s not really super accessible once the action is installed. There’s no spring here either. It’s a fixed object.
The new Keystone GM axle performed very well yesterday. We had engagements out to 192y and a mover stage at 165. Zero issues running SKRM. Every round fed, fired, and extracted. My dope was pretty much dialed in. The only limiting factor was the guy pressing the trigger.. me. The match was challenging and a few stages had you thinking a bit on what position would be best. I ended up being in a 3 way tie for 14th. A few stages F’ed me pretty good.
Our squad was solid and the match winner was also in the squad shooting a RimX.
So I just around to digging back into this. I called Zermatt and was shocked that a real person picked up and was knowledgeable and helpful. I was waiting for a automated directory, and it caught me off guard, lol. A new extractor and tensioner are on the way.
In the mean time I replaced the extractor and now it does not eject at all. (I also noted my extractor appears to be the newer material). I came back here and re-read and it looks like I am missing some key knowledge?
I can ID the extractor, and the tensioner. Both appear to be in good shape.
What and where is the "ejector"?
Think I need to figure out the ejection issues before I tackle mag height tuning. (I can remove the mag and it still does not eject)
The ejector is attached to the action. It’s the “blade” thing poking up. If you peek in the port you can see it.
And it all coalesces, slowly....ever, so, slowly.....
My ejector looked a lot different than yours as I examined it.
Yours is on the inside of your action.....
It works loads better there...
My ejector looked a lot different than yours as I examined it.
Yours is on the inside of your action.....
It works loads better there...
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This thing ran shockingly well despite the idiot behind it leaving out 2 parts critical to extraction and ejection...
I'm going to have a running gun, and a dope at the next match.
Gonna need some news excuses. Damnit
I'm going to have a running gun, and a dope at the next match.
Gonna need some news excuses. Damnit
Just got my rimx wanted to disassemble the bolt but I'm having trouble. I've already looked at the videos on how to disassemble the bolt the problem is I cant separate the body from the firing pin assembly. I can twist the fire pin assembly from the body and that's it. The fire pin assembly will not pull apart from the body what am I doing wrong
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Made a quick video.. about as far as I typically strip it down to for quick maintenance.
Lol. I dry fire a lot so I got very good at it.Now you're just showing off
Can you elaborate on what you mean by that? Do you remove the firing pin to dryfire? I always just strayed away from dryfiring rimfire rifles.
The beautiful thing with the rimx is that it is easy to remove the firing pin and dry firing it without the firing pin doesnt damage the action.
Correct. Zermatt recommends you remove the firing pin for dry firing. Last bullet point..
Can you elaborate on what you mean by that? Do you remove the firing pin to dryfire? I always just strayed away from dryfiring rimfire rifles.
I love the accuracy potential of this barrel. I mean for $400 can’t go wrong at least in my opinion and personal experience. It does what I ask of it and with my capabilities. I calibrated DSF this morning and then walked it out from 100 to almost 400. Fired either 2-3 rounds each target. Winds were low around 2-3 mph L to R.
Again I suck at shooting so I’m not going to bore myself with 6x5 or 10x5’s.
Made the plunge for a RimX today. Getting a TS Customs build from Primal Rights in a foundation stock sent to primal finish for some coating. Stoked to get it, pics to come hopefully by end of June or mid July
It is good to see I am not the only one with this experience. My initial order was a barreled action, nothing but problems. I had a local gunsmith who had never even heard of Rimx contact Ray and rechamber it for me after using a 6' bar to get the barrel off the action. Since then, I have had Jelrod (MODACAM) do 4 barrels for me including rechambering (he does Bison Tactical prefits) and they have all functioned flawlessly. He is great to deal with.
I just had him build me a Vudoo and his turnaround time was 3-4 weeks. Other times for my Rimx barrels when he was busy it ran longer. His work is great. You might consider going with a Shilen ratchet. This is the 50 yd test target he sent me. I liked my Krieger, but after seeing the reports of BR shooters going pretty much exclusively with button rifled barrels, I sold it and am going with the Shilen ratchet. The only barrel which is sometimes preferred is the Muellerworks and it looks like they have a 4+ year wait, I have been able to get Shilens quickly, though not from Shilen as am like 2=3 months into their 6-8 month waitlistl
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Depending on the distance you are shooting, the Shilen and Benchmark (small # of grooves) might not be the best application. Some of the research says that higher groove and cut rifling seems to help out with longer distances ~250+ yards. Shilen, Benchmark are both low groove and button rifled.
I have a Benchmark on my rifle that performs very well close distance. Looking forward to a Krieger for another build to see how it compares at the longer distances.
