Raufoss

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Nov 23, 2010
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Anyone have an idea where and what are those
Indentation on the breech face?

Benchmark barrel prefit. Barrel is brand new , I’ve shot the first 170 rounds through it and that’s what I’ve found once I inspected it after the range session. It’s catching under the nail.

No FTF or extraction issues. Feed fine. Torqued at 70 ft-lbs
9D46C701-C99B-4A6A-BEA5-F7897436D861.jpeg
 

Raufoss

Sergeant
PX Member
Minuteman
Nov 23, 2010
417
146
34
Missouri
Anyone have an idea where and what are those
Indentation on the breech face?

Benchmark barrel prefit. Barrel is brand new , I’ve shot the first 170 rounds through it and that’s what I’ve found once I inspected it after the range session. It’s catching under the nail.

No FTF or extraction issues. Feed fine. Torqued at 70 ft-lbs
View attachment 7564264
I’ve check also I don’t have any bolt back lash with the firing pin removed . Might explain this.
 

drglock

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  • Jan 13, 2012
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    I could be wrong but looks like your bolt face is hitting it. Looks like tensioner and extractor marks on the breach face. I’ve only got my barrel torqued at 45lbs.
     

    Raufoss

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    Do you dry fire?
    I dry fire but I remove the firing pin as suggested. Before going to the range I've inspected the rifle so it was not there before the range session. During the live fire I must have dry fired 3 times when I forgot the mag was empty.
     

    reubenski

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    Mine has the same marks. All the RimX's I have seen have the same marks. My TL3's have the same as well. I think it's just the floating bolt head. The clearance between the bolt nose and breech face is miniscule on a RimX and the bolt head floats so...it is what it is
     
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    Raufoss

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    Mine has the same marks. All the RimX's I have seen have the same marks. My TL3's have the same as well. I think it's just the floating bolt head. The clearance between the bolt nose and breech face is miniscule on a RimX and the bolt head floats so...it is what it is
    I get what you say but I’ve talk to two friends that own RimX that have more round count than me and dry fire and they don’t have any marks. Got the pics of their breech. Something doesn’t add up.
     

    Mordamer

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  • May 11, 2010
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    I get what you say but I’ve talk to two friends that own RimX that have more round count than me and dry fire and they don’t have any marks. Got the pics of their breech. Something doesn’t add up.
    Pics of your bolt face?
     

    Frank Green

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    www.bartleinbarrels.com
    @padom what length is your barrel going to be? Is there a length for accuracy or is it all personal preference?
    More preference than anything else.

    I like shorter for a scoped gun but longer for a gun shooting iron/match sights.

    A 22rf if I recall correctly burns all of it's powder by 16". So my barrels are between 18" and 22" long. Depending on what gun it is on the little extra length for balancing the rifle.

    My rebuilt 52D has a 28" long barrel and set up for iron sights.

    The faster you can get the bullet out of the barrel your overall shooting accuracy can go up as well. So unless I need the barrel length....I like the 18".
     

    nesikabay

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    Dec 3, 2006
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    Anyone have an idea where and what are those
    Indentation on the breech face?

    Benchmark barrel prefit. Barrel is brand new , I’ve shot the first 170 rounds through it and that’s what I’ve found once I inspected it after the range session. It’s catching under the nail.

    No FTF or extraction issues. Feed fine. Torqued at 70 ft-lbs
    View attachment 7564264
    I could be wrong but it looks like blow back because of the extracter but i would not worry
     

    nesikabay

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    Mine has the same marks. All the RimX's I have seen have the same marks. My TL3's have the same as well. I think it's just the floating bolt head. The clearance between the bolt nose and breech face is miniscule on a RimX and the bolt head floats so...it is what it is
    You have this problem because they are made to shoot 22lr and 17 hmr. from the same action.
     
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    Rimdenter

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    Please explain??? I'm curious 🤔
    Your tolarance stack is about +.0003 like mine it did the same thing on a proof barrel. I broke everything down and measured everything to tenths . It was +.0003 at tenon which made the bolt face lightly kiss the breech face. This is not a problem. I never saw it effect accuracy ,I'll proably be extending my tenon tolarance and shaving my bolt face to reduce my head space to .044 its .0455 now.
     
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    BisSilent

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    Your tolarance stack is about +.0003 like mine it did the same thing on a proof barrel. I broke everything down and measured everything to tenths . It was +.0003 at tenon which made the bolt face lightly kiss the breech face. This is not a problem. I never saw it effect accuracy ,I'll proably be extending my tenon tolarance and shaving my bolt face to reduce my head space to .044 its .0455 now.
    + 3 ten thousands!!!! Show me how you measured that. Thanks
     

    Rimdenter

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    + 3 ten thousands!!!! Show me how you measured that. Thanks
    Being a 40 years plus machinest with 36 years in precision aircraft tool and die work it's not a difficult task . I clamp the barrel in my lab grade precision v blocks on my surface plate. In a vertical position its clamped to a 90deg. plate and indicated vertical in both axis to 0 the breech face is zero on the surface plate I ring then stack lab grade gauge blocks togather till I hit a go no go point. This case on mine the 1.6855 +.0000/-.0015 checked 1.6858 see attachment
     

