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Finally jumping on the 22LR bandwagon. Got myself a RimX action, Modacam barrel and dropped it into a Foundation Exodus with Bix-N-Andy trigger and Hawkins bottom metal. Just need to throw a scope on it and take it to the range to see how she does. Will be fun to shoot some 22 matches alongside all the centerfire stuff.
 
Finally jumping on the 22LR bandwagon. Got myself a RimX action, Modacam barrel and dropped it into a Foundation Exodus with Bix-N-Andy trigger and Hawkins bottom metal. Just need to throw a scope on it and take it to the range to see how she does. Will be fun to shoot some 22 matches alongside all the centerfire stuff.
Did you need do anything special to the bna to function 100% in the rimX? I'd prefer that trigger, but they don't time well on Zermatt actions, while triggertechs have zero cock on close.
 
Did you need do anything special to the bna to function 100% in the rimX? I'd prefer that trigger, but they don't time well on Zermatt actions, while triggertechs have zero cock on close.
Haven't shot it yet so can't say for certain. Seems to have a touch more cock on close than some of my other actions, but nothing that jumped out at me as bothersome. Didn't do anything other than pin it in.

Maybe someday I'll try a TT Diamond in it, I've got those on all my other rigs.
 
Haven't shot it yet so can't say for certain. Seems to have a touch more cock on close than some of my other actions, but nothing that jumped out at me as bothersome. Didn't do anything other than pin it in.

Maybe someday I'll try a TT Diamond in it, I've got those on all my other rigs.

Did you order the correct height sear for your BNA for Zermatt actions which is the low sear??? They come with a medium out of the box...
 
I have low sears on B&A triggers in mine and they work perfectly.

Same here. I actually worked with BulletCentral/BNA to take the proper measurements when the first test RimX was received in my hands to confirm the correct sear height for the RimX. Based off the measurements, it was a low sear... So if guys are buying BNA (which come with the medium sear) and not specifying which sear they want it to come with from Bullet Central OR arent buying the low sear on their own and putting it in, then the sear height will be off on a RimX or ALL Zermatt actions...


I have 6 actions from Bighorn/Zermatt all TL3's and a RimX and ALL have the BNA Tacsport Pro 2 Stage with flat trigger shoe and low sear. Its been confirmed that the low sear is the correct sear for all Zermatt actions unless something has changed in their manufacturing of actions the past 2 years...



 
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Same here. I actually worked with BulletCentral/BNA to take the proper measurements when the first test RimX was received in my hands to confirm the correct sear height for the RimX. Based off the measurements, it was a low sear... So if guys are buying BNA (which come with the medium sear) and not specifying which sear they want it to come with from Bullet Central OR arent buying the low sear on their own and putting it in, then the sear height will be off on a RimX or ALL Zermatt actions...


I have 6 actions from Bighorn/Zermatt all TL3's and a RimX and ALL have the BNA Tacsport Pro 2 Stage with flat trigger shoe and low sear. Its been confirmed that the low sear is the correct sear for all Zermatt actions unless something has changed in their manufacturing of actions the past 2 years...



It is currently true that BnA triggers paired with any of our actions should use the LOW sear.

Thanks - Ray
 
It is currently true that BnA triggers paired with any of our actions should use the LOW sear.

Thanks - Ray
I tried a medium sear in my origin and had 10k cock on close prior to going back to TT, will low sear fix that Ray? I do have a low sear, I will install that in my bna and swap it into the rimX.
 
I tried a medium sear in my origin and had 10k cock on close prior to going back to TT, will low sear fix that Ray? I do have a low sear, I will install that in my bna and swap it into the rimX.
I have a low sear BNA on my RimX and compared to a medium sear BNA on an Origin side by side. Both functioned but the difference in feel and bolt close was night and day.
 
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It is currently true that BnA triggers paired with any of our actions should use the LOW sear.

Awesome, thank you all for the clarification.