I got that same feedback from another post. Chris Simmons winning barrel was a Krieger, basically same barrel and chamber as the one I sent to Jacob. I have a couple of barrels I set up for Lapua, 1 1/2 degree leade, but will be shooting 2 degree now since I will be shooting Eley (going with recommendations from Kevin Nevius) and rather than rechamber, I'll probably post them on shooters with tuner.
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The Shilen has the EPS Ultimate chamber and the GM the Eachus.
John did a great job on the GM. I am looking forward to making a comparison between the 2 chambers before deciding on which to use with my other Shilen.. I am really intrigued by the Eachus chamber. It is super tight, but allowed me to chamber and extract unfired CCI SV, Eley, and SK. I am surprised because I had "heard" that tight chambers don't always allow this and both of these chamber engrave a good amount. What surprised me even moire is how tight the Eachus is. I have an Eley Ultimate reamer, which is a straight .220" which is one of the narrowest chambers I have seen listed. The reamer will not go into the Eachus chamber. It is very tight and probably explains why it performs so well. Looking forward to wringing these 2 out.
I am totally impressed with the Keystone GM workmanship.
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I'm shooting a GM 22" from Keystone that I believe has that chamber and it's been great. Kinda wish I went with a 24", but it shoots well, no issues with feeding/extraction, and is plenty accurate with SK rifle match.
I rarely shoot for groups so this is the only pic I have at the moment. 10 shots off a bench, bag and bipod, shot in rapid succession. The flyer was probably on me.
Attachments
My son's rimx with a keystone/green mountain is lights out. He loves it. great workmanship.
Mike
Mike
Silly question, the action does come with trigger pins???
Yes, and fortunately, unlike with my Vudoo, action, the pins actually fit,
Thank you both for the confirmation, action arriving any day and I had not thought about the trigger pins.
Had some frustration with my Rimx but figured it out. Installed my proof barrel and dropped it into my B14R stock to shoot while I wait for my Altitude stock to come in. I had to sand a little in the barrel channel, but everything looked OK. I had some misfires and primer strikes and ground the my cocking piece down .010". I was still getting light strikes and what I thought were some flyers. I took the action out and put marker to line up with where the bolt closes. When I put it back in the HMR stock the bolt hits the stock about 3 degrees from fully closed. It needs enough removed that I'm just going to wait for my other stock. I figured I would mention it incase anyone had a similar issue.
My new stock (Mesa Altitude) came in, opened it up to Hawkins M5 today, and could not believe how much I had to remove from the bolt handle inlet, and I could still remove a little more to get it to close a hair. Is this normal? I had the same amount of interference with my Bergara HMR stock.
I stayed light on the stock, it’s just at 9lbs for a plinker with the strike eagle on it. I would prefer not to carve up my new stock like this…
I stayed light on the stock, it’s just at 9lbs for a plinker with the strike eagle on it. I would prefer not to carve up my new stock like this…
Open it up as much as needed to positively close with additional clearance all the way around the resting bolt handle. Some stocks can easily accommodate the 20 degree swept back bolt of the RimX others cannot. That's pretty sweet setup, actually been thinking of going a similar route with my second RimX action, lightweight overall with a scope more in the 3.5 to 18 range and a suppressor.
I'm pretty impressed with the stock, but it was advertised as 24 ounces and is really 27. Still 5 ounces lighter than the AG composites I was waiting for. I could shed 8-9 ounces with 5-22 LHT, but I really like the features on this scope!
Lefty 17WSM, and probably the last lefty we will ever stock/sell is available.
I want one of those so bad. Just can't decide what 4 rifles need to go in order to build it. Sure wish there were options between this and BMag/Ruger
Is the RimX action a short action or long action?
Does anyone know of a 700 LA rimfire action?
Does anyone know of a 700 LA rimfire action?
When your rifle chassis costs $1000+ it'd be nice to share one chassis
Lol....or have 2 or 4 or 6 $1000+ chassis...just a thought. What do I know....or get a cheaper chassis....another thought.
Please remember that not everyone may have the purchasing power you may have to buy multiple $1000+ chassis'. Also, purchasing a cheaper chassis defeats the purpose of having a matching training rifle for a larger caliber rifle.
Im not sure a 22rf short action equates to a large caliber long action training platform.....so the quick answer is no the RimX is a short action you'll need a new chassis
Really considering hard having Travis at TS Customs build a Rim-X .22 for me.
Just need to decide on JAE (what my Mausingfield has) vs Foundation, and what scope to get.
Just need to decide on JAE (what my Mausingfield has) vs Foundation, and what scope to get.
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