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    BisSilent

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    Being a 40 years plus machinest with 36 years in precision aircraft tool and die work it's not a difficult task . I clamp the barrel in my lab grade precision v blocks on my surface plate. In a vertical position its clamped to a 90deg. plate and indicated vertical in both axis to 0 the breech face is zero on the surface plate I ring then stack lab grade gauge blocks togather till I hit a go no go point. This case on mine the 1.6855 +.0000/-.0015 checked 1.6858 see attachment
    💪 just wanted to make sure you weren't using a pair of Chinese digital calipers 🤣
     

    Rimdenter

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    💪 just wanted to make sure you weren't using a pair of Chinese digital calipers 🤣
    I also have access to state of the art optical comparators and Zeiss cmms if I have to really know ! A lot of problems in factory run components where mean tolerances are required they dont allow for push off passes the Tl2 I run will easily leave .001 sometimes if the iscar 55deg insert I use is not brand new.
     

    justinmac13

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    Jan 15, 2014
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    I’m having a failure to feed issue and was wondering if any has experienced this with the Rim-X. The round is picked up from the mag and inserted in the chamber but the. Lot will not cam over, it’s almost like it does not get under the extractor when going forward. I pull the bolt back and have to get the round out with a knife and most of the time it works just fine the second time. Has happened about 7 times the last couple mags. This set up only has about 200 rounds but just recently experienced this the last 40-50 rounds.
     

    Rimdenter

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    I’m having a failure to feed issue and was wondering if any has experienced this with the Rim-X. The round is picked up from the mag and inserted in the chamber but the. Lot will not cam over, it’s almost like it does not get under the extractor when going forward. I pull the bolt back and have to get the round out with a knife and most of the time it works just fine the second time. Has happened about 7 times the last couple mags. This set up only has about 200 rounds but just recently experienced this the last 40-50 rounds.
    Your magazine height is out of location to low bullet is late rising. There is an adjustment on back of magazine, ie silver tab with torex screw mark location loosen screw move tab down. I used calipers to set mine if you go to low it will create a contact problem with underside of bolt showing 2 parallel grooves in front of drive band on bullet. The screw was proably loose and let clip slide down.
     

    justinmac13

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    Ah thanks. Come to think of it I had set it initially when installed in an MPA chassis and had no issues, just recently moved it over to a t4a. I’m sure your probably correct. Thank you I’ll go check there.
     

    justinmac13

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    Your magazine height is out of location to low bullet is late rising. There is an adjustment on back of magazine, ie silver tab with torex screw mark location loosen screw move tab down. I used calipers to set mine if you go to low it will create a contact problem with underside of bolt showing 2 parallel grooves in front of drive band on bullet. The screw was proably loose and let clip slide down.


    After playing around with it for a while it just appears I cannot slow feed the action, if I slow it down the case pops out in front of the extractor, if I run it hard it works just fine without issues.
     

    Schütze

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    Why are you here?
    I think he just wants to support us in our bad decisions of purchasing one of the top of the line receivers out there.

    On mine I've installed the keystone GM barrel. I'm 58 and shoot my first NRL22 style match ever yesterday, the RimX runs flawless without any hiccups at all !
    The shooter not so much, but that is a different story.
     
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    Rimdenter

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    After playing around with it for a while it just appears I cannot slow feed the action, if I slow it down the case pops out in front of the extractor, if I run it hard it works just fine without issues.
    Do me a favor the stock the action came out of , take a d cell battery lay over the front action hole in stock. A d cell is 1.300 in dia. now where you bottom metal sits use your calipers and measure through the front action hole ,from the face to the battery. Write this dim. down repeat process on the current stock your action is in I promise you the stock your currently using is different, ie most likely a larger measurement here. You also need to check the tension screw on the extractor plate if it is loose it will allow for the shell to sneak in front of it due to reduced rim clearance behind it. Now with a shell in mag looking into the port so you can see the bolt face coming into contact with the shell rim slowly slowly bring bolt forward the rim should feed up and behind the extractor plate you should be 20 to 25% in before the shell reaches the clear out on mag. This is where the spring tension in mag seats the shell in the complete bolt recess and cartridge is held by opposing extractor. If it is still jumping out in front of extractor plate lower the the locator clip on back of mag .020 and repeat it will stop.
     
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    Rimdenter

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    I think he just wants to support us in our bad decisions of purchasing one of the top of the line receivers out there.

    On mine I've installed the keystone GM barrel. I'm 58 and shoot my first NRL22 style match ever yesterday, the RimX runs flawless without any hiccups at all !
    The shooter not so much, but that is a different story.
    How does the GM shoot from John length?
     

    Schütze

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    It's 20 " (for some more weight) SS 1:16 M24 contour. I don't measure groups but posted pic's a while back. It shoots smaller groups at 50 Y then my B14r. It's padom's chamber, look it up in the beginning of this thread. My results are matching the ones from padom.
     

    padom

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  • Mar 13, 2013
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    How does the GM shoot from John length?