I have another TT Diamond not currently being used so I'll just swap it over for that to be on the safe side. I don't know specifically which sear I have in the BNA so I'll have to look into that as well.
 
Simple bore guide fix.
With it inserted into action, mark it at the ejection port. Drill mark. Clean debris.
This way you always put dry patch into guide and add cleaner at the action hole.
 
Some do, some aren't marked at all...I have 2 mediums here that have 2 dots on them....I have a High for a Vudoo here without any markings on it



Yeah I have one dot. Two dot. And no dot sears and don't remember which is which and they don't make it easy to find online

Why they didn't do a L M H...I guess cost
 
I tried a medium sear in my origin and had 10k cock on close prior to going back to TT, will low sear fix that Ray? I do have a low sear, I will install that in my bna and swap it into the rimX.
No, sear height and COC are not related. COC is related to the sear length. .010" of COC is pretty darn low and close to undetectable but could be improved upon if it were felt totally necessary.

Thanks - Ray
 
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Got my Dead Air Mask in a month ago and finally made it out to the range. During the wait I sent off my well seasoned Primal Rights/TS Customs barrel out to get chopped and threaded from 26” down to 21”. Below are the first 20 rounds with the can, 10 and 10 at 50y. I had to adjust the zero because the scope was on another rifle.
With all that said, 262y wasn’t confident inspiring. Seemed like it was a little everywhere at that distance with a 6” plate. The barrel is a 16.5 twist. Ammo used was SK LR that does really well out of my Keystone barrel.
 
Cutting the barrel down is, most likely, the reason your groups at distance aren't as good or consistent as they may have been before.
 
Cutting the barrel down is, most likely, the reason your groups at distance aren't as good or consistent as they may have been before.
Oh I know. Shot a match with it on Saturday and did okay. I wasn’t confident with it but wasn’t bad. I threw my Keystone barrel back on after as soon as I got home.
 
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View attachment 8097783View attachment 8097784Got my Dead Air Mask in a month ago and finally made it out to the range. During the wait I sent off my well seasoned Primal Rights/TS Customs barrel out to get chopped and threaded from 26” down to 21”. Below are the first 20 rounds with the can, 10 and 10 at 50y. I had to adjust the zero because the scope was on another rifle.
With all that said, 262y wasn’t confident inspiring. Seemed like it was a little everywhere at that distance with a 6” plate. The barrel is a 16.5 twist. Ammo used was SK LR that does really well out of my Keystone barrel.
You can't just cut and recrown a barrel at a random length and expect it to shoot! It should be slugged to find the tightest spot and cut and recrowned at this point. Threading doesn't help accuracy either as it opens the bore at the very spot you want the bore the tightest.
 
You can't just cut and recrown a barrel at a random length and expect it to shoot! It should be slugged to find the tightest spot and cut and recrowned at this point. Threading doesn't help accuracy either as it opens the bore at the very spot you want the bore the tightest.
It’s fine. I’ll relegate it to 200 and in shooting when I want to shoot with a can. It still hammers at 50 and I was still stacking at 100.
 
While I don't disagree with what littlesister said I have not had enough barrel experience to say that it is true without a doubt. I have read many times of manufactures "choking" barrels through lapping or other methods to induce a tighter bore near the muzzle and number of gunsmiths echoing the same sentiment. The intriguing thing I find is that if the statement is true would that not mean that any barrel shortening needs to be done from the chamber not the muzzle ??
 
Good point. Anyone who ever tried to shorten a Anschutz barrel will tell you, you only shorten from the breach never the muzzle . This would hold true for any barrel if you know the choke is where it's supposed to be. I recently had a barrel shortened 3 ins because the choke was found to be 3 ins back of the crown. Accuracy was improved. Not night and day difference but a noticeable difference. I'm not saying a barrel That isn't choked in the correct spot wont shoot. Also not saying a threaded barrel won't shoot. What I'm saying is that if you're trying for all the accuracy you can get from a barrel, you cut and crown at the tight spot and you don't thread.
 
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Are there any future plans for a redesign that would allow the recapture of a chambered round?
No. That would require the traditional protruding extraction system which would require timed extractor cuts in the barrels which is one of the major selling points of the RimX action.

Thank you - Ray
 
No. That would require the traditional protruding extraction system which would require timed extractor cuts in the barrels which is one of the major selling points of the RimX action.

Thank you - Ray
Thanks, Ray. Have we positively identified the majority of causes of a round jumping in front of the tensioner? I check my extractor and tensioner frequently, but every now and again I have one slip-up requiring pocket knife extraction. Just wondering if there is a defined list of causes so I can prevent the issue. Thanks
 
Thanks, Ray. Have we positively identified the majority of causes of a round jumping in front of the tensioner? I check my extractor and tensioner frequently, but every now and again I have one slip-up requiring pocket knife extraction. Just wondering if there is a defined list of causes so I can prevent the issue. Thanks
Most likely magazine fitment if you use a mdt acc chassis. My RimX magazines have a lot of play in two of these chassis. That’s why I use a different chassis for my RimX now.
 
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Most likely magazine fitment if you use a mdt acc chassis. My RimX magazines have a lot of play in two of these chassis. That’s why I use a different chassis for my RimX now.
I recently swapped to an ACC Elite from a MPA Hybrid and it’s still happened in both chassis. My mag fitment in the ACC Elite is tight as hell, I played with the supplied dowels and the catch on both mags and chassis to get them snug as a rug.

In regard to mag fitment causing the issue, what would be the most likely catalyst? Mag to high, mag too low?
 
I recently swapped to an ACC Elite from a MPA Hybrid and it’s still happened in both chassis. My mag fitment in the ACC Elite is tight as hell, I played with the supplied dowels and the catch on both mags and chassis to get them snug as a rug.

In regard to mag fitment causing the issue, what would be the most likely catalyst? Mag to high, mag too low?
Sorry, I’ve no experience with the acc elite. To high is almost not possible in my opinion. I don’t know how best to explain it without looking at it. Someone else please.
 
Sorry, I’ve no experience with the acc elite. To high is almost not possible in my opinion. I don’t know how best to explain it without looking at it. Someone else please.
No problem, I appreciate the input. I’m just trying to figure out what are the possible situations for having a round jump in front of the tensioner. I have over 5k rounds at this point on the action and I think I’ve had 9 rounds now do this. 9 out of 5k doesn’t seem bad but every time it happens I have to check and/or replace extractor / tensioner and when it happens on the clock at a match it’s quite frustrating. If I’m asking too much than that’s fine but if there are ways to prevent it from happening or an important list of tolerances or mechanical functions to check and/or maintain I’m all ears!
 
No problem, I appreciate the input. I’m just trying to figure out what are the possible situations for having a round jump in front of the tensioner. I have over 5k rounds at this point on the action and I think I’ve had 9 rounds now do this. 9 out of 5k doesn’t seem bad but every time it happens I have to check and/or replace extractor / tensioner and when it happens on the clock at a match it’s quite frustrating. If I’m asking too much than that’s fine but if there are ways to prevent it from happening or an important list of tolerances or mechanical functions to check and/or maintain I’m all ears!
I’d say that with mine and I’ve had it quite awhile and most of my problems like this was before they came out with the angled cut on the tensioner was 90% of the time do to the tensioner whether it be the tensioner, tensioner detent or the spring. A tight chamber without a chamfer can add to the problems. But generally if it’s popping out in front of the extractor it’s something off with the tensioner setup.
 
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5k? I assume it’s time to replace extractor and tensioner plus spring. How does the extractor look on the edges? Gets easily damaged if you try to close the bolt to hard on a round in front of the extractor.
 