    Here is how my GM with my chamber shot in my original RimX review




    50yd





    100yd




    I have a new GM RimX barrel KA sent me with a slightly modified version of my chamber they wanted me to test. Havent screwed it on yet with the weather/snow we had the last month but maybe Wednesday.. Supposed to by 55 and Sunny...
     
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    catalyst81

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    I have a new GM RimX barrel KA sent me with a slightly modified version of my chamber they wanted me to test. Havent screwed it on yet with the weather/snow we had the last month but maybe Wednesday.. Supposed to by 55 and Sunny...

    I'd be interested to see how it compares. I have one on order with John. Fingers crossed some sunshine comes your way. It's warmed up here in SLC this week.
     
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    justinmac13

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    Do me a favor the stock the action came out of , take a d cell battery lay over the front action hole in stock. A d cell is 1.300 in dia. now where you bottom metal sits use your calipers and measure through the front action hole ,from the face to the battery. Write this dim. down repeat process on the current stock your action is in I promise you the stock your currently using is different, ie most likely a larger measurement here. You also need to check the tension screw on the extractor plate if it is loose it will allow for the shell to sneak in front of it due to reduced rim clearance behind it. Now with a shell in mag looking into the port so you can see the bolt face coming into contact with the shell rim slowly slowly bring bolt forward the rim should feed up and behind the extractor plate you should be 20 to 25% in before the shell reaches the clear out on mag. This is where the spring tension in mag seats the shell in the complete bolt recess and cartridge is held by opposing extractor. If it is still jumping out in front of extractor plate lower the the locator clip on back of mag .020 and repeat it will stop.

    Thank you sir, I will try this. I cannot check it against the MPA matrix as I traded it off already. But I will definitely check the tension screw. Like you said it has to be something with the new stock as I didn’t have a single hiccup before.
     

    ctrickett

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    Feb 12, 2008
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    Weather was decent last week got to check some ammo....PVA prefit barrel hammers 10 shots 50yd group
    Flawless function, so much fun now that it actually works
     

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    catalyst81

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    How likely is it that a RimX will fit in a Manners stock bedded for a TL3? I have a RimX on order and was thinking of throwing it in a spare T2A I have sitting if its doable.
     

    Wild dog

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    The bolt sweeps on the TL3 and RimX are different. You will have to open up the bolt notch on the stock to allow the RimX to close properly. Then you should be good to go.
     
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    BisSilent

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    The bolt sweeps on the TL3 and RimX are different. You will have to open up the bolt notch on the stock to allow the RimX to close properly. Then you should be good to go.
    Thought it would be drop in....sorry!!
    I have mine in a Manners for a Defiance and did have to open up the bolt notch.IMG_20210305_204403_106.jpgIMG_20210305_204402_963.jpg
     
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    BushyAR15

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    Anyone having eject issues with their RimX? Several of my buddies run a RimX and I just got one last week. We are all using different barrels and are not novice shooters. We are noticing an occasional interesting issue; A round will be fed into the chamber, not ignite, and when we go to extract, the round does not eject, it's "stuck" in the chamber and have to use a pick or something to pull it out. Now this happens not very often; Happened to me 4 times shooting 150 rounds. I'm thinking the chamber just needs to be opened up a hair. But was wondering if anyone had experienced this issue and if they resolved it without "reaming" the chamber...
     

    Kg33

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    Nov 28, 2020
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    Anyone having eject issues with their RimX? Several of my buddies run a RimX and I just got one last week. We are all using different barrels and are not novice shooters. We are noticing an occasional interesting issue; A round will be fed into the chamber, not ignite, and when we go to extract, the round does not eject, it's "stuck" in the chamber and have to use a pick or something to pull it out. Now this happens not very often; Happened to me 4 times shooting 150 rounds. I'm thinking the chamber just needs to be opened up a hair. But was wondering if anyone had experienced this issue and if they resolved it without "reaming" the chamber...

    I shot a 22x match at gunsite and a guy had that exact issue on the first stage. It was 20ish degrees maybe that had something to do with it? Didn't have any issues the rest of the match.
     
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    Schütze

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    Mine did this only ones, when a new unexperienced shooter was not running the bolt right. He run it to slow and stopped between.

    If this happens I suggest to use a correct coated one piece cleaning rod to get the round out.
     

    BisSilent

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    I had this issue yesterday for the first time. I was practicing a stage on a barricade and I had short stroked the bolt and it didn't feed the round correctly with the rim getting behind the extractor. The bolt wouldn't close as it shouldn't.
     
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    reubenski

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    If the rim is under the extractor, it's going to pull it out. The extractor on a RIM-X is burly AF. The small hook that people like to call the extractor is the tensioner. It's job is to just push the rim up under the extractor. It sounds like your rounds are being controlled round fed. The rim isn't under the extractor. Everytime your chambering a round and it's not properly under the extractor you have to be crushing that tensioner. Your extractor could be damaged as well. Round is likely not going off because the rim has standoff from the bolt face. Need to get the feeding straightened out. Probably need a new tensioner and extractor to start with