5k? I assume it’s time to replace extractor and tensioner plus spring. How does the extractor look on the edges? Gets easily damaged if you try to close the bolt to hard on a round in front of the extractor.
I have replaced both the extractor and tensioner multiple times. It wasn't until later in the round count I began replacing both after every issue.
 
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I’d say that with mine and I’ve had it quite awhile and most of my problems like this was before they came out with the angled cut on the tensioner was 90% of the time do to the tensioner whether it be the tensioner, tensioner detent or the spring. A tight chamber without a chamfer can add to the problems. But generally if it’s popping out in front of the extractor it’s something off with the tensioner setup.
Thanks for the input! I was told my current barrel has a "modified Win 52D" chamber which as I understand is on the tighter side. I do have a new barrel I am threading on coming up so maybe that will clear some things up.
 
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Worn vs new

Darn you got some chunks out of that thing... I've got over 10,000rd across various Barrels on my RimX without any issues. Ray did send me a replacement tensioner and extractor a while back but I'm still running the original ones.... going strung and feeding like a dream. XLR Envy chassis
 
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I’ve had my RimX for about a year and 3 months. Between matches and range time I have over 4000+ rounds to date. While not high round count like may here it has been placed through varying conditions without issues. *knock on wood* I’ve never had any feeding or extraction issues at the matches or range time. People are dumbfounded when I tell them that. The only “issue” I’ve had was shooting Eley ammo with the occasional light strike but that was rectified quickly with a new cocking piece from Zermatt. I keep it in my range bag and swap it out when I’m shooting Eley. It has been a non issue since. I predominately shoot SK though. If you’re on the fence about getting a RimX buy with confidence. Whatever went on during the early years has been long gone.
 
Re RimX in MDT ACC: My RimX is in an MDT ACC chassis, both purchased in late 2022. It took a few hundred rounds of break-in (so did my Vudoo) and tinkering with latch height on the magazines, but now it feeds so smoothly as to create doubt sometimes that a round was picked up. I haven't had a round get in front of the extractor in some time, but it is indeed a pita when it happens. Yay for being a dinosaur who always carries a pocket knife.

I did find that, for me at least, it is indeed possible to have a magazine too tight in the well. Mine are now set so the mags have just enough vertical play that, with the bolt closed, I can feel it move a very tiny bit if I push upward on it. Probably .01" or so, no more than .03".
 
Darn you got some chunks out of that thing... I've got over 10,000rd across various Barrels on my RimX without any issues. Ray did send me a replacement tensioner and extractor a while back but I'm still running the original ones.... going strung and feeding like a dream. XLR Envy chassis
If I remember correctly, the worn “reddish” looking one is out of different material. On the replacement one I’m not seeing this.
 
If I remember correctly, the worn “reddish” looking one is out of different material. On the replacement one I’m not seeing this.

Yea I forget. Either different material or different heat treatment. Either way, I got a new one if I need it some day.
 
Picked up my rimx build last night, dropped it into the envy pro, balances pretty well with the gen3 razor. I'll likely switch to some lighter glass and drop the heavy nose extension, should cut weight by a pound. It's 16.2 as it sits in the photo.
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No problem, I appreciate the input. I’m just trying to figure out what are the possible situations for having a round jump in front of the tensioner. I have over 5k rounds at this point on the action and I think I’ve had 9 rounds now do this. 9 out of 5k doesn’t seem bad but every time it happens I have to check and/or replace extractor / tensioner and when it happens on the clock at a match it’s quite frustrating. If I’m asking too much than that’s fine but if there are ways to prevent it from happening or an important list of tolerances or mechanical functions to check and/or maintain I’m all ears!
At that frequency, there's nothing you're doing wrong. If you've had <0.2% issues over time, those are more than likely just freak accidents. I understand they suck, but, generally, what accident doesn't suck?

There shouldn't be an explicit need to change bolt head components each time there's an issue. If you are unsure, you can send pictures for visual inspection or just try running the same components and make a decision after a few rounds have been cycled.

Overall, it's not likely that you have an issue that needs to be addressed. But, if you're looking for something to do, you can shim your magazine to avoid any fore and aft rocking. Folks have used anything from electrical tape to velcro tape to solidify the magazine's fitment in the magazine well.

Vertical fitment is important but, again, with so few issues, yours is likely in a good spot. You're looking for no more than 1/16" of vertical play with the bolt open or out of the action. Generally, it's about .100" from the top of the highest position of the magazine latch.

If you've got questions, let me know [email protected]

Thanks - Ray
 
At that frequency, there's nothing you're doing wrong. If you've had <0.2% issues over time, those are more than likely just freak accidents. I understand they suck, but, generally, what accident doesn't suck?

There shouldn't be an explicit need to change bolt head components each time there's an issue. If you are unsure, you can send pictures for visual inspection or just try running the same components and make a decision after a few rounds have been cycled.

Overall, it's not likely that you have an issue that needs to be addressed. But, if you're looking for something to do, you can shim your magazine to avoid any fore and aft rocking. Folks have used anything from electrical tape to velcro tape to solidify the magazine's fitment in the magazine well.

Vertical fitment is important but, again, with so few issues, yours is likely in a good spot. You're looking for no more than 1/16" of vertical play with the bolt open or out of the action. Generally, it's about .100" from the top of the highest position of the magazine latch.

If you've got questions, let me know [email protected]

Thanks - Ray
Appreciate the reply Ray, thank you very much.
 
I have been having ejection issues the fired round sort of falls out of the chamber. After spending about on hour slowly ejecting rounds from the gun. I noticed a pattern. Not all rounds did this but it is something to consider. I played with mag height and feel that I have it " just right". no feeding or extraction issues but ejection mehhhh. I noticed that the lip of the spent case would contact the magazine edge causing it to eject prior to the extractor post. I took a small file and champfered he mag edges in the front of the mag, not alot just enough so that the case passes over the mag. I ran over two hundred rounds without failure to eject. Now that it is fixed I can move over to my issues with Eley and primer strikes. You can audibly hear the difference between two or three rounds one being hotter than the other. Ray and Aaron are working on this and I am just waiting on their testing to be complete. The customer service over there is second to none.
 
Looking into buying another barrel for my Rim X, right now I have tested the Lothar Walther, Shilen Rachet, and Muller. I am looking at a Lilja, Hart or Benchmark at 22" + or - , non-threaded. Either get Keystone to do the chambering or someone else.
Let me know which one you guys would like me to purchase and test.
 
I'd be interested to see how an non threaded Benchmark at 22"+ would stack up against the Shilen/Muller options.
 
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Looking into buying another barrel for my Rim X, right now I have tested the Lothar Walther, Shilen Rachet, and Muller. I am looking at a Lilja, Hart or Benchmark at 22" + or - , non-threaded. Either get Keystone to do the chambering or someone else.
Let me know which one you guys would like me to purchase and test.
I vote Lilja, what can you say about the results from the others tested so far?
 
Looking into buying another barrel for my Rim X, right now I have tested the Lothar Walther, Shilen Rachet, and Muller. I am looking at a Lilja, Hart or Benchmark at 22" + or - , non-threaded. Either get Keystone to do the chambering or someone else.
Let me know which one you guys would like me to purchase and test.
Are those the only options? I’d love to see a comparison with either ibi or ks arms personally.

Ibi is massive in Canada, and ks makes a killer barrel and is the recommended choice for those structured barrels. Both have relatively short lead times with 8-12 weeks
 
Looking into buying another barrel for my Rim X, right now I have tested the Lothar Walther, Shilen Rachet, and Muller. I am looking at a Lilja, Hart or Benchmark at 22" + or - , non-threaded. Either get Keystone to do the chambering or someone else.
Let me know which one you guys would like me to purchase and test.
Do you have results posted on the previous 3 tested?